For people who were curious about the T-Rexx Frame sliders (http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=253) that install with no fairing modification, I installed them last night and they seem to work great! They're solid as a rock, and the mounting bracket actually seems to protect the engine rather than possibly stab it in a crash.
Just a note that T-Rexx has changed the design slightly of the slider bracket. It used to bolt directly into the crankcase using 2 smaller bolts along with 2 separate bars that go through the engine compartment, but now just has 2 offsets than sit on top of the crankcase bolts and do not directly attach to the motor casing. This still provides tons of crash protection but without possibly tearing into your engine on a high-speed slide.
(http://i.imgur.com/676cD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/P3BCW.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/UjNcf.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/f2uHe.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/z8Tcq.png)
Unlike other sliders that stick out from the fairing, I personally think these are pretty slick and look more stock. The only downfall is that it's now much harder to get at the oil cap to check the oil.
Enjoy!
Quote from: Formori on May 29, 2012, 05:54:54 AM
The only downfall is that it's now much harder to get at the oil cap to check the oil.
I recently purchased and installed these too, and you are right that they definately feel solid. A buddy and I grabbed these when moving the bike and they didn't budge; however, they definately get hot after a ride, so use caution there. This bothered me too about the oil cap... it is still accessible, but hard to get at with bigger hands, so be prepared to clean up a few drops of oil when checking it.
Quote from: Formori on May 29, 2012, 05:54:54 AM
Just a note that T-Rexx has changed the design slightly of the slider bracket. It used to bolt directly into the crankcase using 2 smaller bolts along with 2 separate bars that go through the engine compartment, but now just has 2 offsets than sit on top of the crankcase bolts and do not directly attach to the motor casing. This still provides tons of crash protection but without possibly tearing into your engine on a high-speed slide.
They sent me directions to the older design that bolted into the casing, so i thought i was missing some longer bolts and got frustrated... a quick call calmed me when they told me this 'slight design change'... It actually is a very quick and easy install!
- Bboy
Very cool.
Where did you get them? Did you order direct from the site?
For ordering to Canada you have to contact them by email and they send you a Paypal invoice. For states orders you can just use the site.
Excellent timing and feedback from the guys. Everything was included and while the instructions are a little vague, they're good enough to understand.
You may be able to find them on ebay as well. You may notice a cost difference between their site and their ebay listing; however, it ends up being the same with their 15 dollar shipping charge on their site and the 'free' shipping on ebay.
- Bboy
These are probably next on my list now. I'm still really wanting a ZG double bubble WS especially for the asthetics of it but this is more practical.
Do you think it's possible to put this on without removing the fairings or is it mandatory for the install?
I really hate taking those things off.
You would have to remove the fairing to get at the front bolt. Really easy to remove fairing - just a couple minutes.
See my video:
http://youtu.be/U2lIhoUUewo
I have a smoke double bubble - make me a reasonable offer. I swapped it out for the touring windshield.
Quote from: MVent03 on May 29, 2012, 11:05:59 AM
Do you think it's possible to put this on without removing the fairings or is it mandatory for the install?
I really hate taking those things off.
Pretty much have to take off the lower fairings to get at the forward engine mount bolt with any success. It really is an easy install that takes 20-30 mins including fairing removal.
- Bboy
Well I have a cracked fairing on the right from a drop, it's right at where the signal attaches. And my Stebel air horn is on the left. My positioning of the horn takes a lot of finessing to get the fairing back on that side.
I'll be doing this regardless. If I had done it first it might have saved me the cracked fairing.
You only have to remove the lower fairing, so it shouldn't effect the turn signal.
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.
Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 05:16:32 PM
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.
Its a big horn. :D
I couldn't position it in the stock location. So it's to the left side nestled partially in between the inner and outer sides of the lower fairing.
Getting the faring off isn't hard. It's putting it back on around the horn and lining up the holes.
Quote from: MVent03 on May 29, 2012, 08:09:46 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 05:16:32 PM
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.
