Hey guys, new here, but been lurking for a while, and figured you guys could help me.
I noticed my chain was loose, so loosened rear axle, hammered out the chain adjuster plates flat (they were bent) and tightened the chain. I torqued the rear axle down to spec (usually around 75nm) according to my torque wrench, but the chain still loosens (3" of play) and bends the chain adjuster plate. When I notice it's loose, I do the whole think over again. The chain wont stay tight enough for spec for more than 100 miles.
What the heck is going on?? Do I need to torque my axle down more, (close to 90-100nm) or do I need to get a new chain?
Thanks so much
Got the same thing going on here... need answers... chain is slippin. I ordered new adjusters for the back.
If they are bent, replace them. Make sure to do it on the center stand with the wheel in the air. I usually adjust, sit behind the bike with the tire between my legs, and give it a tug. Then look at the marks, make sure they are where I want them, tug the wheel a few more times to be sure, then tighten the axle. just my 2 cents.
The plates are only for holding the alignment until you tighten the axle.
If they're bending, the only explanation is the axle isn't tight enough.
Right or wrong...I can guarantee that I tighten mine waaay more than the torque specs.
Then again mines never come loose.
get yourself a laser chain aligner as well, takes the guesswork out and the cost of it will be saved over the course of one or two chains anyway. more than one bike, you'll save the cost even quicker. also learn how to use it properly, I started out using mine incorrectly, had my mechanic show me how to use it properly and its even better again. bike rides so much better when the wheels are aligned properly.
Check the condition of the threads on the axlebolt and in the nut. If they are damaged or stretched the nut will be overly tight and you wont get the correct torque on it.
If yours uses a splitpin and a castellated nut I suggest taking the bolt out completely and making sure the nut spins freely by hand along the full length of thread.
The thread is a metric fine, upside is they can accommodate more torque than a course pitch but the downside is they are more susceptible to damage.
Don't take this as totally obvious here, but a few things...
Some of the new F models do not have a castle looking nut with the cotter pin. Apparently it was to save money...dono. They can back out and sometimes strip the whole axle threads. I replaced with an older axle that fits a castle nut and put in a cotter pin. No more loosening axle after that.
Regarding the adjuster washer plates...mine bent to hell too. Once they bend, you are screwed. When I would tighten the nut, they would bend around the swingarm. Best is to buy a new one. $5. No more bending.
Does anyone know if the uber plates that are on the SV650 work? They look 10X stronger than the POS's on ours.
If your rear axle keeps loosening up make sure you are not missing spacer 9 that the cush drive bearing rides on, it can get lost and go unnoticed if the cush drive is pulled from the wheel for a tire change.
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=2102§ion=92708&year=2001&make=SUZUKI&category=Motorcycles&dc=792&name=REAR+WHEEL
Spacer 9 was lost on my 02 GS and the left rear wheel bearing failed and the wheel kept coming loose and I kept tightening it tighter and tighter until the wheel started locking up on the failed bearing. Tightening the axle nut tighter only overloads the bearing more and hastens the failure if the spacer is missing. The standard torque specs are more than adequate if nothing is wrong.
Quote from: crzydood17 on December 06, 2012, 08:59:31 PM
Does anyone know if the uber plates that are on the SV650 work? They look 10X stronger than the POS's on ours.
you do not need the ADJUSTING plates at all. they are for ADJUSTING chain tension and wheel alignment, not mechanical holding in place of the axle in the swing arm. again, stronger, bigger, heavier plates will only mask a very bad problem, and possibly make the bike unsafe and prone to failure.
if the gs had wonderful snail-shell adjusters, you would only notice the adjuster had mushroomed around the notches, and wonder why. well, that and the wheel beaerings would fail every few thousand miles ;-) (that's a big hint somethings amiss !)
1) print the parts fiche of the rear wheel assembly from bikebandit or whoever's website you like
2) remove the rear wheel
3) check that all the bearings are in excellet condition
4) check that all (ALLLLLLLL OF THEM!) the spacers, washers, and dust seals are in place in the assembly, and not scored, scarred, mushroomed, or damaged in any way.
5) reassemble with whatever was missing/damaged and tighten to spec. 55 ft/lb (75nm ) will hold the wheel / axle assembly properly after striking curbs, wombats and even the deathstar- IF nothing is damaged prior to assembly.
;-)
well i guess I will be tearing my axle apart to see if I am missing any of the parts and to check torque...