Hi,
This may be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyways. When I bought my bike the owner-then added full synthetic to my GS500 and changed my filter, which was great. Now I would like to change my oil, but was reading full synthetic may be an overkill for the bike, and that semi- synthetic should work just fine. My question is:
-is it ok to switch full to semi?
-as for my oil filter, i only put about 500km this season due to buying that mike late in the season, so should i be switching it as well?
-how often should the oil filter be switched?
Thank you.
WARNING TO THE OP: This is a heated topic for forums, so I'm sure some will try to answer your question, but there's bound to be opinions and arguments...
Nevertheless, I will brave this thread and add toward your request for information.
It is good practice to always change your filter every time you change your oil. There is also the unknown of the previous owner's word (unless you were there to see it), so its probably good to change the filter anyway.
As to switching oils from full synthetic, I know less about (I have my thoughts and opinion on this, but I choose to keep it to myself), so I'll let others brave that question.
- Bboy
Hedgehog,
Oil is a highly debatable topic on this forum...I cannot guarantee where this thread will go from here.
To answer your question. Our GS500s are based on an engine design from the 1980s, which was a warmed over version from the 1970s (GS400/425/450/etc). Back then, oil was not as technologically advanced as it is today. 10W40 oil from 2012 is more advanced than 10W40 oil from the 70s and 80s.
So, use what you want. Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic, dinosaur juice, whatever. DO NOT use anything that contains friction modifiers or resource conserving which is commonly used in cars.
Oil filter should be changed every time. Why not? They are cheap, and this bike uses oil to cool and lubricate parts. Vital part of the engine.
Oil change interval found on the Wiki: http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Maintenance.EngineOil
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 07, 2012, 10:40:30 AMbut was reading full synthetic may be an overkill for the bike, and that semi- synthetic should work just fine.
Full Synthetic/Semi Synthetic has physical property's that dyno juice can only dream about, regardless of what any Broke Bloke that doesn't have a pot to piss in tells you . Is it overkill? :dunno_black:
Personally I own about $25,000 in bikes and another $50,000 in cars, you do whatever allows you to sleep at night. I can afford Mobil1...I sleep like a baby :icon_idea:
EDIT: And on that note...I also used dyno juice for for decades and never lost 1 engine...even while racing. I just had to get in early on this thread :thumb:
*attatches flame suit*
Synthetic oil is just more refined dino juice... thank you and good night...
Run regular Valvoline and save yourself money. Also its a 500 dollar engine... who really gives 2 craps.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
^^ If there's anyone out on the Internet that knows about oil, it's Bob. Look on the forums section under motorcycles.
You can get lost for days in that place learning about shear, synthetic, viscosity, etc.
Thank you for all the replies, however no one actually answered my question for the switching. I understand there are rebatable threads on engine and what to use, but my question is, can you switch from FULL to SEMI? Will there be any drawbacks to the bike after switching?
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 07, 2012, 11:43:22 AM
Thank you for all the replies, however no one actually answered my question for the switching. I understand there are rebatable threads on engine and what to use, but my question is, can you switch from FULL to SEMI? Will there be any drawbacks to the bike after switching?
YES you can switch...even to dyno juice if you want, just change it on a regular basis and life will be grand! :thumb:
EDIT: And as mentioned, change the filter every time also if you can...they don't cost much at all
I use a good name brand 10W40 on sale. In fact, I bought out two Kroger Supermarket stores of their 10W40 stock of Castrol when it was on sale for $2 a quart.
Never used Synthetic...even in cars. Dinosaur Juice works great. Keep it filled to the correct level and change it often. The GS500 engine is as simple as a lawn mower. Seriously.
That's all I know pal. Others will for sure chime in.
Much appreciated guys. :)
Quote from: crzydood17 on December 07, 2012, 11:30:10 AMSynthetic oil is just more refined dino juice...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil)
"Synthetic motor oils are man made oils from the following classes of lubricants: Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil;"EDIT: OK....I see what your saying
"using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil"Getting back to the reasoning behind my first post in this thread:
"Synthetic oil is used as a substitute for lubricant refined from petroleum when operating in extremes of temperature, because, in general, it provides superior mechanical and chemical properties than those found in traditional mineral oils"This has always been my point, it's physical properties are superior to dyno juice, if ones opinion is "it makes no difference" then that's fine also. Dyno Juice is a better
value and that's all it has ever been, with synthetics costing 5X more on average, synthetics are obviously not 5X better at doing what oil does...keeping parts in an engine apart from each other :cheers:
CCP
OYMMV
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 07, 2012, 11:59:55 AM
Much appreciated guys. :)
NO NO NO.....it can't end this quick :sad:
It's dawn in Australia. Surely, there will be some trouble soon :D
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/oxford_photos/emoticons/deja-vu.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/oxford_photos/emoticons/wherethisthreadgoing.jpg)
Okay the sun has risen and you want trouble.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/oxford_photos/emoticons/cowboygunshootingsmiley.gif)
FWIW, I have tried full synth and full mineral in the GS500. The synth IME make the clutch a little sticky, in gear starts made the bike very twitchy and jumpy. Switched to a full mineral oil, based on stuff I read here and the bike runs no differently, but the clutch and gearbox seem to b better.
I also do filter and oil every 5,000kms (roughly 3,000mi for the imperialists :icon_razz: ) and lose no oil between changes. Engine has nearly 50,000kms on it (30,000mi).
Considering the price difference, I'll just keep using full mineral oil personally.
My Bandit however with a similar tech/age type engine does run better on semi-synth.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/oxford_photos/emoticons/two-cents.gif)
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on December 07, 2012, 12:05:27 PM
Quote from: crzydood17 on December 07, 2012, 11:30:10 AMSynthetic oil is just more refined dino juice...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil)
"Synthetic motor oils are man made oils from the following classes of lubricants: Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil;"
EDIT: OK....I see what your saying "using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil"
Getting back to the reasoning behind my first post in this thread: "Synthetic oil is used as a substitute for lubricant refined from petroleum when operating in extremes of temperature, because, in general, it provides superior mechanical and chemical properties than those found in traditional mineral oils"
This has always been my point, it's physical properties are superior to dyno juice, if ones opinion is "it makes no difference" then that's fine also. Dyno Juice is a better value and that's all it has ever been, with synthetics costing 5X more on average, synthetics are obviously not 5X better at doing what oil does...keeping parts in an engine apart from each other :cheers:
CCPOYMMV
Oh stevo, synthetic oil all starts out as dino oil, it just gets refined and modified, they make all the hydrocarbon strands smaller tighter and more uniform, then they add modifiers depending on its use (IE Auto, Bike, Diesel)
a True synthetic would be humans take a bunch of hydrogen and carbon and build it into a perfect oil. Its not possible to do that in the quantity needed, its easier to filter out the strands they need from the base stocks and call it synthetic.
Edit- (didn't see stevos edit)
The beauty of a synthetic comes when you have tight tolerances and HIGH performance. Neither of these things is something the GS500 has. Heck no one knows how long a GS would last without a oil change but my money would be on "a very long time"
Oh how I love a good oil thread with a twist. Now you have to be careful with switching between oil types best advice it to continue using your synthetic oil. Unless your desperate. In regards to overkill, nothing is really overkill I mean I ran full synthetic Mobil 1 and 98 Ron fuel in my GS and found my gear changes smoothed out in terms of the feel of the gear lever so it's up to you.
Yes you can switch, agree with whats been posted. Synthetic gives better protection, I recommend using motorcycle oil, you can use some car oils without friction modifiers, most use 10-40w oil & change filter. I tried regular and synthetic motorcycle oil and my GS shifts better with standard oil and don't like synthetic :dunno_black: I have tried Mobile, Valvoline and Castrol...... I have the best luck with Castrol 20-50w, I know it's heavier than 10-40w but my bike likes it :thumb: Good luck :cheers:
Quote from: slipperymongoose on December 07, 2012, 03:08:50 PM
Oh how I love a good oil thread with a twist. Now you have to be careful with switching between oil types best advice it to continue using your synthetic oil. Unless your desperate. In regards to overkill, nothing is really overkill I mean I ran full synthetic Mobil 1 and 98 Ron fuel in my GS and found my gear changes smoothed out in terms of the feel of the gear lever so it's up to you.
NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO WORRY! This is a old lie that was told by tons of service stations to sell synthetic.
The only problem with synthetic is that it can clean up gunk so well it can cause a leak.
hmmmm... just to mess with this a bit more ... one of my mates does his own servicing .. last oil change he put full synth in cos he had the cash and decided to GO BIG ... no real change in anything engine wise... he reckons it felt zippier and smoother and everything-ier!! ... (like a oil/filter/plug/service in general wont do that anyway!?)
not quite sure what happened somewhere along the line.. but he recently rang me with a rant (which we do cos we are mates) .. he had to top up the oil level ... about 500ml went in .... after which he looked at the dregs in his little litre 'top up' bottle and thought hmm that looks weird! ... then remembered he had put 15/40w diesel oil in the bottle the week before to top up his missus old Golf hatchback diesel...
so it has motul full synth oil mostly and now dino juice 15/40 valvoline in it... and still no differences! .. i said i suppose its like a semi synth blend now .. when its cold it may separate a tiny bit in the case .. but when its warm i figure it'll all smoosh around and blend back together a bit .. and as long as the oil and the engine bits are all in contact with each other i see no real problem...
obviously you cant really do an extreme .. like 90w gear oil and 5w (or less) oil .. well you probably could in an extreme situ 'to limp home' .. but apart from friction modified oils in bike clutches which EVERYONE says is not so shite hot!! .. i work on the basic principle that the oils will combine well enough to not make a difference so long as the respective 'weights' are similar..
over the years in trucks/cars/bikes/outboards... i have combined synth/semisynth/dino/'old car' dino/lpg/diesel oils .... nothins broken yet! .. sure i will try to use 'one' oil at a time ... but thats mainly for simplicity ..
when it cpmes down to it .. we all use 'xyz oil' cos 'john smith' from '321' company says the 'hootchiemamma' race/rally/stunt team use and recommend 'xyz' ...
now everyone will scream at me for combining synths and dinos on purpose cos 'the proven data report of Dr schinkelgruber at the hufflepuff' institute' says in doing so i am inviting satan to reach down and gronk my engine/s with his red hot 'poker' ..
i WONT mix/use friction mod oils in my bike cos the clutch is wet .. and so many riders have found out the 2 dont mix well.. i'm just sayin that the oil companies/marketing people mix and match synth/dino juice stuff all the time for their latest 'oil that jesus himself uses!!' .. the rest is good marketing
You'll be fine. These engines really don't require anything too special as far as oil goes.
Quote from: crzydood17 on December 07, 2012, 01:29:21 PMThe beauty of a synthetic comes when you have tight tolerances and HIGH performance. Neither of these things is something the GS500 has.
I'm pretty sure an air cooled engine like the GS500's can benefit from the superior thermal protection synthetic offers and it's extended cold weather pour point?
Nothing in the GS design says "I like cheap oil", that's the owners justifying their choice in lubrication, nor does it need synthetic to run for decades.
Having wrenched at both professional and hobby levels since the early '70's, I will toss this into the mix. One of the most common causes of catastrophic engine failure is when oil gets hot, the viscosity breaks down and it gets thin, next step is metal to metal contact If only for a nano second, you then have the
snowballing/galling effect of catastrophic engine failure. This isn't my opinion, it's a fact. This is why I personally don't use cheap oil.
EDIT: Let me change that to "any old oil" as apposed to "cheap", any brand name is fine, just clarifying, I do love me some Castrol GTX :thumb:
I DEMAND MORE FIGHTING!
(http://i.qkme.me/3s3dsj.jpg)
Quote from: Funderb on December 07, 2012, 05:32:54 PM
I DEMAND MORE FIGHTING!
(http://static.quickmeme.com/media/social/qm.gif)
(slaps funderb across face with leather glove .... old school duelling style)
there ya go!! :flipoff:
I just did some very rough math.
It looks like you can buy a new GS engine every 75,000 miles with the money you save buying dino oil instead of a full synthetic.
As long as there is something slippery in the engine everything should be fine.
Let's look at some hard numbers and ignore personal opinions. Here's the MSDS for Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and V-Twin 20W-50.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx)
Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40's Flash Point is 212°C/413.6° Fahrenheit
Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40's Pour Point is -45°C/-49° Fahrenheit
Im not saying Mobil1 is going to have the best numbers for this, I'm pretty sure Amsoil and Rotella T will hold up well in these two category's also. Go get the MSDS to your favorite oil and just for shitz and grins let's see the numbers for the Flash Point and the Pour Point. The Rainman in me sez that once an oil goes above or below these two numbers it is no longer oil.
What else are you gunna do on Friday night? :dunno_black:
Quote from: Bluesmudge on December 07, 2012, 05:49:29 PM
I just did some very rough math.
It looks like you can buy a new GS engine every 75,000 miles with the money you save buying dino oil instead of a full synthetic.
As long as there is something slippery in the engine everything should be fine.
Agree 100% :thumb:
I demand non qualified oil molecule analysis here people! And as long as we're putting slippery stuff in the engine how bout a banana?
Thread jack much? Lol
You have to wait for them to get ripe before they have the correct properties. Also, make sure to measure the volume before squishing them into the engine because they are difficult to measure with the dip stick.
In all seriousness, I remember seeing a video where a Honda Cub ran just fine using old cooking oil as a lubricant.
If that's the case ill take a slash into my engine sump
Well that settles it... ditch the GS, buy a Honda Cub, visit old greasy food joints for their used oil and ride away happy in the sunset safe in the knowledge all is well cause Bluesmudge remembers :woohoo:
I saw a video where They ran an engine without a sump and even hosed down the moving parts. Don't know what happened after that 30 second scene but there you go. Give that a go and see how you travel.
I HAD Motul 1000 in my bike. Clunky changes, false neutrals. I changed to Motul 5100 and gear changes were smoother, false neutrals greatly reduced. Switched to Motul 300v, gear changes smoother still, false neutrals gone. Now using Mobile 1 Racing 4T. Zero false neutrals, gear changes are so smooth I barely touch the gear change lever and she changes. I can also push my bike around in gear with the clutch pulled in, something not possible with Motul 5100 or lesser oils.
BUT, Mobile 1 racing 4t is Expensive. It gives me a hard on knowing it is in the bike. Though I do wish it smelled almost like perfume like Motul oil does. I keep some motul on hand just to dab behind the ears occasionally and on my wrists, so I smell sweet. :thumb:
BUT, this all pales into what is MOST important. Forget the oil question. To hell with you for asking. A pox upon you vile pleb. May the fleas of a thousand camels infest the armpits of any person who dares to suggest diesel truck oil or cheap-ass walmart recycled oil extruded from the bottoms of KFC boxes and from the faces of teenagers all over the country. You NEED to be asking about the Milk. I cannot believe this? People keep forgetting about the milk. And NO, do NOT use soy milk. That's for yuppy scooter riders. And never put powdered milk in the handlebars either. How many darn times do we need to hammer this point home?
Michael
Ahh, come on! I used soy milk. No problems.
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on December 07, 2012, 05:13:28 PMEDIT: Let me change that to "any old oil" as apposed to "cheap", any brand name is fine, just clarifying, I do love me some Castrol GTX :thumb:
Really, as long as you're using Sears brand economy priced oil (or similar quality), it'll be alright. Also, keep in mind oil can operate just fine in conditions well past its flash point--it doesn't burst into flames and disappear. I'm pretty sure no engine oil ever made has a flash point of 1600°F, yet a good oil can survive lubricating a turbo bearing spinning at 170k RPM within millimeters of the glowing hot turbine housing without skipping a beat.
The GS500 engine does not generate temperatures or shear stresses anywhere near high enough to cause even dirt cheap oil to change phase. The bottom shelf stuff will likely still shear prematurely though, which is why I wouldn't recommend it.
Quote from: slipperymongoose on December 07, 2012, 06:02:33 PM
I demand non qualified oil molecule analysis here people! And as long as we're putting slippery stuff in the engine how bout a banana?
Thread jack much? Lol
no no no Slips!... bananas are for thw worn diffs in cars!! ... instant 300km driven distance or less noise killer!...
bananas in an engine?!... pffft ... bloody queenslanders
;)
Sears oil...I'm not sure if that gives me oil thread Bo Nar?
OK...I got me an 18 Pack of Coors Light and a bottle of Bawls...C'mon oil thread page 3!!!
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/bawls.jpg)
I'm guilty of using Sears oil once....when my turbo drain line was blocked and I knew all 4.5 quarts would come out the exhaust over the course of 5 miles. Long story, but I probably left a good hole in the ozone that day.
coors light?!... thats a bit..... effeminate aint it!! :flipoff:
next thing you'll be smearing yourself in royal purple oil products and writhing around on a plastic sheet!! .. gotta use the right viscosity though!!
see.. i kept it oil related and potentially provoked controversy by other means at the same time!!... :D
Ah, the old "writhing around on a plastic sheet covered in oil" thing. A good time was had by all.
Interesting twist on that concept....
Nude twister covered in baby oil. That'd have to be worth a laugh or two. Come to think of it, I'd just sit back and watch while it as played by some coeds or something.
Quote from: Janx101 on December 07, 2012, 08:52:53 PM
coors light?!... thats a bit..... effeminate aint it!! :flipoff:
next thing you'll be smearing yourself in royal purple oil products and writhing around on a plastic sheet!! .. gotta use the right viscosity though!!
see.. i kept it oil related and potentially provoked controversy by other means at the same time!!... :D
Effeminate... did you not see my Bawls? :nono:
Zima...now that's a man's drink!!
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on December 07, 2012, 09:01:28 PMZima...now that's a man's drink!!
Too bad they stopped making it. Don't ask me how I know that.
Quote from: mister on December 07, 2012, 08:59:21 PM
Interesting twist on that concept....
Nude twister covered in baby oil. That'd have to be worth a laugh or two. Come to think of it, I'd just sit back and watch while it as played by some coeds or something.
Been there, done that...
Minus the baby oil though...
And minus the nude part...
But it comes up every New Years party
- Bboy
bawls ... zima.... chick drinks!!!!! ... got no taurine in them?!?! ... guarana and caffiene are the 'pink fuzzy' parts of energy drinks.... TAURINE .. now thats the MAN STUFF ... liver extract... from a bull.... in high doses can create a 'roid surge of energy!! ...
now... engine oils ... while i say that i've mixed a lot of them into a sump on various engines.... if they bring out a brand that Vin Diesel approves of and recommends.. i might buy it... or possibly even better .. if it contains the tears of joy from Chip Foose .. cos he was so excited that finally an oil had all bases covered protection wise... then i'd try that too.... lol :D
if they could capture chuck norris, tie him up and extract oil from the hair on his head, yeah would be the schnitz.
According to these scientist and the latest info available the so called dino oils are not from dinos at all but were formed in large part long before dinos were invented.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/09/090910084259.htm
Quote from: ojstinson on December 08, 2012, 10:14:43 AM
According to these scientist and the latest info available the so called dino oils are not from dinos at all but were formed in large part long before dinos were invented.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/09/090910084259.htm
I've never really bought the whole dinosaur to oil hypothesis myself, even though it has been widely accepted as the source for dyno juice as long as I can remember. I figured crude oil was some form of insulating fluid that keep the heat of the earth's hot molten core away from us on the surface? I came up with this hair brain idea back in Jr High in the mid 60's. So far it has just been something to kick around while drinking. I was just hoping that I would survive long enough to cash in on my 401K & SS benefits before we all overheated and went the way of the dinosaur ourselves. I'm just glad that oil....for whatever reason it exists, regardless of how it was formed, allows the internal combustion engine that we all enjoy so much :cheers:
This was my reasoning, they brought it up also...
"He adds that there is no way that fossil oil, with the help of gravity or other forces, could have seeped down to a depth of 10.5 kilometers in the state of Texas, for example, which is rich in oil deposits."And apparently I wasn't a visionary either....
"This has long been a matter of lively discussion among scientists"
So if corn oil is made from corn,
Olive oil is made from olives,
Does that mean that Baby oil is not made from babies, and
Dinosaur oil is not made from dinosaurs?
I'm confused now. :dunno_black:
And Soylent Green is made out of PEOPLE!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Sp-VFBbjpE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Sp-VFBbjpE)
And coal is really solidified oil.
Got to keep telling people it's rotted trees and stuff though to keep up the scarcity line.
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on December 07, 2012, 06:00:11 PM
Let's look at some hard numbers and ignore personal opinions. Here's the MSDS for Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and V-Twin 20W-50.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx)
Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40's Flash Point is 212°C/413.6° Fahrenheit
Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40's Pour Point is -45°C/-49° Fahrenheit
10w-40 Castrol GTX (last stuff I bought that was on sale)
Flash point Closed cup: >200°C (>392°F) [Pensky-Martens.]
Quote from: rharding91 on December 08, 2012, 02:08:42 PM10w-40 Castrol GTX (last stuff I bought that was on sale)
Flash point Closed cup: >200°C (>392°F) [Pensky-Martens.]
Castrol has always had a reputation for being stable at higher temperatures. If I remember correctly VW use to recommended Castrol in their owners manuals as the oil to use in the Beetle because it held up well when hot. It's good stuff anyway you look at it :thumb:
EDIT: A good Pour Point is clearly a good attribute for a motor oil to have, the Flash Point
(The flash point of a volatile material is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air) Probably tells you nothing about an oils stability while hot? I was hoping that looking at the numbers might be another way of looking at an oils quality's that wasn't driven by peoples opinion's. :dunno_black:
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on December 08, 2012, 03:18:15 PM
Quote from: rharding91 on December 08, 2012, 02:08:42 PM10w-40 Castrol GTX (last stuff I bought that was on sale)
Flash point Closed cup: >200°C (>392°F) [Pensky-Martens.]
Castrol has always had a reputation for being stable at higher temperatures. If I remember correctly VW use to recommended Castrol in their owners manuals as the oil to use in the Beetle because it held up well when hot. It's good stuff anyway you look at it :thumb:
EDIT: A good Pour Point is clearly a good attribute for a motor oil to have, the Flash Point (The flash point of a volatile material is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air) Probably tells you nothing about an oils stability while hot? I was hoping that looking at the numbers might be another way of looking at an oils quality's that wasn't driven by peoples opinion's. :dunno_black:
They didnt have the pour point on the msds and I couldnt find the msds on valvoline which is what i used before that. Still cant beat 20$ for 5 quarts which included a oil filter (for my car, they didnt carry my oil filter but manager said hed start special ordering them for me so I could use in the deal) some rags a oil pan and funnel. The autozone deal.
Don't ever use synthetic milk in your handlebars.
Mister....it's evaporated milk. Everyone knows that :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: mister on December 08, 2012, 05:15:45 PM
Don't ever use synthetic milk in your handlebars.
Exactly....this is why I drove to work, rather than wash the cat :thumb:
If you have 7 pencils and 4 apples, how many pancakes will fit on the roof? Purple because aliens don't wear hats!
Quote from: jestercinti on December 08, 2012, 05:22:00 PM
Mister....it's evaporated milk. Everyone knows that :icon_rolleyes:
NO! Powdered milk is 100% NOT On, ever. The only exception Might be if you mix it with dehydrated water. But this can only be done on a full moon during a solstice in a year ending in a 3 under the tail of a comet while drinking a can of redbull and reciting the secret incantation. So it's usually better to wash the cat instead of giving it a pill.
Frape monolithic banana tricycle
Now you really have me confused. If it's a penny for your thoughts, why is Slips always giving his 2 cents?
Inflation is the answer, why did the monkey climb the telegraph pole is the question. See, it all beginning to make sense now :thumb:
Monkey fruitcake tampon string!
This is turning out to be a good oil thread :cheers:
Ah, fruitcake tampon string. Of course, I hadn't thought of that. Good point you make there.
Of course, the rotating wire connector toggle must be considered, if you're a purest. Otherwise the dust bunnies won't matter and good luck with the cotton splinters.
Michael
So that's the answer...the deusenheiser valve...but not to be confused with the manifold ka-bumper-flap-thinga-ma-rod.
Clear as an azure sky in deepest summer.
Azure. Soon to be the name of some Hollywierd celebrity's kid no doubt.
Megan Fox saying Cam Shafts http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oq5apnzDhwA
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on December 08, 2012, 03:18:15 PM
Quote from: rharding91 on December 08, 2012, 02:08:42 PM10w-40 Castrol GTX (last stuff I bought that was on sale)
Flash point Closed cup: >200°C (>392°F) [Pensky-Martens.]
Castrol has always had a reputation for being stable at higher temperatures. If I remember correctly VW use to recommended Castrol in their owners manuals as the oil to use in the Beetle because it held up well when hot. It's good stuff anyway you look at it :thumb:
EDIT: A good Pour Point is clearly a good attribute for a motor oil to have, the Flash Point (The flash point of a volatile material is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air) Probably tells you nothing about an oils stability while hot? I was hoping that looking at the numbers might be another way of looking at an oils quality's that wasn't driven by peoples opinion's. :dunno_black:
You're right, in 1968 I purchased a brand new Volks Beetle for $1,400.oo and the mechanic told me the warranty would be void if I used anything but Castrol straight 30 weight oil, multi viscosity oils were a no no and would seize the engine in summer heat. I really didn't believe that but I used the recommended oil just in case.
The worst thing you can do to a VW is lug it around at low Rpm's, combined that with the wrong oil and a dead bug is the outcome. I had a '62 with a pumped up 40Hp, I would wind it up until the Rpm's damn near plateaued, then I would shift....spinning the cooling fan at a high Rpm was the key to a cooler happy bug! :cheers:
SUNDAY MORNING EDIT: I just thought I would share an oil experience I had when I first started driving. I will keep this as short as I can...the edit is to keep from bouncing this thread back to the top
(1) My dad used Pennzoil, so when I started driving I used Pennzoil, obviously because it was what my dad used.
(2) My vehicle of the time, a '65 Rambler Classic V-8 would always use at least 1/3 a quart of oil between oil changes (give or take).
(3) I found out that Pennzoil is a paraffin base, so I thought that maybe, just maybe the paraffin (wax) was getting past the engine rings?
(4) So I tried another oil..Quaker State, and for whatever reason my oil consumption stopped completely.
(5) It was at this point in my life that I gave up the mindset that "oil is oil, use whatever, it's all wet"
Monkey fruitcake tampon string! :woohoo:
I run crisco in all my vehicles. It has superior viscosity, works well under stress, and gives off a pleasant odor under load.
If it can fry bacon and keep my insides lubricated, it can do the same for my vehicles!
When I cant source crisco, I make do with olive oil.
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 07, 2012, 10:40:30 AM-is it ok to switch full to semi?
-as for my oil filter, i only put about 500km this season due to buying that mike late in the season, so should i be switching it as well?
-how often should the oil filter be switched?
To answer your questions... It's safe to switch oil type. I've heard rumors that it may cause leakage past seals, but I haven't seen any issues in practice.
Mixing oil is also okay, so long as you maintain the normal change interval, and honor the lowest common denominator oil in the crank. E.g. Some synthetics can go double the usual oil change interval. If you mix in conventional oil, treat the bike as if the entire thing was full of conventional oil.
To answer your second question: I wouldn't bother changing the filter, but I might be inclined to crack the compartment open. It holds about .25 liters of oil.
To answer your third question: I usually change the filter with the oil, but it should be fine to do it once every other oil change, if you are cost sensitive.
One other thing to consider: Different oils have different burn rates. Group IV sunthetics tend to have the slowest consumption rates, which is one reason to consider running them in the GS. When you change oil, you need to keep a close eye on oil level for a while.
Over kill is under rated.
anyways, i like the peace of mind knowing that i put the best of the best in my bike, i'll gladly fork out the extra $5 for a better oil, but then again i have a thing for castrol synthetic oil (the old school race mix) which isnt too expensive. but i guess the question here is why do you want to change to semi-synthetics? if you can make a valid argument for your position, then go for it, if not then perhaps you should think about why you can't.
so theres my opinion, i don't but the most expensive and i dont buy the cheapest, i buy what i prefer to use (though i may try switching to royal purple).
now to the next part, yes it's perfectly safe to swap oils so long as you don't go directly from full synthetic to straight oil (many people do but i've always been against it). and as a rule of thumb its always best to swap the oil filter every time you do an oil change, not a fan of changing the oil filter? look up the K&N filter, i believe it doesn't need to be swapped every time, but i could be wrong.
as for the seal leaks (see previous post) thats switching from non synthetic to synthetic, regular oil creates a carbon build-up which creates a good seal in in the engine, however, synthetics are designed to break it up which causes a leak because the carbon seal is no-longer present, at this point the gaskets would need to be replaced with newer gaskets capable of handling synthetic oils. Nowadays all gaskets are designed to handle synthetics.
HEY, stop answering the oil question already. We are beyond that now. We are now in the realm of mockery and silliness. Nothing serious from now on.
Everyone knows you can extract oil from discarded guitar strings and That is the best. But you must add the fishing line and sinkers to your pegs to help prevent jibble.
OMG I have a guitar in my room with old strings on it I'm going to do this now, purple alien hat
Quotepurple alien hat
now you're just being dirty. this is a family friendly forum slip. cut it out.
I find if I take stray dogs, and put them through an old fashioned cloths wringer, it squeezes the oil right out of them, and it works great and bearing grease!
Quote from: burning1 on December 09, 2012, 06:45:29 AMTo answer your questions... It's safe to switch oil type. I've heard rumors that it may cause leakage past seals, but I haven't seen any issues in practice.
This is a problem that stopped existing shortly after cork gaskets stopped being the industry standard. Seals, gaskets, hoses, and oils have come a long way since then. Going from a full synthetic to dino oil will not cause leaks unless your vehicle was built in the early 60's and none of those aforementioned components have been updated. It's a myth that really shouldn't continue to be spread.
Quote from: RossLH on December 09, 2012, 05:16:49 PM
Quote from: burning1 on December 09, 2012, 06:45:29 AMTo answer your questions... It's safe to switch oil type. I've heard rumors that it may cause leakage past seals, but I haven't seen any issues in practice.
This is a problem that stopped existing shortly after cork gaskets stopped being the industry standard. Seals, gaskets, hoses, and oils have come a long way since then. Going from a full synthetic to dino oil will not cause leaks unless your vehicle was built in the early 60's and none of those aforementioned components have been updated. It's a myth that really shouldn't continue to be spread.
wish we had a 'like' button..... consider it liked anyway! :thumb:
Quote from: RossLH on December 09, 2012, 05:16:49 PM
Quote from: burning1 on December 09, 2012, 06:45:29 AMTo answer your questions... It's safe to switch oil type. I've heard rumors that it may cause leakage past seals, but I haven't seen any issues in practice.
This is a problem that stopped existing shortly after cork gaskets stopped being the industry standard. Seals, gaskets, hoses, and oils have come a long way since then. Going from a full synthetic to dino oil will not cause leaks unless your vehicle was built in the early 60's and none of those aforementioned components have been updated. It's a myth that really shouldn't continue to be spread.
Well I find, I don't need to worry about expensive cork clutches any more. I recycle the corks from empty wine bottles. I don't drink so I need to roll old winos in the street to get them. Keeps me entertained for hours.
Another good place for oil is from cars in parking lots. I always find heaps. A small oil tray, slide under the car, crack the sump plug and BINGO, free oil. I do leave little thank you notes, you know, to show my appreciation.
Michael
waaaaay to much effort there mister!! .... sure slide a tray under a car..... but pick an old leaky car!! ... that way the oil drips out on its own.... saves the chrome wear on the crescent wrench!! :icon_rolleyes:
Hey, Good idea. Too time consuming though. Time is money. Plus, I don't trust passers by who might thing I was doing the wrong thing
Wear a recycle symbol shirt and look hippy-ish .. 'Save the planet man!'
Or better yet, a Mobile Lube shirt. Lube While You Shop. Noone would be any the wiser. Yeah, that's the ticket.
ahhhhhh !... clever!
:thumb: