So, why not add another nightmare situation to owning this bike. Good news is, the shop is redoing the oil seal on the left fork for free. Anyway, so since there is only a slight leak, I decided to take my daughter to a buddy's house to drop off a game I borrowed. Long story short, we get back to the house, and as I'm putting the kickstand down, she hops off the bike, causing a lot of weight to be shifted to the left side. I wasn't ready for this, and the bike slowly dropped. The bike shut off after about a second or two of being down. I rushed over and picked it up. She freaked out, so I said it was fine and we went inside. I wanted to let all the fluids to go back to where they should be if they went anywhere. Fastforward about 4 hours, I go back out to assess the damage. I saw only a small, 3" diameter, puddle of what looks like oil where the bike was laid down. There are a few scratches on the transmission case, but the shift lever was untouched. That's about it. The problem now, is when I turned the bike on to put it in the garage, I wasn't paying attention, drove it a few feet and noticed the oil light was still on. I shut it down and checked the oil. The oil is about halfway between topped off and low. When I checked the oil about a week ago, it was at the full position -- about a hair above, really. I didn't notice any new sounds coming from the engine either.
So, I'm at your mercy again, GStwinners.
On a positive note, I passed the skills test and only lost 3 pts on the emergency stop. I didn't want to dive hard, so I laid off the front brakes due to the fork issue. Also, I seem to have solved the first gear power band inconsistency by richening up the mixture screw a half turn. 2 steps forward, one step back. I'm starting to think the universe just doesn't want me riding a motorcycle. Last time I owned one a few years ago, I ended up selling at a loss due to it having starting issues. I'm trying my best to stick it out with this one.
Recheck the oil. Remember to check oil with bike level - not on the side stand.
Also you check oil by dropping the dip stick in then taking it out. You don't screw it in to check the oil level. If you did that, and it is half full then really you are low on oil.
I checked the oil again, and it still at the halfway point. Would a laydown with only a tiny puddle really cause the oil light to be on like that? How long should I let it run after I put the oil in to see if the light goes off? Thanks, Adidas.
A bubble of air might have been trapped in the oil gallery behind the switch when it was lifted upright. Unscrew the switch, let it bleed oil from the gallery for a few seconds then tighten it back up and see what happens.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not sure where the switch is. I'm still new to bike engines. I'm assuming it's one of the wires that goes in through the left side of the crank case near the carbs?
Could just be a pinched wire shorting out from the fall.
Well, I tried unscrewing a wire that screws into the left crank case above the shift lever. I couldn't get it out all the way because is being pushed down pretty hard from under the gas tank. I just put it back in and locked the nut down. Is there a certain depth this thing should be at? I just put it back down to where it looked close to what it did before. I'll check for any pinched wires.
Is it possible that there's air in the oil pump -- even though the pump is on the side of the lay down? I'm a bit worried to cycle the oil through by turning on the engine.
Sanchez: This comment is note about your oil light problem but something else I noticed and am concerned about...
- You have only JUST passed your skills test
- you had a pillion on the back
- you tried to put the sidestand down while the pillion was still on the bike.
Clearly you have no real experience with a pillion otherwise you would not have tried to put the side stand down while the pillion was still on the bike; you would have instructed the pillion about the correct time to get off/on the bike. And with only just now passing your skills test what makes you think you are now skilled enough to ride with someone else on the back?
I am also concerned with the "rushed over and picked it up". Where were you to be rushing over to it to pick it up? Why weren't you still sitting on the bike?
For your pillions sake, please do not take anyone else on the bike with you until YOU have more experience riding. And don't EVER again take another person on a bike with a leaking shock. You want to risk yourself fine, but risking harm to another person is not on. Nor is it responsible riding.
Michael
Mister, while I appreciate the advice, you're a bit insulting in presenting it. As I've mentioned before, this is not my first bike, nor is it my first endorsement. The leaky seal is on the opposite side of the rotor, and it is a slowish leak. There is no dripping while riding. The dive in the forks is slightly worse than they are originally. I was told by the dealership that riding on a fork with that type of leak is just fine, so I have had no other competing advice. And I am usually inclined to take the advice of mechanics and experienced riders when it is given.
Now, I see no reason why the sidestand should not be down when leaving the bike -- myself or the passenger. It gives more stability and avoids the passenger pulling the bike with the opposite leg due to snags. I would imagine it would be a bad idea not to have the stand down when getting off a bike, but, if I'm wrong about this, I'm wrong. I just don't see how it would logically coincide with reality. I've been told this is proper procedure by multiple people, and I've seen nothing but this being done. You should concede the opportunity to chastise until you know the facts of the situation or the actual knowledge of the one you're accusing of being willfully ignorant.
