Hi all,
So I just bought a 2000 gs500e off of craigslist, long story short it failed emissions. It has a Vance and Hanes exhaust and a k&n lunchbox filter. I'm FAIRLY sure that the carbs have not been rejetted. Would rejetting help it pass emissions? I turned the fuel/air screw so it is out 2 1/2 turns but it idles at like 4k, don't think they will test it like that. Any ideas? Any other arizona gs riders out there?
Wow....glad we dont have that crap out here.
What exactly did you fail?
both hydrocarbons and co2, here were the ratings:
HCs: should be at 1800 ppm @ idle, i was at 2225
CO2: should be at 5.5 % @ idle, i was at 8.5
any ideas?
Only thing I can think of is the normal stuff like going over vac leaks and dialing in the carbs. The problem is you dont know where you are at until you re-test.
I don't think the bike would run very well at all if it wasn't rejetted with a full exhaust and lunchbox.
I'm not sure where the baseline level of CO2 and HCs would be for a properly running stock GS500 would be, but I'm guessing that they would at least past inspection. In some states there are exceptions for older vehicles. Maybe since your's is a 2000 the standard is a bit higher.
Things to try:
Check the jetting. Report back and let us know what jets are running, and those here can let you know if it's too rich
Replace spark plugs
Make sure you properly tune your idle mixture screw and idle speed screw. Try it a little on the lean side to help with emissions. Less turns out equals leaner. Give it the least turns out that you can while achieving a steady idle with no hanging at 1200 rpm with the bike fully warm. (You will have to use the choke to get it to idle before it's warm).
Run some Seafoam through the gas and make sure you have some fresh gas before the next test.
Thanks for the ideas bombsquad83,
I have a dynojet stage 1-3 kit coming, should be here tomorrow. just going off of the gs rejetting table thing on the wiki page, i'm thinking of going with a 40 pilot, 150 main, and 3 turns. would this be accurate?
I saw that one on craigslist too and live here locally. The one with the dented tank? I talked the guy down to 1000$ and had plans to buy but decided a trip to sedona was gonna be more fun. The guy had told me the carbs were out of synch maybe something you should look at?
haha yep! thats the bike, you have any ideas?
Are you using it as your daily driver? If not I would take apart and see if there was ever a jet kit installed on it. If not then probably go ahead with doing that if there was then maybe look into getting a carb syncher. You could always take it to a local mechanic and tell them you dont know whats wrong with it and just want it diagnosed. Free advice haha.
I would not suggest using the dynojet kit. It requires irreversible modification of the carb slides, and some have had less success tuning with the dynojet needle vs. just using washers under the stock needle and changing the jets.
Somewhere in the 145-150 range should be good for your setup with a full exhaust and lunchbox. Since you live in the desert where it is typically hot and dry, you might be better served with smaller main jets.
40 pilots are good, but stock 37.5 might be serviceable. Number of turns out varies from bike to bike. 3 turns is a good starting point.
Carb sync can probably effect emissions, so I would work on that too.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on November 07, 2012, 07:33:20 PM
I would not suggest using the dynojet kit. It requires irreversible modification of the carb slides, and some have had less success tuning with the dynojet needle vs. just using washers under the stock needle and changing the jets.
+1 on the dynojet. I could never get my bike to run right, even with just a stage 1 in and relatively stock set-up (uni filter and slip on can). Had to buy new slides and go back to mikuni jets and stock needles. Some people have done okay with it I think, but I did a bunch of tuning and couldn't get it running at all to my liking.
ok, thanks for the heads up on the jet kit. And this might be a dumb question but I keep hearing about the washers and I have no idea where to get these washers or if they are just generic washers or what. Like I said, most likely a stupid question but any info would be great. Thanks to everyone so far for helping me out.
I guess I'll burst the bubbles like an old geezer.
If you have emissions tests (which we DO NOT HAVE in WA for motorcycles! Yea!!) then your best best to pass would be:
1. Have a certified mechanic with test equipment put the bike in shape to pass
2. or return as close to original as possible
Reading the Suzuki service manuals, things like the mixture screw are factory set "with specialized equipment".
You can modify, change jets, do all kinds of things. Most of these things improve performance and torque at the expense of fuel economy and emissions.
If you are 100% stock, you have a better chance of passing. Remember the bikes run lean just for emissions. When I was in states that had emissions (well, WA does for cars) they had exceptions that if the vehicle was stock and you did not pass emissions, you could spend up to X dollars (like $300 or something for a car) to get it corrected and if you proved you spend that amount and it still did not pass, you had an exemption.
So sounding like an old geezer and a paranoid person, go back to stock to pass. No modifications.
Once you pass, do what you want. If you have periodic testing, then maybe 2 sets of carbs and air box: one stock that passes and one you use every day.
Your other choice is move to Washington where bikes are not tested.
Quote from: hrm290 on November 07, 2012, 02:57:25 PM
both hydrocarbons and co2, here were the ratings:
HCs: should be at 1800 ppm @ idle, i was at 2225
CO2: should be at 5.5 % @ idle, i was at 8.5
any ideas?
i passed em in hte past in az when i lived in phoenix attending mmi. by using alcohol in hte fuel. leans it the hell out. have enough to run hte test. pull out of parking area go down a ways and add gas to it
or as adidas said 2 sets of carbs, ( one sit. NON stock for every day use, and one for testing. ) would work great. hell wished i could live in WA. close to canada, close to coast, all sorts of fun to be had.
Quote from: hrm290 on November 07, 2012, 02:57:25 PM
both hydrocarbons and co2, here were the ratings:
HCs: should be at 1800 ppm @ idle, i was at 2225
CO2: should be at 5.5 % @ idle, i was at 8.5
any ideas?
Going by the numbers, I'd guess your bike runs rich ... if you live at a location significantly above sea level the lower density altitude may compound a rich-running condition caused by re-jetting (by a previous owner) to compensate for an after market exhaust/intake set-up.
What do the plugs look like ?
Go back to stock or take it to a certified emissions mechanic and have him/her tweak the emissions. Pay attention to the mixture screws. That's most likely the culprit.
In Ohio, only certain locations have Emissions (Cleveland for instance), and all they look for is your check engine light and a gas cap pressure test on 1996+, 1995 and prior, they use some rod type thing in the tailpipe and drive 20 MPH. Motorcycles and diesel engines exempt. Like WA, you were given a dollar amount allotment to spend to try to get your 1978 Buick Regal up to code. After that, they left you alone for a while. Some states like CA allow motorcycles to modify engine settings after a certain mileage...7000 I think.
hey all,
so put a new set of plugs in it, pair of ngk DPR8EA-9's and it runs beautifully. I'm pretty sure that the plugs that were in it were the wrong ones. I swear if it just needed plugs i'm gonna be pretty upset with myself and if so, sorry for wasting everyone's time. Going to the emissions place today, fingers crossed.
well that sort of helped.
First idle test: HC's were at 2635 (higher than last time)
CO2 was at 5.46 (lower than last time and passing)
after rev session for 30 sec
HCs went up to 2801 and CO2 went to 5.86 (both failing)
Calling local shops now