I have a 2007 gs500 that will only run with choke fully open and up to 1-2K rpms. Any more throttle and it dies until it is good and warm and then up to 5k. From reading other posts (most earlier gens) it would seem this is due to a clogged pilot. I tried running seafoam through, but it did not seem to help. I decided to dive into new territory, so I took the carbs apart from both sides and cleaned the needles and all six jets with carb cleaner and compressed air. While inspecting one of the 2 smaller jets, I noticed a white buildup on it, so I cleaned it more carefully under a microscope we have at work.
After putting it back together, the results are still the same. I'm guessing there is some passage way that is plugged also, but I am not sure?
Suggestions please!
Checked the vac lines and boots for air leaks?
I inspected them all and they look good. I have not performed a test on them as I do not have a vac gauge. Spraying carb cleaner around the area of the carbs had no effect.
Take the carbs off the bike and clean them the right way. One of the passages is probably partially clogged. Spray carb cleaner through all passages and orifices of the carbs, then use compressed air to blow them out.
Sorry if I didn't explain fully but I did have the carbs completely out, I just wasn't sure how to completely clean the passages. I did clean the jets and blew them out and one still had "gunk" in it that I only seen under magnification. Would the same be true for the passages and if so how do I clean them? I will not be able to examine the passages under magnification as I can bend the scope :icon_sad: Is there a diagram available of the passages for the newer carbs? I could not tell where the pilot passage was when looking at the carbs.
Thanks everyone for your responses.
Quote from: pardegt on September 04, 2012, 03:38:40 PM
Sorry if I didn't explain fully but I did have the carbs completely out, I just wasn't sure how to completely clean the passages. I did clean the jets and blew them out and one still had "gunk" in it that I only seen under magnification. Would the same be true for the passages and if so how do I clean them? I will not be able to examine the passages under magnification as I can bend the scope :icon_sad: Is there a diagram available of the passages for the newer carbs? I could not tell where the pilot passage was when looking at the carbs.
Thanks everyone for your responses.
Take all the rubber parts off the carbs and take the slides out, After you take the jets out of the carbs, just spray carb cleaner in every little crevice of the carbs....then blow out with compressed air.
you are missing the air fuel screws..If they have never been messed with then they will probably have a stupid little metal cap on them..It totally disguises them altogether. back them out all they way(use pressure as to not strip them!) out and clean the passageway underneath until you can spray carb cleaner into it and watch it go through the other side..then, after you put the screws back in and brin them to a light seat, back them out 2.5 turns...i always find it easier to count half turns...In that circumstance, it would be 5 half turns..
i acquired my 06 gs500f and the same problem was occuring..i opened the carbs up to find that everything was spotless but the air/fuel screws had been skipped/not noticed.
I would bet my money that you've looked over these..
Ok, great advice...and you're correct, I did not remove the air fuel screws. I will try removing them and cleaning the passages.
Also, When I pulled them apart the first time, I was hesitant to remove the floats as I was not sure if I would know how to reset them.
Yeah to meet their EPA specs, suzuki sets the air fuel very lean (sometimes only 1.25 turns out on each screw!!!) But at 2.5 turns out my bike starts with no choke every time and that's saying a lot considering i have stock jetting and a K&N air filter.
the float height will not change if you remove the floats..Just don't bend the little metal tab that the float valve(looks like a little missile with a rubber tip)hangs on..That is where float height is adjusted..
Also, a lot of people make the mistake of cleaning the jets but not concerning themselves with the passage ways that the jets spit into..Using that little red tube that comes with your carb cleaner is a must in clearing out these passageways.. You should be able to see carb cleaner come out of every one and shoot cleaner into the passageway from both directions (bowl side and manifold side) if you are having trouble with one of them..
GOOD LUCK and let us know how it turns out!
no pun intended with that last sentence..lol
Be sure to wear safety glasses when cleaning the passages with carb cleaner........I had a clogged passage and when I sprayed it in, it came right back at me and directly into my eye!!!! :mad: Hurt like hell for several hours
also be sure to read the safety instructions on the can of carb cleaner .. which likely say .. wear eye protection and do not inhale/concentrate vapours ... i'd mainly be looking at the eye protection notice tho.... eh craigs!? ;)
Quote from: Janx101 on September 04, 2012, 08:12:25 PM
also be sure to read the safety instructions on the can of carb cleaner .. which likely say .. wear eye protection and do not inhale/concentrate vapours ... i'd mainly be looking at the eye protection notice tho.... eh craigs!? ;)
LOL..... :technical:
Also, OP, did you remove the air jets from the airbox side opening of the carbs? There are two holes, one has a removeable jet. Use a small long flatehead screwdriver to remove it and clean the jets and passage really good with carb cleaner, compressed air. BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
... Sigh .... And safety glasses! :confused:
Quote from: Janx101 on September 05, 2012, 04:40:48 AM
... Sigh .... And safety glasses! :confused:
Fixed......... :icon_mrgreen:
lol..I have ran through so many cans of carb cleaner and every time i shoot myself in the eye at least once! You could say that i've gotten used to it; so much so that i don't even wash my eyes out after it happens..hahaha..OSHA would pick me apart if i owned a business.. :icon_lol:
You guys need to invest in a parts washer
yeeah..expensive, though!!!
Not really, $40 from Harbor Freight.
You can google a 20% coupon for your purchase. Order I have one if you want the code off of it.
Then go to eBay and bid/buy a 10% coupon for Lowes or s 20% for Home Depot and go by Mineral Spirits (not paint thinner) either by the gallon as you need it or by the drum (5 gals).
I have a 20 gallon washer from HF with the shelf and pump for years and its been great. I buy Mineral Spirits by the drum from Lowes.
These are some painted calipers for my truck I stripped in the parts washer, bead blasted and then powder coated.
(https://kh9pvq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pEXTUc8z2QADVSHhr5mXXsASKDnk-EyMj7z-q4oJORKZ3zcGWfdBKZA1F45AA-WLX2iW186_psDWypAMbDMlDf2aQWc8HHi8m/2012-05-14_00-37-45_601_wm.jpg?psid=1)
damn...i have to get one!
Trust me, theyre worth it. I love mine. I let a lot of things soak in it before I clean them. You can setup your own filtration system on them also so you dont have to change the fluids as much.
Quote from: bmxr123 on September 04, 2012, 05:09:41 PM
you are missing the air fuel screws..If they have never been messed with then they will probably have a stupid little metal cap on them..It totally disguises them altogether. back them out all they way(use pressure as to not strip them!) out and clean the passageway underneath until you can spray carb cleaner into it and watch it go through the other side..then, after you put the screws back in and brin them to a light seat, back them out 2.5 turns...i always find it easier to count half turns...In that circumstance, it would be 5 half turns..
i acquired my 06 gs500f and the same problem was occuring..i opened the carbs up to find that everything was spotless but the air/fuel screws had been skipped/not noticed.
I would bet my money that you've looked over these..
Ok, I give up...where are the air/fuel screws? Keep in mind, this is an 07. Thanks.
Another common source of carb malfunction is the O-rings on the vacuum outlets on top of the carbs. How do they look on your bike?
Quote from: pardegt on September 07, 2012, 06:15:25 PMOk, I give up...where are the air/fuel screws? Keep in mind, this is an 07. Thanks.
Under the brass plug that you need to drill out. ('07 carbs in photo)
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/drill.jpg)
Thanks for the replies and the pic and instructions as I did locate them but then was unsure how to remove the brass plug.
ggg...If you are referring to the little o-rings talked about so much next to the diaphragms, my bike does not have these. I believe those were on older models as the hole above this area is blind and the metal in the area is completely new, never showing signs that any o-ring has ever been there.
Also, I have 2 brass plugs per carb. The smaller dia one is in the protruding part of the case (air/fuel), the other larger dia one sits in the bottom of the fuel bowl just behind the air/fuel one. What is this one for?
Quote from: pardegt on September 08, 2012, 09:16:40 AMAlso, I have 2 brass plugs per carb. The smaller dia one is in the protruding part of the case (air/fuel), the other larger dia one sits in the bottom of the fuel bowl just behind the air/fuel one. What is this one for?
Often plugs are used after a port or passage of some sort is needed in the manufacture of the carb body, once the port/passage is drilled then they plug the hole, die casting can't do everything needed in the process of making the carb body.
I have an 08 and the screw is in the same location as the diagram. They were two brass plugs they had a tiny hole in the center if I remember correctly. Just added info, but I had a similar problem that I thought was the carbs but after I adjusted the valves clearance it runs great. My bike would backfire a bit when cold. The exhaust shims were too tight to spin in the bucket. Took three carb cleanings before I checked the valves.
Well, further teardown revealed the air/fuel screws to be fine, however, one of the needle valves on the float was all gunked up. Ended up getting a new needle valve as I messed up the original trying to get it out.
I got the bike to run but still have a few issues:
- Need a new gasket for one of the float bowls as it leaks badly
- gas built up in the air box and was coming out the vent hose which leads me to...
- what connects to the center rubber tee coming off the carbs (top is filter, bottom is fuel, center = ?)
The hose coming from the tee of the carbs is just a vent. It runs to the left above the airbox.