Its a big horn. :D
I couldn't position it in the stock location. So it's to the left side nestled partially in between the inner and outer sides of the lower fairing.
Getting the faring off isn't hard. It's putting it back on around the horn and lining up the holes.
Please give is a thrill and show us a picture of this bad ass horn :icon_lol:
I bet cars think you're a truck barreling down on them.
I had T-Rex sliders fitted to my GS500F and they were great except for two things...
1. Access to the oil plug, but we know this already
2. The screws that hold the crossbar (running under the carbys) kept coming loose and falling out - they are piss weak though so don't over tighten them as they will snap! I ended up replacing them with some hi-tensile screws and used a little mid-strength loctite
Quote from: Unsane on May 29, 2012, 08:16:10 PM
I had T-Rex sliders fitted to my GS500F and they were great except for two things...
1. Access to the oil plug, but we know this already
2. The screws that hold the crossbar (running under the carbys) kept coming loose and falling out - they are piss weak though so don't over tighten them as they will snap! I ended up replacing them with some hi-tensile screws and used a little mid-strength loctite
Good to know, I replace a lot of bolts with Grade 8 or the 10.X metric bolts. Its overkill but I've had to many bolts strip on me. I've also turned into a locktite guy
Quote from: Unsane on May 29, 2012, 08:16:10 PM
2. The screws that hold the crossbar (running under the carbys) kept coming loose and falling out - they are piss weak though so don't over tighten them as they will snap! I ended up replacing them with some hi-tensile screws and used a little mid-strength loctite
... yeah, just after I talked these sliders up... wish I knew this 24 hours ago... washed my bike after riding to work today and noticed this screw was missing, must have jiggled loose and fell off sometime today. Gonna go pick up a new one at hardware store and I'm loctite 'n that puppy on there...
- Bboy
Well, when I get home, I'm loctit'ing both of those bolts in there so I don't lose one in the first place!
LOL :icon_mrgreen:
My theory is that the cross beam works up a bit of a vibration from the engine and the bolts dont stand a chance
I would also recommend putting in a packing washer between the cross beam and one of the side plates if there is any clearance
Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 08:13:19 PM
Quote from: MVent03 on May 29, 2012, 08:09:46 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 05:16:32 PM
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.
Its a big horn. :D
I couldn't position it in the stock location. So it's to the left side nestled partially in between the inner and outer sides of the lower fairing.
Getting the faring off isn't hard. It's putting it back on around the horn and lining up the holes.
Please give is a thrill and show us a picture of this bad ass horn :icon_lol:
I bet cars think you're a truck barreling down on them.
As requested,
Picture of install position without fairing.
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww219/MVent03/26ed8425.jpg)
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww219/MVent03/667c399e.jpg)
Kind of scary attaching a structural plate to the aluminum engine case. Looks like an easy way to crack the case in a crash.
:star:It's a lot thinner than it looks. If I remember correctly I believe it is the stock mount for the original horn. Just two thin pieces of aluminum bent to the correct angle. Not rigid at all.
Edit: Lol, I misunderstood the previous post.
Quote from: dgyver on May 30, 2012, 08:59:52 AM
Kind of scary attaching a structural plate to the aluminum engine case. Looks like an easy way to crack the case in a crash.
The mounting plate for the sliders doesn't actually mount to the engine casing, the two middle bolts are just spacers that sit on top of the bolt heads on the casing. The structural bars at the front and back of the plate are what take the load in a crash, protecting the engine but not putting excess stresses on it.
This is why they changed the design from case-mounted to offset like it is now, to better protect the engine while keeping the sliders in place.
Ok. Thanks for the explanation. :thumb:
Any idea how I get hold of some spare parts for T-Rex Racing Frame Sliders to reuse some after a crash?
Email them customerservice@t-rex-racing.com
Here is a link to the kit http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=253 (http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=253)
Thanks Cam
They are not cheap though. Trust me, I know as I had to order one puck. I have a full kit for sale though if your interested.