Edited title for proper description.
As I read the carb sync wouldnt cause this (could be wrong tho)
Not taking ANY chances on this new GREAT running motor!
So any and All suggestions are welcome!
Right plug is obviously VERY lean.
Left looks fine.
All the valves are within spec.
Although the left exhaust valve is at .07mm and the right is a Little above spec as I read it helps more then hurts. (its around .11 or .011mm whichever it is, I always mix up those double digits haha)
both 145 mains with slip on and K&N open air filter.
float lvls are fine
and one washer under each needle
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0147.jpg)
(edit)
prior to this I was thinking of just putting the original air box back in and taking the mains back down to 130 since I only have 145 mains with the current setup vs the 150 recommended.
(edit)
doing some reading.
going to make 100% sure the right header is sealed. (checked, it is)
Well i HOPE I found the problem.
you cant Fully tell by the different angles the plugs are being held.
but after going out again and seeing if I had an exhaust leak. (didnt)
Inspected the plugs closer and the right ones gap was ALOT bigger then the left one.
corrected it and we'll see how it goes tomorrow when I take it for a run.
def up for any other possibilities.
Try the hillbilly carb sync method as described by adidasguy :thumb:
With the bike warmed up and idling, pull the left plug wire and make a mental note how the idle changed, then do the same for the right plug wire.....adjust carb sync screw until they both sound the same.
Tnx
but I know a local rider who has the proper carb sync tool.
Just trying to figure out all possibilities first.
I still plan to have them properly synced, just wanna cover all possible bases prior.
and just going to toss in the extra brand new plugs I have after making sure they are both gapped Exactly the same.
Unlike the ones that were brand new the seller put in it.
which the right plugs gap was WAYYYY larger then the left plugs gap.
which if you can notice it ALOT by a mere glance....... big no no!
hopefully thats all it is.
but as I said when I edited the initial post....
NOT playing around with this motor.
Sucker has been Flawless and I wanna keep it that way as long as possible.
so ANY problem, no matter how large or small.
I wanna get all possibilities on the table and get it taken care of ASAP!
This one Especially since I "AM" riding to Pittsburgh in 3 weeks today.
well, as long as crap doesnt hit the fan at work and I get my days off pulled.
Well!!
Just went for a quick ride down my dads and back with brand new plugs that are just fine.
Got back, didnt let the bike idle when I came to a stop at home, revved it up and cut it.
checked the plugs... the same ><
Right is VERY lean and left looks spot on......
F^^^ it!!!
pretty ticked right now.
just going to take off the stupid K&N open air filter and put the jets back to 130 mains.
you sure you clamped the boots down nice and tight? is this a new or old set of carbs?
Things that would lean you out:
Clogged idle jet
clogged idle mixture port
vacuum leak
my real opinion:
Honestly, other than the carbon deposits not on the right plug, it looks OK, i mean, the insulator has a nice browning to it.
My plugs only brown on one side, which is kinda funky, but i'm used to it.
Im not fluent in knowing Exactly every little thing to look for on plugs.
but as I said, not taking even the slightest chance with this motor, so that much difference in color worried me.
and yea it might be a leak....
just got done putting 130 mains back in and the stock box >< UGH I HATE THAT THING!!!
Noticed the top cover on the right side of the carbs, the one part the screw goes down has a slight crack there.
So it might not have been sealed 100%.
got it all good "for now"
but I will be getting a new cap for it soon.
for now, off to ride and see how she acts.
I'm just glad you have a bike that moves under its own power finally!
same here.
and no more "worry right now" issues.
just got back from a VERY long and Very aggressive ride with 3 other local riders.
checked the one plug that was Very lean and its got some color now. hahahaha
just some pics of the bikes and ppl I rode with.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0153.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0152.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0151.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0150.jpg)
now to get WARM!!!
going 50 to 70 mph on average through country twisty FREEZING out roads was only partially fun!
but now im a human popsicle!
Do you still have the old carb boots? the ones that go from the engine to the carbs?
your left spark plug is runing rich and i mean the left plug.the right plug looks better even with a bigger gap it takes over a 100 miles before the plugs will colour up enough to read .your left plug carbon looks wet and is probably a float level problem to carbon up that quick .my bike has a 150 maln with a 3 degree ignition advance and looks like your right plug till i had done about 300 miles,.currently done about 4000 miles like this and no sign of any problems and it goes like stink .
Modern fuels give lighter spark plug readings compaired to older leaded fuels
Quote from: twinrat on April 28, 2012, 01:43:31 AM
your left spark plug is runing rich and i mean the left plug.the right plug looks better even with a bigger gap it takes over a 100 miles before the plugs will colour up enough to read .your left plug carbon looks wet and is probably a float level problem to carbon up that quick .my bike has a 150 maln with a 3 degree ignition advance and looks like your right plug till i had done about 300 miles,.currently done about 4000 miles like this and no sign of any problems and it goes like stink .
Modern fuels give lighter spark plug readings compaired to older leaded fuels
good to know.
its all good tho.
I'll put the K&N filter back in after I get 150 mains and a new top cover for the right carb.
as for the left, float level is fine and everything has been cleaned and appears in proper working order.
after the run yesterday, I only checked the right plug. (was just Too cold and wanted to get inside)
which appeared fine now.
as the ride was Quite long.
had about 80% of a full tank and otw home, had to switch to reserve and fill it up again.
Bike ran and sounded better with 130 mains and the stock box back in tho.
I'll check it as it goes
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0156.jpg)(http://1/.%20above%20image%20shows%20the%20heat%20range%20of%20the%20plug%20.this%20is%20determined%20by%20the%20first%203%20threads%20,if%20you%20have%20any%20more%20than%203%20threads%20showing%20heat%20you%20need%20to%20go%20to%20a%20colder%20plug %202/.%20preignition%20and%20detonation%20is%20determined%20by%20the%20porcelan%20and%20top%20of%20center%20electrode%20,if%20your%20porcelan%20has%20a%20glazed%20look %20you%20have%20a%20problem%20in%20detonation%20or%20preignition%20same%20goes%20for%20top%20of%20center%20electrode%20,and%20here%20you%20look%20for%20a%20slightly%20jagged%20or%20shiney%20rounded%20edge%20,you%20must%20use%20a%20magnifing%20glass%20to%20view%20these%20.%203/.%20fuel%20mixture%20on%20this%20plug%20is%20perfect%20.just%20a%20slight%20dry%20carbon %20look%20all%20the%20way%20round %204/%20.%20ignition%20timing%20is%20spot%20on %20this%20plug,%20the%20purple%20mark%20on%20the%20elbow %20is%20what%20you%20want%20to%20see%20,if%20this%20mark%20is%20closer%20to%20the%20tip%20you%20are%20to%20retarded%20and%20if%20it%20is%20down%20by%20the%20base%20of%20the%20plug%20you%20are%20to%20advanced// %20this%20plug %20has%20done%2050%20miles%20which%20is%20a%20good%20time%20to%20determine%20your%20state%20of%20tune %20%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0164-1.jpg)
i have written an explanation on how to read plugs but cant get it out of the alteration area see if you can read it there there is also a another photo as well .if it dosnt show up by tomorrow night i will explain again
1// heat range is determined by threads any more than 3 threads showing heat go to colder plug 2//preignition and detonation is seen on edge of center electrode if its shiney around the edge and slightly melted its a sign ,likwise if your porcelan is glazed .3// fuel mixture is judged on the rim it should be a slightly dry carbon ring right round 4// ignition timing is dertermined by the side electrode you want a heat mark on the its bend ,if it is near the tip it is retarded if near the base it is advanced.
best to view your spak plug with a 10x magnifing glass ..This spark plug has done 50 miles and reads perfectily and the colours are correct(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0164-1.jpg)