Before riding with any passenger, I instruct them on how to ride the bike with me and when to get off. My daughter was very excited as I've never let her on the bike with me before. She was too young the last time I rode. She hopped off the bike to tell my wife (as she said after we went inside as she still felt very guilty).
As for "rushing...", the passenger was off the bike already. If you recall, I had said she got off before I was ready for her to, put too much weight on the left side, and pulled the bike down as she was getting off. I was still straddling the bike. When the bike fell, and it was passed the point to where I could save it, I hopped to the side in order to avoid getting my leg pinned under a hot engine. After the bike fell, I was a good 5 ft. away from the bike; hence, I rushed over and picked it up.
Quote from: 00sanchez on May 07, 2012, 01:38:17 AM
Well, I tried unscrewing a wire that screws into the left crank case above the shift lever. I couldn't get it out all the way because is being pushed down pretty hard from under the gas tank. I just put it back in and locked the nut down. Is there a certain depth this thing should be at? I just put it back down to where it looked close to what it did before. I'll check for any pinched wires.
Is it possible that there's air in the oil pump -- even though the pump is on the side of the lay down? I'm a bit worried to cycle the oil through by turning on the engine.
The oil pressure switch is on the right side of the motor. The oil pump is on the bottom of the motor, almost directly above the drain plug.
Thats unfortunate. I think it was a collaborative effort that dropped the bike. Good thing you
dont have a bunch of dumb plastic fairings! :icon_mrgreen:
My girl friend rides with me often on the bike, because I hate driving my car, and I find the best protocol is to stop,
put the side stand down, and instruct her to get off the left side. this way, even if the old leg blows out, the ss is there to catch me.
in your case, a combination of being new to the bike and sudden movement by the passenger put you past your limit, and it fell. woopdee doo. it happens. I've dropped my bike, you've dropped your bike, the next guy has dropped his bike! We learn from these things.
As for the oil light, you likely got some air or debris in the sensor, but i wouldn't drive it until you can verify. It could be debris in the pump, which is bad.
Thanks, guys. I'll go check the sensor now. I'm crossing my fingers here.
Ok, I still can't find this mythical oil pressure switch. I saw one wire going under the crank case on the right side, but I assume that's the startor wiring. The only other thing I see is a roughly 3/4" bolt screwed into a cylindrical opening standing around 1" or so from the case under the carb on the right side. I feel like I'm missing something here. I can't find this thing in the clymer manual either.
Quote from: Big Rich on May 07, 2012, 04:22:47 AM
The oil pressure switch is on the right side of the motor. The oil pump is on the bottom of the motor, almost directly above the drain plug.
Oil sump filter is on the bottom as you mention.
The actual oil pump is located behind the clutch. You must remove the clutch to remove the oil pump.
Check the oil sump filter for debris. If it is clogged, you can have low oil pressure. While the bottom oil pan is off, look there for metal crap. If there is any, you cave serious problems (Junior's engine is an example of a SERIOUS problem that went undetected and no one guessed was a problem.)
Oil pressure switch is under the right side timing cover. It has a single wire going to it. It looks like a bolt with a wire screwed to the top. You can remove the wire.
If you remove the sensor, all the oil comes out (unless you drained the oil first).
It completes a connection to ground. If wire is shorted to the frame, the oil light comes on. You can check this by turning on the bike and seeing the light is on. Disconnect the wire and the light will go out. If you disconnect the wire and the light stays on, ut is shorted out somewhere. Follow the wire...
You will find it in the ELECTRICAL section of the manuals - not oil & lubrication as one would expect
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/oil_pressure_switch.png)
Thanks, adidas. I removed the wire and turned on the bike. There was no light. I unscrewed the bolt like a previous poster had suggested to release air/oil. I unscrewed the bolt and nothing came out... I checked the oil level again (this time in the garage on for sure level ground) and it was at the F mark. I smelled it for gas, but there was nothing... just oil. It was a bit runny as a drip or two came off the stick.
Any other ideas before I drain the system and check the pump? This is something I really want to avoid ;) I assume I also have to drain it to check the pan for bits.
Remember, this was a laydown where the bike was at around 45 degrees from the ground before it was released. I wouldn't think this thing would be that fragile.
Quote from: Funderb on May 07, 2012, 07:04:50 AM
My girl friend rides with me often on the bike, because I hate driving my car, and I find the best protocol is to stop,
put the side stand down, and instruct her to get off the left side. this way, even if the old leg blows out, the ss is there to catch me.
Same here, Its the safest way. Sometimes i even lean the bike a touch to the Left before letting the GF get off, makes it easier for her and means the bike is less likely to want to fall to the Right.
Sanchez - Before you start ripping into your engine, try this..
Put it on level ground and get on, with both feet on the floor (Assuming you can touch the floor)
Give it a hard shake left and right. Careful - dont drop it!!!
Start it up, same problem?
If problem is still there, shake it hard while its idling.
Problem still there? STOP & TURN IT OFF.
Also, check all the wiring for the oil light. You'll be pissed if you rip the oil pump out and it turn out to be a connection shaken loose or wire broken..
If that doesnt work, then get a hammer... :technical:
You ruled out the wire shorted to the frame.
I haven't removed the oil sensor in a bile with oil. I would have expected oil to come out. Probably only when engine running as that would have to be under pressure.
At the moment I am unsure other than a bad sensor.
If the sensor is out and you press the starter, the oil pump should squirt oil out of the sensor hole. The top end should be well lubricated if you take the valve cover off. If all that is good, then maybe it is the sensor.
Time for an engine expert extraordinaire to chime in.
Thanks for the suggestions again, guys. I'll go crank the engine and hope some oil spurts out of the sensor hole and it's just an air bubble messing with the sensor. My daughter just got home from school and still feels really bad. I just told her it was my fault and not to worry. I have a feeling she's going to be this way until I get it running. Poor girl :(
Leave the switch out and crank it over a few times until oil starts to flow out of the hole. Lift both the plug caps off before cranking it over, you DONT want the engine to catch.
(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t469/00sanchez/20120507_153712.jpg)
Ok, this is the pic of how I have it now. I started it up twice for about 5 seconds each time. Should I do it longer? No oil came out.
It appears you removed the small bolt that connects the wire, not the whole sensor. The sensor is that big silver bolt thingy with the black post then the brass screw hole on it.
:oops: I had a feeling. Ok, I'll go remove it properly this time and crank it.
I think you better have a bucket handy........
Lol, yeah. I was thinking the same thing. Do you happen to know what size socket this takes? I just went out and bought a 22mm deep socket and it's still too small. Any bigger, though, and it looks like it wont fit in there.
Not at the Cave to check.
Probably have to remove the timing pickup. Looks like that's in the way.
If it is the pressure sensor, it is part 37820-33D10 about $26 found on parts lists for "crankcase cover"
If not that, then time for the others to chime in.
I'm just wondering where the 3" diameter puddle of oil came from in the 5 seconds or so that it was on the ground. Should anything come out as far as fluids in that amount of time?
Once your fixed, use engine cleaner and get her spotless and dry. Then baby powder her. Run her. Look for oil.
Probably a leak somewhere that doesn't do much - like the valve cover. maybe the cam chain tensioner and there was a puddle of oil at the front of the engine that spilled out when tipped over.
I found Trey's leak that way. Cam chain tensioned has a minute dribble. A drop or two a day is all. Unfortunately the nuts for it are impossible to tighten without removing the carbs so that will stay that way for a long time (until the carbs need to come out).
I assumed it was oil as it was dark. It could have been gas, which is more likely since the puddle isn't there anymore.
Ok, so I have to take off the stator plate/signal rotor. Well, my son is helping me and I had him start loosening the rotor bolt, but he actually started turning the rotor itself (the larger 19mm thing you turn when adjusting valves). He turned it left and right. How bad is this? Again, mostly my fault for not being more specific, so I'm just going to let myself screw things up from now on.
Also, when I take this plate/genterator rotor off, will oil spill from it as well, or just when I remove the sensor?
Might not have to remove the rotor. The plate might be enough to be able to get a socket at the oil sensor. If off, the plate could be rotated or angled to get a socket on the oil sensor.
Probably should drain the oil. Then here we're getting a little beyond where I've taken things.
I've taking things apart and putting back together, but haven't bothered with only the oil sensor. I've removed the entire side (as seen in Junior's demise and the counter balance bearing - or what's left of it.) Did remove the rotor and timing sensor plate. Those are simple to do.
The rotor has an index pin. If the whole thing turned, you probably just turned the engine which is OK. You remove the rotor by holding it with a big wrench and using a small one on the center bolt. Use thread lock when putting it back on. There is no problem with removing it.
FYI: I believe it is suggested to turn the engine only clockwise. Counter clockwise only a very short amount as when going for top dead center, needing cams exactly right for valve adjustment, or something like that. Continuous only clockwise as that's the way the motor turns.
Can I just ask why you aren't supposed to turn the engine the counter-clockwise? What damage could it possibly do? I think I turned mine a little counter clockwise when I was trying to get my camchain back on and properly aligned.
One of the screws just stripped on the stator plate, and I don't have the tools to continue with this. I've already dumped around 700 into this thing, and I've been able to ride it for about 5 days out of the 3 months I've had it. I think I should just stick to cars or wait until I can buy a new bike that doesn't break if you look at it funny.
Anyway, I appreciate the help through the multiple help threads I've started here. The universe has spoken, and I shouldn't be riding this bike. I'll likely be able to get half of what I paid originally with it in this condition...
Quote from: bombsquad83 on May 07, 2012, 03:41:58 PM
Can I just ask why you aren't supposed to turn the engine the counter-clockwise? What damage could it possibly do? I think I turned mine a little counter clockwise when I was trying to get my camchain back on and properly aligned.
I've been advised to only go clockwise. It may have something to do with the cam chain tensioner and its automatic adjustment. I really doubt a few turns backwards would do any harm - especially if you're adjusting cams and chain. Might be more of an issue if you were just there cranking it backwards.
Oh - the oil pump would be going backwards! Oil gets sucked out of everything rather than getting pumped into the bearings. So a few turns could be fine. Constant reverse turning would be running things dry.
Sanchez -
don't give up. There is an oil pressure tester and a plug on the bottom right side. Maybe you can borrow a tester just to know if pressure is low or just the sensor? The Haynes manual shows how to do a real oil pressure test using a gauge screwed into that bottom right plug on the right side cover.
JIS screwdrivers and an impact driver are needed for some of the screws. I stripped an oil sump screw then hit it with the impact driver and it came right out.
Could be worse. You could have one of these situations and that is much worse than what you have now:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Juniors%20Demise/DSC01993a.jpg)
(Too soon?)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/xunedeinx/IMG_20120420_071335.jpg)
Quote from: adidasguy on May 07, 2012, 04:54:48 PM
Could be worse. You could have one of these situations and that is much worse than what you have now:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Juniors%20Demise/DSC01993a.jpg)
(Too soon?)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/xunedeinx/IMG_20120420_071335.jpg)
LOL! Maybe too soon for Xune, but for Sanchez, perfect timing I think!
Well, I suppose I shouldn't give up. Yesterday was just a very bad day, I suppose. I know I didn't get a great deal on the bike, so all of this extra work just gets me a little irked. It was either this or an 04 honda 919. I chose this because I haven't ridden in a while and it was about 2k cheaper. At this point it's closing in on 1300 cheaper. By the end, they may have cost the same amount and I would have had more power, fuel injection and liquid cooling if I had went with the 919. So, this is the main reason for my baby quitting fit. It's compounded by having absolutely nobody around me that knows anything about bikes. All of my friends are like me and only work on cars.
I sent the wife to get an impact driver while I take off the cap and get things ready. I'm going to leave the oil in and hope for the best at this point. I just changed the oil/filter before taking it to the shop a month ago, and I use synthetic on all my vehicles. That stuff is not cheap. I have about 3/4 quart left in the last bottle, so I can top off with it.
I'm really crossing my fingers here, guys. Wish me luck.
You can drain oil into a clean container and put it back in.
Ok, before I go draining oil. I finally got the screw out. I got an impact gun, but it was too far stripped for any of my 8 different phillips bits to work, so I had to cut a standard slot with a dremel. So, I got the stator plate and rotor out. I had to make 3 return trips to autozone, but I finally got a deep well socket to fit the sensor -- it's a 24mm btw. So, no oil came out. Is this normal? In a previous post, somebody said to crank it for oil to come out.. will that be ok with the stator/rotor off?
Yeah, that will be ok. You really don't want it to start, but you want it to crank fast enough to pump some oil.
Ok, cranked it until oil came out. Put everything back on and fired her up. Still got the light. What's the next step? Drain the oil and reinstall the oil filter to make sure no air is trapped in there as well? I've heard this happens, but I just can't grasp how it would stay like that with an active oil pump or why it would cause this issue even if there were air trapped in it.
How long did you let the bike run? It takes a little while for the oil to circulate through the system when you change the oil, may be having the same effect.
-Jessie
I let it run for about 10-15 seconds. Reved it to about 2.5k twice then shut it off out of fear.
Never really timed it but I would think that would be long enough. Something I'll pay more attention to next time I change the oil.
-Jessie
Lol, yeah, when I changed the oil, it seemed about the same time. I suppose I'll change the oil tomorrow and keep the same filter as it's only been 1k or less driving. I'm wary about reusing the oil even if it's been a short amount of time.
How much does it cost to replace that sensor. If you got oil spurting out, then doesn't that mean you should have oil pressure?
Well, it just means you have oil spurting out. It doesn't necessarily mean you have adequate pressure. Air in the filter will pump out in 15-20 seconds in my experience. If it was me, I would try to borrow an oil pressure gauge and get a real number.
I believe the way to test the sensor is for continuity only. Double check a service manual first, but I think the whole procedure is as follows:
No continuity when the engine is running
Continuity when the engine is off
So if the sensor is showing "no" continuity with a multimeter while its not mounted, it needs replaced. Does that make sense?
I think the sensor is around $17 online. Might be mid 20s, I can't recall. The oil just slowly came out, there was no real push: Imagine bleeding from a small pin prick on your finger. I suppose I can pull the cap off and check continuity tomorrow. Should I have seen more pressure pushing the oil out of the sensor hole?
What if there is air in the pump? Would that remove itself as well?
One note about the sensor. There seemed to be a small chip off of the black insulator (assuming that's what it is) part, but it wasn't exposing any metal bits.
As for borrowing a pressure guage, where would I do this at? I don't really know any local motorcycle mechanics, and I'm not sure autozone would have one that would work on my bike. Is there one specific for this bike or are most pressure switches the same diameter?
Procedure:
http://www.familyjones.org/paul/Oil%20press.pdf
Cheap test kit. Not sure what size adapter you need. http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html
Call local autoparts stores to see if they have one to loan.
Ok, since oil actually came out of the sensor hole, I'm going to just get a new sensor as it is $4 cheaper than the online gauge, and no stores around me had them in stock. My thinking is this: if the sensor is bad and it does have pressure, the new sensor will show that. If the light stays on after the new sensor, it's either no pressure or a crimped wire. Either way, it will do the same thing (well, almost) as the gauge for $4 cheaper and if there was proper pressure, I'd have to get a new sensor anyway.
The only issue is if the new sensor is working, but there is pressure, but just low -- meaning the oil pump has air in it or is faulty. I think? Am In the right track here? Fork seals came in yesterday, but I can't take the bike up there now. This bike...
If you have a small dribble, like coming from a pin prick on your finger, that will not give you any Pressure for the sensor to read. Which is what you are experiencing right now. It's also too slow a flow to be useful for the engine. So Something somewhere is restricting oil flow. Buy the sensor if you want but I don't think that is your problem - or only problem.
Michael
That's what I feared, but, either way, the pressure gauge would have been a bigger waste of money.
The only other thing I could possibly think of is air in the oil pump (ok, the only other thing I want it to be). How would one get air out of the pump and get it to run correctly again?
Let me know where you got that deal on the pressure sensor, and if the old sensor was faulty. I'm in a similar situation.
Drain the oil.
Take off the oil pan.
is there crap in it?
Look up underneath at the oil sump screen filter. Is it loaded with crap?
There could be crap in there. The fall-over may have dislodged the gunk and now it is clogging up everything.
also re-check the oil filter. didn't this also happen about the time you did an oil change?
As for air in the oil pump: It is a positive displacement pump. Air will just pump out.
Adidas, Kinda. I did the oil change before it went in the shop, so it had to be over a month ago; however, it had only been driven maybe 50 miles before it went to the shop and maybe 200 after... so yes and no, depending on how you look at it. I'll drain out the oil today and get another filter just in case it's clogged.
If you use synthetic, can you switch back to regular oil? Ever since I put it in, I've been worried it will effect the wet clutch even though it's motorcycle synthetic for wet clutches... I've just heard bad things ever since.
Juan, will do. I got the switch at cheapcycleparts.com. I don't think it's going to resolve the issue, though, due to the way the oil came out of the hole the switch screws into.
Paul, I was worried about that, lol. I was hoping adidas wasn't right, but I think he may be.
Get the oil pan gasket. Remove the oil pan and have a look. If there are internal problems, maybe metal will show there. You can look up at the sump screen, too. If clogged, something is amiss.
You can take off the valve cover. See if oil is getting up there. If not, you have a blockage somewhere. Maybe the oil pump got wacky after the bike fell over?
