Just wanted to make sure the way my front brake behaves is normal for the GS....
When I squeeze it, I get stopping power immediately, although nothing too extreme. However there is a point (inch/inch an a half in?) where it all comes up on at once, almost like a switch has been flipped. Nose dives hard, etc. I'm glad the bike has this power, I'm just wondering if it comes on smoothly for you guys or in a manner similar to this. It's quite jerky.
Mine stops smoothly; this does not sound normal to me. You might inspect your front caliper while actuating the brake and listen closely. See if it is binding or catching. My understanding is that air or water in your brake line will just make the brakes feel soft, so I suspect you may need to rebuild the caliper. Also make sure your pads are seated correctly and have enough material on them.
sounds like you have a bubble. Try to bleed your brake lines or refresh the fluid entirely, its cheapest. then see what happens.
The lever feels "notchy" right?
I'm having/had that problem on my SV650. 2 fluid flushes later and it's STILL there. Not as bad, but still there. I used the suction method the second time around and it STILL would not completely go away. It's beginning to piss me off, frankly.
Yours doesn't sound as bad as mine, though. And you have the advantage of only having one caliper, so you should be able to get rid of it pretty easily. A flush takes a few minutes and isn't very complicated. Just make sure you don't let go of the lever while you have the bleed valve open. OH and smear a little grease around the fitting so it won't suck air through the threads. :)
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.
That's right...lube that lever... :flipoff: :icon_twisted:
Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 03:44:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.
That's right...lube that lever... :flipoff: :icon_twisted:
I've had that sticky lever thing on the GSs a few times over the years. Just shoot a bunch of WD-40 into the joints above and below the lever in the pivot area and it's good to go for another year or two.
Quote from: gsJack on April 17, 2012, 04:14:48 PM
Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 03:44:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.
That's right...lube that lever... :flipoff: :icon_twisted:
I've had that sticky lever thing on the GSs a few times over the years. Just shoot a bunch of WD-40 into the joints above and below the lever in the pivot area and it's good to go for another year or two.
Wow...I assumed the sticky lever was caused by a fluid issue. I just sprayed WD-40 all around the join and the contact area and that fixed it completely! It got better when I replaced the fluid before so naturally I assumed it was still a fluid problem.
Thanks Jack! :cheers: :thumb:
Addendum: The Karma Corn goes to Adidasguy because he suggested it first! Hahaha!
Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 04:52:14 PM
Quote from: gsJack on April 17, 2012, 04:14:48 PM
Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 03:44:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.
That's right...lube that lever... :flipoff: :icon_twisted:
I've had that sticky lever thing on the GSs a few times over the years. Just shoot a bunch of WD-40 into the joints above and below the lever in the pivot area and it's good to go for another year or two.
Wow...I assumed the sticky lever was caused by a fluid issue. I just sprayed WD-40 all around the join and the contact area and that fixed it completely! It got better when I replaced the fluid before so naturally I assumed it was still a fluid problem.
Thanks Jack! :cheers: :thumb:
Addendum: The Karma Corn goes to Adidasguy because he suggested it first! Hahaha!
Thought it might take a couple more votes to convince you to try it. :icon_lol:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorn_smiley.gif)(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcornsmileys.gif)(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/smiley_popcorn.gif)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/banana-popcorn.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/unamusedpopcorn.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorn2.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorm1.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/sodapop.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorn.gif)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/tumblr_lxjm4n4umw1rn1xxfo1_400.gif)
Thank you!
hahahaha.
A problem even simpler than I thought to suggest.
Karl Childers wins again.
"It ain't got no gas in it."
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 05:13:25 PM
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorn_smiley.gif)(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcornsmileys.gif)(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/smiley_popcorn.gif)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/banana-popcorn.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/unamusedpopcorn.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorn2.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorm1.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/sodapop.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/popcorn.gif)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/tumblr_lxjm4n4umw1rn1xxfo1_400.gif)
Thank you!
LOL!
I have to lube the pivot and end of the MC plunger about every 10k miles.
Quote from: Funderb on April 17, 2012, 05:19:26 PM
hahahaha.
A problem even simpler than I thought to suggest.
Karl Childers wins again.
"It ain't got no gas in it."
HAHA!!! OH MAN...SO MANY PEOPLE DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT MOVIE!!!
I'm giving you a piece of Karma Corn for that one!
Cool I'm going to try the lube this evening...... :icon_rolleyes:
Here's the thing though- it was back to pretty much normal this morning- does that sound like a bubble? I'm guessing I should change my fluid sometime soon anyway. Glad this is a simple fix, it seems.
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 18, 2012, 06:30:12 AM
Cool I'm going to try the lube this evening...... :icon_rolleyes:
Here's the thing though- it was back to pretty much normal this morning- does that sound like a bubble? I'm guessing I should change my fluid sometime soon anyway. Glad this is a simple fix, it seems.
I'd bleed the system.
The easy way to bleed is buy Kirby's Speed Bleeders.
They have a 1 way valve so fluid goes out and air won't go back in. Filled Phenix's rear brakes with fluid last night. Works so easy I can't believe it. No need for a brake bleeding pump unless you want to completely suck all fluid out.
I was looking at this method, found in the wiki: http://www.bbburma.net/HowTo/BrakeFluid_Replace/
I'm guessing just add the speed bleeders to the equation & this is the way to go? (First bike I've ever worked on)
Yep. It really is pretty simple.
Speed bleeders help by not letting stuff get sucked back in through the bleeder hose. They're a one way valve rather than a straight opening.
If you change the bleeder thingy for a speed bleeder, have a rag handy. Fluid will spill out when you have the bleeder thingy off so do that swap out as fast as you can.
On the GS it's really easy. There's only one caliper. Just have yourself a seat and get to squeezing. :P Kind of like milking a cow...in a way.
Remember to grease the fitting around the threads so it doesn't suck air in. Just use something along the lines of molly or other thick grease. I used some synthetic brake grease. Worked great!
Also...as far as brake fluid goes...the stuff I use that works AMAZINGLY well for the price is http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_DOT-3-and-4-Synthetic-Brake-Fluid-%2832-oz-%29-Valvoline_7080002-P_N3222_T Less than 7 bucks and you get a whole quart of the stuff! One tip, and this is true of any brake fluid, let the can sit for a few hours before you use it. That way all the air can get out of it - you know, like what happens when you shake a soda bottle, only to a lesser and slower degree. Don't want air in the fluid!
QuoteHAHA!!! OH MAN...SO MANY PEOPLE DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT MOVIE!!!
hahahaha, glad i could bring some levity. it is a truly great film!
Ordered the speed bleeders this morning & lubed the lever itself last night. So far so good.
I'm guessing I can get the hose to drain the fluid @ Advance Auto Parts or wherever I pick up my new fluid?
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 19, 2012, 07:32:44 AM
Ordered the speed bleeders this morning & lubed the lever itself last night. So far so good.
I'm guessing I can get the hose to drain the fluid @ Advance Auto Parts or wherever I pick up my new fluid?
The best stuff I've found is soft vinyl aquarium tubing. 1/4" I.D. IIRC. It is a pain to fit on without heating but that's GOOD, that means it won't leak air.
Quote from: Kijona on April 19, 2012, 09:09:35 PM
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 19, 2012, 07:32:44 AM
Ordered the speed bleeders this morning & lubed the lever itself last night. So far so good.
I'm guessing I can get the hose to drain the fluid @ Advance Auto Parts or wherever I pick up my new fluid?
The best stuff I've found is soft vinyl aquarium tubing. 1/4" I.D. IIRC. It is a pain to fit on without heating but that's GOOD, that means it won't leak air.
OK good tip- I'm thinking the bleeders that AdidasGuy recommended will help me skirt the air issue, but tight=no spill so that's good too.
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 20, 2012, 06:01:12 AM
Quote from: Kijona on April 19, 2012, 09:09:35 PM
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 19, 2012, 07:32:44 AM
Ordered the speed bleeders this morning & lubed the lever itself last night. So far so good.
I'm guessing I can get the hose to drain the fluid @ Advance Auto Parts or wherever I pick up my new fluid?
The best stuff I've found is soft vinyl aquarium tubing. 1/4" I.D. IIRC. It is a pain to fit on without heating but that's GOOD, that means it won't leak air.
OK good tip- I'm thinking the bleeders that AdidasGuy recommended will help me skirt the air issue, but tight=no spill so that's good too.
Perhaps. However, please keep in mind you'll still need to apply grease around the fitting's threads (on the caliper) to avoid air being sucked in that way.
Not trying to argue, but it seems they cover that? http://kirbysbrakebleeders.ecrater.com/about.php
Never had heard of speed bleeders until adidas mentioned them. Did some research and feel they would be a great addition to my 1 man shop!
Which size bleeder did you all order?
Thread pitch is M7x1, so the SB7100 will fit, but it will look funny due to the extra length. The SB7100S is a shorter version that should look at home on the GS. I'm adding them to my list of things to get for my bike when I replace the lines.
Wow, I thought you were talking about something completely different.
I had some one-way bleeder things that just attached to the end of a tube and used the stock nipples to bleed. You just squeezed and squeezed and it would keep coming out but not go back in. This is what I thought you were talking about. I didn't know they were actually replacement nipples and, in all honesty, it seems a little excessive when something similar can be used without having to modify the bike in any way.
I don't mean to sound paranoid or anything but I'd be very wary of that sort of thing - after all, the brakes on a motorcycle are all that is keeping us from being a big red splatter on the side of a building/pole/road/whatever. It would really suck if the front bleeder came loose or something and all you had left was the rear brake.
Quote from: Kijona on April 22, 2012, 06:51:14 PM
I don't mean to sound paranoid or anything but I'd be very wary of that sort of thing - after all, the brakes on a motorcycle are all that is keeping us from being a big red splatter on the side of a building/pole/road/whatever. It would really suck if the front bleeder came loose or something and all you had left was the rear brake.
:o
Great, now you've got me nervous...I'm definitely gonna inspect the fit very carefully when I use them. If it's looking anything less than rock solid, maybe I'll take them off post-bleeding. Either way, they're cheap enough that I won't feel too bad about it.
Adidas, how long have you been riding around with yours?
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 22, 2012, 07:17:19 PM
Quote from: Kijona on April 22, 2012, 06:51:14 PM
I don't mean to sound paranoid or anything but I'd be very wary of that sort of thing - after all, the brakes on a motorcycle are all that is keeping us from being a big red splatter on the side of a building/pole/road/whatever. It would really suck if the front bleeder came loose or something and all you had left was the rear brake.
:o
Great, now you've got me nervous...I'm definitely gonna inspect the fit very carefully when I use them. If it's looking anything less than rock solid, maybe I'll take them off post-bleeding. Either way, they're cheap enough that I won't feel too bad about it.
Adidas, how long have you been riding around with yours?
Removing and putting them back on will introduce the possibility of air in the system. Removing the stock bleeder nipple will do the same thing. It just seems like a lot of trouble for something that presents a somewhat real safety hazard. Especially when you can get something that requires no modification to the bike. Heh...sorry, don't mean to make you paranoid...it's just my way of thinking that you don't f%$k around when it comes to the brakes (especially the front ones) on a motorcycle.
For me its worth having the ease of bleeding my brakes whenever i need without asking for someone to help man the bleeder/push the peddle.
I wouldn't foresee any problems from them. They appear to be quality products. The youtube installation video says to not put these on with empty lines. Makes it difficult to fill the fluids.. If new lines are put on fill and do a quick bleed with stock bleeder, then replace bleeder with the 1 way unit.
As long as things are torqued and the proper thread lock is used there should be no more risk with these over stock bleeders. They turn to shut valve just as the stock unit does.
Check out this video for a little more idea of how they work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVjPVhoPHow
Right, I pretty much understood what they were all about but it's cool to see them actually work.
I don't understand why they say to use threadlock when you'll be loosening and tightening it. Yes it will keep the fluid from leaking out but...there are better things for that.
Still, it seems like an inconvenience compared to the other products that attach to the stock nipple via a piece of hose. Those accomplish the exact same thing but require no modification at all (and are probably cheaper too).
The threadlock is applied to the threads securing the bleeder -> bike. The valve adjuster and its threads work just as the stock bleeder does, just has a 1 way check valve added.
As for not seeing the need, to each his own :cheers:
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on April 22, 2012, 08:26:36 PM
The threadlock is applied to the threads securing the bleeder -> bike. The valve adjuster and its threads work just as the stock bleeder does, just has a 1 way check valve added.
As for not seeing the need, to each his own :cheers:
Oh, it has
separate threads? I couldn't see in the video or maybe I'm just blind. :P
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on April 22, 2012, 07:49:53 PM
I wouldn't foresee any problems from them. They appear to be quality products. The youtube installation video says to not put these on with empty lines. Makes it difficult to fill the fluids.. If new lines are put on fill and do a quick bleed with stock bleeder, then replace bleeder with the 1 way unit.
I just did Phenix's rear brake on Wednesday night. It was dry. Yes - they are tough with no fluid as air compresses too much to open the 1-way valve.
I used a tube and sucked while pumping the brake pedal until fluid started to come out the tube. Then put tube down into a catch cup and continued like normal. Too maybe an extra minute or two to get fluid started. Entire fill and bleeding took maybe 5 minutes with no help required.
Quote from: Kijona on April 22, 2012, 08:39:19 PM
Oh, it has separate threads? I couldn't see in the video or maybe I'm just blind. :P
I guess I was assuming they had separate thread, as I don't see how the design would work without them. But after looking at the bleeder it appears I'm incorrect.
@ Adidas - Do the bleeders have separate threads? 1 for mounting bleeder, and the other that adjusts the valve position?
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on April 23, 2012, 06:39:41 AM
Quote from: Kijona on April 22, 2012, 08:39:19 PM
Oh, it has separate threads? I couldn't see in the video or maybe I'm just blind. :P
I guess I was assuming they had separate thread, as I don't see how the design would work without them. But after looking at the bleeder it appears I'm incorrect.
@ Adidas - Do the bleeders have separate threads? 1 for mounting bleeder, and the other that adjusts the valve position?
That's what I was thinking too...it doesn't make any sense to put threadlock on the threads just to have to redo it every time. Threadlock kind of dries up after a while and becomes useless. Also, I'm not sure how well threadlock mixes with brake fluid and if it hardens in the fluid...I'm not sure I want threadlock kicking around in my brake system.
Just opened the package. One thread.
Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 26, 2012, 06:01:22 PM
Just opened the package. One thread.
I just don't see the advantage of that design. The only thing you gain is the ability to keep squeezing the lever but there are options that don't involve threadlocker and removing the stock nipples.
To each their own I guess.
FYI - used the bleeders succesfully. Real easy. Got so excited watching it pump out the back that I almost bled the resevoir dry though, haha. Whoever wrote the tutorial on bleeding brakes- Thank you very much.