Hey guys, I'm Sean from Florida. I just registered yesterday in hopes you may be able to help me. I'm going to look at a '92 GS500 tomorrow morning, and everything about it seems good for the price and age except for the rear brake. The owner said that he was riding it one day and the rear brakes were functional, and then the next day they were not.
So my curiosity has led me here. The bike is listed up for $900, I wouldn't pay a dime over $800, and I'm hoping the rear brake thing is something simple. What do you experts think it might be? I'm hoping maybe the back brake is cable actuated and the cable just snapped or is loose.
The rear brake is a hydraulic disk on all models. Something I'd look at REAL closely because you definitely need brakes. Could be pads, calipers, air in fluid, etc.
I think it's relatively easy to pick up a whole rear brake system from a newer bike on ebay on the cheap. I wouldn't suggest messing around with it though if you aren't confident mechanically. Also, if the seller did not fix the brakes not working, you have to wonder what kind of maintenance (or lack there of) was done.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 05, 2012, 07:51:37 AM
I think it's relatively easy to pick up a whole rear brake system from a newer bike on ebay on the cheap. I wouldn't suggest messing around with it though if you aren't confident mechanically. Also, if the seller did not fix the brakes not working, you have to wonder what kind of maintenance (or lack there of) was done.
An all new rear brake assembly would just consist of the pads, rotor and caliper, plus the line to the master cylinder, correct? I'm very confident in my mechanical abilities, been doing all the repairs and maintenence on my 176k mile '91 F150 since I bought it back in '09 when I was 17.
The owner told me the brake has only been nonfunctional for a couple weeks. He's stopped riding it or spending money on it since he listed it for sale on May 15th. How would I go about inspecting the lines to see if they are the problem?
Look for cracks, dry rot, and leaks. Also check the fluid. Probably looks like motor oil.
EDIT: That's USED motor oil.
Quote from: jestercinti on June 05, 2012, 08:04:56 AM
Look for cracks, dry rot, and leaks. Also check the fluid. Probably looks like motor oil.
EDIT: That's USED motor oil.
Alright, thanks! Any idea how much a new brake line would be?
Something that can give you an idea of what to look for would be how the lever feels when compressed. Is it completely loose(bad cyclinder, leak, just disconnected)? does it have some resistance but inconsistencies (could indicate air in line)? Is it stuck solid (moisture in lines, need to replace lines)?
Other things to look for:
Is there fluid in the reservoir under the seat? If so, how does the fluid look (black, orange, yellowish?) Is there any visible fluid along the lines? All of the breaking parts intact such as caliper, pads, etc..
Answers to some these questions can help troubleshoot and let you have a better idea of whats going on, how much it'll take to repair, etc..
- Bboy
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on June 05, 2012, 08:08:48 AM
Quote from: jestercinti on June 05, 2012, 08:04:56 AM
Look for cracks, dry rot, and leaks. Also check the fluid. Probably looks like motor oil.
EDIT: That's USED motor oil.
Alright, thanks! Any idea how much a new brake line would be?
Stainless Steel brake lines (highly recommended) should run just under $50 from what I remember.
- Bboy
Quote from: BockinBboy on June 05, 2012, 08:09:34 AM
Something that can give you an idea of what to look for would be how the lever feels when compressed. Is it completely loose(bad cyclinder, leak, just disconnected)? does it have some resistance but inconsistencies (could indicate air in line)? Is it stuck solid (moisture in lines, need to replace lines)?
Other things to look for:
Is there fluid in the reservoir under the seat? If so, how does the fluid look (black, orange, yellowish?) Is there any visible fluid along the lines? All of the breaking parts intact such as caliper, pads, etc..
Answers to some these questions can help troubleshoot and let you have a better idea of whats going on, how much it'll take to repair, etc..
- Bboy
That is extremely helpful ,thank you. I'm stoked to go look at this thing, but just trying my best not to let wanting it cloud my judgement and make a bad purchase! I'll be saving your reply into my phone as a reminder for things to look for :thumb:
Price replacing the entire rear brake system to have an idea of how much you should be able to talk him down in price.
Quote from: Worm on June 05, 2012, 09:03:47 AM
Price replacing the entire rear brake system to have an idea of how much you should be able to talk him down in price.
Looking off of ebay, I can get a new master cylinder, lines and caliper for around $50, rotor for $25 and pads for $20. Which is $95 total. I'm gonna start negotiating at 700
if the rest of the bike seems to be in good shape and worth it. I'm not looking to buy a major project bike, but I don't mind fixing a couple things
This is the bike in question:
(http://images.craigslist.org/5Ne5L45E73Ea3Ge3H7c4m67f6596c050b1bd3.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/5N25Kd5H93K13F33N5c4m6bc7ca4bf59a1616.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/5Id5G85S43Fe3Ma3Ncc4m0e4e5f744f6f1f4a.jpg)
Personally, I'd price some paint too!! Not digging the colors! But if she runs good, aesthetics can always be changed!
Not digging that huge tank dent either! I'd look her over thoroughly for damage due to dropping! :o
And I'm with you Worm, not digging that color purple or the yellow wheels :nono:
You wouldn't happen to live in Vikings territory, would you? That might at least explain the color scheme.
Yeah, definitely looks like it's been down on both sides judging by the scratches on the engine covers. That dent is pretty rusty too. Hard to notice with the paint color! Also, that dash is not stock. Looks like something off an older bike. Not trying to scare you, just making you aware so you have negotiating ammo. Make sure you have the ability to walk away or you lose any power you had over the negotiations. Remember, there is a wealth of knowledge on here if you do decide to pick it up. Good luck tomorrow! :thumb:
Also, you may want to price out turn signals and make sure the wiring is there for them... You might look at the registration record to give you an idea if it was off the road for a long period of time.
I would be looking closely at the forks and frame for straightness, cracks, breaks, etc..
Like others have said, not putting this stuff out there to discourage, just lookin' out ;)
- Bboy
Edit: add wiring to turn signal comment
You guys are a huge help. I know you're not trying to discourage me, when it comes to trucks I tell people all the same stuff, I just don't know enough about the bikes yet. My buddy who's been riding for a few months is coming with me, and that's the closest I have to someone who's knowledgeable.
I also know that the bike will need some gauges. The more stuff that isn't "right" is more I can talk him down for so keep it coming! Do these GS's have any kind of sliders like I see on the bigger sport bikes?
And no, not in vikings territory... This is near Tampa, Florida. Red with the yellow wheels could be cool, or black and yellow.
They don't come stock with any mounts for sliders, but there are a few options out there now (yours is a naked GS, so it's much easier than the faired version).
I dunno about the red with yellow, but the black could definitely work. :thumb:
Could be a Batman bike! O0
New Tank = $200
New Gauges = $200
New Rear Brake system = $75
New Paint = $100 + lots of labor
Does not include issues you don't know about.
Something to think about...
Yes, R&G Racing make some frame sliders for the GS500.
Quote from: adidasguy on May 30, 2012, 12:35:12 AM
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Juniors%20Demise/DSC02181a.jpg)
There are also some engine guards for these bikes out there too.
Quote from: Cal Price on October 19, 2006, 01:22:48 AM
These are my "Rentec" engine bars. There are plenty out there if you trawl around the on-line suppliers.
(http://www.bbburma.net/CalPrice/CalsEngineGuards.jpg)
- Bboy
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on June 05, 2012, 10:22:40 AM
You guys are a huge help. I know you're not trying to discourage me, when it comes to trucks I tell people all the same stuff, I just don't know enough about the bikes yet. My buddy who's been riding for a few months is coming with me, and that's the closest I have to someone who's knowledgeable.
I also know that the bike will need some gauges. The more stuff that isn't "right" is more I can talk him down for so keep it coming! Do these GS's have any kind of sliders like I see on the bigger sport bikes?
And no, not in vikings territory... This is near Tampa, Florida. Red with the yellow wheels could be cool, or black and yellow.
florida = the chain is going to be shot too. that's a $3-400 bike, if it runs goooooood, has a brand new battery, 4 quarts of space shuttle shaZam! for oil, free filters, clymer manual, spare engine, helmet, boots, jacket, and gloves or a tug job thrown in for free..... a $100 bike if it doesn't.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 05, 2012, 10:38:29 AM
New Tank = $200
New Gauges = $200
New Rear Brake system = $75
New Paint = $100 + lots of labor
Does not include issues you don't know about.
Something to think about...
New tank = not important until it starts leaking
Gauges = Thanks for the price there. I'm gonna start with the tach cause I can do that easy (if it all hooks up like a truck)
Paint = Gonna probably spray it myself. It's a under 900 dollar bike, there's no need to drop lots of money on the paint. I'm thinking about painting the tank and the plastic by the seat in black, leaving the frame purple (I do like purple...) and I don't know about the wheels yet.
I'm feeling a lot more comfortable about this whole deal, especially since the main thing I was worried about (back brake) isn't too expensive of a repair. I won't be riding the bike right away as I still need to take the MSF thing for my license, and find a leather jacket. I have a helmet already thankfully. It'll probably be 2 weeks after purchase until I'd be riding on the streets.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/380237_4062117753578_83950802_n.jpg)
So I bought her, brought her home, rode her a bit. Rides extremely nice, nice power. Front brake isn't too grabby but it's gonna be fixed regardless. Here's Purple Haze and Fiona! Oh, and the final purchase price was $740.
:woohoo: AWESOME! :woohoo:
Congrats!
Now its time to get down to work to get her road worthy. Aside from the cosmetic fixes/changes/upgrades you will want to do quickly, resist and put your money toward mechanical issues first. Also, if you do not know other than by the POs word when the last time any item of general maintenance was done, do it anyway. General maintenance things like oil changes are inexpensive compared to most work on your bike, and your bike will like it anyway... besides, the potential cost if you don't can easily mean a new motor (which is more than what you paid for the bike). Check out the maintenance pages on the gstwins wiki site (link below), there is a schedule that shows what needs to be done after certain amount of time/age/miles. Pick all of them that you think you can handle wrenching yourself and get them done before you spend much more time out on the bike, you'll be glad you did. Doing these things will help you notice more things on your bike such as potential or existing problems you were not previously aware of. One tip if you are a first timer at wrenching on a bike: Do one mechanical maintenance task at a time. That way, if you do happen to make a mistake somewhere, you know exactly which procedure made things go wrong, and its much easier to troubleshoot/correct one thing rather than a list of 3 or 4 different things you tried to do at one time.
Have fun!
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.Maintenance (http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.Maintenance)
- Bboy
Dang, this site just has everything, doesn't it? Here's what I think it needs right now to be road worthy, but I'll be doing all the maintenence first
Oil Change
Get the rear brake working
Put turn signals back on (Have them, just not connected)
Get a speedometer (the bike still has the factory plug ins on by the bars, and I like the factory gauges, any idea what those cost?)
A decent set of gauges can be hard to get for $100, and can go upwards of $200.
- Bboy
There are some parts whores on here that may have some of the parts you need. Congrats on the bike!! Like everyone else has said...get the maintenance up to date then start tinkering! :thumb:
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on June 07, 2012, 08:01:25 AM
Dang, this site just has everything, doesn't it? Here's what I think it needs right now to be road worthy, but I'll be doing all the maintenence first
Oil Change
Get the rear brake working
Put turn signals back on (Have them, just not connected)
Get a speedometer (the bike still has the factory plug ins on by the bars, and I like the factory gauges, any idea what those cost?)
Yes it does. We've all been there, that's for sure. If there's a problem, someone has run into it most likely already.
Bled the rear brake today. There was a tiny air bubble in there. It works perfect now!
What color should the fluid be? Mine is yellow-orange in the back. Haven't look at the front yet
The GS I just finished restoring had frozen pistons in the front caliper.
It was actually fairly easy to overhaul once off the bike.
I wouldn't replace the break system unless you're talking about replacing
just the master cylinder because it has problems.
Caliper and hose problems are pretty doggone easy to fix..
TJ
Quote from: speedfreek on June 08, 2012, 04:49:56 PM
The GS I just finished restoring had frozen pistons in the front caliper.
It was actually fairly easy to overhaul once off the bike.
I wouldn't replace the break system unless you're talking about replacing
just the master cylinder because it has problems.
Caliper and hose problems are pretty doggone easy to fix..
TJ
I don't need to worry about it any more, I bled the back brake today and it works flawlessly now. There was a small bubble in the line right at the caliper so it couldn't engage fully. Now I just wonder if yellow orange is a proper brake fluid color!
ATE super blue and you'll never have to change it again O0
TJ
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on June 08, 2012, 05:03:45 PM
I don't need to worry about it any more, I bled the back brake today and it works flawlessly now. There was a small bubble in the line right at the caliper so it couldn't engage fully. Now I just wonder if yellow orange is a proper brake fluid color!
Getting into orange color or darker is time to replace the fluid. It should be done every two years regardless, and I would guess your bike is way overdue. It is a simple procedure. Check out BaltimoreGS' video linked below, it is a good one. Biggest caution tip when bleeding/replacing fluid with new: Do NOT let the resevoir empty or let air in the lines, its much easier to KEEP it out than to GET it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu8e2-qki38& (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu8e2-qki38&)
- Bboy
Thanks for the answer to my question :thumb: Seems like everyone is so caught up in what to use in it they skimmed over if it was needing replaced lol
I've look at that how-to, and it does appear to be pretty straight forward. I've always dreaded bleeding the brakes on my truck, but I'm not afraid of it on the bike. Especially after yesterday!