a reminder: I have a california model.
This means that I have extra PAIR(?) stuff attached to the carbs.
But.. I dont see any actual, additional anchor points.
in baltimoreGS's video, around 4:30, he makes it seem so each, to wiggle out the carbs.
but mine really seem tightly attached.
I've loosened the two round clampy thingies.. but it seems REALLY stuck in there, onto the engine. It barely moves when I try to "wiggle" it. Getting the airbox off was much easier.
I'm reluctant to use a crowbar or summat ;) any extra tricks I can use.?
Carbs are probably stuck to the carb boots.
Wiggle them a lot. Sprat some WD40 around there so it works its way in.
All recent bikes have the PAIR system. Maybe California got it on the bikes a year or two earlier.
Your sad thing is that "canister" thing - located under the battery box and attached to the 4th nipple on the gas tank. That gave you about a quart less gas in the tank. I bet more emissions and pollution were created when that canister thing was manufactured that it actually keeps out of the air.
Lately I have found the air box such a beetch to put back on the carbs that I remove the carbs and airbox as a unit. Works really easy!
huh.
I guess they just needed time to "unclench" :icon_mrgreen:
I went back after 10 mins, and they had spontaneously loosened up a bit.
Didnt have to use any assistance after all, chemical or otherwise.
The crab bowl SCREWS on the other hand, are set on being a pain.
I now have a geenuuine set of JIS screwdrivers.
I'm using a "#2".
Managed to loosen 3 out of 8.
But having difficulty loosening the rest of them. One I managed to slightly strip.. WITHOUT loostening it. Arg.
Any good hints? Seems like its so tight in there, dunno that any chemicals woul even manage to get in there...
ANd the wonderful california model, has an extra gizmo over one of the screws, with electronicy stuff, so I have to remove THAT first, somehow, too...
[Edit: ha. noticed a typo, about "crab bowls". But upon further reflection, leaving original spelling in :D ]
Use a hand impact driver to get the screws out. One tap with a hammer and it comes out with no stripping.
Use some PB Blaster or SeaFoam's DeepCreep.
Warm with a heat gun or hair dryer to help free them (expansion/contraction thing) and help get the penetrating stuff in there. A match or lighter could work. Be careful with flame - PB will burn. DeepCreep will not burn. (That's the main difference between them oh and DeepCreep doesn't stink as bad)
A tap with your screwdriver and a small mallet can loosen them up.
Impact screw driver can work. Be cautious of too much impact. That metal is not hardened steel. I remember old posts of someone doing that too hard and bent the carb bowls.
Grab the sides of the screws with really good pliers or vice grips WITH GOOD SHARP TEETH. Once out, replace with SS hex screws.
Quote from: adidasguy on August 20, 2012, 05:08:47 PM
Grab the sides of the screws with really good pliers or vice grips WITH GOOD SHARP TEETH. Once out, replace with SS hex screws.
Seeing as how I now HAVE JIS screwdrivers, what about just retightening them less tightly, if I actually get them out cleanly?
Contrariwise.. why replace with hex, instead of "regular" philips ones? Because you are wanting to give them more torque then philips ones would allow?
Hex is a whole lot less likely to strip.
JIS or Phillips heads are more subject to damage than allen heads.
Any screw with good dead is OK - even a hex bolt head.
Most people find allen head to be the best for least subject to future damage. If screw is stuck, it is easier to remove an allen head screw without damage than a phillips or JIS screw.
Stainless Steel just makes sense for lack of corrosion.
(Prior post I meant allen head rather then hex - which implies a bolt head)
I guess I had a CA model 02, and I ended up ripping the whole canister bull crap and extra hoses outta there, cause I live not in CA. Made me heppy. :laugh:
So then, according to
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Maintenance.FreeSeizedCarbScrews
I'd want to get
10 x M4x10mm
?
what are the 4 x M5x12mm for?
and, I was going to ask what kind of bits I need for an impact driver, but if I'm trashing the screw anyway, it doesnt matter?
Impact driver works, vice grips on the ones that strip out that you can get too, and drill the heads off the others.
Actually I found drilling the heads off the easiest and most effective method. What's left of the stud screws out easily.
4x M5x12mm screws are for the vacuum chamber caps on top of the carbs. They need to come off if you wish to shim the needles.
Stainless steel allen head screws are the go, with a bit of fiddling you can change jets without removing the carbs. You get good at it if you like to experiment lol..
I used a pair of needle-nose type vice grips. Got the screws out no problem. Destroyed them, so I ended up using the hex cap screws in the Buddha jet kit.