2009 F model. 7,700 miles. Was adjusting the chain, and when I went to tighten the nut on the axle, it just stopped. Clearly, it was not tight enough since it freely spun when there was no wrench on the other side.
EDIT: Had no problems loosening the nut. Just when I went to tighten it...froze complely.
Started to back out the nut to inspect. It's on there so tight, that I can only loosen by using short bursts, or risk sripping it all to hell. I noticed that ever since the first time I tried adjusting the chain a year ago, something wasn't right about it, but always got it working.
Doubt anything happend at the factory in Spain, but not sure. I'll report back when I get the thing off. It's on there tight as sh!t, that's for sure. Not sure what the hell happened.
It's soaking in PB Blaster now, so I'll give it some time.
Thoughts?
Cross threaded the nut?
LMK if you need a new axle and nut.
If you were hand tightening and it stopped, I'd say you forgot a spacer and the nut was bottoming out on the bolt. But given how hard it is to get off, you probably cross-threaded it and will need a new axle/nut.
Just so we're on the same page here:
You're trying to back off the castle nut (with the holes for the cotter pin) and not the axle bolt (that runs all the way through and has a hex head on the brake side of the bike) right?
Melted to hell:
(http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii569/jestercinti/AxleNut.jpg)
And...
(http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii569/jestercinti/Axle.jpg)
Dizzledan, I never had a cotter pin or a castle nut on my model bike. The parts fiche shows that I do, but I never did. Bought it new. Strange. Spacers, washers, and bearings all look OK, so that's a relief. I just knew the first time I adjusted with the chain that someting was amiss. I guess this explains it.
Regardless, I need a new axle and nut. Mr. Adidas, I will send you a PM. I'm assuming that this is the same part for most model years.
newer bikes have a friction nut with that nylon insert (whatever they are called). Older bikes have castle nuts and a cotter pin.
Axles are interchangeable. They just went cheaper on the nut.
OK, I'll send you one. I have plenty of the castle nut/cotter pin type.
I had the same problem on my K9. It just seized during a routine chain adjustment. Luckily I was able to get it undone eventually. The problem is the built-in lock washer/shim on the inside of the nut. A small piece breaks off and gets embedded into the thread which then starts to chew itself to death. My damage was not too bad and I had access to good quality taps and dies to re-cut the standard threads. With lube on the threads it not been a further problem and the nut has not loosened itself. Good luck :technical:
Paul
Thanks prmas. I was thinking that might be the case when I was working on it.
Mr. Adidasguy is sending me a new axle and washer (the older castle nut with cotter pin) from his parts collection. I should be in business late next week.
So looks like its the bus for me next week to get to the office.
Just for the record since this seems to be trend... I have the 09 GS500F as well with 14,000 miles on her. I was amazed to find this posting of the same exact issue I just encountered this past weekend - the rear axel nut freezing up on me while loosening during chain adjustment. I would describe my experience no differently than the others who have already post before me. I have probably loosen that nut 3 or 4 other times in the past with no issues. Yet this last time, the nut loosened so slightly, then it happened... So tight I had to forget about saving the threads on the nut and axle... Now I was in "how the blank I'm I going to get this off mode". I finally extended my ratchet handle by inserting it into a piece of pipe (to give me more leverage), and just stripped the heck out of it until finally getting the nut off (I knew already the axle/nut would have to be replaced).
FYI- 2009 model rear axle part # 64711-01D30 supersedes 64711C01D30J000
Needing the parts quickly as to get back on the road riding, I ordered the OEM parts for my year bike. Does anyone know if the axle with cotter pin works with 2009 model? Strange they would change that design.
Cheers, Snake
Yes, all years of axles are interchangeable. Not completely sure why they would change the castelnut with cotter pin, but a few members have noted the change in other threads.
- Bboy
#5029
Snake: I see you're new here. You should be happy to know there are a few parts whores on this board (me included). Often you can get your parts here for a fraction of new and really fast. I mailed Jester a rear axle & nut on a Friday and he got it the following Monday for what - $20 or something like that?
With various parts whores around the country, it is good to have your location in your profile. There maybe someone in your area with just the part you need.
I took it that the reason some got nylocs (Euro) and some got split-pins (USA) was to do with the construction and use regs that apply for the country the bike is sold in :dunno_black:
The axlebolt thread is a metric fine, they are slightly stronger than course and will hold a slightly higher torque but they are also very susceptible to damage and stretch if overtightened.
#5032
Country as nothing to do with it. Most likely cutting a few cents from the cost and assembly time. Maybe the new axle or nut matches some other model and was done to reduce inventory.
We had castle nuts and cotter pins. Now we have nylocks.
Quote from: adidasguy on July 06, 2012, 02:52:19 PM
#5032
Country as nothing to do with it. Most likely cutting a few cents from the cost and assembly time. Maybe the new axle or nut matches some other model and was done to reduce inventory.
We had castle nuts and cotter pins. Now we have nylocks.
Very true Adidas. I used to work for a heavy duty truck manufacturer (They will remain nameless)....needless to say, everything was the cheapest that would do the job. If it broke, then they made money on parts.
500 miles on your castle nut axle, and no issues.
Personally I don't see why they would mess with a design that works. I prefer the cotter pin/castle nut configuration over the locking washer type...for obvious reasons.
Quote from: adidasguy on July 06, 2012, 02:52:19 PM
#5032
Country as nothing to do with it. Most likely cutting a few cents from the cost and assembly time.
Back in the early days Europe was getting nylocs and the USA was getting splitpins at the same time. The bikes came from the same factory at the same time. If cost was a factor wouldnt they all have had the cheaper option fitted?
Early SVs are the same, Euro gets nylocks, USA got split pins :dunno_black:
Adidasguy- thanks for the response. You are right about the timing with ordering parts. I will keep your suggestion in mind for the future. After ordering, here's my latest email note from the supplier... "We are writing to inform you that due to high demand the item(s) listed below in your order have been delayed from the manufacturer by 1-4 business days. We will ship your order when this item(s) arrives." so yes, now I am in "wait mode".
I would suggest a castle nut and pin.
Then use your torque wrench to put things together, with anti-seize. Remove and reassemble 4-5 times with a ratchet and compare the feel of correct torque (torque wrench) to your feel of the ratchet. Muscle memory!
Also, clean the threads with wd-40 and a stiff wire bbrush before removing the axle nut. ;)
I know it's been a long time since you guys have posted this topic, but I still can't seem to find my answer. Went to a local hardware store the other day looking to replace my stripped rear castle nut, and the guy wouldn't help me. Said the threads were too stripped to tell what I needed. After reading through forums (don't have an owners manual, as I recently bought a used Suzuki GS500F 2004 model), I think I've found the specs, but can someone tell me if this is the correct size I need?
Grade 8 M14x1.5 Castle Nut?
Thank you!
CaliJC
Go to the Suzuki dealer or PM Adidasguy. I got a new Axle and nut from Adidasguy, and I've been 5,000 trouble free miles since then.
Your nylon lock nuts arent supposed to be taken off and on and reused several times. They are meant to be used once and replaced thereafter. As already said, a castle nut and pin would be ideal
Sorry I can't help confirm your thread size. Mine is the older course thread with castle nut. The fine thread lock nut and axle on the new ones are prone to stripping. Your axle is probably also stripped. If you think the thread on your axle is still OK, take it to a hardware store and compare - see if any nut will thread on successfully.
All prior posts are suggesting you just replace both with the old style axle/castle nut.
Quote from: CaliJC on May 23, 2013, 11:17:29 AMbut can someone tell me if this is the correct size I need?
Grade 8 M14x1.5 Castle Nut?
Thank you!
CaliJC
Yes its the right thread.
The nut is 22m AF (across flats) You can use either a nylock or if the axlebolt has a hole through its diameter a castellated nut and splitpin.
However, its a fine thread so very prone to stripping and if the nut has gone chances are the axlebolt will have too.