how does 22.5/60/140 seem for only installing a 9" open slip-on from Delkevic?
Are you only installing an exhaust? What about the air cleaner? I'd go 20 on the pilot, not 22.5.
If stock air cleaner: 20/60/140 3 turns out on mixture screw.
If K&N Lunchbox or pods: 20/65/145. 3 turns out on mixture screw.
If lean in the midrange, add 2 washers or 1 o-ring under needle.
Also, this is just a guide. No way is this 100% accurate, you may need to adjust based on your location. I run a lunchbox with stock exhaust. I'm 20/65/142.5 no washers, 3 turns out on the mixture screw. I live in Cincinnati, Ohio which is about 750-800 feet above sea level.
I'm in Columbus actually. But no, I'm not running a lunchbox. i'm having carb problems and i figured since i had to take my carbs apart anyway, i might as well throw on an exhaust to make it sound less like a kitten and more like a lion.
Buckeye, I wouldn't say a 'lion'. It is a 500, so maybe more like an angry kitten :dunno_black: :thumb:
Look on the Wiki (http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Rejetting). There are a TON of jetting examples. After reading through all of them, maybe that will give you an idea. Then go to Iron Pony and order some jets and you're good to go!
If only it were possible to do more than purr :sad:
My exhaust came in the mail today, so i'll start with your suggestions and see how it runs. After i get it running (tonight) i'll post some pics and probably a video of the sound. Thanks for the redirect!
slip on exhaust probably wont do a whole lot for the mixture, it will further lean it out, but not a whole lot. Expect the bike to be a little snappier (afterfire) when engine braking. As I've learned, putting on a new can only makes it sound better. (I love my akro's sound, but I'm sure it makes 0% more HP) If you want to use exhaust to make more power, you'll probably best off buying a bigger diameter full system and enlarging the EX outlet to match the new header pipe.
But making the bike sound better with a slip? I am totally for that. :icon_mrgreen:
Along with the 140, buy a 137.5 in case 140 is too rich. Stock is 130 for 2004+, and a conservative starting point for unaltered stock is 135. Having both 137.5 and 140 ensure that if you are too rich, you can go down a size.
Thanks for all the help guys! I got the slip-on on tonight! I haven't really run it except to take it around the block to make sure I didn't wiggle any of my clamps loose. I'm getting the bike to a garage to do the work on wednesday, so i will make sure to have a video of the sound up for you all soon. Tomorrows project is to put some frame- mounted turn signals on and do a major fenderectomy :D
Don't mean to hijack, however I was wondering if anybody knows the jet sizes in the dynojet stage 1 kit.
Next time, please start a new thread. Good thread etiquette here keeps topics on topic. But if you must know:
F Model: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3156.pdf
E Model: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3128.pdf
Now you are asking what Dynojet size compares to Mikuni? The answer is they use different jet size numbers. Here's a translator: http://www.4strokes.com/tech/carbjetxover.asp
I'd stick with Mikuni. Dynojet replaces the needle with an aggressively tapered one which alters the air/fuel flow quite a bit and therefore confuses stock Mikuni size comparisons.
thanks for the info! i will make a new thread next time