Quick and easy question....
What type, brand, and viscosity oil do you use in your bike?
The search function will help you to find a treasure trove of threads on this topic. Same with fuel and spark plugs too.
Suzuki OEM oil 10-40
Now switching to AmSoil 10-40. It makes things just a tiny bit better. Through a friend I get Amsoil for $35 a gallon.
Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil. Cheap, made for motorcycles (wet clutch protection), and available at advance auto parts. Zero problems so far.
Reason I ask...
I can turn a wrench, however primarily only done so on cars/trucks. Same basics and have no problem doing repair/maintenance. My Uncle took his bike to the shop today for the clutch slipping. They told him that due to the oil he was using (Valvoline 10w40) that it is not designed to use for wet sump situation on clutches. Now his clutch needs replaced. I did not see anything regarding this in my Clymer manual prior to using it in my bike (which I just changed the oil in as well and used Valvoline as this is what I run in all my vehicles). Want some insight on this so I know if I need to change my oil again.
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
Ive got Royal Purple in mine. I also use it in the engine and trans on my truck
Quotewet sump situation
btdubs, there are almost no dry sump vehicles on the road.
any oil that says "high milage" or "low friction" ie has friction modifiers in the oil is going to wreck the clutch operation.
if you do end up accidentally putting some in there, cleaning the clutch plates off with kerosene will probably bring them back to life.
however, this does involve some disassembly.
any full synthetic 10w-40 with no "special" indicators is going to be perfect for your bike.
I recommend against your typical mineral (dinosaur-based) oils, these bikes rely on oil for cooling and lubrication.
At the much higher temps where our bikes operate, being air cooled, typical dino-oil tends to break down, and it stops doing the latter of its jobs more quickly than temp-resistant synthetics.
I used to run full synthetic Mobil 1 in my car. Would this be ok to run?
Pretty much with the GS stick with 15w40 and find the oil that gives you the smoothest changes, and minimal oil consumption. I've run Mobil 1 and loved it, and I'll be putting Mobil 1 in my f800 which is a dry sump.
I run Shell Rotella 15W-40 in mine with no issues. It's good cheap oil that can be found at the local wally mart. I run Mobil 1 10W-50 in my KTM supermoto.
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 diesel conventional. Inexpensive and quality. Used it for years.
In very cold weather use 10w40 motorcycle oil.
How many miles on this bike?
I ran car oil... 10-40 for the first 15,000 miles or so, now Valvoline MC oil for the next 15,000....
So 30,000 miles and no clutch problem...
Cookie
Quote from: BRadGS on October 03, 2012, 04:04:41 PM
Reason I ask...
I can turn a wrench, however primarily only done so on cars/trucks. Same basics and have no problem doing repair/maintenance. My Uncle took his bike to the shop today for the clutch slipping. They told him that due to the oil he was using (Valvoline 10w40) that it is not designed to use for wet sump situation on clutches. Now his clutch needs replaced. I did not see anything regarding this in my Clymer manual prior to using it in my bike (which I just changed the oil in as well and used Valvoline as this is what I run in all my vehicles). Want some insight on this so I know if I need to change my oil again.
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
I have 6 bikes and they are all turn key, so my mileage is spread over riding 6 bikes, Mobil1 claims to have an anti corrosive additive for when bikes sit during the off season, some of my bikes have oil in them from 3 years ago (divide any and all mileage by 6) so...Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 in all of them.
(http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Images/logo_mobil.gif)
I'm with steve.... Racing 4t mobile. Gear changes are so smooth I hardly feel them.
Most 5W--30 and 10W-30 oils used in current US cars are energy conserving and have the friction modifiers in them making them unsuitable for our wet clutches. Most 10W-40 oils do not have the modifiers in them and are OK. Look for the API circle with viscosity grade in it for the energy conserving note.
(http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/tips/api2.gif)
I used Mobil 1 full synthetic 15W-50 for the first 50k miles in my 97 GS then switched to Rotella T 15W-40 dino juice. It ran cooler and held up just as well as the Mobil 1 did. I've only used the Rotella T or equivelant in my current 02 GS for it's full 97k miles. Rotella T has the JASO MA rating indicating it's approval for wet clutches.
Quote from: jestercinti on October 03, 2012, 07:30:48 PM
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 diesel conventional. Inexpensive and quality. Used it for years.
In very cold weather use 10w40 motorcycle oil.
I use the 15W-40 heavy duty aka truck aka diesel oils in my GS year around here in NE Ohio in temps down to 20F. Well actually I did up to a couple years ago when I cut it off at about 32F due to advancing years. Must be warmer down there in southern Ohio. :icon_lol:
Quote from: gsJack on October 03, 2012, 09:51:04 PM
Quote from: jestercinti on October 03, 2012, 07:30:48 PM
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 diesel conventional. Inexpensive and quality. Used it for years.
In very cold weather use 10w40 motorcycle oil.
I use the 15W-40 heavy duty aka truck aka diesel oils in my GS year around here in NE Ohio in temps down to 20F. Well actually I did up to a couple years ago when I cut it off at about 32F due to advancing years. Must be warmer down there in southern Ohio. :icon_lol:
Similar oil type. I use Rotella T truck oil.
Quote from: gsJack on October 03, 2012, 09:42:50 PM
Most 5W--30 and 10W-30 oils used in current US cars are energy conserving and have the friction modifiers in them making them unsuitable for our wet clutches. Most 10W-40 oils do not have the modifiers in them and are OK. Look for the API circle with viscosity grade in it for the energy conserving note.
(http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/tips/api2.gif)
I used Mobil 1 full synthetic 15W-50 for the first 50k miles in my 97 GS then switched to Rotella T 15W-40 dino juice. It ran cooler and held up just as well as the Mobil 1 did. I've only used the Rotella T or equivelant in my current 02 GS for it's full 97k miles. Rotella T has the JASO MA rating indicating it's approval for wet clutches.
weird i had used standard car oil in my gs' never had problems. also in my hd, and hte old bmw. but jack i take your word. you dont bs :)
Quote from: gsJack on October 03, 2012, 09:51:04 PM
Quote from: jestercinti on October 03, 2012, 07:30:48 PM
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 diesel conventional. Inexpensive and quality. Used it for years.
In very cold weather use 10w40 motorcycle oil.
I use the 15W-40 heavy duty aka truck aka diesel oils in my GS year around here in NE Ohio in temps down to 20F. Well actually I did up to a couple years ago when I cut it off at about 32F due to advancing years. Must be warmer down there in southern Ohio. :icon_lol:
Why yes it is warmer down here in Cincinnati. I used to live near Youngstown for a while. Colder in the Winter. 10W40 helps cranking in cold weather. You can use 15W40, but I found that for cold weather starts, 10W40 worked a bit better.
This last oil change I tried Castrol RS Racing 4T 10w-40. Shifting seems a bit rough. Will probably go back to Rotella T, it's a lot cheaper and the shifting is smoother.
Damn. I'm the only who uses RP then huh?
Quote from: BRadGS on October 03, 2012, 03:42:51 PM
Quick and easy question....
What type, brand, and viscosity oil do you use in your bike?
YAY ANOTHER OIL THREAD !!!!!
i only, and i mean ONLY use
whatever falls off the shelf into my basket
and / or is cheapest. O0
Quote from: BRadGS on October 03, 2012, 04:04:41 PM
Reason I ask...
I can turn a wrench, however primarily only done so on cars/trucks. Same basics and have no problem doing repair/maintenance. My Uncle took his bike to the shop today for the clutch slipping. They told him that due to the oil he was using (Valvoline 10w40) that it is not designed to use for wet sump situation on clutches. Now his clutch needs replaced. I did not see anything regarding this in my Clymer manual prior to using it in my bike (which I just changed the oil in as well and used Valvoline as this is what I run in all my vehicles). Want some insight on this so I know if I need to change my oil again.
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
Find a different shop; the one your uncle is using has no f%$king idea what they are talking about. You'd be *very* hard pressed to find a 10w40 that would cause slippage on a clutch that wasn't already failing.
More likely, the clutch lever or associated components are out of adjustment, preventing the clutch from fully engaging. This is a relatively common problem on the GS500.
Here's another thumbs up for Rotella T Triple Protection. Been running it in my gs for 22k miles without issue and in my 94 yz250.
Quote from: burning1 on October 04, 2012, 12:49:58 PM
Quote from: BRadGS on October 03, 2012, 04:04:41 PM
Reason I ask...
I can turn a wrench, however primarily only done so on cars/trucks. Same basics and have no problem doing repair/maintenance. My Uncle took his bike to the shop today for the clutch slipping. They told him that due to the oil he was using (Valvoline 10w40) that it is not designed to use for wet sump situation on clutches. Now his clutch needs replaced. I did not see anything regarding this in my Clymer manual prior to using it in my bike (which I just changed the oil in as well and used Valvoline as this is what I run in all my vehicles). Want some insight on this so I know if I need to change my oil again.
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
Find a different shop; the one your uncle is using has no f%$king idea what they are talking about. You'd be *very* hard pressed to find a 10w40 that would cause slippage on a clutch that wasn't already failing.
More likely, the clutch lever or associated components are out of adjustment, preventing the clutch from fully engaging. This is a relatively common problem on the GS500.
Agree.
Plus, it is not difficult to remove the right cover. Remove the clutch plates (what - 6 bolts there?). Then clean the plates in kerosene. Lastly, dip them in new oil and put back together.
I see no way the wrong oil would ruin the clutch plates. Maybe make them not work, but after cleaning and the correct oil they would be good as new.
Put in the right oil then adjust the clutch. Probably after a few miles all the right oil would have worked its way into the plates, displacing the wrong oil and things will work OK. Then if there is still a problem, then clean the plates.
I have been riding for 45 years and changing oil for 40 of those.After I bought my Vstrom new I used Honda 10-40 for about 3 years.Before that and for the last 2 years I have been useing whatever AUTO oil is on sale.I have NEVER had a oil related issue,EVER!!.Back in the 70's we would have sticky clutches when cold and some people said it was because of the additives in the oil!!,I don't know if that was true or not but we kept useing the same oil !!.
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I have mostly used Silkolene, and Castrol 10w 40 and had no issues. For my last oil change I decided to try Rotella T 15w 40. From day 1, it ran kind of rough and shifting gears became stiff to the point of painful especially towards the end of an hours commute. Finding neutral became dang near impossible and shifting from neutral to first in the morning caused a lurch in the bike. Within a few rides, I had enough and drained it out. Pep Boys had Valvaline 4t synthetic on sale cheap so i bought that and everything is smooth as silk now.
I am by no means saying Rotella is bad oil, as I have seen so many glowing reviews, but I think our engines can be a little picky about whats in them.
Quote from: craigs449 on October 03, 2012, 05:13:04 PM
I run Shell Rotella 15W-40 in mine with no issues. It's good cheap oil that can be found at the local wally mart. I run Mobil 1 10W-50 in my KTM supermoto.
I have 4 bikes, a pickup and a car. Run Rotella 15W-40 in all of them, Never had a problem.
I think I will try Chevron Delo 400 next time,I can get it by the gallon for free !!!.
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Quote from: NortwestRider on October 05, 2012, 04:47:08 PM
I think I will try Chevron Delo 400 next time,I can get it by the gallon for free !!!
Why not, changing yer oil on a regular basis is more important than what oil you use.
I use the old school castrol 10W-40 synthetic, cheap and very effective
At work when they change the oil in the refer units they bill it out by the gallon.It doesn't always take all of it so I get the left overs and in a week or two I have a gollon or more !!.Works for me !!!.
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Quote from: 89500inPA on October 05, 2012, 09:40:43 AM
I have mostly used Silkolene, and Castrol 10w 40 and had no issues. For my last oil change I decided to try Rotella T 15w 40. From day 1, it ran kind of rough and shifting gears became stiff to the point of painful especially towards the end of an hours commute. Finding neutral became dang near impossible and shifting from neutral to first in the morning caused a lurch in the bike. Within a few rides, I had enough and drained it out. Pep Boys had Valvaline 4t synthetic on sale cheap so i bought that and everything is smooth as silk now.
I am by no means saying Rotella is bad oil, as I have seen so many glowing reviews, but I think our engines can be a little picky about whats in them.
bull hockey.
if the bike is over filled, it will do this, every single time, no matter what you out in it.
rotella, delo, walmart special, redline, amsoil, will all run and protect the engines surfaces for the same number of miles... IF its changed regularly and not over filled.
there has NEVER been a gs engine failure diagnosed as caused by x brand of oil.
Gotta agree with that last sentence
Damn!
I was nearly ready to give up on this forum all together....
But there are still a few voices of reason out there!
Cookie
Quote from: ohgood on October 09, 2012, 05:50:21 PM
Quote from: 89500inPA on October 05, 2012, 09:40:43 AM
I have mostly used Silkolene, and Castrol 10w 40 and had no issues. For my last oil change I decided to try Rotella T 15w 40. From day 1, it ran kind of rough and shifting gears became stiff to the point of painful especially towards the end of an hours commute. Finding neutral became dang near impossible and shifting from neutral to first in the morning caused a lurch in the bike. Within a few rides, I had enough and drained it out. Pep Boys had Valvaline 4t synthetic on sale cheap so i bought that and everything is smooth as silk now.
I am by no means saying Rotella is bad oil, as I have seen so many glowing reviews, but I think our engines can be a little picky about whats in them.
bull hockey.
if the bike is over filled, it will do this, every single time, no matter what you out in it.
rotella, delo, walmart special, redline, amsoil, will all run and protect the engines surfaces for the same number of miles... IF its changed regularly and not over filled.
there has NEVER been a gs engine failure diagnosed as caused by x brand of oil.
Rotella T6 here. Can't really beat $21 a gallon for motorcycle oil. Well i suppose you could but it wouldnt be synthetic.
I also use it in my Legacy GT as MANY people with subies have seen fantastic results from it based on Blackstone Labs oils anaylsis and better oil consumption rates. It holds up much better with the turbo.
Quote from: mass-hole on October 10, 2012, 08:45:20 AM
Rotella T6 here. Can't really beat $21 a gallon for motorcycle oil. Well i suppose you could but it wouldnt be synthetic.
I also use it in my Legacy GT as MANY people with subies have seen fantastic results from it based on Blackstone Labs oils anaylsis and better oil consumption rates. It holds up much better with the turbo.
This what I use... I have noticed a sticky clutch when I start on cold morning in gear. I just throw it in neutral and fire-away.
Quote from: mass-hole on October 10, 2012, 08:45:20 AM
Rotella T6 here. Can't really beat $21 a gallon for motorcycle oil. Well i suppose you could but it wouldnt be synthetic.
I also use it in my Legacy GT as MANY people with subies have seen fantastic results from it based on Blackstone Labs oils anaylsis and better oil consumption rates. It holds up much better with the turbo.
$12 / gallon for rotella... I just beat your motorcycle specific oil with a bat.
oh god not oil analysis again! its a f%$king gs500! it doesn't f%$king matter what brand x oil does in a Subaru or the Titanic. the bike in question is
a gs500!
f%$k. check the valves when it don't start first tick over, change the oil every 3k, and adjust the chain. its not rocket surgery.
Ahmen brother !!!!!.
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People will always use what gives them the most peace of mind [LOCK THREAD]
castrol gtx 10w40 motorcycle oil
Well, I haven't bought any recently, so the price has likely gone up, but I think the last 5 quart bottle of Wallys-dang-mart SuperTech 10W40 was all of $7.99 - I expect the next will cost a bit more.
If it's 10W40 and has an API "full seal" its exactly as good as you'll ever need. (http://www.pca.state.mn.us/artwork/waste/oil-api-seal.gif) Anything beyond that is paying too much for advertising and probably comes out of the same tank. The upcharge for synthetic is mostly for advertising...
The turbo had some reason to waste money on synthetic, since the turbo bearing is unavoidably hot. The GS does not. It is a low tech engine, and wasting money on expensive oil is wasting money you could use to buy gas and ride the thing more. The cheapest oil that meets specs today is far better than what it was designed to run happily on in 1988 or whenever they actually designed the motor.
Buy oil you can afford to change, and change it when you should. That makes far more difference than what brand you have feelings for, or synthetic .vs. non.
Quote from: DoD#i on October 14, 2012, 07:37:01 PMBuy oil you can afford to change, and change it when you should. That makes far more difference than what brand you have feelings for, or synthetic .vs. non.
I'm not going to go real deep into it, but I will say I disagree with just about everything you said in that post. The price does not define the oil. Generally the cheap oils are loaded with cheap additives, and cheap synthetics aren't fully synthetic, but a $50/qt price tag does not make an oil exceptional. It all comes down to application. You touched that with the turbo comment (high temp/high shear index and all that good stuff).
That said, you are right in that there is absolutely no reason to buy an exotic $50/qt oil for the GS500.
Quote from: RossLH on October 14, 2012, 07:56:15 PM
Quote from: DoD#i on October 14, 2012, 07:37:01 PMBuy oil you can afford to change, and change it when you should. That makes far more difference than what brand you have feelings for, or synthetic .vs. non.
I'm not going to go real deep into it, but I will say I disagree with just about everything you said in that post.
its OK to disagree, since the gs500 engine ( or any engine really) doesn't care if you spent $50 / ounce or $50 / 55 gallon drum. if your hang up is on his cheap the additives are, do some research and find the "expensive" additives, where they're produced, and to whome they are sold.
while you're doing that, folks will ride and enjoy a very low maintenance machine.
Quote from: RossLH on October 14, 2012, 07:56:15 PM
I'm not going to go real deep into it, but I will say I disagree with just about everything you said in that post.
P.T. Barnum knew you'd be born, and you were. You are essential to many business models.
There must be hundreds of types/makes of oil available that is suitable for the GS5. Is anyone likely to be influenced by anothers personal choice?......more to the point does anyone actually care what someone elses personal choice is?
Quote from: DoD#i on October 15, 2012, 06:47:09 AMP.T. Barnum knew you'd be born, and you were. You are essential to many business models.
Subtle. I research the physical properties of oil and religiously send both used and unused oil samples to Blackstone Labs before considering price, and that makes me a sucker? That's quite the stance you have on education.
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 08:59:04 AM
Quote from: DoD#i on October 15, 2012, 06:47:09 AMP.T. Barnum knew you'd be born, and you were. You are essential to many business models.
Subtle. I research the physical properties of oil and religiously send both used and unused oil samples to Blackstone Labs before considering price, and that makes me a sucker? That's quite the stance you have on education.
no, that doesn't make you a sucker. that makes you a sucker, THRICE.
blackstone labs (unused) sample = once
blackstone labs (used) sample = twice
worrying about physical properties of oil = thrice
there may be more sucker procedures you're enjoying, like $18/ each sparkplugs, or using a HEPA filter on your intake, only using "premium" fuel, nitrogen in your tires, replacing the frame every 2,000 'hard' miles, or any one of many other un needed expenses.
seriously though... if blackstone labs says your x metal count is too high, will you disassemble the engine and replace all the bearings ? what is the point of testing if you will not ?
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 09:29:13 AMseriously though... if blackstone labs says your x metal count is too high, will you disassemble the engine and replace all the bearings ? what is the point of testing if you will not ?
Wow. Because you're clearly intent on being ignorant, I'm just going to answer this one question. Used oil analysis is useful for determining whether you're using an appropriate oil, determining proper oil change intervals (because people who change their oil at 3000 miles are true suckers), and if something significantly changes from one oil change to the next, you can pinpoint a problem far before it sneaks up on you.
Its a sullen day when seeking information makes a person a sucker.
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 10:01:14 AM
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 09:29:13 AMseriously though... if blackstone labs says your x metal count is too high, will you disassemble the engine and replace all the bearings ? what is the point of testing if you will not ?
Wow. Because you're clearly intent on being ignorant, I'm just going to answer this one question. Used oil analysis is useful for determining whether you're using an appropriate oil, determining proper oil change intervals (because people who change their oil at 3000 miles are true suckers), and if something significantly changes from one oil change to the next, you can pinpoint a problem far before it sneaks up on you.
Its a sullen day when seeking information makes a person a sucker.
aha! no real answers just side stepping and condescending tones.
I guess that's a no.
That was a very straightforward answer to your question. But if you really want me to spoon feed it to you, fine. I daily drive a turbocharged car that is very notorious for spinning rod bearings, and I like to have fun with it. You damn well better believe I keep a close eye on things. And yes, if I suddenly start seeing copper levels rise I'll be putting money aside for a full scale engine build.
Well you see, that has about nothing to do with a GS, which is the beast under discussion, and I find that the "new bike" kitty grows a lot faster when I don't overspend on oil advertising, then spend another $25 to test the new oil, and then spend another $25 to see if I "could" run $5-10 worth of oil a bit longer rather than just change it out for fresh stuff. Picking the right oil is Suzuki's job, I let them take care of that. Making it meet the standards is the oil company's job, I let them do that. Changing it as specified so the assumptions made in those calculations are valid is my job, so I do that.
I just put money away on faith that it won't last forever, and I have more money to put away if i don't go chasing after expensive information that's mostly irrelevant. 6 oil changes at your desire for information will buy a used GS engine...and I don't think anybody who actually keeps oil in it has killed a GS engine in 18,000 miles in a manner that would have been different if they had analyzed their oil. Lord knows mine has been owned by some idiots before I got it, but it's still going strong at 121,000. Valve clearance matters a whole lot more to GS longevity than how much money you sent to Blackstone labs (who are quite happy to have you, I'm sure.)
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 10:45:05 AM
That was a very straightforward answer to your question. But if you really want me to spoon feed it to you, fine. I daily drive a turbocharged car that is very notorious for spinning rod bearings, and I like to have fun with it. You damn well better believe I keep a close eye on things. And yes, if I suddenly start seeing copper levels rise I'll be putting money aside for a full scale engine build.
great! more condescending attitude! if it makes you feel good or superior, have at it.
back to points again.... so, how do you determine when its time to test the oil again, you know, to determine when the next oil change should be? twice a month? twice a year? manufactures recommended duration for testing? ...... oh wait..... there isn't one.
hmm, get your spoon back out and feed me again, as to how testing intervals are determined.
I send a sample of the used oil every time I change the oil. The oil change interval is determined by the degradation of the oil (thus why the unused sample was needed). Every oil is different, every driver is different, and every engine is different. I tend to beat on my car pretty consistently, so the OCI doesn't really change, though it is much higher than most would expect. Also, for the record, I've been a Blackstone customer since the tests were free, and even now I pay next to nothing for tests.
As for the bike....DoD is right, none of this applies. As I said earlier, there is no reason to go crazy with the oil in an old GS500.
good lord, I believe a testing snob just confirmed that
testing isn't necessary
and
oil change intervals don't change
and
they won't actually tear down an engine if the testing says its almost dead.
awesome, and its only Monday!
( if there was a "thanks" button on tapatalk for this forum, I would have pressed it for your reply )
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 11:36:57 AM
good lord, I believe a testing snob just confirmed that
testing isn't necessary
and
oil change intervals don't change
and
they won't actually tear down an engine if the testing says its almost dead.
awesome, and its only Monday!
Not at all. Conversely, you've just proven your reading comprehension is suffering. I recommend testing for oil change intervals to everyone who thinks changing their oil every 3k or 5k miles is necessary. Once you've determined an interval, feel free to stop with the tests, but in the long run you can save a lot of money knowing your oil is consistently good for 12000-15000 miles. Oil change intervals don't typically change, but for every car, driver, and oil, the interval will be different.
Also, read this again, you seem to have missed it:
QuoteAnd yes, if I suddenly start seeing copper levels rise I'll be putting money aside for a full scale engine build.
In summation:
Used oil analyses are not
absolutely necessary, but I recommend them to everyone in order to determine their optimal change interval.
Oil intervals don't typically change, but they can be much longer than the industry would like you to think. That brings us back to the used oil analyses.
If a used oil analysis shows my bearings are going bad, I
will be tearing down the engine to do a full scale engine build.
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 11:46:53 AM
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 11:36:57 AM
good lord, I believe a testing snob just confirmed that
testing isn't necessary
and
oil change intervals don't change
and
they won't actually tear down an engine if the testing says its almost dead.
awesome, and its only Monday!
Not at all. Conversely, you've just proven your reading comprehension is suffering. I recommend testing for oil change intervals to everyone who thinks changing their oil every 3k or 5k miles is necessary. Once you've determined an interval, feel free to stop with the tests, but in the long run you can save a lot of money knowing your oil is consistently good for 12000-15000 miles. Oil change intervals don't typically change, but for every car, driver, and oil, the interval will be different.
Also, read this again, you seem to have missed it:
QuoteAnd yes, if I suddenly start seeing copper levels rise I'll be putting money aside for a full scale engine build.
In summation:
Used oil analyses are not absolutely necessary, but I recommend them to everyone in order to determine their optimal change interval.
Oil intervals don't typically change, but they can be much longer than the industry would like you to think. That brings us back to the used oil analyses.
If a used oil analysis shows my bearings are going bad, I will be tearing down the engine to do a full scale engine build.
nah, I'm just picking the parts I like, and enjoying the contradictions as you go.
keep talking!
Feel free to explicitly point out any contradictions. So far you've managed to call me a sucker for seeking real information, completely failed to read my answers to your questions, and then accuse me of contradicting myself. If you're going to continue to beat around the bush, I'm done here.
I've been running UOA on my BMW since I bought it.
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325443
I found a broken clutch plate on the bike. I'm hoping that the ALU levels will fall to normal on the next change.
The GS500 follow the universal law of oil priorities. Your priorities are:
The engine has oil
The engine has fresh oil
The engine has good oil
For what it's worth, a good quality group IV synthetic oil will burn much slower than a Goup IV synthetic, Group III synthetic or Group II conventional oil. That alone might be worth the cost of admission.
Mobil1 in my lawn mower!! :woohoo:
You are all arguing about an engine designed in the late 1980s which was warmed over from the gs4xx engine from the 70s.
Oil has come a long way since then. Don't sweat it. But oil from a good brand, change it often, and forget about it.
It's not a Bugatti Veyron. Who cares.
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Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 12:36:04 PM
Feel free to explicitly point out any contradictions. So far you've managed to call me a sucker for seeking real information, completely failed to read my answers to your questions, and then accuse me of contradicting myself. If you're going to continue to beat around the bush, I'm done here.
Same thing happened to the thread on Brisk spark plugs. It evolved into a lot of typical internet petty bickering from people late at night with nothing better to do. People give opinions on what they use then it degrades into petty squabbling of everyone criticizing everyone else for stating their opinion. Like a preschool temper tantrum.
People will always say you're wasting money on anything a little better, be it: Shorai batteries, Brisk plugs, LEDs, handle bars, mirrors, tires, and now oil.
I would tend to say that for normal riding (not racing) any good oil will be fine. Change it when needed. My dealer says stock Suzuki oil is great. They also say Amsoil is really good if going synthetic.
I now started using Amsoil and do find engine seems to shift better and run better. Maybe it is just a perception because I cleaned the clutch plates at the same time. anyway, I'm switching each bike to Amsoil when each gets its next oil change.
A mechanic expert (bikes, airplanes, etc.) that owns Palouse Winery on Vashon Island swears by Amsoil.
Unfortunately, this is the internet. At least this site isn't full of assholes like PNWriders.com - talk abouut never getting an answer to a simple question.
To the OP: THIS is why you don't start an oil thread on a car/bike forum!
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 12:36:04 PM
Feel free to explicitly point out any contradictions. So far you've managed to call me a sucker for seeking real information, completely failed to read my answers to your questions, and then accuse me of contradicting myself. If you're going to continue to beat around the bush, I'm done here.
its OK to feel like a sucker, but being a clown should be left to professionals. does your clown suit interfer with scrolling?
Quote from: adidasguy on October 15, 2012, 01:59:57 PM
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 12:36:04 PM
Feel free to explicitly point out any contradictions. So far you've managed to call me a sucker for seeking real information, completely failed to read my answers to your questions, and then accuse me of contradicting myself. If you're going to continue to beat around the bush, I'm done here.
Same thing happened to the thread on Brisk spark plugs.
but, when there are dyno charts that prove zero difference , why not just admit you've been taken?
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 04:21:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on October 15, 2012, 01:59:57 PM
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 12:36:04 PM
Feel free to explicitly point out any contradictions. So far you've managed to call me a sucker for seeking real information, completely failed to read my answers to your questions, and then accuse me of contradicting myself. If you're going to continue to beat around the bush, I'm done here.
Same thing happened to the thread on Brisk spark plugs.
its OK to feel like a sucker, but being a clown should be left to professionals. does your clown suit interfer with scrolling?
but, when there are dyno charts that prove zero difference , why not just admit you've been taken?
I have been noticing a lot of animosity from "OhGood" lately. Maybe something happened in his/her/it's life to cause this. Some of the comments are out of line and really insulting to the OP.
Best from now on to not respond to an "ohgood" postings.
Remeber my disclaimer ????.
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Quote from: adidasguy on October 15, 2012, 05:20:50 PM
Best from now on to not respond to an "ohgood" postings.
I suggest you do what most of the long serving members do and dont start or respond to any "What oil/plugs/filters/battery" type posts from anyone on the basis they always turn into a who can piss up the wall the highest contest.
I dont give a rats about what oil/plugs/filters/battery someone else uses or thinks is the best and I dont expect anyone else to give a rats about what I use or think is the best....its a shame others dont share the sentiment.
Quote from: adidasguy on October 15, 2012, 05:20:50 PM
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 04:21:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on October 15, 2012, 01:59:57 PM
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 12:36:04 PM
Feel free to explicitly point out any contradictions. So far you've managed to call me a sucker for seeking real information, completely failed to read my answers to your questions, and then accuse me of contradicting myself. If you're going to continue to beat around the bush, I'm done here.
Same thing happened to the thread on Brisk spark plugs.
its OK to feel like a sucker, but being a clown should be left to professionals. does your clown suit interfer with scrolling?
but, when there are dyno charts that prove zero difference , why not just admit you've been taken?
I have been noticing a lot of animosity from "OhGood" lately. Maybe something happened in his/her/it's life to cause this. Some of the comments are out of line and really insulting to the OP.
Best from now on to not respond to an "ohgood" postings.
only when provoked homie. I'm the first guy to jump up and help as needed. condescend, or ridicule instead of help, and ill give as I get.
when information is misleading, like installing dampners instead of fixing wheel bearings and/or wheel bearings, someone should point out root causes.
when oil is blamed for poor running conditions, and around the block tests instead of common sense, that new guys money is being blown.
when overpriced snake oil is touted as great, some schmuck on a gs is going to believe it and loose some faith in the community.
gstwins has been the most factual and helpful online resource I've seen. if you can't handle a spoonful (hey look spoon feeding again! ) of common sense spread to new riders, maybe its time for a change.
its not gixxer.com for a reason. there is no spark plug to gain you 10 hp, or magic oil test to tell you third gear is about to assplode.
keeping it simple and weeding out the bullshit is what were here to do.
now then, anyone that thinks I need to be ignored or a banning, go ahead. maybe they're right. I'm going for a ride anyway.
:)
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 06:41:38 PMkeeping it simple and weeding out the bullshit is what were here to do.
When "weeding out the bullshit" involves dismissing hard facts, there's something terribly wrong. If you're here to dismiss hard facts, you're in no position to be calling anyone a clown.
Hey what brand of antifreeze do you guys recommed for my wifes GS500.??
It's a 94 if that matters.
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Dexcool. Lots and lots of Dexcool.
Ethylene glycol all the way.
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Whatever you want. Hell use the cheapest if it works for you
Sent from my shitter
Quote from: RossLH on October 15, 2012, 07:24:37 PM
Quote from: ohgood on October 15, 2012, 06:41:38 PMkeeping it simple and weeding out the bullshit is what were here to do.
When "weeding out the bullshit" involves dismissing hard facts, there's something terribly wrong. If you're here to dismiss hard facts, you're in no position to be calling anyone a clown.
thanks. my point was made wayyyyy up there. if you can't see it or accept it, reassess your own comprehension and positions.
I thought you were "done"? more contradictions to come? just can't let go?
cool, ill wait. keep em coming! :-)
Quote from: NortwestRider on October 15, 2012, 07:37:01 PM
Hey what brand of antifreeze do you guys recommed for my wifes GS500.??
It's a 94 if that matters.
Everclear. :cheers:
Thanks for the (mostly) informative and (mostly) civil discussion on oil, gents. I'm doing my first oil change on my GS and I think I'm going to try and go for Amsoil or that Mobil 1 synthetic race oil after I clean off the clutch plates. I've been having an issue of shifting down into first after a longer ride, so I'm going to do an oil change, check out the clutch plates and the clutch adjuster pins. Anyways, thanks for the info!
Or, you could do what I did...Go to Kroger for dog food, and stumble on this excellent deal on 10W40 oil. 2 for $4. It's not Suzuki brand, but I'll run it in my bike since there are no Friction Modifiers. Bought the store out of 10W40 since there was no limit:
(http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii569/jestercinti/Oildeal.jpg)
Quote from: jestercinti on November 02, 2012, 12:30:24 PM
Or, you could do what I did...Go to Kroger for dog food, and stumble on this excellent deal on 10W40 oil. 2 for $4. It's not Suzuki brand, but I'll run it in my bike since there are no Friction Modifiers. Bought the store out of 10W40 since there was no limit:
Back when I was dicking around with air cooled 1600cc VW's and Baja's, Volkswagen called out Castrol by name in the owners manuals as the oil to use :thumb:
I'll go a step further BMW calls for me to use Castro oils and bp fuels in my bike, (bp owns castrol) but I've switched to Mobil 1.
Quote from: slipperymongoose on November 02, 2012, 05:30:51 PM
I'll go a step further BMW calls for me to use Castro oils and bp fuels in my bike, (bp owns castrol) but I've switched to Mobil 1.
Mobil1 is the opposite of
"the cheapest oil you can find" :bstar: <neverusedthestarbefore!
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx)
That it is the opposite lol. Gear changes are slick now. Engine is quieter, but my bike is efi n such, but mister has it in his GS and hornet cause we get our bikes serviced by the same bloke.
Quote from: slipperymongoose on November 02, 2012, 06:36:36 PM
That it is the opposite lol. Gear changes are slick now. Engine is quieter, but my bike is efi n such, but mister has it in his GS and hornet cause we get our bikes serviced by the same bloke.
I use it in all 6 of my bikes, lawn mower, pressure washer, garden tractor, both Honda cars, I have about
$50,000 USD in just my cars alone, Mobil1 really doesn't cost that much :whisper:
Yeah we'll I'm a fan here
I have tried Mobile 10/40w regular motorcycle oil and 10/40 synthetic which my bike don't like. My bike runs and shifts best with castrol 20-50w motorcycle regular oil.