I'm changing my front brake pads and I'm curious about the inner pad. Is it supposed to be wedged between the metal bracket and the caliper or does it sit freely against the outer (and longer) pad? My manual isn't very helpful here, just telling me to "replace pads."
Thanks
Adam
(http://bikebandit.com/partsbandit/assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0085_051.gif)
Well, I figured out how the old pads go back on (the tabs on the ends of the inner pad fit under the tabs on the caliper) but I could not in an 1.5 hrs of time get the new pads on. There just was no clearance fit the rotor through the pads, even with the pistons fully retracted. Also, the inner pad would not stay in place. I think maybe I was sold a set of pads that might not be for the GS.
Adam
How did they compare to the previous pads ?
Both EBC brands I have used looked just like the stockers in shape.
I did't have any trouble fitting it back over the rotor. Just a little bit of wiggeling.
I also found that, with the new pads in, there was about 1mm of space between the two pads: nowhere near enough to slip over the rotor, no matter how thin Suzuki makes 'em.
I took the tried-and-true method of inserting a screw-driver between the pads to pry them further apart... which gouged the pads a bit. If I'd been smarter, I'd have pried-apart the cylinders before I added the pads; or at least pried the pads apart with wood, not metal. I suppose I could have inserted a few cedar shims and pounded them in, then pulled them out, broken them off (to make them thicker) and repeated until the pads were far-enough apart.
But I was impatient, and anyways, I'll be done with this set of pads in no time :) so I'll do a better job on the next set.
Yeah, 1 mm or so is about what I had with EBC 129 pads. I did try to wedge apart the caliper even more, but I think I had it all the way out. There's got to be some simple secret that I'm missing because swapping brake pads isn't supposed to be complicated.
Someone (on the OLD version of this board, I think) had a technique that used 1 or 2 C-clamps to retract the caliper pistons.
If they simply refuse to move you could crack the bleeder valve a bit while you try to compress them. But you would have to be careful not to let air back in. Two pairs of hands would be nice if you go this route.
Quote from: KerrySomeone (on the OLD version of this board, I think) had a technique that used 1 or 2 C-clamps to retract the caliper pistons.
If they simply refuse to move you could crack the bleeder valve a bit while you try to compress them. But you would have to be careful not to let air back in. Two pairs of hands would be nice if you go this route.
Yep, and right there's a good reason to consider the state of the pads before topping off the brake fluid reservoir, it may be that when the pads are changed, the excess fluid pushed back into the reservoir will overflow the container. I usually crack open the reservoir a little when changing pads, JIC the container doesn't vent properly in the reverse direction.
Since I usually bleed after I change pads it makes sense.
I'v used the c-clamp method and it works a treat, better than the screwdriver trick. Just make sure you get one big enough to go over he assembly.
Just throw in the old pads to pry them apart with a screwdriver.
Open the bleeder valve and it will open up easier. If you take the cover off the reservoir you could overflow and make a mess. Also if the fluid level is high in the reservoir, it would keep the pads from opening up all the way with the cap on so just open the bleeder. Then close it when it's pryed open.
As long as you don't pull the brake lever, there's no worry about air getting in. You should bleed the system and flush out the old fluid anyway. ;)