GStwin.com GS500 Message Forum

Main Area => General GS500 Discussion => Topic started by: Tombstones81 on July 11, 2012, 12:40:48 PM

Title: Ticking Noise
Post by: Tombstones81 on July 11, 2012, 12:40:48 PM
Bike has developed a nice ticking noise, mostly when idle and sometimes when im coming to a stop and slowing down.

I dont recall hearing it until the bikes warmed up, I could be wrong tho.

Sounds like its coming from the front area.

Headers are not loose or overtight.
Valves are all within spec.
One exhaust valve tho is at like .010mm.

Exhaust gaskets are brand new.

Basically, it sounds like a quarter being tapped on the desk.
or as if the header mount was complete off and dangling.
but it isnt loose and when I apply pressure to both, it does nothing.

Only does this at idle too.
throttle makes it go away.

For good measure tho, I am going to take the header bolts out and reinstall the pipe.

check the valve clearance again.

and also check the timing chain tensioner.

any other suggestions?


oh yea, might be unrelated and only a carb issue.

when i am coming to a stop, it seems fuel starved and sometimes dies on me. (even with a full tank of gas)
but after I stop or hit the throttle, its fine and also starts right back up without a problem.

will go over the carbs again for good measure as well.


shes riding very nice tho.
no complaints, just annoying little issues.
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: Dizzledan on July 11, 2012, 04:27:28 PM
I vote for the camshaft end play noise that plagues some GS's. It also could be correctly set valves (if you set your exhaust valve at the higher .08-.11 spec as some do, the noise will be more prevalant).

When you have the valve cover off to check things out, try to move your camshafts in side to side, that is what you're most likely hearing. Logically a tighter cam chain would absolve the noise, but then it would be too tight at the higher rpms (as it was explained to me). The noise is harmless either way.
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: bsheppar on July 19, 2012, 09:06:53 AM
One thing you may want to check for piece of mind is the bolts that hold the clutch starter to the generator/flywheel rotor behind the left-side engine cover. These have a tendency to loosen over time and could make a knocking/clicking sound if loose. I wish someone had told m to check mine before the bolts snapped and destroyed my rotor.
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: burnchassis on July 19, 2012, 09:35:20 AM
I'm going with a vacuum leak.
They often have the tick sound..would also cut the fuel when vacuum/rpm decreased.
It would also go away when rpm increase,and vacuum became sufficient.
-CS
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: prmas on July 19, 2012, 06:14:51 PM
Possible loose spark plugs. Even a little loose and they will make a ticking noise at idle but you will not hear it as the revs rise. :D
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: burnchassis on July 19, 2012, 06:42:57 PM
A loose plug = oil everywhere.
-CS
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: prmas on July 19, 2012, 11:37:46 PM
Sorry CS but I beg to differ. I can't say specifically about these engines but usually on a four stroke there will be minimal sweating around a loose plug unless it has been loose for a very long time. If there is oil everywhere around the spark plug hole you have a lot more to worry about than a ticking noise. I have been a qualified mechanic for 42 years and changed thousands of spark plugs including many loose ones. Ticking noises are common as the compression leaks up around the threads on a loose plug but a healthy engine will only "dry" stain around the plug area. A two stroke engine is a very different case though.

I hope this helps
Macka
Title: Re: Ticking Noise
Post by: Tombstones81 on July 31, 2012, 04:13:43 PM
Well, I finally got around to digging into the bike.

Expected to have to remove the head as I suspected it was something wrong with one of the exhaust valves.

First tho, I checked the clearance again....

Well... I dunno How exactly, but Both exhaust valve clearances were at .15mm
I assume the .13 and .15mm gauges were stuck together when I checked it after I installed the head, and thats why I thought they were between .10 and .13mm.

Changed shims, right exhaust valve is at .10mm now
and the left is at .08mm.

Left it run for like 10 mins and it sounded Alot better.
No ticking either but I am going to need to go for a nice ride first to make sure.

Just hope its all good now.