Im trying to loosen this screw so I can switch it over to clip-ons, but it is so tight that I'm afraid I will strip the head. Please see diagram link below, part #6 and #5.
http://www.hillsboromotorcycles.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=18997§ion=704492&year=2008&make=SUZUKI&category=Motorcycles&dc=656&name=HANDLE+SWITCH
Can someone please recommend me something to help loosen this screw. There's probably thread lock on it but if not, still there must be something i can apply to assist its grip.
Lastly, so say I did strip it, where can I get a replacement? Does bringing it to a hardware store and looking for it with the same thread suffice?
Any response is greatly appreciated. :)
A quick tap with an impact driver will pop that right loose.
I agree on the impact driver. I had to buy one when I was taking apart engines and it came in handy
Squirt PB Blaster in
Be sure you have a JIS screwdriver
Tap - yes - loosens the rust
If you farkle it up, you can get used ones $10-$25. Be sure to get the right year (or ask here first). Connectors changed a couple times.
I am always reluctant to start using impact drivers on fragile parts such as carbs and switchgear :dunno_black:
File/grind about 0.020"/ 0.5mm off the tip of a good quality phillips screwdriver, one with a decent handle that you can get a good grip on. You will find it will fit the JIS screwhead much better and it may be enough to free it off.
liquid wrench/pb blaster is your friend.
screws can sense fear - they will strip if you are nervous.
Thanks for the responses people.
After searching for JIS screwdrivers, doesn't look like it is carried in Canada.
Is a screw bought from the hardware store the same if I match the threads and length to the stripped one, if stripped?
PB blaster is your friend. If I remember correct it goes into plastic so worst case , assuming you eventually get it out, is going up one size or from a fine to coarse. OR... some sort of threadable filler (epoxy, minute mend, KB weld, etc.)
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 16, 2012, 04:29:05 PM
Is a screw bought from the hardware store the same if I match the threads and length to the stripped one, if stripped?
yeah, if you mangle it getting it out, just replace it with something with the same threads and length.
Remember it is METRIC. I'd replace the screws anyway since they seem rusty. Allen heads if you can get them. Stainless, too.
Words to live by: Whenever you do something, leave it better than it was before you started.
ergo: might as well upgrade the screws, clean the switch contacts and polish the plastic.
Again, much appreciated guys. :D
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
Impact screwdriver. Fantastic for carb screws btw. Honestly unless very delicate item, it is the best tool to use.
A stripped screw can be recovered with a dremmel and a cutting wheel: cut a groove for a big flat screwdriver. That trick has saved me.
For unstripped screws that you suspect will strip: dampen your screwdriver (or rub a magnet on the end), then dip it in metal shavings from your bench grinder. The meta flakes can help increase grip.
Well, PB blaster didn't do the trick. Looks like the screw is pretty tight fit in there not leaving room to the lubricate to seep in. I'll give the rotary tool a try using a flathead afterwards, hopefully this does the trick. I'm going to need a new screw now, ugh :icon_confused:
Sounds like you're on the right track at least. Maybe an extractor set if that fails and if it's still in there drill that mofo out. Or get somebody to drill that mofo.
Considering a nearly new replacement left hand control assembly is $14.95 plus postage, I'd order it and just rip the old one off and stop wasting time.
2004+ left hand controls are the same. Right hand changed so 2004-2005 are the same and connector changed for 2006+
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190707274518?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Adidasguy, as always (well almost :thumb: ), makes a good point. But if you're anything like me it's a personal battle at this point.
The same thing happened to me with my rear brake caliper. Really wanted to fix, but after looking at the cost and time options, I chose to get a new used one.
Works great. Have the old one for parts.
weedahoe and john,
Thanks for the ideas on the filing of a phillip screw driver and dremmel slot option to removing the screw. Saved me 24.99.
Thanks everyone else for your advice. :)
I know this is too late, but another idea is to use a soldering iron that is heated up. place the tip on the head of the screw to transfer some heat into the screw which will soften the thread locker if there is any, it will also soften the plastic housing a little so be careful.
Sometimes the slot cutting doesn't work. Did not work on my carburetor. Tried impact driver, tried slot cutting, etc.. None of that worked.
I ended up using a pair of vice grips on the head to bust them loose.
Carbs aren't really that fragile unless you go jabbing around inside them with a pair of pliers.
I say you do like Adidasguy suggested and just replace the entire thing.
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 20, 2012, 07:47:08 PM
weedahoe and john,
Thanks for the ideas on the filing of a phillip screw driver and dremmel slot option to removing the screw. Saved me 24.99.
Yes it does work IF you have a nice big flat screwdriver that crosses the entire screw. The other thing is to make as straight a cut as possible. Now that you know the trick, it will save your bacon in all sorts of applications. Weedahoe does a lot of mechanic work too. We aren't kidding when we suggest a manual impact driver. For the $6 it should be in your toolbox. The Harbor freight one works just fine and is cheaper than dirt.
Quote from: john on December 28, 2012, 08:51:53 AM
Quote from: hedgehog88 on December 20, 2012, 07:47:08 PM
weedahoe and john,
Thanks for the ideas on the filing of a phillip screw driver and dremmel slot option to removing the screw. Saved me 24.99.
Yes it does work IF you have a nice big flat screwdriver that crosses the entire screw. The other thing is to make as straight a cut as possible. Now that you know the trick, it will save your bacon in all sorts of applications. Weedahoe does a lot of mechanic work too. We aren't kidding when we suggest a manual impact driver. For the $6 it should be in your toolbox. The Harbor freight one works just fine and is cheaper than dirt.
+1
I get called to workstations all the time where a technician has stripped out a socket head cap screw and often use this technique. I've found that a hacksaw blade is the perfect size if you don't want/have a dremel. I can't use the manual impact driver due to what it is i'm working on but they do work quite well and should be in every tool box