holy crap...carbs are so tedious!!!!
that being said i need the expert advise from some of you carb people!!!
ok so i rebuild my carbs, i have the multi position needle and need to know where the clip needs to be and how many turns out i need to be on the mixture screw...im running uni pods as well as an after market exhaust(custom made with less baffling, alittle more free flowing than stock) but not too much!
also the mixture screw- by turns, are we talking a full rotation of a screw as in when a certain outside point of the screw head returns to the same spot or when the flat head facing up and down returns up and down again???
You bet carbs are tedious and tricky, and since you're using a custom exhaust it may be unbearable, but worth it in the long run. if I understand your question:
"also the mixture screw- by turns, are we talking a full rotation of a screw as in when a certain outside point of the screw head returns to the same spot or when the flat head facing up and down returns up and down again???"
"when the flat head facing up and down returns up and down again" is a half a turn or 180 degrees
"a full rotation of a screw as in when a certain outside point of the screw head returns to the same spot" is a full turn or 360 degrees
also you'll probably have to change the main jet, try the needle clip in the 2nd from the top groove and 2 turns out on the screw. remember to record your changes and read your plugs.
Check out the wiki:
wiki.gstwins.com/
While there isn't a LOT of info on Uni filters, they usually flow a little more air than a K&N. So you might need slightly richer jetting than a bike with K&N pods.
ok spokes100: i adjusted as u had described and what i got was that it would idle fine and rev fine as long as it wasnt under a load...it i switched to first gear and try to drive it would bog down and try to die if i didnt pull the clutch back in...i also pulled the plugs- they are both dark brown almost black after letting it warm up and all...i think this means its running rich, right???
Yes, that's rich! here's a page that should help: http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Rejetting
also if you're fairly certain you got your carbs clean and all the various washers and spacers in the right order on your needles you should be slightly lean not rich. the values I suggested were fairly conservative. as Rich said you usually have to richen the jetting for more free flowing air filters and exhaust if your jetting is stock now. your float level could be too high, your enrichment plungers (choke) could be not sealing and leaking fuel in engine. you could have lost an "o" ring on the mixture screws or some other place, the needles could be sticking up in the slides, anything that let's in too much gas. maybe your exhaust is actually more restrictive, maybe a piece inside it came loose and is plugging it up. also if your over saturate your foam filters with oil the gas mix may be OK but now you're not getting enough air. spark plugs that are any darker than a light tan are too rich on a four stroke. I'm probably missing something here, if it's not one of these obvious things please look through the other threads, someone else has surely had this problem.
here's a diagram that might help:
http://suzuki.gssuzuki.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=2103§ion=92723&year=1989&make=SUZUKI&category=Motorcycles&dc=3675&name=CARBURETOR
im sorry, ive mistaken...im running some type of off brand k&n pod filters...they are gray with the wire mesh around them. but im pretty sure the carbs are in pretty good order but i just cant get them tuned right??? right now the needles are on the 2nd slot from the top and the mixture screws are about 2.5 turns out...at this point its idling fine, if i blip the throttle it revs and dies back to idle adjustment but if i try to drive, the thing will bog and die...but if i get it to about 3500rpms it will take off and i can only use up to 3/4 throttle...at full throttle it tries to bog down...now with the 3/4 take off i got the bike to 70mph and everything rode great!!! im pretty tempted to sell the bike and get something newer:(
Quote from: spokes100 on June 18, 2012, 12:47:50 PM
here's a diagram that might help:
http://suzuki.gssuzuki.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=2103§ion=92723&year=1989&make=SUZUKI&category=Motorcycles&dc=3675&name=CARBURETOR
oh ive become very familar with this diagram...ive had the carbs apart several times...im not new to bikes or carbs, rebuilding wise...only getting these things adjusted...
Can you post a pic of your filters? If they are the Emgo ones, they are junk.
What size main jets are you using?
never liked the EMGO filters either, was this bike rejetted before you got it?
im pretty sure they are the emgo's but i didnt put them on there...they were from the PO which i also believe he did a rejet on the bike bc the brass plate was already off of the carbs
Since it is a 92, I am wondering if the mileage is up beyond 10,000. I am just wondering about the state of the valve adjustment. I found that these bikes really respond much better to carb adjustments when the valves are set to spec. Good Luck.
Quote from: cheetahman on June 19, 2012, 07:40:14 AM
Since it is a 92, I am wondering if the mileage is up beyond 10,000. I am just wondering about the state of the valve adjustment. I found that these bikes really respond much better to carb adjustments when the valves are set to spec. Good Luck.
the mileage is 21750...lol and im not really sure if the valves are to spec??? :dunno_black:
If you don't know, then its safe to assume they need done........badly.