Hi all, I'm in the process of stripping my GS500 but having serious trouble with the bolt iv'e circled in the picture below.
Has anyone got any tips for removing it? Also would it help to try and move the spindles first? (If they are actually spindles, I think they are?)
(http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww189/Byard/bastardbolt.jpg)
Thanks
You need two of the same size spanners, I think they are 15mm. You need to hold one side and reach over the bike to get the other to undo it otherwise it will just spin. It will be easier if you have a 15mm socket on a ratchet and another 15mm socket on a breaker bar as the breaker bars usually are longer than normal ratchet spanners. Use the ratchet to undo the nut and the breaker bar to hold the bolt so it won't spin. If you are doing this to install frame sliders it would also be smart to put a jack under the oil pan to hold the engine in place so the holes line up again.
Hi, thanks for the reply.
I can't even get the bolt to turn, its like its siezed inside the spindles
The rod goes straight on through to the other side.
Best thing to do would be DRENCH it with some WD40, let it soak in awhile and repeat that a few times.
and maybe give it a few taps with a Soft mallet as well.
I know you Dont wanna end up snapping it or have to cut it.
Doesnt look like it will be too much of a problem after some soaks.
(edit)
and if you havnt touched the other mounts yet, I would soak those as well.
Let me know how you get on. I'm planning to have at that same bolt to install frame sliders.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31QU-g51yAL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
kidding, just kidding,..Can't say it any better than the way Twisted put it all down for you
Tomb said it right too, though I like JB80 myself.
Quote from: Byard on April 16, 2012, 02:28:07 AM
Hi all, I'm in the process of stripping my GS500 but having serious trouble with the bolt iv'e circled in the picture below.
Has anyone got any tips for removing it? Also would it help to try and move the spindles first? (If they are actually spindles, I think they are?)
(http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww189/Byard/bastardbolt.jpg)
Thanks
Did you try the nut on the other side of the engine? That's one long bolt - nut is on the left side of your engine.
You are not going to turn the head of the bolt. You ktake the nut off the other side then push the bolt out.
Same for all 4 engine bolts.
Same advice as above posts, but I add that it helped me to put slight upward pressure under the engine from a floor jack. This relieved the weight of the engine that's normally hanging on that long bolt.
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The steel bolt can rust and fuse onto the steel spacers and if you are really unlucky the bolt can corrode into the alloy engine mount. If the state of the plug is anything to go by this is almost certainly the case. Try all the above suggestions, maybe even a bit of heat from a gas torch on the spacers if you have got the time and patience but..........you will probably end up cutting it out.
You should almost always try to loosen from the nut end of the bolt. Good luck.
I vote PB Blaster over WD40. Not that I'm knocking WD40, I use that stuff so much I'm going to start buying the gallon cans of it.
If anything is going to get it though, a combination of a PB soak, breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet, and tapping the end of the bar/ratchet with a hammer will. Tap it both ways, tighten and loosen, to break the corrosion loose.
I've used this method on several 100K mi, never been off before, corroded up suspension bolts on my car without fail.
I believe the PO thinks it is a bolt that screws into the engine. I don't believe the is aware it is a long bolt with a nut on the opposite side. I haven't seen them corrode because of all the engine oil that dribbles there. And it gets hot so water doesn't stay there unless you park it in the rain for extended periods without riding it.
Once the nut is off, a whack with a mallet will drive the bolt out the right side.
Once one bolt is out, as mentioned, support the weight as you take out the other 3 bolts.
Plenty of suggestions. Type for byard to chime back in.
tapping the crown end of the bolt, not the threaded end, will usually jar it loose of rust and stickiness when its a problem.
Remember, it is a bolt, all the way through the frame, loosen the end with the nut always, not the crown end.
the rec. torque spec is as much as 52 lb-ft, expect it to break loose at 130% of that in the loosening direction. Thats been a good average for me, excepting the outlier that caused me to break the end off a 1/2" ratchet.
Quote from: adidasguy on April 16, 2012, 12:13:57 PM
I haven't seen them corrode
They can......and do :D
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=54750.msg619026#msg619026
Be gentle, sometimes they really stick!
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/conoral11/DSCF0490.jpg)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/conoral11/DSCF0489.jpg)
Not mine, pics posted here some years ago. I tried to remove my front engine bolts a couple years back to remove some rusty case guards and the top front was really stuck, corroded in place. After some soaking with Liquid Wrench and a couple other things I forget what they were I still had to drive it all the way out with another bolt and a BFH.
How'd you go with getting the sucker out?
Hi all, thanks for the replies!
Iv'e purchsed some 'Plusgas' which is a penetrating oil which gets high marks here in the UK. I'll soak it in that tonight and tap from both ends gently using a copper hammer, aswell as maybe some heat and a breaker bar.
I'll let you know how I get on! :)
Update.
Holy shaZam!, i have used tons of penetrating oil, lots of heat and a shitload of hitting it with a lump hammer(and I mean hard!), it won't budge!
I forgot to add when I first posted this topic the nut on the end of the bolt I managed to get off easily, so I'm just trying to get the bolt out.
The bolt is now un-usable when/if I do get it out, I have used an angle grinder on the other end so now its just a spindle but It still won't f%$king budge!
>:(
Have you tried putting a jack under the sump to take a bit of the weight of the engine off the bolt?
Quote from: Twisted on April 18, 2012, 05:06:09 AM
Have you tried putting a jack under the sump to take a bit of the weight of the engine off the bolt?
Yeah I'll give it a try tonight
Best way to loosen a seized bolt is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Works better than PB blaster, liquid wrench, or kroil.
It aint gonna shift :sad:
Get some stillsons on the spacers, work them up and down and concentrate on trying to get the whole bolt to spin inside the alloy engine mount, when (or if) it does....... cut the bolt off flush either side of engine case and it should drift out. When you do refit the (new) bolt and spacers lather them with coppaslip before it goes home.
Learn something new every day. Had to Google "stillson".
Quote from: sledge on April 19, 2012, 08:18:25 AM
It aint gonna shift :sad:
Get some stillsons on the spacers, work them up and down and concentrate on trying to get the whole bolt to spin inside the alloy engine mount, when (or if) it does....... cut the bolt off flush either side of engine case and it should drift out. When you do refit the (new) bolt and spacers lather them with coppaslip before it goes home.
Should the spacer move freely and spin around when its free?
Yes.