Okay, I'm doing an F to E project... not cause i like the E style, but basically 'cause I want a working bike. sigh ....
(I also need to replace a bent fork, and straighten a footpeg .sigh)
Here's a small start. I bought some $10, 10mm Emgo replacement mirrors.
(hurray that the 'F' models still come with the "useless" handlebar stubs for direct-attach mirrors on them!)
(http://i47.tinypic.com/280sal2.jpg)
waitaminit... I have the mirrors on backwards. sigh.
Not entirely my fault. They came rotated the wrong way.
(http://i50.tinypic.com/1zcd7ol.jpg)
If you look carefully above the handlebars, and tune out the black hosepipe in the background... you can see the two pointy bits for the subframe for the old cowl, poking up.
Note that the handlebars are straight.
But the subframe, aint.
(the "left" bit, is just above the speedo. The "right" bit.. is above the rightside brake fluid reservoir?!?!!)
The right fork is also bent. Will be replacing it, along with the headlight. which is currently not present in any form. boo.
------ Running total of tools bought on this project -----
"breaker bar" type long thingie, on sale, $9
new socket set, deep, goes up to #19, $15
(Need #19 for wheel "castle nut", plus fork tube topper)
screw removal tool, $9
100-pak of nitrile gloves, $9
1 bent wire coathanger, to pull spring out of other fork, without upending it: on-hand material ;)
Hate to say it - to me your bars look bent. Right is bent down.
Isn't the headlight in the box I'm sending you? Along with a right fork?
Quote from: adidasguy on June 13, 2012, 03:05:36 PM
Hate to say it - to me your bars look bent. Right is bent down.
Isn't the headlight in the box I'm sending you? Along with a right fork?
huh. the pic does make the handlebars look bent. But surprisingly, they arent.
Which is why i was so.... "surprised" (@#$%$!!!) that the fork got bent :mad:
yes I hope the headlight, etc is in the box. but it's in transit. not "present". at the moment :)
parts have arrived. takedown has commenced :-}
Removing the wheel wasnt so bad as I feared.
(although putting it back ON, may be challenging. I had to kind of squeeeeze it out from under the mudguard)
I was confused about instructions there. Key part of understanding for me was:
Bike stays on the centerstand the whole time. You need 2x4's under the front(engine), because normally the weight is slightly forward, resting on the wheel. So when you take the wheel out, it needs to rest on something else! :)
I'll say one thing: removing the fork tubes is a PAIN IN THE @#$#!.
Some articles say all you have to do is just loosen the clamps and twist, to work it out.
It was not nearly that easy to get them out of the top bits for me.
I was tempted to put lots of lubrication on it, but was worried about how that would affect things after I want to put them back TOGETHER, and want them to stick more :-}
Not to mention, if you do that, then the tubes become more difficult to grip!
I thought that it would just be the bent fork. But no, the "good" one had problems too.
I ended up whacking them from the top, with some double-hammer action.
A wooden hammer, wood side down, on the top of the fork tube. Then tapping on the top of the hammer, with another one.
I wasnt very gentle with the bent one. It survived pretty well. So I ended up doing the same thing with the second one. albeit more cautiously.
Getting it out of the top one was still a major pain, but getting it out of the bottom clamp, was more of a twist-possible action.
Now, onto removing the "good" fork, and draining it for oil replacement.
Since I have a city provided oil drainer thingie, for this one, I decided to keep it closed, until I had it over the drain thing, and then unscrew it.
Upside down.
(Yes, I did loosen the caps while they were in the bike, first)
This was a poor choice. I should have unscrewed it while it was vertical :-}
It had a mini 'sposion. Good thing I was wearing disposable gloves. It all stayed in the pan. phew!
I just propped it up against the bike to drain. I guess, overnight?
(http://i49.tinypic.com/35kojno.jpg)
Now I get to brood about the fact that my wheel cover is cracked, and I have a sheared off bolt for the frame brace.
Will probably go get a screw removal tool.
Like the joke can of peanut brittle. Open it an Ka-Sproingy! Out shoot the springs!
Draining for a half hour or so is enough. remember to pump them when upside down to get all oil out.
My guess is the triple is out of alignment. Loosen the steering stem screw a little so you can line up the upper and lower triple when you reassemble. Those forks should have dropped out with the upper and lower bolts loosened.
TIP: Sometimes you need to remove the bolts then pry the clamp open a little with a screw driver wedged in the gap. they can tighten around the fork tube and not want to let go. Do that before putting them back in. They will slide in real easy.
Be very careful putting the caps back on. It is possible to cross thread the ends. Push down square with your palm. Turn a little. Try again and again until it catches. Then use your wrench to tighten them more.
Urrr. another annoyance: my wheel guard thingie has gotten torn up in a corner.
Tempting to get another one. but those thigns are expensive, if I recall. bah.
Superglue, I guess?
(http://i50.tinypic.com/es6auc.jpg)
So you're saying you need a front fender?
I got plenty if you can handle a rattle can.
Don't sweat that right now. Get your forks back on. Use the cracked frender until you get another one - either from me or somewhere else.
It's actually so badly cracked it's out of shape. So i needed to trim it down, etc before I can properly put it back on :)
I'm going slowly, because I'm also kiddie-watching. Maaaybe I'll get things mostly back together sometime today! :D
My hope is I'll have something ridable by tomorrow
Need to take a trip to the store for glue first
With the help of my children :D I have so far removed the forks, changed the fork oil on both, and resealed them up.
here is a brief photo of me, taken by my son Matthew, where I have both fork legs off, and am attempting to get one of the sheared bolts out.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/344fka9.jpg)
Ran out of time, more tomorrow
Am also going to be updating first post with running total of tools bought :embarrassed:
Annoyance: screw removal tool, does not come with directions.
And my power drill sux!! Keeps getting stuck on the direction I dont want it to turn in :(
One thing for sure - we're all glad you're fixing your bike rather than getting rid of it. We're here to support you.
If you want a fender, I have them. If you can't get the bolt out, I'll help you with a replacement fork bottom.
Yea! Pictures! You know how much we love pictures!
I know everyone says use 2x4's, but whenever I have to get both wheels off the ground I put a can of paint under the exhaust to hold it up. It's the perfect size.
Maybe it's just me, but I don't feel comfortable supporting the bike on top of the exhaust pipes. That's like pulling on your cylinder head via the exhaust header bolts with the weight of the front end of the bike.
You're not really supporting the bike. It is on the center stand. You're just tilting it because there is a little more weight on the front than the back. I'd be worried with the full weight on the exhaust, but not just a little to keep it tilted.
You can tilt it back in many ways. a block under the frame; a block pushing up between the pipes; a fat woman on the tail; a strap from the ceiling pulling up the front; and so forth.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 16, 2012, 08:15:10 PM
If you can't get the bolt out, I'll help you with a replacement fork bottom.
Possibly. But not for quite a while.
My problem is: It's now officially a challenge.
There's a great quote from something that I sadly cant remember the name of, but the quote goes something like this:
Want a sure-fire way to achieve the impossible? Just tell an engineer "It can't be done".
As I mentioned above somewhere, the screw extractor thingie I bought, did not come with instructions. But
this page (http://homerepair.about.com/od/interiorhomerepair/ss/screw_extractor_5.htm) seems to indicate it should be used pretty much as I thought.
I'm just a bit discouraged how slowly my stupid drill is taking, to make even the slightest dent in the broken off bolt so far. I'll have to spend some "quality time" on it tomorrow.
GAAAAA this was a pain in the bit to remove. umm. butt. whatever :-/
First of all, I find out that the screw remover "kit" thing.. was only the drill bits n things. it didnt come with the actual tool to HOLD the freaking removal thingie. What the heck?!!!?
And no directions, as I mentioned. But I find some general ones, and try to do the traditional, "drill down into the hole, to prepare a space to whack the actual reverse-removal thingie".
But... the mud splash thingie got in the way. And it does not rotate!!
So then I tried the dremmel trick, to attempt to put a slot in the top, and use a flathead.
Too soft! didnt work properly.
Then I decided, the heck with it, the bottom is open.. drill from the other side!
So I did.
Took a freaking long time. apparrently too soft to hold a flathead slot, but too hard to drill through easily.
and I broke one drillbit. luckily i happened to have another metal-rated one around.
Attempted to shove the removal tool in the top... but it wouldnt stick right, because of the mess I'd made!
:mad:
:technical:
but, finally, a ray of hope. I noticed that the slot I'd etched in, had TURNED!
And note that, when you drill from the BOTTOM... it turns in the CORRECT direction!
So I decided, what the heck, I'd try it from the bottom. And made some progress.
Even though the "removal" tool is technically designed to turn it the OTHER way, and I was turning it clockwise ! :D
(http://i50.tinypic.com/66jiud.jpg)
So kept at it.
Here's the "victory" pic, when I finally got the WHOLE #@$! thing out. And you see the hacky wrench job I had to attach, turn 1/4 turn, then take off and re-attach.
This has been a loong. effort.
Just for ONE SCREW!! Arrg.
But.. victory. I feel vindicated :)
(http://i49.tinypic.com/s43yom.jpg)
I had to whack the top a bit, to line up the top and bottom holes of the fork.
but a quick question before I tighten things up:
Do the handlebar wires,etc. go THROUGH the forks, or not (ie: they stay on the tank side of the forks)?
For an 'E' style model, I guess I should remind folks.
Eh, I shoved it in middle. fingers crossed :-/
New update:
(http://i49.tinypic.com/24o3iom.jpg)
Hurray for having a proper fork brace on, with ALL FOUR bolts in it!
(I think I didnt even have that on the first day I bought it 2nd hand. Grrr.. bozos sold me a story on that one)
It was tough to get the fork tubes back up, even after the straightening. One side went in kindasorta easy, but one was still very difficult.
I had to resort to the "whack with a hammer, with 2x4 as cushion". but this time form the bottom. with the springs absorbing the shock.
(and a kid sitting on the bike for counter-weight;)
happily, mission accomplished so far :woohoo:
But still so far to go... still needs wheel, and headlight, and handlebars reattached...
Ride your bike to work day tomorrow! I gotta move it!!
I don't see the headlight brackets there.
So.....
The way to get them on is to remove the top triple. Its the 2 bolts on teh top triple and the steering stem bolt. Take that off then slide the headlight brackets on. Then put the top triple back on. (Don't feel bad - I forgot them on Phenix! That's how I got them on without completely removing the forks and front wheel.)
If the clamps on the fork tube are tight, pry them open a little with a large screw driver after you remove the bolts on the top triple.
NOTE: The speedo cable must be removed from the bracket on the outside of the fork. It has to be routed inside between the forks due to the headlight bracket.
Watch the wires so they do not get caught in the steering column - especially the stop just above the lower triple.
These should show a little how things go...
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC02217.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0106.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0108.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0109.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0107.jpg)
Quote from: adidasguy on June 17, 2012, 09:57:39 PM
I don't see the headlight brackets there.
eh.. they;re there. they just dont show up with "black on black" :)
Thanks for the pics though!!
Quote from: adidasguy on June 17, 2012, 09:57:39 PM
So.....
The way to get them on is to remove the top triple. Its the 2 bolts on teh top triple and the steering stem bolt.
I... dont have a nice wrench to take off the top triple.
Which made realigning things... difficult.
I ended up doing a few padded whacks at the top, with the tubes "almost in", until the holes lined up :-/
Quote from: adidasguy on June 17, 2012, 09:57:39 PM
NOTE: The speedo cable must be removed from the bracket on the outside of the fork. It has to be routed inside between the forks due to the headlight bracket.
huh.
erm.. I "made it fit" somehow. dont remember any more :D
More to come in a min..
So... some tips I found, with my work, subproject "replace fork oil, the 'proper' way" (fully removing forks and drain them):
1. (it may have been mentioned somewhere else, but)
When doing it "by the book", putting in fresh fork oil after having removed springs:
It's dark down there! So, it can be nifty to take a brightly color straw, and cut half-way across it, at the height you want to leave the oil at.
You can then bend the straw over the rim, and it is easy to put it in and out to see if it dimple the surface of the oil.
2. When putting on headlight+side thingies, to the fork-tube attached holders:
It's much much easier to take the front light off, and assemble things with just the back-endof the lamp.
you can then keep the two side bolts loose, while you adjust the four main ones.
I had a tough time getting things to line up right, until I did this.
(http://i47.tinypic.com/o6iouh.jpg)
Wow, it's a tight fit!
3. When you are doing an "F to E" conversion...
PUT THE INDICATORS ON BEFORE THE LIGHT!
(yes, I had to take down the lamp, to remove it, so I could put the indicators on... sigh... cant get at the nut holding the indicator on otherwise)
Phew. Done for the night, but not done with the project.
Here's a piccy for ya.
Sad things:
1. Huh, looks like one side of my handlebars is bent down. Guess I need to fix that :embarrassed:
2. FRAME DAMAGE.
My turning lock for my forks... is still off. it turns more (too far) to the right, than to the left :(
The thing that messed up the alignment of the subframe for the cowl..must have twisted that whole.. erm.. whaddyamacallit.. to the right :cry:
GOOD news is.. electrics check out (indicators and lamp)
And, I didnt "waste" my efforts.The right fork tube really was still bent. So I definitely improved it.
Plus my fork oil was dirty black. So that was a good thing to fix ;)
And wheel guard(mud flap whatever) went on waaay easier than it came off.
I think only thing left to do tomorrow morning, is put on the wheel, and then, God willing, I will be able to ride (safely? pray) into work tomorrow, for bike-to-work day. If I pull this off, it will be really really wierd riding without windshield for the first time.
I tested sliding the wheel axle thingie through. It went through really clean. So, yay new fork braces and parallel forks!
(http://i48.tinypic.com/2q31a3c.jpg)
(aheh.. the passphrase for this tinypic upload was, "easy as cake". uhhh..yeahNO :D )
Weeelll...
the speedometer "drive" sticks out a little.
But I think thats normal?
(http://i50.tinypic.com/s67qr5.jpg)
the spacer sticks out a little on the other side too. But when I compared how it looked on the OLD fork, with the spacer flush on the inside.. it seemed to be sticking out about the same amount?
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2l9tzmh.jpg)
So the only thing that bothers me now, is this:
I seem to be standing directly "in front" of where the fork tubes are. and the fender is pointing at me.
But the wheel is off to the side. and may or may not be pointing at an angle to the side slightly.
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2wco00l.jpg)
But there's no wobble when I spin the front wheel (even though the brakes rub. but they did that to start with)
Soooo.. . I guess I'll head off to work, and keep at @40mph, see how it goes.
Don't base anything on the fender. You fender was bent and cracked. The fender can be repositioned - the bolt holes have a little room for movement (You line up the fender with the wheel - not the other way around.)
Look at the forks from the side. They should be in-line.
You can shove that spacer back in. It should be flush on each side of the fork.
Speedo side looks OK.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 18, 2012, 11:54:17 AM
You can shove that spacer back in. It should be flush on each side of the fork.
Err.. you might want to check that against a "new" rightside fork.
The spacer is wider than that section of the fork :D
Quote from: Phil B on June 17, 2012, 11:01:17 PM
I tested sliding the wheel axle thingie through. It went through really clean. So, yay new fork braces and parallel forks!
Well.. at ONE time, it slid clean through.
But when I tried it later, it did not.
When i was PUTTING ON THE WHEEL.
The bolt didnt line up.
Silly me, I decided, "eh, just push the fork forward, get the bolt through,and everything will sort itself out".
WRONG. Forcing it was a bad, bad mistake.
It turns out that, after reassembly, the wheel really IS "pointing to the right".
And that's because.... (bad explanation/guess here...)
I had to pull the bottom of the rightside fork "forward" to get the wheel axle through. It was improperly behind its place. turns out that's because the TOP part, is improperly forward. :icon_sad:
This means, while the fork tubes seem to be left/right parallel, they are not forward/back parallel.
Annoying thing is, as I mentioned way earlier, it was beautifully clean and lined up when I tried it without the wheel on the axle. I thought it was the weight of the wheel messing things up.
Guess not.
Hmmm.. I think "clean" was before I put on fork brace.
But.. but.. i TRIED loosening the screws on the fork brace. it didnt help.
WAITAMINIT.. @#$@ fender was not on when I tried it either.
Is that it?
Or do I erally have to somehow find a way to loosen the top centerbolt thingie?
What the heck IS that anyways, a metric 22 or something? !
uuugghh... this is not looking good :(
As long as flush inside you're OK.
I'll compare new and old forks and the spacers when I get home.
Thinking about it, that spacer would allow the fork to be where it wants to be. If it were fixed like the left side, any variation in the distance between the forks would not be accommodated. That is, the spacer being able to be moved in and out allows for a variation of the distance between the forks, so you can tighten the axle and not put stress on a fork. You tighten down everything else and last you would tighten the bolt around that spacer.
So loosen the spacer bolt. Pry a screwdriver in the gap at the bottom of the fork so the spacer can freely move. Let things settle in where they want to be. Then where ever that spacer ends up, tighten things down.
OK. The forks will be parallel to each other - perfectly in line when viewed from the side. One can not be "in front" of the other unless they are not parallel.
Do not use the handle bars or the fender as your guide for aligning everything. The bars are bent. The fender is twisted.
Base it on the triple in relation to the bike. Basically, if the forks are parallel and in-line then the forks and the triple are fine.
You tighten up the fender and fork brace when the forks are where they should be. You position the fender to look good. The fender is not a guide to how the wheel should go on.
The handlebars will be correct if the triples and forks are in-line. Bent bars should not be used as a guide to how the forks go. You will only need to loosen the top plate and steering stem if the upper and lower triple are not aligned with each other. If the forks are in-line and parallel, then the triples are fine.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 18, 2012, 12:07:25 PM
Thinking about it, that spacer would allow the fork to be where it wants to be. If it were fixed like the left side, any variation in the distance between the forks would not be accommodated. That is, the spacer being able to be moved in and out allows for a variation of the distance between the forks, so you can tighten the axle and not put stress on a fork. You tighten down everything else and last you would tighten the bolt around that spacer.
And that indeed is the instructions in the manual. Tighten that last.
Wondered why that was. now I know :)
but I dont have left-right problems. I have forward/backproblems.
Could still use suggestions on best way to loosen and properly align that junk.
Erm....
When I have the axle through the wheel, and just the left fork... the top thingie (top plate?) and the wheel direction, seem to be in line.
There's just the "small problem" that the right fork aint lined up, at that point.
If I adjusted the top steering bolt, so I can rotate the top plate a bit... it seems like that is then going to take the left side OUT of alignment, to fix the right side?
Makes me think like the actual bottom tripple clamp (or would it be the top) has maybe gotten bent towards the main frame?
ie: Just like the stupid cowl subframe bracket got bent "to the right", maybe the clamp thingie got bent "to the right" as well? In which case, I'm toast?
Anything I can observe, to confirm or deny this nasty possibility? :(
(Trying to avoid going out to the tool store, Yet Again, and buying Yet Another tool [22mm socket] if it's going to be useless anyway)
I have plenty of triples if you want a replacement. They have good bearings so you won't need to attempt that (worst bearings to try to replace - so I just use a replacement).
The lower of a used triple is handy to have around for holding forks while you work on them.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 18, 2012, 02:53:06 PM
I have plenty of triples if you want a replacement. They have good bearings so you won't need to attempt that (worst bearings to try to replace - so I just use a replacement).
The lower of a used triple is handy to have around for holding forks while you work on them.
I dunno. would be nice to have a more definitive method of determining, "yes, this is IT, this is what you need to replace and then it's all good".
I dont wanna waste shipping costs, and time, if it isnt the triple clamp. or if I can usefully adjust the one I have.
btw, here's some pics zoomed in of forkie issues.
First, a leading edge "hey yup they arent aligned" comparison pic.
You can just barely see the edge of the right tube, aka "behind" one, to the left of the foreground one.
(http://i47.tinypic.com/14wcug.jpg)
and now a "Hmm. yeah axle alighnment would be a good thing" pic.
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2rop72g.jpg)
Side comment: I was cheating previously, and just keeping the bike "on the center stand", but a little bit of weight on the front.
This meant that the left side fork was compressed a little when I was trying things, I guess.
I managed to raise it up so wheel is truly off the ground. Helped a little.. but not enough, as the pic above shows
This comes to mind: could the left fork be bent? The right one was, and perhaps the left one has a slight bend? That would be a bend so slight you couldn't easily be detected. Seeing maybe a half inch difference in the bottom ends, that isn't much to look for. Definitely not anything obvious.
I can't think of a reliable way to check short of pulling it out. That bend would be hard to measure on the bike with so many parts in the way.
If you took it out and placed it on a table, watch it as you rotate the tube. It should stay the same distance off the table. If it goes up and down as you rotate it, then it's bent.
PS: by that I mean hold the bottom fixed. Rotate the upper tube. if bent, you will see the top end go up, down, left and right.
If bent, it is very slight. It could be bent in any direction. as you did have the fork removed, it is unlikely you put the fork back in exactly the same. Few people could since there are no markings on the top tube. It doesn't make any difference if it is straight. If bent, the bottom of the fork could end up going in any direction.
I would re-check the one I sent in the unlikely event it had a bend that went undetected by me or the shop I got it from.
If one of them has any kind of bend, I'll send you one and I'd put a lower triple in just to insure your triple is straight. It never hurts to be sure.
I think we have an official diagnosis now.
I didnt bother to check the one you sent me. I did, however, check my existing left-side one.
Looks clean.
When it came time to reinsert, with all the clamps loose... it slides up nice and smooth.
On the RIGHT side, however:
once I got it out of the top clamp, it slid okay inside the bottom one. But when I got it up to the top again... it was off the target.
If one side is on-target, and one side is off... seems to indicate a permenant issue. But, lets double check, to eliminate wierdness with top stuff...
I put them both in "just the bottom clamp", evened up the length, and compared.
yup. still not parallel.
So, seems like the bottom "triple" has somehow been twisted.
This is depressing.
Even if I did replace that thing, ... the frame is still dinged up, to the point where the turn lock is messed up, as I mentioned.
Additionally, the tank looks a mess, with its really bad dents. and the footpeg, and... and...
If things were at "pre-season" prices, I'd definitely just buy a "new" one instead.
On the one hand, I feel like I've gained some knowlege out of all this, so it's not a TOTAL loss.
But still... really frustrating :(
Anyone know of a "good condition" gs500 (year 2000 or newer), $2000 or under, within 500 miles of los angeles? :embarassed:
I really don't mean to be mean at all, but the constant quoting of things that don't need it is getting distracting.
I'll send you a lower triple if that will help. I have plenty of them. Say the work and I'll send it out tomorrow.
I suppose if the fork and frame were bent, it is possible the triple was also damaged.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 18, 2012, 07:48:25 PM
I'll send you a lower triple if that will help. I have plenty of them. Say the work and I'll send it out tomorrow.
I suppose if the fork and frame were bent, it is possible the triple was also damaged.
Well, I guess it depends on how fiddly it is to install the thing. No weird tools required? :)
No, "this should be done by a proper shop or else the bike wont be [balanced/....?] properly" ?
Not hard. Take off steering stem bolt. Then take off triple top nut (like the ones on a bicycle). While it requires a special tool, I gently used large pliers. You may need to take off the top plate (2 bolts) to get easy access to the stem nut.
Then the triple drops out. Slide new one up. Put on top bearing, dust cap then the stem nut. Tighten snug - turn things to be sure it is not too tight. More problems from being too tight (hard to steer0 than too lose (noisy steering stem). Since the weight is down on the lower triple, if the top is lose it is not a serious issue.
Stick the forks through the lower and turn the top so they line up. Now finish tightening everything down.
remember: steering nut should not be too tight.
The top chrome bolt will be tight.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 18, 2012, 09:16:02 PM
Not hard. Take off steering stem bolt. Then take off triple top nut (like the ones on a bicycle). While it requires a special tool, I gently used large pliers. You may need to take off the top plate (2 bolts) to get easy access to the stem nut.
Urrrr.. how large?
I dont particularly have "large pliers".
I have a bunch of small needlenose ones, many nails and screws of assorted sizes (randomly on a shelf :) ) assorted pipe wrenches and adjustable wrenches, and possibly other random stuff.
Oddly, I didnt see any mention of a special tool (or much mention of the nut, even) in the haynes manual.
There is a steering stem bolt wrench. Same as used on bicycles. You can use a hammer and a screw driver, wrench, strong needle nose pliers (yes - go ahead guys and yell at me for this hillbilly method. But when in a pinch, make do without buying special tools for one time use.)
You can take things apart while the new one is on its way. Take photos each step and pay attention to the order things go. It isn't really that difficult. Just take your time and study the parts as you work on them.
And I know people will yell - but the bearings on what I am sending are good. You can get by with just swapping them out since the bearings will be in excellent condition. Oh, have good waterproof bearing grease (not the black stuff, I think it is green or red). I can fill a cup with some if you want.
OK - got an excellent one. Use your existing top bearing. There will be a 35mm film can with grease.
Is that what the haynes refers to as,
"unscrew the adjuster nut using a suitable C-spanner"?
Funny.. pictures of a "c-spanner", remind me a whole lot, of the suspension adjuster tool in the gs500 toolkit.
Which I have.
coincidink?
Actually, different size. But similar tool.
Triple in the mail. With a container of good grease.
Keep us posted. We want to see you riding really soon.
Adidasguy to the rescue!
Quote from: adidasguy on June 17, 2012, 09:57:39 PM
I don't see the headlight brackets there.
So.....
The way to get them on is to remove the top triple. Its the 2 bolts on teh top triple and the steering stem bolt. Take that off then slide the headlight brackets on. Then put the top triple back on. (Don't feel bad - I forgot them on Phenix! That's how I got them on without completely removing the forks and front wheel.)
If the clamps on the fork tube are tight, pry them open a little with a large screw driver after you remove the bolts on the top triple.
NOTE: The speedo cable must be removed from the bracket on the outside of the fork. It has to be routed inside between the forks due to the headlight bracket.
Watch the wires so they do not get caught in the steering column - especially the stop just above the lower triple.
These should show a little how things go...
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC02217.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0106.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0108.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0109.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500%20Bike%20Build/Phenix_DSCF0107.jpg)
What type is the large bolt you used to attach the headlight to those brackets?
I recall I used a bolt for the foot peg brackets.
That headlight from Germany had threaded holes.
Ones without threaded holes that have a nylon bushing and require a nut inside (and a nut in the rider's seat) the foot peg bolt is not long enough.
Quote from: adidasguy on June 19, 2012, 05:56:51 PM
I recall I used a bolt for the foot peg brackets.
That headlight from Germany had threaded holes.
Ones without threaded holes that have a nylon bushing and require a nut inside (and a nut in the rider's seat) the foot peg bolt is not long enough.
Crap, my headlight came with no hardware and I believe I need bushings.
Update: Thanks to the wonder-worker of seattle, I have a new triple lower clamp.
I get home late, so ... "I'll just check out how the forks sit in it".
....
....
well okay then. that was a good 2 hours spent. tomorrow I can put on the wheel and light. again :->
1/2 hour was spent scrounging around neighbours to borrow a 22 metric. Which no-one had. grr.
But turns out a 7/8th works just as well. Important!
btw... "The gs toolkit" actually has a #22 wrenchy thing.
Too bad it's USELESS unless you manage to remove the entire clamp, etc, etc. because the tank doesnt give you room to turn it otherwise :p
Mid process piccies:
(you probably cant see.. but this is to show off that the durn bar turn stop, has been whacked to the left :( )
(https://webapi.bumpserver.com/v1/data/69d13be1-779c-49cc-8c92-1e5782d11d70)
Here's an unfortunately blurry pic of what it looks like right after you take off that "steering bolt", then lift up the entire handlebar/topclamp/etc stuff. Turns out I didnt have to remove the handlebars after all. Grr.
(although it may have helped a bit)
(https://webapi.bumpserver.com/v1/data/67588490-8991-43b9-b2fe-01c0cb849ea3)
Aaand, here's that stuff hanging down the front. but the handlebars resting on the tank, to take the stress off the wires n attachments.
(https://webapi.bumpserver.com/v1/data/8bae1205-ab35-4f3c-b4c5-eb4cc32ab471)
Slightly bad news... seems like I've nicked the clutch cable so the rubber cover has been scraped off in one place :( but I think the metal underneath is okay. looks okay. Still a metal spiral cover around the "real" cable, seems like.
Was too tired to take more photos at end.
Tomorrow, hopefully I'll have a good pic of a once-more running bike :)
Just lining it up, it seems like it still might be SLIGHTLY slightly off... (probably due to fact that I tightened stem bolt with upper clamp tightened, but not lower clamp) but hopefully, not noticable like it was before.
"Wheel" see tomorrow!
Good progress!
We all learn what we "didn't have to remove" anytime we look back on what we just did.
Loosen up things, let the forks and triples settle in where they should be then tighten things up again.
Sounds like you'll be on the road again tomorrow.
:cheers:
I'M going out for a TEST RIDE! :D
And here she is! Wheel actually lined up with the fender, hurrah.
(https://webapi.bumpserver.com/v1/data/70171842-54f5-429b-9f2a-b955624c1c26)
and here is the battlefield of fallen soldiers:
(https://webapi.bumpserver.com/v1/data/cf326a8c-6f81-4046-bfb3-9a2d70209c2f)
gadZOOKS this took me a long time. More of them were actually "buried" already.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :icon_lol: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Thanks :)
It's very very good to be back on a bike again.
Nicking the plastic on the cable is OK. Its the insides that are important and that is hard to damage. Someday in the future that can be replaced for cosmetic reasons. Until then, just insure your cables and stuff is all lubed up and you will be fine.
Now go ride and have fun!
You did a fantastic job!
(And you learned a lot - especially that a lot of this stuff is not that hard - once you've done it!)
Yeah.. the part I dislike the most, is the messiness. Once I decided to sacrifice a T shirt, and disposable gloves, its not bad though
I got a pair of nitrile covered work gloves from Home Depot for $4. Much more environmentally friendly than disposables, and much more durable and protective, I suggest when you run out you get a pair. All you have to do is throw them in the washing machine (or a bucket of hot soapy water) and then let them dry and they are good to go for the next round.
I actually looked for a good non-disposable pair, at a good "tool" place, where I got my other stuff.
All the "mechanic's gloves" they had, did not actually look very oil resistant. Odd.
I found a cheap pair of impervious gloves somewhere else, but it was an idiotic "one size (definitely does NOT) fits all". The only ones available.
I use that when I have something quick, dirty and easy. But they're just too clumsy for any technical work. I have Small/medium ish hands, and they are XL or something annoying. Arrg!
Did the new triple fix your steering lock issue as well? I've got a similar issue and am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the triple.
Quote from: AC2B on July 02, 2012, 10:47:21 AM
Did the new triple fix your steering lock issue as well? I've got a similar issue and am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the triple.
ah. erm.. good news, and bad news. VERY bad news.
yes, it improved it. a little.
However,the problem with the steering lock, is that the tube-thingie that holds the triple clamp?
That's the main orientation for the steering lock. And thats part of the *frame*.
aint no fixing that.
well, actually, I tried a few whacks anyway ;) but "fixing" that, is just as likely to put the vertical alightment of the thing out.
I THINK that the thing is somewhat cleanly kinda rolled to the side, but its still mostly vertical.
Hmm... now that I think about it.. DANGIT! it couldnt possibly be completely clean. If it's "over a bit", then kinda by definition, it has to have moved my alignment off a bit.
but at least I think it's only parallel to the way its supposed to be, It's not actually twisted so that my wheel is at an angle.
I think.
Guess that's another reason I should stay the heck off any canyon riding now.
Siggghhh..
It's very ridable. But I think that explains why it was not quite as clean when I was turning at a well-known corner near my house. Wheel seems to not quite stick as cleanly as I'm used to. THought it was my suspension changes. But now that I've "talked" this out, it's probably the frame.
#@$@#$!!