Maybe your GS is not happy with the different oil?
I'm almost sure the gs isn't happy with the oil. It ran a bit differently after the oil change, but not in a "bad" way... just differently. I don't want it to become a bad thing, so I'd like to switch back to a regular oil for this change. Is it possible to switch back to regular after using synthetic?
Yeah, no problem.
Awesome, going to switch back and do a full oil change and check the oil pan after I get the gasket ordered. Thanks guys. This bastard will run again or my wife will kill me :)
Ok, I was about to go out into the garage and start messing with things until... the clymer manual says to remove the engine from the frame and flip it upside down in order to remove the pan. Seriously? I don't have the equipment for this. Can I just slide the pan from between the engine and the exhaust or do I have to remove the exhaust as well?
Remember: I don't own a GS. So take this with a grain of salt........
I would say taking the exhaust off is mandatory (don't snap any studs though). If you can access the bolts on the left side of the pan (if you were sitting on the bike), then the front / rear/ right sides shouldn't be a problem.
But wait for somebody else to confirm.
The oil pan is below and between the sides of the frame. You can take it off if you remove the muffler.
I would not turn the motor upside down. The idea is to see what's fallen into the oil pan - if anything. Upside down would let what's there fall back into the engine. You want to examine it for crap. If you were servicing the engine, then you would need it upside down. To check for crap, take it off without disturbing things.
Ok, I will do that when the gasket arrives. For now, I just drained the oil after putting some seafoam to see if it would loosen some stuff up if it was hanging around in the sump filter or oil pump. I didn't run the bike, however, so I don't know how well it would have worked. I just drained the oil and took off the filter. The filter had no oil in it... More precisely, it had had oil ran through it and was saturated, but there was no oil actually in the filter like there usually is. Could this mean that air was trapped inside and was not allowing oil to be pumped into it, thus causing the problem; or, what I hope is not the case, that the pump just wasn't pumping oil into the filter?
I'm hoping for the prior as I do NOT want to dismantle the clutch to get to the pump. Here's to hoping. Hopefully the sensor and gasket will be in tomorrow and I can pick up a new filter at napa. Crossing my fingers.
Edit: no metal bits were stuck to the plug, so that's a plus.
Air will push right through the filter. You have a blockage in the short distance from the pump to the filter, or no oil pressure.
http://www.familyjones.org/paul/Engine%20lubrication%20chart.pdf
Think to remember: Many of the metal bits could be aluminum. all of Junior's metal crap as aluminum from the inside of the case - no steel. Crap can also be non-metalic.
Ahh! Stop scaring me! Still waiting on the gasket and pressure switch. Should have been here by now. I'm going to pick up the new filter and take off the oil pan to check when I get back in town. I'll just leave it off for when the new gasket gets here. I assume the old gasket is unusable once you take the pan off?
Edit: Will the screen be removable with the engine still in the frame as well in case it needs to be cleaned?
Screen is screwed on tight. You might be able to get it out with the correct JIS screwdriver. I had to use an impact wrench.
If there is stuff on it, you can probably clean it out with it there. However, if there is stuff, try to figure out what it is.
Hopefully just a sensor or some filth came lose. Might be the change in oil. Might be a problem with the new oil filter. These things happened shortly before you had the problem.
Could the oil filter be off place? Maybe whoever out the oil filter in lost the spring on the oil filter cover? Knocking bike over made filter get out of position without the spring?
I have an impact gun, but without a proper fork stand or jack, I don't think it would fit. But, yeah, I don't think it will need to be taken off either.
The oil filter seemed snug in there and the spring was still in the cover. It all looked kosher except for there being no oil in the filter besides the saturation from previous proper working conditions.
I'm headed out to the garage to dump the cheap walmart 10w40 and the new filter in and see if it works. If not, I'm praying it's a clogged sump filter or a bad sensor... but the bad sensor is looking less and less likely a culprit now that I've seen the old filter.
Ok, the little bastard lives!!! :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
I just changed the oil... after all that, that's all I had to do. My youngest daughter is now my good luck charm, and I will drag her into that garage every time I touch one of my bikes.
Thanks to all that walked me through this issue and didn't let me give up. Maybe the filter was clogged and I didn't notice. Maybe there was an air bubble in there that prevented pressure. Maybe the seafoam worked. Who knows? So, Juan, if you're still following this, change your oil and filter :)
On another note, anyone in need of an oil pan gasket and pressure switch? Lol.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/domokundance.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/minicat-3.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/dancing_wiener.gif)