Uploading 2 carb sync videos. When I get some free time I'll make a video for '01-02 models but owners of those bastard models can use the '04-up video in the meantime.
-Jessie
1989-2000 Carb Sync: http://youtu.be/dYImsgp7g-Q
2004-up Carb Sync: http://youtu.be/NYt33GRHzww
good job. :thumb:
Awesome video :D thanks !
I will say just one thing. It's unnecessary to remove the grab bar. It can be kind of tricky sure but if you're careful you can easily remove the tail plastics without having to remove the handle.
Otherwise, great video man! Another great one from the Jess-man :)
You don't need to rev the engine at all, setting the balance at an idle (or just above) is all you need to do. Syncing the carbs helps them work as a team as soon as you touch the throttle, the farther away from an idle you get, the less carb balance matters, Other than that, great video :bowdown:
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on April 24, 2012, 08:15:07 PM
You don't need to rev the engine at all, setting the balance at an idle (or just above) is all you need to do. Syncing the carbs helps them work as a team as soon as you touch the throttle, the farther away from an idle you get, the less carb balance matters, Other than that, great video :bowdown:
I thought that the sync screw adjusted the bias throughout the entire range? It may not seem off-sync at idle but be severely out of sync at higher throttle...is this correct?
Quote from: Kijona on April 24, 2012, 08:51:02 PMI thought that the sync screw adjusted the bias throughout the entire range? It may not seem off-sync at idle but be severely out of sync at higher throttle...is this correct?
Syncing/carb balance is an adjustment between the carb's butterfly's not the slide's. The farther you get from an idle, the less carb sync come into play. When it's off you will have a stumble/hesitation right off an idle. You set it at an idle, I have never heard of a sync process that is done at an elevated Rpm, my manometer is 35 years old and I'm the original owner, ether I have been doing it wrong all this time, or the throttle whacking thing is something new like
New Math? :dunno_black:
http://www.carbtune.co.uk/inst.html (http://www.carbtune.co.uk/inst.html)
"Read your workshop manual. The engine should be warm and running at just enough above idle speed so it doesn't falter and stop during adjustments. Don't try to balance at high engine speeds." http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/motorcycle_carb_sync/index.html (http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/motorcycle_carb_sync/index.html)
"With the temporary fuel supply attached, start the engine and let it warm up. Resist the temptation to blip the throttle because the spike in manifold vacuum can draw the mercury out of the balancer"
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/carbsync01.jpg)
Well, I added a link for the video to the wiki anyways :-}
This also goes to show me, exactly how much I do NOT want to try doing this myself :-}
I think it looks mostly easy to do it yourself, i will be doing it at idle tho, thanks for the vid BaltimoreGS and to Suzuki Stevo for the extra knowledge. :thumb: :bowdown:
That is the method I was taught years ago by a motorcycle guru, it checks the sync slightly off idle which is where you really want your engine to be working well. I've seen varying opinions of syncing at idle, some say to raise the idle speed to 1,800 RPM but Dynojet says to do it at 500 RPM. :dunno_black:
-Jessie
Another awesome vid!! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
Points to Suzuki Stevo :thumb: Looked it up in the Suzuki repair manual and the GS500 is done with the engine at a constant 1,750 RPM's. Looked back at the raw footage and the method I used actually does get them bouncing even at idle so the end result should be the same. I don't think Lidiya and Tu's bikes are coming apart again anytime soon so this video stands as is for now ;)
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on April 25, 2012, 03:50:09 AM
That is the method I was taught years ago by a motorcycle guru, it checks the sync slightly off idle which is where you really want your engine to be working well. I've seen varying opinions of syncing at idle, some say to raise the idle speed to 1,800 RPM but Dynojet says to do it at 500 RPM. :dunno_black:
-Jessie
Yeah..I figured somebody you looked up to or respected showed you that :cheers:
Truth is, your hand controls the butterfly's, the velocity of the engine controls the slides, hence the term CV or Constant Velocity. You can peg the right grip but that doesn't mean you opened it up, that doesn't happen until the engine has enough velocity/Rpm/head of steam to pull the slide open via vacuum and that rubber diaphragm on top of the carbs, all for emissions, the slide only moves when the is enough velocity to burn the mixture cleanly. This makes adjusting the butterfly's for any Rpm other than an idle or
slightly elevated idle a non value added process, personally on the GS I turn the idle up to around 1500 Rpm? that is the point just above an idle where you want both carbs working as a team if you where taking off from a dead stop. I really am glad you made the video, I don't have that kind of patience :thumb:
I wish I knew half as much as the guy that taught me that method! Everything I know about cars/motorcycles I have learned, he was one of those guys that just had a great instinct. I'm lucky to work with a car guy like that. I can call him on the phone and 9 times out of 10 his shotgun diagnosis is dead on. As far as the revving method, you can only rev it to about 2,000 rpm's before the vacuum draw is too high for the manometer to read so it isn't too far off the 1,750 RPM's Suzuki specifies so I think all would be well either method. Now that I know it isn't the method in the Suzuki manual I will probably redo the videos at some point. Since the GS5 gets so many newbs I don't like putting out conflicting info ;)
To add on to what were saying, one of the popular Nighthawk/Rebel 250 mods is to swap out the CV carbs for larger non-CV carbs. It takes a few trips around the block to learn how not to bog them :laugh: Those bikes are so over built that I have to imagine that at one time Honda planned to punch the engines out bigger. And back to the GS, it should also be noted that the choke circuit in the GS carbs doesn't cut air to richen the mixture, it adds vacuum to lift the main jet needle out of its seat a bit.
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on April 25, 2012, 04:17:34 PM
I wish I knew half as much as the guy that taught me that method! Everything I know about cars/motorcycles I have learned, he was one of those guys that just had a great instinct. I'm lucky to work with a car guy like that. I can call him on the phone and 9 times out of 10 his shotgun diagnosis is dead on. As far as the revving method, you can only rev it to about 2,000 rpm's before the vacuum draw is too high for the manometer to read so it isn't too far off the 1,750 RPM's Suzuki specifies so I think all would be well either method. Now that I know it isn't the method in the Suzuki manual I will probably redo the videos at some point. Since the GS5 gets so many newbs I don't like putting out conflicting info ;)
To add on to what were saying, one of the popular Nighthawk/Rebel 250 mods is to swap out the CV carbs for larger non-CV carbs. It takes a few trips around the block to learn how not to bog them :laugh: Those bikes are so over built that I have to imagine that at one time Honda planned to punch the engines out bigger. And back to the GS, it should also be noted that the choke circuit in the GS carbs doesn't cut air to richen the mixture, it adds vacuum to lift the main jet needle out of its seat a bit.
-Jessie
good to know about the choke circuit.... :cheers:
Great video! I'm looking at buying a GS that's been sitting, so there's a good chance I'll be playing this while I'm working on it in a week or so. Can you recommend a manometer?
If price isn't a concern, the Carbtune Pro is the best manometer on the market in my opinion: http://www.carbtune.com/
At the opposite end of the price scale is the home made tool: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=3521.0
An in between option would be to make one out of a couple of vacuum gauges: http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html
A manometer is one of those tools you don't use very often but if you buy a good one and take care of it, it will last you a lifetime :thumb:
-Jessie
Motion pro also makes a manometer. Been thinking of picking one up sometime in the future
It looks good! I learned a lot, and Daisy is a good bike-model :)
Also, props to Jessie for making a completely full tank look fearther-light :icon_lol:
Thanks Baltimore! I have been waiting for you to make this video. I know what I am doing this weekend. :thumb: