I have a slight knocking/ticking noise on start up and when the bike warms up. It does get a little bit less after warm up. I changed the oil, filter, and clutch basket about a 100 miles ago. Bike runs great and shifts smooth as silk. I did however use 20w-50 instead of 10w-40 oil. Everything was torqued down to spec. No popping when decelerating, have not checked the valves, but i would think that i would have starting, driving or idling problems which i don't. I have heard that gs can do this somethings when everything is fine but i just wanted to be sure as i have worked on it the last month to get everything fixed on it.
Also i saw on another post where someone was wondering about torquing down the clutch pressure plate bolts. he stated that he reached the proper torque before the bolts bottomed out? when i did mine according to the hyanes manual that i have it says to toruqe them down to 4-7 NM i believe, and he put 4-7 "in lbs" and they didn't bottom out before reaching the proper torque. Questions is did your bottom out or not?
Yeh bikes can be a little temperamental with oil weight. It can change the gear changes and clutch. Me personally I never stray from the manufacturers specs. I once ran 20-40w in the GS and it would make noises when warm and gear changes were clunky.
Just another thing to remember is that the GS relies on it's oil to cool the engine so your 20-50w may be a little thick for it.
ya thats what i thought, shaZam!, so i guess i'll change it again. poop
Just consider it a flush out with fresh oil, makes the engine as fresh as a daisy for the proper oil. Like Bacardi who do a final rinse out or their rum bottles with rum before filling.
i didn't know that Bacardi did that. i dont think i'm going to change the oil filter this time tho. its also a bit cold here at the moment so i thought that might be adding to it also.
Quote from: knowles on March 31, 2012, 11:13:14 PM
i didn't know that Bacardi did that. i dont think i'm going to change the oil filter this time tho. its also a bit cold here at the moment so i thought that might be adding to it also.
Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. Manual states that 20w-50 is suitable for 14°F and above. I'm probably going to put 20w-50 in mine for the summer...hot as hell out here.
I remember that putting 20w-50 in my KLR650 made it burn less oil, burn SLIGHTLY more gas (as little as 1-2mpg difference...which is negligible), and shift smoother. True that not all engines and transmissions are the same, but one would think that a higher viscosity would make shifting smoother, since it provides more static lubricity at a given temperature - not to doubt Slippery.
Quote from: Kijona on March 31, 2012, 11:26:41 PM
Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. Manual states that 20w-50 is suitable for 14°F and above. I'm probably going to put 20w-50 in mine for the summer...hot as hell out here.
I remember that putting 20w-50 in my KLR650 made it burn less oil, burn SLIGHTLY more gas (as little as 1-2mpg difference...which is negligible), and shift smoother. True that not all engines and transmissions are the same, but one would think that a higher viscosity would make shifting smoother, since it provides more static lubricity at a given temperature - not to doubt Slippery.
Your KLR didn't rely on the oil to keep it cool though. If my engine was making weird noises with a different weight oil in it I would be dropping it and putting the correct weight in it. Then again noises such as ticking and knocking become noticeable after oil changes because you are taking notice of these things after when they could have been there all the time.
Use 10w-40 or 15w-40 unless you have a high oil consumption problem and really need the 20w-50. I put 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic in my 97 GS for about 45k miles after breaking it in on 10W-40 dino for 5k miles and when oil consumption increased I switched to the cheaper 15W-40 Rotella T for the next 30k miles. I have used the 15W-40 Rotella T in my 02 GS since I got it and now have 92k miles on it. Engine wear due to miles seems to have progressed about the same on both bikes regardless of oil type.
My 97 GS progressed from regular to mid grade to premium gasoline to prevent gas knock in hot weather as the miles and carbon built up same as the 4 Hondas I used 20W-50 in summers did previous to the GSs.
When I switched from the 15W-50 to the 15W-40 in the 97 I went back to regular gas year round without gas knock and have used regular gas all the 92k miles on the 02 also w/o knock.
The GSs run cooler on a xxW-40 oil than on a xxW-50 oil and your doing it no favor using the heavier oil in hot weather unless oil consumption is real bad. Besides lubricating the engine the oil also provides cooling by carrying heat away from the head to the sump. This cooling flow is reduced with the heavier oils.
ok will be going back to the 10w-40, guess i'll just change it quick, not going to do the filter tho i dont think that little bit would matter.
The 20W-50 is approved for higher temps like Kijona mentions above but it will run hotter in the combustion area with the heavier oil and it's reduced cooling. Might not be an issue on F models with the oil coolers. :dunno_black: Both my bikes are/were naked E models w/o cooler.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500O_oil_viscosity.jpg)
ya i know i can use it im just going to replace it and see what it does. it's only about $12 for new oil. so i'll jsut do it to be on the safe side.
Ya can't go wrong with that.
I changed the oil to Mobile 1 full sin. 10w-40 now it sounds a little bit louder as far as the ticking, it does increase with the RPMs, its not loud you have to get by the engine to hear it and you can't hear it while riding. could this be the valves? i have no other problems with it running, idling, popping or anything else. I just don't want it to be something else. ANy ideas?
hard to hear noises through letters on my screen...lol any chance you can post a short clip of it running?
not really,