the p/o installed a set of pro tek racing lowering dog bones. i would like to return the bike to factory height. do i need to support the rear of the bike on anything other than the center stand? and is this a one man job or should i have another set of hands around?
brasco
When I bought my bike it was lowered, I lifted it up to the higher setting on the existing dog bones. All I did was put the bike on the center stand and put a couple piece of pieces of 2x8 x 2-feet wood under the rear wheel to support the weight of the wheel when I removed the bolts on the dog bones. I was able to guide the bones to the new setting using my hand on the rear tire and slip the bolt back on. I didn't have to remove the dog bones all together, so perhaps it would have been more work had I done that. That being said, it was a piece of cake and took me less than 10 minutes.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=61091.msg706712#msg706712
thank you both. looks like i found my project for tomorrow.
brasco
Assuming they have been torqued up to the specified figure the linkage bolts are amongst the tightest on the bike! Get someone to sit on it and steady it while you crack them off. You dont want to see your bike take a tumble.
Quote from: sledge on July 10, 2012, 05:26:52 PM
Assuming they have been torqued up to the specified figure the linkage bolts are amongst the tightest on the bike! Get someone to sit on it and steady it while you crack them off. You dont want to see your bike take a tumble.
What he said. When I changed my shock, it was on VERY tight. Damn near toppled it over 3 times with all the leverage.
I've changed the rear shock and the links on my GS and those bolts are really tight but one must be aware of what they are doing working on a bike on the centerstand. Place your wrench so you are pulling in the direction of pulling the bike back onto the stand and not pulling it off the stand. You can pull the bike off the stand making a simple oil change if you have a very tight drain plug and aren't thinking about what you are doing. Personally, I'd rather not have someone around getting in the way and constantly interrupting when I work on the bike. :dunno_black:
so i attempted to change the dog bones today, but to no avail. i applied pb blaster several times, letting it soak for 10-15 minutes each application, tried heating it with a torch several times, i just sprayed some wd40 and will let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow...
any other suggestions or helpful hints...this thing is ON there
brasco
You need the longest breaker bar you can find and a good quality socket, one of these
(http://www-2.socketry.co.uk/sealey-ak7302-breaker-bar-750mm-12sq-00110099M.jpg)
And.......if someone doesnt sit on the bike when you crack them off there is risk of the bike going over.....its your call :thumb:
The worse thing you can do is to put a very long wrench on it and just pull on it to break it loose. You need an impact wrench if it's too tight. Put a box end wrench on it and hit the other end sharply with a hammer if you don't have a powered impact wrench. I started working in a garage 65 years ago before they had impact wrenches, we did it the old fashion way. :icon_lol:
Quote from: sledge on July 12, 2012, 04:17:57 AM
You need the longest breaker bar you can find and a good quality socket, one of these
(http://www-2.socketry.co.uk/sealey-ak7302-breaker-bar-750mm-12sq-00110099M.jpg)
And.......if someone doesnt sit on the bike when you crack them off there is risk of the bike going over.....its your call :thumb:
I second this! This is THE key. You need torque and this will do it. Just make sure someone sits on or otherwise steadies the bike while you break the bolt. That being said, I was able to get mine off with a ratchet-wrench.
Hello,
Take a ratchet strap, pass it through the front wheel and completely around the back side of the center stand. Hook the hooks together and tighten it up. Now there is no chance of pushing it back off the stand. You can still topple it over sideways so be aware.
Fudd's first law:....."If you push anything hard enough,...it will fall over!"
Teslickels deviant to Fudd's first law:....."What goes in,.. must come out!"
When I come across immovable objects, I go next door and get my neighbor.
He's a massive man, and I believe the last of the nephilim, He lives for such moments to show his brute strength.
My point is: If you can't find a bigger bar, find a bigger man.
I made my own dogbones, and mine came off without too much hassle, half hour or so tops (I just had my neighbor lift the bike up and hold it so I had easier access! lol jk)
Just a tip for other dimers out there,
You don't necessarily need to go out and buy a breaker bar... Many things can work like one, any pole or rod that will slide over the end of your ratchet to extend it will work. Things such as a piece of metal conduit, or in my case is use the handle from floor jack. You just need something that will add leverage, and the longer it is, the more leverage you have. What gsJack was trying to say though, was that if it doesn't break loose by only extending your leverage, pulling and pushing and yanking on an even longer bar than before is dangerous because you have added more leverage... So it is even easier to rock your bike over. Short bursts with a hammer to the end of the ratchet will be more effective, and less likely to tip your bike over if the breaker bar doesn't move it along without yanking/pulling/etc...
- Bboy
Edit: Sledge brought up a point I neglected in my original post - You should not add leverage to a 'ratchet' or bang on the end of a 'ratchet'.. they are more of a precision tool not used for higher torques... It would be safer to use the tool gsJack mentioned - something without a ratcheting mechanism - or a correct sized closed ended wrench, an adjustable or open ended one is not preferred because of slippage and damage to the nut.
Quote from: BockinBboy on July 13, 2012, 05:49:51 AM
Just a tip for other dimers out there,
You don't necessarily need to go out and buy a breaker bar... Many things can work like one, any pole or rod that will slide over the end of your ratchet to extend it will work.
Quote from: BockinBboy on July 13, 2012, 05:49:51 AM
Just a tip for other dimers out there,
Short bursts with a hammer to the end of the ratchet will be more effective.
- Bboy
Geeeeezzz :dunno_black:..........Go and buy a decent ratchet then read the instructions that come with it. Using a tube on the handle is the most effective way of overloading and damaging it known to man, particularly if the ratchet is old and has been well used.
See here....... http://www.stanleyproto.com/xhtml/LITERATURE/PROTOCATALOG_P20800_SAFETYTIPS.PDF
I thought this thread was all about finding an effective and SAFE way of overcoming this problem :dunno_black:
Quote from: sledge on July 13, 2012, 09:35:02 AM
Geeeeezzz :dunno_black:..........Go and buy a decent ratchet then read the instructions that come with it. Using a tube on the handle is the most effective way of overloading and damaging it known to man, particularly if the ratchet is old and has been well used.
See here....... http://www.stanleyproto.com/xhtml/LITERATURE/PROTOCATALOG_P20800_SAFETYTIPS.PDF
I thought this thread was all about finding an effective and SAFE way of overcoming this problem :dunno_black:
I'm glad you edited your original post, Sledge. You present a valid point that I neglected in my original post. It is not the best solution by any means, but throwing money at solution that may not work isn't either. Most ratchets are not designed for high torque, and you shouldn't be using a ratchet to tighten things to high torques, or loosen things from high torque. It would be better to use a correct size wrench without any ratcheting mechanism to break lose a stuck on bolt. I'm am not saying to add a darn ten foot piece conduit to the thing either. The area is tight around those dog bones and it is difficult to even get a socket head in there, especially on the right side (I just did it myself when lowering my bike). So, to even get your hand around a handle in that area to add any force, you may have to add an extension out to the rear of the seat.
- Bboy
A breaker bar is the obvious choice, but I wouldn't run out to buy one if I didn't have one. To break the bolt through the dog bones you should have torque to spare using just a 3/8" ratchet with a homemade extender and not do any damage to the ratchet. If you have a 1/2" ratchet, even better, That bolt is no match for a 1/2 ratchet/pipe, no way on earth you're going to break a 1/2" ratchet breaking that bolt even if you have a 10 ft pipe on the end! lol.