I was wondering at what mileage did you first need to change your valve shims? I have an 2006 that just hit 7500mi. on the clock and have not checked the valves yet. The bike has been well take care of and oil changed every 1500 miles (don't think oil matters much where valve wear is concerned).
So,
If you've had the bike since new when did you FIRST need to CHANGE shims?
How may miles did you get out of the well oiled stock chain?
My mechanic said don't wast my time with it at 7500k. But, if it would make me feel better I could run some Royal Purple though it to clean the carbon from the valves. He said the carbon, not wear, would be the reason for the valves not being in spec this early in the game.
What say you?
Also, how would I tell if it's been jetted? I read somewhere here that jetted GS's have better take-off at lower RPM's (like under 4k). I don't have a problem with low RPM starts and it's smooth all the way to 7500K then it takes off up to redline.
Valve Clearance Schedule:
600 miles
4600 miles
8600 miles
then every 4000 miles after that.
Thanks, I did see that schedule in the manual. Being the third owner of the bike I don't know if it was ever even checked. What I really wanted to know is on average when do these bikes usually fall below spec for the FIRST time and need new shims. I planned to do a check this weekend and was on the fence if I should go ahead and get some shims now or wait.
Am I the only one that thinks it's a little bit of a PITA to have to check them every 4000 miles?
For new to me bike, check after purchase, then again after +1000K.
After that, 4K sounds about right. If they haven't moved at all (I log this when I do it), I'd probably double the service interval.
Whut? I have to take my bike apart again, to do a valve check? >:(
(I'm pushing 9,000 miles now)
I saw a vague reference somewhere, to "no you dont need to take the carbs off to check", but havent seen a writeup of that method yet. Anyone got a reference?
Quote from: pliskin on June 26, 2012, 06:57:08 AM
My mechanic said don't wast my time with it at 7500k. But, if it would make me feel better I could run some Royal Purple though it to clean the carbon from the valves. He said the carbon, not wear, would be the reason for the valves not being in spec this early in the game.
If the mechanic is offering to charge you less money, I say go with it :) But I'm curious what this "Royal Purple" is. I'm guessing basically the same as seafoam, or whatever?
I first checked them when it was getting a tad hard to start. Distance isn't important/applicable as every bike is different.
What I would do is check them so YOU know it has been done.
Michael
Quote from: Phil B on June 26, 2012, 07:59:50 AM
Whut? I have to take my bike apart again, to do a valve check? >:(
(I'm pushing 9,000 miles now)
Quote from: pliskin on June 26, 2012, 06:57:08 AM
If the mechanic is offering to charge you less money, I say go with it :) But I'm curious what this "Royal Purple" is. I'm guessing basically the same as seafoam, or whatever?
Yea, it's an pour in treatment like seafoam. My mechanic is in my family so it won't cost me anything :). I do computer work for him and he fixes my cars.
I changed my shims for the first time at 21,000 miles but I put it off for a long time.checking is easy, it's changing that can get annoying, especially if you don't have a collection of shims or an easy way to get them. So, you might as well check the, if you never have. If they are well within spec you can forget about them for a few thousand miles.
If your bike is hard to start, takes a long time to warm up, or dies at red lights and stop signs, then your valves are probably out of spec.
Checking valves is also a good winter or rainy day project.
EDIT: FWIW, my dealer Cycle Specialties in Fairfield told me to skip the initial check at 600 miles. Service manager said a bit overkill, and to wait until 4,000 mile service.
I just did my first change at 30 000
what are valve shims?
As stated several times above. Check them and log the specs...this way you will know the next time which ones are moving and you can keep track of it. Usually, hard cold starting is the MAIN indicator that your exhaust valves are getting tight and need to be adjusted.
On my 97 purchased new I checked valves at 600 miles and then about every 8k miles after that which was twice a year, was running 15-20k miles a year then. Changed first exhaust shim at about 40k miles. That exhaust valve that had run at a min clearance for the 1st 40k miles required constant shim changes after that and was down to a min 215 shim by 80k miles. The intake valves never required a shim change for the 80k miles.
My current 02 bought used with 4k miles on it got checked about once a year which was about every 10k miles, my annual milage has fallen off. Got a broken exhaust valve at about 21k miles caused by a tight bucket and repaired it. First shim change was at about 31k miles followed by another at 40k miles on same exhaust valve and it too had run it's 1st 30k miles on the tight side like the one on the 97 that required constant shim changes so I bumped my exhaust valve clearances to .003-.005" and went another 40-50k miles with no further changes. I'm at 95k miles now and will pass 100k miles by next spring with no further valve checks and still running mid size shims all around. Keep the exhausts a bit loose if you want long engine life.
Here's the whole record:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs.jpg
I checked mine right after I bought it. It had just over 4k on it and I needed to replace 2 out-of-spec shims. Since they are a tad pricey for the whole kit, I put it back together and ordered the two shims online... then took it apart again when the shims arrived. Once you do it, it's not that hard to take apart. I often think the hardest part is dealing with the gas tank. I soo wish it didn't have a shut-off valve on the bottom of the tank.
checked them around 16,000 when I got the bike. The bike was running like crap, probably the first valve adjustment the bike ever had.
Another thing I'll add is that carb adjustments are to be made AFTER valves are confirmed in-spec.
Ask me how I know this, and how many problems I chased before I figured out it was my valves.