Hi guys , when i start my bike and let it idle within a couple of minutes the top end is scolding hot! where as i can put my hand on the crank case and it still be cold?
Also the other day i had an oil leak from the gasket around my oil filter , the filter and gasket are pretty new too , could i have an oil blockage somewhere which is casuing pressure in the crank case which gave me my oil leak ? and which is also causing the top end to get incredibly hot so quickly?
Thanks in advance
Dransy
It's due to the fact that the combustion is happening at the same height where the exhaust is. That's also why the larger fins are near there as well. You shouldn't let it sit too long idling (more than 3-4 minutes) without being warmed up completely or bad things can happen.
If your oil filter gasket is leaky, take it off (have a clean cup to catch the still-good oil), take a rag and wipe off the face on the engine, and the gasket itself to make sure no dirt/grime is impeding the seal. When you put it back on, make sure to press the cover on all the way with one hand, while the other tightens all the nuts evenly (but not too tight, they can snap easily).
If you're really concerned about your oil pressure, there is a gauge you can buy that you screw in to a port on the right side of the engine and it will tell you your current oil pressure. You also have an internal failsafe monitor that works the red light on the dash. If pressure drops to 0 or there isn't enough oil, the light will shine.
Fire is usually hot.
i think you are okay, unless its making weird, well, very weird noises.
and to whoever can knowledgeably answer: does the oil light turn on for overpressure? i think the manual says it does, but im not sure?
Quote from: Funderb on August 02, 2012, 09:30:02 PM
and to whoever can knowledgeably answer: does the oil light turn on for overpressure? i think the manual says it does, but im not sure?
Underpressure:
(http://i.imgur.com/eeFpIl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/eeFpI)
It also means you are running lean, check your header pipes, if they are hot your bike is running lean
I've been having problems with my fueling , one spark plug was black and the other was white , stripped my carbs down and one of the float chamber covers was loose ! So I'm hoping that's what was causing my fueling problems ?
thanks dizzle, i wasnt sure if it did both, now i know!
Quote from: iclrag on August 02, 2012, 11:08:53 PM
It also means you are running lean, check your header pipes, if they are hot your bike is running lean
By hot, he means REALLY HOT. Of course the header pipes are going to be hot.
Quote from: dransy on August 02, 2012, 11:46:27 PM
I've been having problems with my fueling , one spark plug was black and the other was white , stripped my carbs down and one of the float chamber covers was loose ! So I'm hoping that's what was causing my fueling problems ?
White spark plugs are bad, that also means you are running way to lean and the heat from this can and will start damaging your engine or start making things warp. I would look up how to adjust the air / fuel mixture screw as well as thinking about re-jetting
Black spark plugs from my experience mean it's running too rich, alot less dangerous than running lean (although rich gets slightly worse MPG)
I'm sure someone else can chime in about the proper way to adjust how rich / lean the bike is running
This is probably another case of needle valves being out of adjustment, or mashed needle valve seat orings. Adjust your float height and check using the clear U tube from the carb drain method. It's detailed on many places on this forum.
Hi guys i stripped the carbs the other day and one of the float bowl covers was lose! , would that cause the white spark plug as it would have been leaking fuel from the bowl?
Also i just checked for oil circulation and its perfectly fine ,
I drained a bit of engine oil out and it smells like fuel!! what causes this as i know it cant be good?
I can't say for sure, but maybe it wasn't sealing causing less gas to flow?
This part is for everybody
As a general rule of thumb less gas = too lean = excess heat, usually this is first detected by the header pipes getting hot. This causes warping and excessive wear on the engine (not good)
more gas = running rich = worse MPG / possible fuel fouling (wasting of gas and gas on the plugs)
I would much prefer my bike to be running slightly rich than slightly lean
Do you think with me tighening up the bowl so it is actually sealed will cease my problem? i havent took it out for a run yet to find out
I see a couple problems with the loose bowl. One would obviously be leaking fuel, which is a huge problem. Other would be that if the bowl is loose, the needle valve seat could work it's way loose as well, allowing fuel to flow continuously into the bowl. Obviously fix that.
Next, fuel in your oil is caused by the flooding of the carb bowls with fuel. This happens because the needle valves are not sealing when they should be. As I mentioned in my previous post, you need to make sure to check your float heights using the clear U tube method. If you can't get the fuel level to the correct fuel height, you probably need new needle valve sets. Don't buy the aftermarket ones, buy OEM. In my experience, I could not get the K&L rebuild set to work. OEM replacements worked perfectly.
Finally, change your oil before you do any more riding.
I agree with the oil, i would get a good synthetic oil, i'm partial to the castrol motorcycle 10W40 i believe is the #'s, although i've been thinking about trying royal purple.
i'm not saying for sure it will fix the problem, but it may well have been the cause of the problem, once you try that if there are still problems i would go from there (after all i would rather do the free stuff and test it before i spent money on a rebuild kit).
+1 to bombsquad if this doesn't solve it
Stripped the carbs out again today , gave them a real good clean and i put the mixture screws to 2.5 turns out they where almost 4 turns out!
Cleaned the spark plugs and went out for a 15-20 mile ride came home and checked the plugs , but one is still black and dry(sutted) and the other one was a browny colour and also dry.
When i took the carbs apart i think maybe the seals for the float chamber are a little bit past there life , If i get new seals with O rings and some new plugs , do you rekon this could the problem?
The bike runs perfectly fine but the plugs would state otherwise ?
Im also convinced its running hot but i might just be been paranoid?
Cheers Marco
Brown is good. Recheck the float height on the side that was black and dry with a clear tube from the drain with the petcock on prime. The gas level in the tube should be level with the bowl gasket surface. It might be higher than that, which would cause it to be rich on that side. Turn the petcock back to on and close the carb drain (obviously) when you are done.
If the gas level is higher than the gasket. Bend the tab (very slightly) that hits the top of the float needle to make the float sit higher when the carb is held upside down, and then retest with the clear tube method.
Hi I seem to me getting loads of fuel into the oil in crank case , could this be anything to with the carbs , or is it the valves /piston rings ?
Check carb float needle seats (most likely cause).
Change oil now. You are not getting sufficient lubrication when oil mixes with gas. I'd park it until the issue is fixed.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 03, 2012, 11:47:06 AM
I see a couple problems with the loose bowl. One would obviously be leaking fuel, which is a huge problem. Other would be that if the bowl is loose, the needle valve seat could work it's way loose as well, allowing fuel to flow continuously into the bowl. Obviously fix that.
Next, fuel in your oil is caused by the flooding of the carb bowls with fuel. This happens because the needle valves are not sealing when they should be. As I mentioned in my previous post, you need to make sure to check your float heights using the clear U tube method. If you can't get the fuel level to the correct fuel height, you probably need new needle valve sets. Don't buy the aftermarket ones, buy OEM. In my experience, I could not get the K&L rebuild set to work. OEM replacements worked perfectly.
Finally, change your oil before you do any more riding.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 04, 2012, 06:54:45 PM
Brown is good. Recheck the float height on the side that was black and dry with a clear tube from the drain with the petcock on prime. The gas level in the tube should be level with the bowl gasket surface. It might be higher than that, which would cause it to be rich on that side. Turn the petcock back to on and close the carb drain (obviously) when you are done.
If the gas level is higher than the gasket. Bend the tab (very slightly) that hits the top of the float needle to make the float sit higher when the carb is held upside down, and then retest with the clear tube method.
Please read my previous posts again. Fuel in the crankcase is due fuel overfilling the carb bowls. Don't worry about rings or valves. Most likely there is no issue there. You need to either adjust your float heights, or if that doesn't solve it, then buy new float needle sets. Once again, do not ride your bike until you have solved this issue. Once you get the float heights correct, change your oil.
Thanks for the replies , I'm not riding the bike !
I've found a kit on wemoto with the float bowl seal 3 O rings the float weight and the gold jet like thing it sits in , on my phone at work so can't link it , does it sound like the stuff I need ?
+1 to what bombsquad said.
on spark plugs here's the general rule of thumb
-Dark / black = fuel fouled (too rich)
-Brown ( like a perfectly toasted marshmellow) is perfect
-white is hot / running lean.
Quote from: dransy on August 06, 2012, 08:02:18 AM
Thanks for the replies , I'm not riding the bike !
I've found a kit on wemoto with the float bowl seal 3 O rings the float weight and the gold jet like thing it sits in , on my phone at work so can't link it , does it sound like the stuff I need ?
Didn't I mention issues with aftermarket needle valves? It's like I'm talking to myself here...
You can certainly try the aftermarket rebuild kits, but I find it better/safer to order OEM parts.
Here is a cart with all the part numbers you need from ronayers.com
SKU QTY Your Price List Price Total Price
188390 O RING (13295-29900) 2 $2.91 $3.51 $5.82
193462 O RING (13509-17C00) 2 $2.91 $3.51 $5.82
186233 GASKET,FLOAT CH (13258-44B00) 2 $6.58 $7.94 $13.17
190798 13374-35C00 (13374-44080) 2 $1.74 $2.52 $3.48
190799 O-RING NEEDLE V (13374-46710) 2 $2.99 $3.61 $5.99
190751 13370-02D00 (13370-44B00) 2 $23.89 $34.62 $47.78
Sub Total: $82.06
As you can see, the Needle valve sets are the expensive part, so if you can get yours to work, then don't order new ones.
Here (http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/CARBURETOR/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/34/Year/1993/ModelID/7106/Model/GS500E/GroupID/307499/Group/CARBURETOR) is the link to the fiche with that shows how all these parts go into the carbs.
EDIT: I see that you are in the UK. I'm not sure of a good OEM parts supplier over there, but I'm sure there are some. Part numbers remain the same regardless.
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gs_500_ev_ew/97-98/picture/carburettor_gasket_and_float_valve_kit/
I assume this kit is the one you mentioned? Those are the parts you need...and it looks to be a decent price, but don't be surprised if you have headaches with the needle valves again. That's why I advise to go with OEM.
Hi there , I didn't mean they where ones I was going get just using it as a reference as to what I needed . Only place I've ordered from on the past you see .