http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLhJR4DD3vM&context=C4e0b072ADvjVQa1PpcFNKSI9rJ2BL5TPIGnz8J88L8g7B2FKAXm4=
So this was happening with my old battery, so I got a fresh one cause it was pretty old, and the same thing happens with the new battery. Any ideas?
Graham
Check all your wiring around there.
First, remove the seat and hear for EXACTLY where the sound is coming from. Yes - the battery area but you can't tell where with the seat on.
Possibilities:
1. Bad connection on the start relay
2. bad start relay
3. Lose connection from battery to the frame and engine. There are 2 wires from the negative: big one goes to ground on motor. Other goes to frame near the battery.
4. bare wire shorting out between starter relay and starter motor.
Measuring voltage at battery will tell you if there is a short - voltage will go way down. Then a short would probably blow the fuse.
I would bet on bad connections or starter relay going out.
Remove the seat and listen for where EXACTLY the sound is coming from.
That sound is the starter relay. It's gone bad and is unable to "hold" so it just buzzes between open and closed repeatedly.
What year is that bike? May have something to do with the headlight-dimm as well, if it's a newer model.
It has newer hand controls so 2001+ based on that. Indicators do not dim. If headlight goes off - that's 2006+ where it is shut off when starter is pressed.
02, after having it buzz for a while the indicators dimmed. After a bit more time holding the starter, it stopped making any attempt to start (no noise), when i pressed the horn it wouldn't chirp. Walked away for like 10 min, came back and the relay started buzzing again. (Definitely the relay).
Graham
Uh...horn doesn't work? Low battery mate. Try charging the battery.
Brand spanking new battery.
What kind of battery if its a acid one you have to charge for a few hours before it works.
Its a sealed battery, it says that it should be fully charged. Further, can I jump with my car?
Ok so I did the fun trick where you short out the relay with a screw driver to get the engine to turn over. It thought about turning over, there were some sparks, then nothing. Never thought I would have an electrical problem, all i did was mess with the carbs and the shocks...and chain and tires and brake lines...and rear sets.
and air filter and bars.
also, where does the ground wire hook up to the battery.
Quote from: gsatterw on April 05, 2012, 06:02:23 PM
also, where does the ground wire hook up to the battery.
It is the negative terminal on the left. Tight is positive +12.
The terms
negative and
ground are interchangeable in this case.
From the battery there is a black wire to the frame and a bigger one down to the engine.
So the ground wires are already hooked into the leads that attach to the battery?
Is it possible that my new battery (from batterystuff.com) is near dead (horn won't sound)?
Check voltage with your meter.
Then check voltage with red probe on battery + and the black probe on a clean spot of the frame - like a bolt. You should get 12v or more.
Oh, sorry - my bad. The smaller black wire from the battery has a connector that plugs into a connector on the wiring harness. The larger wire goes down to the engine for a bike frame ground. Be sure that's plugged in.
Do you get lights? Indicator lamps? Turn signals?
Is your fuse good? Maybe you burnt the fuse shorting things? Sparks I think means you shorted the wrong terminals. Maybe shorted the +12 to ground and fried the fuse. Note that the fuse is under the rubber cover. The fuse in the open is the spare fuse.
There are lots of electrical questions lately. It was suggested I do a video of a walk-though of the electrical system and safety switches. I will do it! I'll start it Sunday. Saturday we hope to ride the ferry to Vashon Island for the day.
Ok, so after I shorted the relay and left it sitting for 4 hours, I turn it on. I've got full brightness lights, blinkers, brakes, horn. Go the hit the starter, no noise whatsoever, no buzzing from the relay at all. I press the starter for 5 seconds maybe. After i let go, I go hit the horn, no go, lights were a lot dimmer too. Battery and relay now?
I suspect a fried starter relay coil.
Here's the next test.
* Have the meter on your battery to monitor the voltage.
* Disconnect the wire from the starter relay so you don't attempt to energize it. That should be the green/yellow wire.
* Press the starter. You should not see the voltage drop.
Test #2
* Now reconnect the green/yellow wire.
* Disconnect the big black wire that goes to the starter relay.
* Repeat the test. If the starter relay coil is shorted, you'll see the voltage drop fast. The starter relay coil is energized but you are not sending any electricity to the starter motor. This will test just the starter relay coil for a short. If coil shorted, then replace the starter relay unit.
So do you think the battery's cool?
and guess i'll have to go get a meter. thanks!
Well, you could test without a meter and see how bright the headlight is. With the starter relay disconnected, there should be no drain on the battery. The headlight should stay the same.
With the relay connected and the wire to the starter disconnected, IF the relay coil is shorted then you should see the same effect you saw before.
If nothing happens, then reconnect the wire to the starter motor. Repeat. Now if the lights go dim, the starter motor is fried and the starter relay is OK, you just can't hear it clicking.
A volt meter is your one and only tool to really know what is going on with electricity. Everyone should have one as a part of their tool kit. You measure voltages, trace wires, check continuity and everything to do with the electrical system. Knowing the voltage of the battery can tell you how good it is and if your charging system is working. Without a meter, its like working on the mechanics of your bike in the dark.
A meter would let you measure the resistance of the starter relay coil and know if it is good or bad.
Any cheap meter will work. An analog meter is fine. Or a cheap digital one. No need to spend over $20 for the only tool that will tell you what is happening in the electrical system.
Quote from: gsatterw on April 05, 2012, 11:31:36 PM
So do you think the battery's cool?
and guess i'll have to go get a meter. thanks!
The first thing to do with any similar starting problem is test voltage.
Key off fully charged= 13.5v
Key on fully charged= 12.5-13v
Running fully cjharged = 12.8-14v depending on charging state and rpms.
Don't fry your starter by holding the starter button for 10seconds if it doesn't kick over immediately.
Put bike on center stand, remove both plugs, drop into 6th gear, and slowly rotate rear wheel forward. There should be some resistance from the gears, but a smooth wooshing from the cylinders. If your engine has locked, the starter will not turn.
Get a battery tender. Use it for when the bike sits for more than 3-4 days.
Check voltages once a week.
Check tire pressure daily.
Chain daily.
Oil daily.
I'll be surprised if this case isn't just a flat battery.
Quote from: ohgood on April 06, 2012, 04:48:57 AM
Quote from: gsatterw on April 05, 2012, 11:31:36 PM
So do you think the battery's cool?
and guess i'll have to go get a meter. thanks!
The first thing to do with any similar starting problem is test voltage.
Key off fully charged= 13.5v
Key on fully charged= 12.5-13v
Running fully cjharged = 12.8-14v depending on charging state and rpms.
Don't fry your starter by holding the starter button for 10seconds if it doesn't kick over immediately.
Put bike on center stand, remove both plugs, drop into 6th gear, and slowly rotate rear wheel forward. There should be some resistance from the gears, but a smooth wooshing from the cylinders. If your engine has locked, the starter will not turn.
Get a battery tender. Use it for when the bike sits for more than 3-4 days.
Check voltages once a week.
Check tire pressure daily.
Chain daily.
Oil daily.
I'll be surprised if this case isn't just a flat battery.
When you say fry the starter, what part are you referring to specifically?
could just pop the main fuse, the windings, the ground cable, none of them are fun to replace if the current finds a weak point that needs lighting up.
Ok, so i finally got her running. battery was the culprit, apparently this model battery doesnt come charged.
So now she idles beautifully, but when i try to get the rpm's above 4.5-5 it bogs and sometimes dies. too rich???