Well, there was a reason why I came in here to post a question....what was it?
Oh yeah, here goes.
I have an 07 500F. I am putting it back together after discovering that the crankcase end bolt was loose as a goose, thereby causing the engine not to turn over when the starter button is pushed. (rotor/gear is spinning on end of crankshaft instead of turning it) I understand all of that.
Here is what I find interesting/perplexing. The *rotor* is threaded in addition to the crankshaft end. There are two flats inside of the rotor, presumably to hold it with a wrench. I do not have a service manual (yet). I am curious about what the *factory recommended* procedure/sequence is for re-attaching the rotor. Is it possible that the rotor is supposed to serve as a sort of "locking nut" and there is more to this thing than simply running the bolt through and tightening it to 120 lbs.? Anyone see where I am coming from on this or am I just not seeing the forest for the trees?
Thanks....I am now off to the parts store to get either a tube of red locktite or the product they make for use on bearing races to help keep them in place. Whichever one I get is going to be (conservatively) applied to the crankshaft end taper.
It's been great fun so far but I don't plan on going through this again in another couple of months! I am also considering heating the rotor before putting it back on...nothing radical, maybe put it in the toaster oven at 300 degrees for a bit! (I'm sure my wife will appreciate that!)
-OT-
The threading on the end of the rotor is to remove it.
By the Haynes manual, you insert a 36mm spacer into where the rotor bolt goes. Then use am M14 x 1.5 bolt screwed into the alternator. Keep from spinning with a thin 22mm wrench on the flat sides as you observed. Screw in the bolt. It presses on the spacer and pulls off the rotor (Haynes manual chapter 8 ) .
There you have it. That's all the threads in the end of the magneto are for ----- REMOVAL ONLY.
NOTHING ON THE TAPERED SHAFT! Clean and spotless - no grease (though I lightly scored it with some 800 grit going in and out). Use BLUE threadlock on the bolt. Do not use red and do NOT put any on the shaft!
Make sure there are no metal bits at all clinging to the magnets.
No on the toaster oven. Maybe warm with a hair dryer if you want to but 300* probably would damage the magnets and the glue holding them on.
Torque the bolt to 110-130 nm (not foot pounds! Convert to ft/lbs if your torque wrench doesn't read nm.) That's 81-96 ft lbs.
oh, and GET A HAYNES MANUAL! (Somewhere it has been found on-line. Though older edition, 96% is the same).
One last thing: READ the back of the bottle of thread lock. Note the time it takes to cure. DO NOT put oil in or turn on the bike until it is cured. OK, you can BLIP the starter button to see things turn BUT THAT's ALL! 1/8 second won't hurt anything. I waited zero minutes time #1. Paid the price. Time #2 I waited 24 hours THEN put the covers on, oil and ran the bike.
Not in the book, but I did do a terrible sin: put an allen wrench between the starter gear and the idler so the thing would not turn clockwise then gave the rotor bolt a hit with my harbor freight impact wrench just for good measure.
Heat and Loctite wont rectify an underlying problem. The accepted method to deal with flywheels that loosen off is to lap the flywheel to the shaft and get a perfect fit between the two tapers and to replace the bolt which may have stretched and/or have a scored/deformed shoulder.
Do it properly and have piece of mind or just tighten it up and hope for the best.......your call :thumb:
Hey Adidas, Sledge, thanks for your input on this.
Sledge, no argument from me on the points you raised. If the bolt wasn't stretched before it may very well be *now*!
Adidas, thanks for clarification on recommended torque, I would have *sworn" I read 120 ft.lbs. somewhere. Moot point though, my "trained feel" tells me that sucker would probably twist in two if tightened that much. My torque wrench only goes to 75 ft.lbs and I would never trust it at the extreme hi or low of the range even though it has always been properly cared for. I used a pull-handle and bumped the back of it with a hammer as I was pulling it the last bit....it's tight, so, we'll see! I used a jack handle under the swingarm passed through the rear wheel to hold it in 6th gear
Going to let it sit at least overnight before even turning it over at all.
Oh, I did manage to blow the damn rollers and springs out of the hub with high pressure air....lucky I found all the pieces or I would have been calling on you for some parts I guess!
You got an extra gasket laying around? If this one "seeps" I won't be surprised.
Thanks Again,
-OT-