Latest update:
Everything works now. I pulled the carbs out again and checked the choke fuel pickup, it looksed clear on the larger hole inlet opening, but the exiting smaller opening might not have been. Blasted it with some maf sensor cleaner, used a little wire to clear out any junk from the exiting opening and blasted some air through it. Rechecked the float levels and assembled every back together.
Choke on, it revs at 1500 to 2000, and both cylinders are firing, after warm up it goes to 3500-4000 rpm and then turn the choke off.
Thanks all for suggestions and pointers.
I didn't get a chance to check for spark, or check the valves, thats probably next up.
Hey all, So I'm pulling out my hair trying to figure this out.
2000 GS500E sat for 3 years, and obviously had gunked up carbs. Pulled the tank, carbs, put in new orings, floats, and from K&L carb rebuild kit and adjusted the floats.
Initially i tried using some homedepot orings and the left carb was flooding and not firing (fuel comping out of the exhaust header) changed the oil, ordered the carb rebuilt kit and put in the correct orings, float needles etc.
Second time around after an oil change, left side of engine was firing and getting warm, but right carb was leaking fuel from the main air jet, so back to float adjustment, and now with fuel going straight into the carb, the floats and needle are holding up the fuel.
The problem now is when I start the bike, with choke on, the rpm is around 1200, and is a little runs rough. idle mixture screws are about 2 -3/4 out (new orings there too) and idle screw is just slightly pushing the throttle.
I have a funnel and hose connecting to directly to the carb, left carb has vacuum still connected to the petcock, overflow hose still on and carb intake boots tightened. Carb cap orings are present and seem to be working fine. (tried using the ones in the kit and also some fat homedepot ones).
My guess is I have a vacuum leak somewhere. cause it starts, and giving it some throttle it sputters bu the the slides only slightly move with some backfire popping. (airbox removed) to see how the slides are moving.
The diaphragms looks good as far as i can tell.
Before I go on and checking the valves, my question is if there is anything else to check? Does the return hose from the engine need to be connected to the airbox? and does the left carb petcock vacuum hose need to be on tight?
Other than the boots, where else should I spray wd40 to check for vacuum leaks??
Thanks... I'll try to get some pix later.. if it helps.
The return hose doesn't need to be attached to the airbox as it is only there to remix unburnt gas fumes. This is not connected with pods or lunchboxes. Do you hear valve chatter at all? After sitting for 3 years, checking the valves wouldn't be a bad idea anyway to check if the buckets aren't stuck. Have you synched the carbs?
When you hear the carb popping, is this only with the airbox off? When everything is hooked up, how is it running rough? Backfire, hunting idle? If you rev the engine, does the idle hang? How long are you letting it warm up. Stock exhaust, air filter, jets? Pilot jets US stock or 40s?
As far as the vacuum hose, I'm not sure as I believe it is only necessary when you are drawing gas from the petcock on the on or reserve settings.
Edit: Have you read the plugs?
Looks like my right carb is still leaking fuel from the main air jet. I thought I fixed it last night, but added fuel after work today and its still leaking out.
I opened up the bowl and the tilted the edge of the tab are at the same level as the good left carb float, but looks like the metal tab bend may be off.
Would a float level be the only reason for a main air jet fuel leak? The emulsion tube oring is original, cause i can't find on that will fit.
I'll try adjusting the floats again later tonight.
(http://i47.tinypic.com/33ud2ti.jpg)
A bad needle valve or seat would cause this to happen as well. You're confusing me by not answering some of the questions though. You say you're running lean, but you're getting fuel dump. It wont matter what your float height is if the needle isn't doing its job. Check this and do a valve adjust for good measure.
Sorry for the confusion, initially i thought the floats were set right, but the airbox was on and I didn't see or notice a leak in the main air jet. The bike would run at 1200rpm and then stall. The right side would be cold.
I then pulled the airbox and notice that fuel was coming out of the main air jet, and then tweaked the float on that side again. poped the carb on the bike added fuel and seems like it wasn't leaking anymore last night..so drained the fuel from my funnel and from the bowls.
All that was yesterday. and I posted my question on the board. When i got back from work and added fuel, it looked like the right main air jet was still leaking (maybe I didn't see it last night :mad: ) thats the picture above.
So then i pull the carbs off again. check the floats and adjust them again, and this time seems like the no more fuel leak. Started up the bike and it seems like its running abit better. Both sides of the engine are hot and I pull the plugs (picture below)
(http://i49.tinypic.com/2r5zzm0.jpg)
Here is a video of the popping sound i now hear.
http://youtu.be/N5Wg_yEAj74
Here is a video some smoke, coming out what seems to be the front of the exhaust. and the gauge light going out.
http://youtu.be/X8otVpOY40E
Choke is on all the way on both videos, taking it off choke, it just stalls
Well, running without the airbox on will cause a super lean condition which will account for the popping you're hearing. Does it do this with the box on as well?
Concerning the smoke, I can't really see it in the video; however, if you've done a recent oil change, and if you got any oil on the pipes, this will burn off and cause smoke as well. Does it smell like oil or exhaust fumes?
The right side looks rich/fouled, which makes sense as it is the problem side. Have you checked for proper spark on that side? If you're not getting good spark, you will have this issue as well. Do a quick spark check to see if it's strong.
Ahh. I'll try putting on the airbox back tomorrow. Looking at the second video again, at second 15, it does looks possible oil was burning off, i think while i was the gauge lights going out and smoke, i freaked and hit the kill switch.
Haven't checked the sparks.. Thanks for the suggestions.
No problem. Let me know what you find.
Hey greansea. Sounds like you are having similar issues that I had when I first tried to rebuild my carbs. One issue that I had was with the K&L rebuild kit was the with the needle valve similar to what you had. No matter what I did with the tabs, I could not get them to stop the fuel flow properly. I ended up cleaning up my old valve seats and reusing them, but I'm having some issues with those again so I ended up ordering new OEM needle valves. Hopefully that will be the answer (not cheap!).
Another issue that I had was with the choke. It ended up that the jet on the bottom of the float itself that feeds that choke circuit was clogged completely. Once I unclogged it, all was well with the choke. A small guitar string works well to clean out jets.
Last thing that helped out on my bike was replacing the diaphragms. The old ones looked fine, but I think they were a little stiff which caused a lot of inconsistency in throttle response. My old ones might have been ok, but it never hurts to replace an old rubber part if you can swing it.
Keep going at it and you'll get it eventually. Make sure your floats are holding correctly first, then move on to addressing vacuum leaks, then move on from there. Good luck!
You might want to do a compression test as well, just to make sure you engine is in good shape.
I still have the oe float needles and it does seem like the little spring piston thing is a little taller on the K&L, although comparing them side by side with the oe, they are the same height. overall. Unfortunately my float needle seats are a little dinged up from pliers trying to force them in with wrong orings, so i 'm not sure if i can reuse the float seats. (maybe i can mix and match the OE float needles with K&L seat and oring set?
The jet you mentioned at the bottom of the float, are they these (in blue label) Pix borrowed from ben2go
(http://i47.tinypic.com/2ufv8ma.jpg)
I blasted those holes with maf cleaner, but notice on the other end may still have some crud, the other day. Will have to get ahold of some guitar string.
As for the diaphragms, i haven't looked much into them other than cleaning them and keeping them lubricated with 2cycle oil.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on May 17, 2012, 08:00:14 AM
Hey greansea. Sounds like you are having similar issues that I had when I first tried to rebuild my carbs. One issue that I had was with the K&L rebuild kit was the with the needle valve similar to what you had. No matter what I did with the tabs, I could not get them to stop the fuel flow properly. I ended up cleaning up my old valve seats and reusing them, but I'm having some issues with those again so I ended up ordering new OEM needle valves. Hopefully that will be the answer (not cheap!).
Another issue that I had was with the choke. It ended up that the jet on the bottom of the float itself that feeds that choke circuit was clogged completely. Once I unclogged it, all was well with the choke. A small guitar string works well to clean out jets.
Last thing that helped out on my bike was replacing the diaphragms. The old ones looked fine, but I think they were a little stiff which caused a lot of inconsistency in throttle response. My old ones might have been ok, but it never hurts to replace an old rubber part if you can swing it.
Keep going at it and you'll get it eventually. Make sure your floats are holding correctly first, then move on to addressing vacuum leaks, then move on from there. Good luck!
You might want to do a compression test as well, just to make sure you engine is in good shape.
Follow the tube with the blue arrow down to where it terminates. You will see a metal jet pressed into the plastic float. That is the starter fuel jet that was clogged for me. You should be able to see visually if yours is clogged or not.
I used the K&L seats with the OE needles for a while. It sort of worked, but the gas level was still too high, so I went back to the OE and tried adjusting again. Now I'm giving up and buying 2 new OE needle valve sets.
Looks like it might have been the choke fuel pickup. Thanks bombsquad83.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on May 17, 2012, 08:27:42 AM
Follow the tube with the blue arrow down to where it terminates. You will see a metal jet pressed into the plastic float. That is the starter fuel jet that was clogged for me. You should be able to see visually if yours is clogged or not.
I used the K&L seats with the OE needles for a while. It sort of worked, but the gas level was still too high, so I went back to the OE and tried adjusting again. Now I'm giving up and buying 2 new OE needle valve sets.