Is there a trick to keep the rotor from rotating when you are trying to remove the bolt on the rotor. Also, does anybody have any tips on removing the rotor itself. I got the manual and it tells me to make a specialty tool, but I wanted to see if anybody else had another method. I am replacing it with a newer one because my magnets have cracked so I don't care if the old one gets destroyed.
You can put one of those rubber strap tools around the outside of the rotor, and/or put the bike in gear and block the rear wheel or have someone stand on the rear brake. Top gear (6th) will be best.
The slide hammer works so well. I have beat one off without the slide hammer, but it will be hard with the crank in the engine, and I'm not sure what you might do to the crank bearings.
I seem to remember Bob Broussard mentioning he has tried "alternative" means to get the rotor off.
With the slide hammer, don't I have to weld on a special attachment? That is way beyond me or any of my friends ability. Is my best bet to just make the tool suggested in the manual?
If you can use an impact wrench on the bolt, it will come out easier.
The bolt is torqued and glued in with red locktight.
It comes out counterclockwise like a regular bolt.
You can put the bike in gear and put a 2x4 in the rear wheel.
Then use a breaker bar on the bolt.
I use a 3 jaw puller the remove mine. I bought a pack of 3 differents sizes at Harbor Freight tools (real cheap). Use the big one (the hooks on the puller will fit behind the flywheel better)
Screw the bolt most of the way in (leave some space for the flywheel to pop loose). Then put the puller on the flywheel. Tighten it down and put some tension on the puller. Then take a hammer and wack the center bolt on the puller. The flywheel will pop loose.
It might take a couple trys, but it will work. I've managed to do this without damaging the magnets most of the time. Since yours are damaged already there's nothing that can go wrong. :thumb: