Just joined the forum, it appears to be the most useful sight on the interwebs for the GS500. Just picked up my bike yesterday, its a 2009 Black GS500 - the 'naked'? version. Rode it home in the rain and dark. I plan to use this thread to talk about my bike, post my pictures of my bike, and record some of my ideas.
Need to improve the headlight a bit if I am going to do more riding in the dark outside of the city. Tank bag would be nice. Some kind of otter box to store my insurance and ownership in the tail... I am also trying to get it in for service. It has 10,500 km's and no service history was available. The PO seemed responsible, but who knows, I am mainly interested in a valve inspection and carb sync as I don't have the tools or manual yet and want to get out and ride before the weather turns. Once I have the manual I'll do more servicing my self.
Previous Bikes:
2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 900C
2008 Harley Crossbones
2010 BMW F800GS
What I wanted with this bike:
Cheap to buy, cheap to own, reliable, fun to ride (light, peppy & agile), easy to work on (I like a little wrenching during the non-riding season). Bike will be used for 90% commuting, 10% jaunts out side the city and some minimal 2 up riding - a trip for coffee or ice cream on the weekend. I hope this bikes turns out be be what I wanted.
Ok, so I have about 90km's on my new to me bike so far. That basically consisted of riding from the PO's house to my house. It was dark and raining.
I just came off an F800GS - adventure touring bike - Long travel suspension, enduro styling. I almost immediately hated the GS500, I felt cramped and the bike was less responsive than I anticipated. I had a chance to sit on the bike and ride it up the block prior to buying but this was my first real ride.
So, after riding for a few minutes I start to get used to the 'new' bike. The seating really isn't cramped (I am 6'2") it's just different. I got used to my foot angle and the shifting and braking quickly. And I found I needed to keep the rev's a little higher to get the bike to perform how I wanted it to. With the rain and it being a new bike I was overly cautious in the corners but I could tell the bike will be much better than any of my previous bikes for the corners - can't wait. My @$$ began to hurt about after about an hour, but that's standard for any bike I've ridden - I get used to it and it won't bug me. Oh - and my rear brakes squeal...
Overall impression so far is that this bike will be a great bike for bombing around town - exactly why I got it.
Edited: For crappy spelling.
A few Pic's from the PO's ad to sell the bike.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kTFdcMG/0/L/i-kTFdcMG-L.jpg)
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KT4hhjg/0/L/i-KT4hhjg-L.png)
Edit: to fix links
Welcome! I'm always interested in what people have to say about the gs versus their other bikes. Looks good too. Glad to have you on Zach. :thumb:
Thanks cbrfx67,
So I got home today and took a look at the bike.
Project 1: Sticker Removal... hmm no easy button... well a gold star will have to do. :star:
I really can't ride around with the stickers staring me in the face
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-pB5f2mW/0/L/i-pB5f2mW-L.png)
So, I've done this project a couple of times before and thru trial and error I've come to trust the results I get with a hair drier. A buddy of mine at work did this sticker removal using 'means unknown' on his Bandit and basically has white sticker residue now, instead of the sticker. I would hate that more. The trick with the hair drier is to let the glue heat up enough that it turns sticky again making the sticker easier to peel. I just want to start the edge and pull - not scratch it off with a finger nail.
Hurry while the wife's not home...
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MgDv97q/0/M/i-MgDv97q-M.png)
One down, one to go
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MdbcC7n/0/M/i-MdbcC7n-M.png)
Those stickers had been on their for close to 4 years I imagine. A little window cleaner to clean up the edge lines and now its as if they weren't there.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZfxSJnk/0/L/i-ZfxSJnk-L.png)
They might have came off fine with out the hair drier, but this method hasn't failed me yet.
First 2 up ride & the first time the wife got to take it for a spin.
2up: Better than all my other bikes! Bike one had a Corbin gunfighter seat, bike two had a Corbin solo, bike three had a Renazco Racing seat (dirtbike style). The wife says she was comfortable and we aren't taking it touring so that is a score 1 for the GS500. I am still getting used to how close the ground is when I put my foot down. Small hiccup at the first stop sign - nothing major but I would have looked rookie-ish.
Wife's ride: 'It's ok' was the common theme. I even got a "Well it's not my bike". Clearly not going to be a hand me down... We went over to the big church parking lot in my neighborhood so she could get used to it. Basically she doesn't like that it leans you forward, she wants it to be more straight up. I am kind of agreeing with her right now, but its only day 2 and I have only owned the bike for just over 24 hours. I won't do anything 'major' until I have had some real time on the bike and can experience it like it is stock first. I think it would just take some risers or different bars right now to come upward and back - kinda Triumph Bonneville style?
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-rcNGTRb/0/M/i-rcNGTRb-M.jpg)
Welcome to the forum. Bike looks nice and I am sure you will love it (I am biased as I have 2 of them)
Welcome to the next addiction of your life. anyways, i like how you can sit both upright and leaning forward on the bike, definitely not a cruiser but not a sport either, it's a good combination of the two in my opinion
Just a quick update.
Rode the bike thru town up to the dealership to get it serviced. The PO gave me no service records and its close to 11,000 kms now. I dropped it off Saturday morning and will pick it up Monday after work. I asked to have the valves inspected and adjusted if necessary. The ride thru town made me (and anyone else around me) very aware of my squeaky rear break. I'm pretty sure my next 'project' for the bike will be to see if I can kill that. From some searching on the web I have decided to try the following things to see if I can solve my problem.
- Ensure proper alignment of rear wheel
- Inspect & replace rear pads if necessary
- Apply some anti squeal to the rear of the pad
I really don't want to apply the gunk to the back of the pads cause I will feel kind of defeated if I do that. I am really hopeful that my alignment is out and that once its realigned the squeak goes away. I will see about picking up a manual when I pick up the bike tomorrow after work... else I am sure I can find rear axle torque values somewhere on this sight.
Here is a link bookmark for myself: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=25892.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=25892.0)
And another http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=30163.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=30163.msg328084#msg328084)
I am also semi researching some rox risers for the bike. No where near ready to pull the trigger on that yet, looking to get a little bit more of a sport touring feel from the GS.
(http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cart/pics/121762696243959.jpg)
if its like mine the the last person didnt change the pads, and the rear rotor has some groves in it. if those things dont work look at the rotor itself.
Welcome to the site!
Love the bike. That all black is killer!
I have a set of black 1" up and back risers on mine. Can't remember the brand though. They ran me around a hundred dollars.
Quote from: GI_JO_NATHAN on August 12, 2012, 03:43:00 PM
Welcome to the site!
Love the bike. That all black is killer!
I have a set of black 1" up and back risers on mine. Can't remember the brand though. They ran me around a hundred dollars.
Thanks. Ya, there were a few for sale in the area when I picked this one up. Many blue/white ones a gray one and this all black one. Went out of my way to go and get it, meant I had a nice inaugural 1+ hour ride home thru many back roads. I thought maybe I would paint one of the blue ones, but decided if I got the black there would be no need for that.
Quote from: knowles on August 12, 2012, 03:41:00 PM
if its like mine the the last person didnt change the pads, and the rear rotor has some groves in it. if those things dont work look at the rotor itself.
Thank's, I'll check that out too.
Got the bike back from service this afternoon. Asked about a manual, they only have the 'real' service manual and apparently it's expensive and you have to order it and wait. I think I'll just get an aftermarket one from one of the other shops. I will recommend TriCity Cycles (in Kitchener ON) for there friendly staff, they really didn't want me to do the valve inspection. When I emailed them I asked to get one, when I dropped it off we went out to the bike and fired it up - he said he would do the inspection but didn't think I needed it. Then this afternoon I got a call from the service department making sure I wanted the inspections because they didn't want to waste my money. Cool, but I did want to have them inspected on my new to me bike.
The did do a chain adjustment - so that would mean the rear wheel would have had to have been realigned. My ride home was almost squeakless from the rear brake, and the 2 or 3 times I heard it, it was really faint. I am going to check the alignment this evening and see if it's off, but I am hoping to put the squeak to bed early in my ownership.
Picked up 2 items for the bike this weekend and got a chance to get them on the bike this afternoon.
The first item is a Pelican Case (model 1010) to hold my insurance, ownership and small odds and ends in the tail of the bike. The case itself was $13 from an outdoor supply store - the kind that sells camping gear and such. Its water tight and small so I figured it was up for the task.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-bwwVZgc/0/M/i-bwwVZgc-M.jpg)
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-d7r8vMw/0/M/i-d7r8vMw-M.jpg)
Here I give you an idea of what it can hold. That is my library card - same size as a credit card.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-HNQQFTf/0/M/i-HNQQFTf-M.jpg)
It takes a twist of the wrist to get it in, but it fits fine with out much fuss. I may try and get the strap holding down the tool kit to go over top.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Hrhz3KN/0/M/i-Hrhz3KN-M.jpg)
Next up was a tank bag. I had one for my F800GS and loved the convince.
This one is a Gears I-Wire tank bag. I chose it because its compact but can hold my lunch and pretty much anything else I would want for the day.
It is a magnetic tank bag so it can be easily removed.
Here is the link: http://www.gearscanada.com/products/details/77/5/i-wire-tank-bag.html (http://www.gearscanada.com/products/details/77/5/i-wire-tank-bag.html)
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kwwm63H/0/M/i-kwwm63H-M.jpg)
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-CmChWSj/0/L/i-CmChWSj-L.jpg)
I put my garage door opener in where the iPod is supposed to go... ipod...
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-SxjmDv6/0/L/i-SxjmDv6-L.jpg)
The ride home was great, I am really starting to warm up to the bike. It reminds me of the bikes we had in my first training course: small, light, nimble and just plain fun to ride. What a great bike for bombing around town!
Good work! Keep it up!
You planning a fender-ectamy
Suzuki shop manuals pop up on eBay all the time, usually for around $40 USD. Check there if you really want one.
Quote from: GI_JO_NATHAN on August 13, 2012, 04:14:19 PM
Good work! Keep it up!
You planning a fender-ectamy
I don' think there is anything wrong with the fender. If it ain't broke...
Not much of a 'project' thread for this little GS. Just a thread about my bike. I did a ton of stuff to my x-bones when I had it. Sunk a bunch of money into it - it was fun, but talk about pissing money away. I don't want to do that with this bike, I am looking for a comfortable, cheap, reliable ride that is fun to get out on and easy to service myself.
My old bones:
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/749528627_Vi58n-L.jpg)
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/749528443_2fADM-L.jpg)
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/750123635_cchVq-L.jpg)
Here is what it looked like stock:
(http://www.rippin-kitten.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/harley-davidson-cross-bones.jpg)
Quote from: jdoorn14 on August 13, 2012, 04:33:59 PM
Suzuki shop manuals pop up on eBay all the time, usually for around $40 USD. Check there if you really want one.
I think the Haynes or Clymer will be just fine. I wouldn't not get the Suzuki shop manual, but I saw a Clymer on the weekend at one of the dealerships I was at. I didn't pick it up because it wasn't my model year (89-02). I checked it out on line and apparently they didn't make one for my model year and that manual should be just fine.
(http://www.motortraders.net/~mtn/new/CM484-3.jpg)
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on August 13, 2012, 06:01:20 PM
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/749528627_Vi58n-L.jpg)
Here is what it looked like stock:
(http://www.rippin-kitten.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/harley-davidson-cross-bones.jpg)
Nice! Looks lots better than stock.
Nice write up so far.
Coming from a F800GS you will notice the different posture, seat height and torque for sure. But you will quickly come to handle the posture without needing to adjust the handlebars - I'm also 6'2 and my bike (also a black 09) is totally stock and I have no issues whatsoever.
The rear brake squeak is standard. But you'll soon learn how to combine front and back together so no squeak is heard. I'm still on my original brake pads and am over 56,000kms on the bike now.
Welcome to the club :thumb:
Michael
Well done on scoring such a nice looking bike. I bought mine for almost exactly the same reasons as you. I have a Honda VFR750, which as much as I love it is simply too expensive to use as an everyday bike and a Yamaha SR250 that's also great, but slow to the point of being dangerous on the highway (no fun having trucks pass you). The GS fits perfectly in the middle, light and nimble enough for traffic, and will sit at 120Km/h all day out on the open road, with a bit in reserve when you need it. It's great fun to chuck around in the corners too!
Quote from: mister on August 14, 2012, 03:58:49 AM
Nice write up so far.
Coming from a F800GS you will notice the different posture, seat height and torque for sure. But you will quickly come to handle the posture without needing to adjust the handlebars - I'm also 6'2 and my bike (also a black 09) is totally stock and I have no issues whatsoever.
The rear brake squeak is standard. But you'll soon learn how to combine front and back together so no squeak is heard. I'm still on my original brake pads and am over 56,000kms on the bike now.
Welcome to the club :thumb:
Michael
Thanks Michael, I watched your review of the bike on You Tube twice before my purchase. It was a really good overview of the bike, I appreciated having it as a resource - it was especially helpful because we are both the same height. I am not in a hurry to modify the bike until I get a good feel for it, and then I still am not in a real hurry. I ride it around town.
Coming from the F800GS this bike feels small (compact), low - especially leaning into corners and much more nimble. It's a far less intimidating bike - not that the F800GS was intimidating - but the GS500 feels more like a toy. I like that I can toss it around it makes for a really fun bike to ride. The F800GS had more grunt lower in the RPM's, I feel like I am winding this one up to get it to go. It really performs better at about 1000 to 1500 RPM's higher than I feel like I should be running it. I am getting used to that and its the kind of riding that brings a smile to my face - feels like I am wringing it out but not getting the speeding tickets you might expect when riding a bike in that manner.
My wife thinks this is a one season bike, she had the Suzuki S40 for 6 weeks - that's right 6 - and she really hated it at the end. She sold it and got a Sportster 1200C before also getting an F800GS. I have higher expectations for the GS500. The killer for me on my BMW was the times when I was not riding it. $$$ sitting in my garage - looking pretty and eating insurance money month after month thru the winter. Any time we were looking at ways to save a little cash, we would think of the 2 BMW F800GS bikes sitting in our garage. The difference in initial cost and ongoing insurance is great enough that it will make it hard to move on to some of the other bikes that were on my list.
- Suzuki Gladius
- Kawasaki Versys 650
- Suzuki DR-Z400 SM
- Suzuki V-Strom (this is a new add)
- Suzuki SV650 naked
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on August 14, 2012, 07:52:16 AM
The killer for me on my BMW was the times when I was not riding it. $$$ sitting in my garage - looking pretty and eating insurance money month after month thru the winter. Any time we were looking at ways to save a little cash, we would think of the 2 BMW F800GS bikes sitting in our garage. The difference in initial cost and ongoing insurance is great...
Very good points.
I've tried to explain that to people many times. Most just don't get it. I have four bikes in my garage, the total perchase price of all of them is $5300, over a five year period. And I pay $24/month insurance for full coverage on two of them. Sure I lust after more highend bikes, but can't regret the ones I already have one bit.
Nice choice of Other bikes. I've ridden some of those and written about them here in the "Compare...." thread.
Vstrom 650 vs Versys 1000 http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52805.msg700641#msg700641
BMW F650GS vs BMW F800GS http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52805.msg707899#msg707899
SV650... I've ridden both a Naked and Sport. The sport was quite an unpleasant ride to be honest. Bumpy, Very forward leaning, just not me. While the Naked was upright like the GS500. Will Not get on a Gladius - won't go out of my way to ride one, but will if someone gives me one to ride without my asking.
Zach - with the GS, I know you're still learning the rev ranges from coming off the 800, so try changing gears Up at around 5,500-6000 for normal acceleration. It will cruse at 37mph in 4th gear at 4000. Don't bother going into 6th until about 56/57mph. See how you go with that. :thumb:
Michael
Great choice for a bike, I just bought a 2009 GS500F for my wife with 6,100 kms. She's put 100 kms on it and already she wants a lowering kit, tank bag, bigger windshield!!
Quote from: mister on August 14, 2012, 02:31:28 PM
Nice choice of Other bikes. I've ridden some of those and written about them here in the "Compare...." thread.
Vstrom 650 vs Versys 1000 http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52805.msg700641#msg700641
BMW F650GS vs BMW F800GS http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52805.msg707899#msg707899
SV650... I've ridden both a Naked and Sport. The sport was quite an unpleasant ride to be honest. Bumpy, Very forward leaning, just not me. While the Naked was upright like the GS500. Will Not get on a Gladius - won't go out of my way to ride one, but will if someone gives me one to ride without my asking.
Read your compare threads, nice detail - but you've given me some negative on the Versys which was a front runner if it weren't for cost. I don't have plans for a new bike for several years despite my wife's suggestion to the contrary.
The first Gladius I saw as the all black one at the dealership. I sat on it and it seemed to feel pretty good. Most reviews are good but the styling and apparently the advertizements have been directed more towards riders of the female persuasion...
That DR-Z400 SM was leading my 'cost effective' search before I discovered the GS500.
Quote from: mister on August 14, 2012, 02:31:28 PM
Zach - with the GS, I know you're still learning the rev ranges from coming off the 800, so try changing gears Up at around 5,500-6000 for normal acceleration. It will cruse at 37mph in 4th gear at 4000. Don't bother going into 6th until about 56/57mph. See how you go with that. :thumb:
Michael
I gave this a shot on my ride today. I had been changing around 4100 4500, on my ride to work I was changing around 5200 and that felt better. I'll wind it up a little more on my ride home from work. Never got out of 4th this morning most roads to work are 50 - 60 km/h so my revs were up in the mid to high 4's in normal riding conditions.
Got a handful of complements at work on the bike, its the first time I had brought it in since I got it. I managed to *just* fit my lunch in that tank bag, it was really tight but it managed to fit my wallet, phone and lunch - a lot of Tupperware style dishes (I think I got left over chicken pot pie). I am happy with how convenient the bag is, just pulled it of the bike and brought it in to my desk. My old bag was strapped to the tank on the GS, I never took it off unless I needed access to the battery.
Ah, ok your a km guy... well it Should sit around 4,000 at 60kph. If it sits much higher then you most likely don't have stock front sprockets.
5,200 rpm is good. No need to change at 6k unless you want a little more oomph when taking off. Even at 5200 you'll accelerate quicker than most cars do, unless they are trying.
I haven't ridden a 650 Versys - like the GS500 they are a Learner Approved Motorcycle (LAM) bike down here where the Vstrom 650 isn't. Down here it's all about Power To Weight Ratio of 150kw per tonne. Versys 650 has 59hp, VStrom has 68hp and BMW F650GS 71hp.
I figured the VStrom 650 and BMW 650 (that's the one with the 800cc engine computer mapped to be a 650) were very close to each other. The BMW was slightly better in the engine and handling, the VStrom in rider protection, pillion carrying ability and price. The BMW is slightly more agricultural looking to me so could be more likely to be ridden without care if it is dirty or not. But at minimum 50% more money than the VStrom I'm not seeing the value in the BMW - a brand new VStrom 650 can be had for $8990 while ex demo BMW F650GSes go for $13k-$15k :o
Of course, GS500s, even brand new ones, go for much cheaper again and just cannot be beaten for value for money or handling, IMO. :thumb:
Cause it falls into the LAM Scheme, people tend to think of it Only as a learners bike. But I like to point out, before this LAMS thing, the learner restriction was 250cc so the GS500 was only available to Full License Holders and it sold well then. Nothing has changed about the bike, just the category it has been placed in due to its power to weight ratio. Still the same bike, still bought and ridden by full license holders. Leaner friendly does not make it a Learners Only bike. But the ease of riding does make it a keep, as far as I'm concerned.
Michael
I had some time to night to check out my rear wheel alignment. I am very, very close to true. I measured/checked at two different spots. The swing arm lines match up very closely - 4th from the back on each side. This is better than it was when I took it in to get service. I also measured the length of the adjuster bolt and they are really identical. The only thing I noticed was that the 'block plate?' on the back of the swing arm seemed bowed in on one side and level on the other. I wouldn't have noticed it if I weren't down there checking out measurements.
Left Side w/ Bow:
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7kqp5jc/0/L/i-7kqp5jc-L.jpg)
Right Side w/o Bow:
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GZc2Xgq/0/L/i-GZc2Xgq-L.jpg)
In other news, I ordered a Haynes Manual today, I had read it's a little better for performing routine maintenance, which is the extent of what I want to do with the bike. I am planning to replace the brake and fuel lines this fall before I put the bike away for the winter; probably as good a time as any to get some steel braided lines - then I can feel good about giving the little bike something special. Suzuki maintenance schedule indicates they should be replaced every 4 years so they are likely due. Once I get the manual I will take a look at the brake pads.
Rotors look fine and nothing was mentioned at my last service at the dealership; the rear is a bit more scarred with a distinct groove. I can see it visually but by fingernail can hardly tell it's there.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-DmxrfqT/0/L/i-DmxrfqT-L.jpg)
For fun I am going to look around at after market rear brakes. I had read somewhere on this forum that the front brake had adjuster pins/clips/something in them and the back ones didn't. Fronts don't squeak, back ones do. I figure if I am going to spend any money on the bike it would be to get rid of that squeak.... I know, I know there are ways around it but this will keep me busy with a 'problem' I can work on trying to resolve.
Edit: Crappy Spelling Fixed
Brake Pad Link for Later: http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.BrakePads (http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.BrakePads)
So a search on the web for aftermarket parts. Brake Pads, sure. Brake Lines, ok. Rotors, yup. Calipers, heck no... It was so much easier to get bolt on stuff for my Harley.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/761046427_5ddVr-O.gif)
Edit: sp
So this evening when I got home I decided to pull out my brake pads and have a look. The squeal had been noticeable reduced after my service, but I think I am braking different to avoid the squeal as well. It comes on if I use the rear brake lightly, what I end up doing now is taping the rear instead of applying it gradually (along with front of course). If I tap hard enough there is no squeak, but if I ease into it I can be just about guaranteed squeak.
So get the obvious out of the way. Yesterday I took a look at the rotors and the wheel alignment. Rotors looked good and wheel alignment is very close, I won't say perfect. Today I looked at pads for signs of uneven wear, glazing and build up on the pistons in the caliper. Pads are well used, but not uneven nor glazed. The pistons in the caliper are shiny.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-HWKMs3d/0/M/i-HWKMs3d-M.jpg)
I'm no mechanic obviously, but I get to thinking about these half moon shims:
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7znhtrb/0/L/i-7znhtrb-L.jpg)
When the piston comes in contact with them the leading edge that contacts the rotor has the shim, so that side might contact first; while the trailing edge has no shim. The shims are very thin, but it would seem to me that the piston's contact point would have shim for perhaps 60% and rear break pad for 40% and make for an uneven contact point. Under light pressure this might cause vibration and squeal?
I am also noticing the ability for the shim to shift side to side on the back of the brake pad. The needles that hold the pad and the shim go thru elongated wholes which allow for a lot for movement. Perhaps sometimes the shim is captured by the piston out of place, providing more or less contact patch for the piston on the shim. So maybe sometimes it gets 65% shim, and other times 50%?
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-CP8bzhD/0/M/i-CP8bzhD-M.jpg)
For this round I just cleaned everything up and put it back together. I don't have brake cleaner or anti squeal to try. I did switch the inside pad for the outside pad, cause I like living on the edge!
If I still get squeak for the next few days I am going to try loosening that caliper arm that bolts on to the swing arm and tightening it back up. I read some one had some positive results from doing that, from what can gather its seems to be the only point of attachment that would make the wheel alignment create positive results for the rear wheel squeak (IMO).
Have you tried painting the back with copper grease?
Quote from: codajastal on August 16, 2012, 10:19:49 PM
Have you tried painting the back with copper grease?
No, this is the first time I have had the brakes out of the bike. I was really not prepared to do anything but look at them, nothing in the garage and rode to work this morning so I just cleaned everything with a mild cleaner. I did scrub some minor stains off the back of the pads with some 100 girt sand paper I had for doing some drywall last year.
My ride to work this morning was all rear break. I'm not working on technique just trying to test out the rear brakes. I got squeak at the first stop sign at the end of my road and no squeak the rest of my short ride to work. (1 more sign, hit 3 lights and two right hand turns that required me to slow down). I am not saying it solved! Just a remark about cleaning the pads & shims. I'll ride like this until the squeak comes back - that could be as early as my ride back home this evening.
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on August 17, 2012, 10:30:02 AM
... until the squeak comes back - that could be as early as my ride back home this evening.
Yup, heavy stop and go traffic and I could make it squeak when ever I wanted. Mainly initial, light application. More pressure or a second application was less likely to squeak.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=3428.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=3428.0)
Edit: to add Link
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on August 15, 2012, 07:06:25 PM
Brake Pad Link for Later: http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.BrakePads (http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.BrakePads)
So a search on the web for aftermarket parts. Brake Pads, sure. Brake Lines, ok. Rotors, yup. Calipers, heck no... It was so much easier to get bolt on stuff for my Harley.
(http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/761046427_5ddVr-O.gif)
Edit: sp
I find parts super easy to buy.
For calipers - I buy nearly new ones from bike breakers. Often nearly new ones (1k miles or less) with great pads from recent bikes (like 2007 and newer) are like $14.95. When Ineed new pads, I just do that. Cheaper than pads and rebuilding a 10 or 20 year old caliper.
I do the same for rotors.
SS brake lines are easy to get - I always upgrade when I swap a caliper. Makes rear brake really responsive.
The rear wheel tensioners often get bowed if they are not seated squarely. They tend to wander as you tighten the screw. It is OK. They pull the wheel back and when you tighten the axle, they really don't do much except as a safety in case the axle comes lose. You can flatten them and be careful when you tighten the rear wheel.
Quote from: adidasguy on August 17, 2012, 02:45:07 PM
....
The rear wheel tensioners often get bowed if they are not seated squarely. They tend to wander as you tighten the screw. It is OK. They pull the wheel back and when you tighten the axle, they really don't do much except as a safety in case the axle comes lose. You can flatten them and be careful when you tighten the rear wheel.
Thanks adidasguy, I think I'll try flattening it and re-tightening the bolt, I figured it wasn't a big deal.
I bought my self a grunge brush, some brake cleaner and some copper anti-seize over the weekend. I am busy studying for an upcoming exam so playing in the garage is an distraction I can do with out. But it was really easy to pull the brakes out, so if I can get thru my planned studies tonight I will go and apply some of the anti seize to the back of the brake pads. The brakes are still squeaky, I find the squeak goes away, or at least is noticeably reduced after a few km's of riding. I really wanted a dry solution, but was unable to locate some SBS rubber adhesive shims. I can get them online, but they want more to ship them than they cost.
(https://www.denniskirk.com/dk/product_images/sb/600pix/sbs9500f.jpg)
So I picked up some of this and will give it a shot this week.
(http://www.permatex.com/images/DisplayImage.asp?210%7C/images/ProductPhotos/31163.jpg)
This weekend we took the bike out both days for our weekend coffee trips. We typically go for a ride/drive on Saturday and Sunday and stop for coffee, and this weekend we did it on the GS. The bike handled really well two up around town. We were both comfortable, my wife is just shy of 6' tall and has a fussy knee from years playing varsity volleyball. She needed to stretch it once at a stop but was other wise fine. She doesn't slide around near as much as she did on the F800, but does need to reposition if i stop a little to quickly.
Great bike, it's really growing on me. I am still thinking of the Rox riser - maybe for next spring.
So I knocked out the studying that I had to do and spent a few minutes messing about in the garage in an attempt to sort out my squealing rear brake. As mentioned I bought some copper anti-seize with the intent to apply it to the rear of the brake pad, but I did something else instead.
My research so far has me convinced that my brake squeal is from vibrations of the brake pad as the caliper is being applied. Under lite application the brakes squeal, under heavy application they go away. So the more pressure I apply to the pads, the less the vibration. The squeal is the vibration of metal on metal, so the first thing I wanted to do was to see if I could isolate what metal was vibrating against what metal. My thought was caliper on back of brake pad, but I first want to go after the easy stuff - so I applied a thin coat to the pins only. A light smear, spread evenly with my finger over the whole pin for each of the two pins. I then just buttoned it back up and took it out for an hour thru the neighborhood circuit. I could not get it to squeal once.
The temperature right now is a cool 14C (57F) and this could be a contributing factor. Rubber brake lines are less pliable in the cool weather so the application of my rear brake should transfer more of the pressure to the caliper than it might in warmer weather. This initial testing leads me to believe my squeal might be coming from the pads vibrating on the pins. Of course the better solution is to eliminate the vibration but if I can isolate where its coming from I think that will be helpful. If the squeal stays away for any period of time I may take the pins out and remove the anti-seize to make it come back - then apply to one pin at a time. Fingers crossed for progress, as I would love to take care of niggling items on this (or any) bike.
Just a quick entry for today.
Rode to work this morning, I have never had a squeal free morning until this morning. It was a nice ride, but its starting to get cooler - missing my hand guards and heated grips, they aren't required yet but I would have appreciated them if I had them this morning.
I am thinking at some point the squeal will return, either the anti-seize will wash or wear off, or it will otherwise be displaced. My thought is that the squeal for my bike is coming from the rear pin as the shim will force the leading edge to contact first. The trailing edge is allowed to chatter/vibrate against the pin and if the lines are weak it might even be possible that under light application the caliper piston could be pushed back in the caliper slightly as a result of the chatter/vibration on the trailing edge.
I need to test the anti-seize on pin at a time to see if the squeal is pin dependent, but I am satisfied that I can eliminate the squeal - if only for a few days (currently undetermined how long I can keep it at bay) - by adding lubrication to the pins. Tonight i will pull the pins and clean the pins and brake pad holes with a brake cleaner, then put them back in dry to test that the squeal comes back. That should be a quick test. Once confirmed I will lube the leading pin, retest; then remove the lube from the leading pin and apply lube to the trailing pin, and retest.
I hope to have some time to attempt this tonight, I have planned a set amount of studying and last nights had me finish early enough to tinker a bit.
Nice! Either way, at least you know it's fixable.
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on August 21, 2012, 09:16:43 AM
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I need to test the anti-seize on pin at a time to see if the squeal is pin dependent, but I am satisfied that I can eliminate the squeal - if only for a few days (currently undetermined how long I can keep it at bay) - by adding lubrication to the pins. Tonight i will pull the pins and clean the pins and brake pad holes with a brake cleaner, then put them back in dry to test that the squeal comes back. That should be a quick test. Once confirmed I will lube the leading pin, retest; then remove the lube from the leading pin and apply lube to the trailing pin, and retest.
...
Ok, so I managed to find some time to pull out the brakes and clean, calipers and pads (holes where the pins go thru) and pins with brake cleaner. Put it all back together and yesterday I rode to work with out a peep. Hmm, thinking the copper might have been crushed into the pin and pad making it a little smoother - but today I got squeal twice. So its back.
My manual showed up the other day so I am going to try a rear wheel alignment this weekend. I am also toying with the idea of creating pop can shims to try some different configurations - we'll see how ambitious I get.
Not much to post about, my exam is tomorrow and there hasn't been much time for messing with the bike. I did want to note that after the two squeaks/squeals noted above I haven't had any more occurrences of rear brake squeal.
I did have a hard brake episode on my ride last Friday - didn't expect the stop sign after a blind corner. I don't know if that shocked it into better alignment? Regardless, I don't plan on messing with it if it doesn't make sounds.
So this morning I was geared up and ready to ride the bike to work. Tried to fire it up and got a feeble attempt followed by clicking... Battery already? I hadn't rode the bike in a little over 2 weeks, I find that strange.
I picked up a battery tender and have it plugged in tonight. Rain expected for tomorrow and wednesday so I hope to get out on Thursday and Friday of this week.
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on October 01, 2012, 06:15:48 PM
So this morning I was geared up and ready to ride the bike to work. Tried to fire it up and got a feeble attempt followed by clicking... Battery already? I hadn't rode the bike in a little over 2 weeks, I find that strange.
I picked up a battery tender and have it plugged in tonight. Rain expected for tomorrow and wednesday so I hope to get out on Thursday and Friday of this week.
So the tender worked for me last fall, and I got to ride it a few more times. This monday it was time to shake off the cobwebs and get out for a ride to work. I had plugged it into the battery tender the day before and it showed fully charged... A few feeble start attempts, which I attributed to fuel and the fact it hadn't been started in months. I got nothing. Ended up taking off my jacket and taking the car to work.
After work I got home and gave the bike a little more attention. Took the battery out and it was light- really light. There was little to no water left in it. I went to the store and grabbed some distilled water and filled all 6? cells up and put the tender on it. Got back inside and took to google. Now I'm definitely not a battery guy but from what I read, boiling batteries is bad - so I checked mine out and it was bubbling pretty good in the garage. I unhooked it and called it done. A little more research tells me this isn't the battery that came with the bike. The one I had was a Hi Dash, not sure how long it had been in the bike.
Ordered a Motobatt sealed replacement battery tonight. It kinda sucked not to get out yesterday, but it's still a little chilly and it will be nice to get a good battery in the bike.
Quote from: Zacharia_11 on April 16, 2013, 05:15:31 PM
...
Ordered a Motobatt sealed replacement battery tonight. It kinda sucked not to get out yesterday, but it's still a little chilly and it will be nice to get a good battery in the bike.
Got the battery today after work, dropped it in and the bike basically fired right up so I took it out before dinner. For any Canadian's reading this, the Motobatt was ~107 after exchange conversion - but I owed another $50 when I picked it up from UPS for customs! Royal Distributing got back to me, they had the Ballistic LifeP04 instock for 156.99 + tax. My wife drives by it every day to and from work so she could have picked it up. It would have been ~177 for that option vs the ~157 for the motobatt. I think that if I knew that in advance I might have got the LifeP04 battery.
Either way, its in my bike and I am up and running. :thumb: