The title was much more exciting than this first post. Sorry...
Anyways, I'm new here and I just bought this bike last week. Dirt cheap, needed a battery, clutch and choke cables, and the kickstand switch was broken.
Well, it still is, I just bypassed the sucker.
I have grand plans for a cafe racer style bike, but for now she'll do as is.
Here's my baby.
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-02_12-00-22_113_zps31dcee28.jpg)
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/IMG_20130105_103352_zps48421e95.jpg)
Nice bike. Looks wet there. Where are you located? Seattle by any chance?
Nah, NC. That was one of the crummiest days I've seen here.
Damn. Someone rode thier bike to Walmart, went in to get something really quick only to come out and find their bike was GONE! :icon_mrgreen:
So do tell, how cheap was dirt cheap?
Well since I stole it at Wal Mart, it was free!
Lol I paid $500, cost me about $80 in parts to make it driveable. Much better than my '86 Shadow, which I still can't get to run right. Piece of crap...anybody wanna buy a Honda?
Oh she's so pretty in the dim light of my garage. But I decided she needs to be white with red stripes.
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-10_20-39-36_670_zps3303dc18.jpg)
White with red stripes? Oh yeah, keep us updated on the progress :thumb:
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! :2guns: :mad: :2guns: :cookoo:
Gunmetal colored rims & frame.
Black motor.
Stock red paint job.
BEST color scheme on a stock GS!
I honestly dont think white would mesh good with the gunmetal color.
if that was mine, I wouldnt alter Anything with that color scheme.
Just clean it up real good.
Dangit! if it gets painted..... i wont look as it will make me cry! :sad:
That looks too perfect to paint.
Get a set of plastics and a tank that NEED painting and paint those.
Don't paint the rims white. I have plenty of white rim sets. In fact, there are a few parts whores on this board with any part that's needed for a GS500. You just have to ask or PM them directly.
Hay adidasguy you know when you buy something made in china and it has a small sticker that says 'made in china'. Maybe you need one of your own that says 'from adidasguy' or something :icon_mrgreen:
The cosmetic mods are coming only after I do all the reliability maintenance. Took her for my first ride this afternoon. Once I'm going she runs great, plenty of pick-up. But at operating temp she stalls at idle and blows white smoke. I'm thinking...lean?
Stills smokes after warming up? Have you read the plugs? What does it do with choke? Any delay on throttle response?
White smoke is usually just vapor and is more prevalent in the cold. It also typically goes away once the bike has fully warmed up just like most cars do in the cold. Does the smoke hang around or does it quickly dissipate?
These bikes are cold blooded and take a bit of time to warm up. How long did you let it warm up? Does it still stall after it has warmed up?
Apologies for the barrage of questions. Just trying to get a full picture for myself or others to help out better. Don't want you to waste your time on smalls, or miss the bigs if we can catch it with easy Q&As. Means less time on the sideline and more time riding!
- Bboy
She's running great now. I haven't been able to go for a long ride since adjusting the idle, but I'll update as soon as I do. It looks like *fingers crossed* that was my problem. She don't run rough or blow smoke no more
Quote from: MaxP on January 11, 2013, 03:24:01 PM
Hay adidasguy you know when you buy something made in china and it has a small sticker that says 'made in china'. Maybe you need one of your own that says 'from adidasguy' or something :icon_mrgreen:
Thats a good one. I like that one :cheers:
...she died on the long drive today...
I jumped on the highway, made it about 20 minutes, and she sputtered to a stop.
I was doing 60mph at 5500-6000rpm for about 20 minutes straight, she lost power, and came to a gradual stall.
I let her sit for about 10 minutes, fired her up, she ran for another 5 minutes and died again.
This repeated itself 3 times before I made it back home.
Does this sound like an overheating issue? Damn thing doesn't have a temp indicator and I'm new to air cooled, carbureted bikes.
Any ideas?
Possibly the vent in the gas cap is plugged. The WIKI has a topic on cleaning it.
To test:
1. When it stalls and you open the gas cap, do you hear air rushing in?
2. What happens if you ride with the gas cap opened so air gets in?
3. Are you sure you have gas in the tank? Fill it up to be sure.
4. It is possible you have a pinched fuel line. If running in ON position, try RES or PRIME.
5. also possible the in-tank fuel filter screen is getting clogged up so fuel flows slowly from the tank to the carbs.
Does it only happen at highway speeds where fuel demand is highest?
My first thought was the gas cap. When I was stalled I opened the gas tank, put it on reserve, and tried to fire it up, but it wouldn't start until it had sat for at least 5 min.
I didn't hear a rush of air when I opened the cap, but I had a helmet on and I was on a highway shoulder. Didn't try driving it with the cap off since it wasn't starting with it off, but if it happens again I'll give it a shot. Had half a tank, I'll fill it up next time I ride and see if that helps.
This only happened on the highway, but this trip wasn't a good test of that since I didn't do any street driving.
As it was losing power, I was able to give it a few short bursts like it wanted to ONLY run fast but then it'd immediately die.
I'm going to do some city-only driving at lower rpm's and see how that affects the drivability.
This is terrifyingly similar to my Honda Shadow's problem which I was never able to diagnose. Damn thing is still sitting broken in my garage back home.
This sounds exactly like the problem my old 150cc gy6 scoot had for a while. Ended up being improper hose routing (both gas and vacuum), so I would recheck all your lines. Could also be a leak, spray the vacuum line from the petcock with some carb cleaner to check.
That's all I got, sorry >.<
If you weren't using the prime setting on the petcock when the bike stopped, make sure you do. Fuel will not flow in reserve unless the engine is already running. This would not explain the subsequent stops, however.
In addition to the possible fuel system restrictions Adidasguy mentioned:
Next time it acts up, try running the bike in prime and see if the symptoms persist.
Also, check your fuel lines to make sure they're not too close to the engine and boiling your gas.
It wasn't on prime before, I'll be trying that on my next ride.
I took a look at my fuel and vacuum lines, saw a couple fuel lines close to the engine but far from the cylinders so I don't think that was the issue.
I noticed the drain tube from the airbox was slightly kinked and capped off at the end. This ain't an issue is it?
Air box drain has a cap - we call it a peenis like thingy - on the end. It lets stuff out and not let air in.
(Filter now filters out peeeenis and makes it pee pee.)
Also make sure your carb breather hose(aka carb overflow or carb vent) is tucked behind the airbox and out of any wind. This hose catching the wind can actually stall the engine at higher speeds.
- Bboy
If you need a good house routing reference google fuel hose routing on gs500 :thumb:
Thanks dude, I'll probably be replacing all my fuel hoses just to get that maintenance out of the way and eliminate that as a possible problem.
I've decided to hold off on paint until I knock out all my maintenance and figure out a new style of rear seat.
In the meantime, I've ordered new gauge overlays, clubman bars, grips, and bar end mirrors. That should tide me over for the short term
Here's the link for the proper fuel hose routing.
http://www.gstwin.com/fuel_hose_routing.htm
Sometimes they are messed up and you will have all sorts of problems, including carbs overflowing.
Well I got some new handlebars in and spent an hour installing. Loving the new look.
Before
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-02_12-00-22_113_zps31dcee28.jpg)
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-24_18-56-23_896_zps73224fee.jpg)
After
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-24_20-34-27_11_zpscadac89f.jpg)
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-24_20-34-35_395_zps958e84d5.jpg)
Installed the mirrors and took it out for my first ride since the new bars.
Damn things are so low I can barely back it out of the garage lol
I had those same style bars on my Yamaha cafe racer, damn right there a pain in the hiney when positioned like that, but you bet your bottom dollar they look good!
Got my new gauge overlays in, but I clumsily snapped the needles so I substituted in some cocktail swords lol. Work like a charm
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-01-27_16-16-21_126_zpse94b9c6e.jpg)
Also figured out my highway stalling issue. Petcock set to prime got rid of any issues for a whole day's worth of riding
Quote from: m_melen on January 27, 2013, 02:24:11 PMAlso figured out my highway stalling issue. Petcock set to prime got rid of any issues for a whole day's worth of riding
Check to make sure that the vacuum line between the left carb and the petcock doesn't have any leaks in it.
If not, you can either replace the petcock or convert it to a manual petcock by turning the valve core, selector, and retaining cover 180 degrees. (on and res inlets are reversed, prime is off)
Little advice for pulling that center knob out.
As I assume you tried to with your fingers and snapped the needles.
(I tried that too & almost broke mine)
Needle nose pliers on the sides of the middle part.
I like those green needles on the white. I think the accidental break and fix gave you better looking gauges. :thumb:
Ill take a look at that vacuum line next time i have the tank off, ive just been driving on "prime" all week.
As for the needles, I actually placed spoons underneath both sides and lifted gently when they snapped, I guess they were just meant to break. The new needles have 30+ hours of use so far with no problems, I think they'll last.
Did a front brake flush this morning and cleaned all the dirt out of the reservoir which has fixed my sticky/binding brake lever completely, thank God. I was avoiding the front brakes completely for the last week because they were so unpredictable before the flush.
Next issue, my throttle doesn't snap back when released. Common issue?
Quote from: m_melen on February 01, 2013, 10:03:17 AMNext issue, my throttle doesn't snap back when released. Common issue?
Reach in under your carbs and see if they spring back closed if you push them open manually. If so, you probably just need to oil your throttle tube or cable.
Bar ends can be rubbing against the throttle hand grip.
Or be happy with it - you have a free throttle lock for long trips!
I think it was the bar end mirror rubbing against it. I repositioned the handlebars and all the controls tonight and now she snaps back like new. Errrrreh!
Quote from: BockinBboy on January 13, 2013, 01:05:09 AM
Stills smokes after warming up? Have you read the plugs? What does it do with choke? Any delay on throttle response?
White smoke is usually just vapor and is more prevalent in the cold. It also typically goes away once the bike has fully warmed up just like most cars do in the cold. Does the smoke hang around or does it quickly dissipate?
These bikes are cold blooded and take a bit of time to warm up. How long did you let it warm up? Does it still stall after it has warmed up?
Apologies for the barrage of questions. Just trying to get a full picture for myself or others to help out better. Don't want you to waste your time on smalls, or miss the bigs if we can catch it with easy Q&As. Means less time on the sideline and more time riding!
- Bboy
If carbs are clean, and temp os 35ish or higher. id say less than 2 mins. ( been my average on gs warmups. ) did the k&n lunchbox and gixxer wedge can exhaust mod. fine tunes the carbs a tad and 1 min and 15 seconds she was ready to roll.
Love those clubman bars! I've got the chrome ones on my bike. Best mod I've ever done
Aren't they great? It took several rides to decide on a comfy position for them but they're great now.
My short-term tasks:
-Clean up the years of nasty grime on the frame from previous owners
-New chain and sprockets
-Figure out why the bike is only driveable on "prime"
-Find reasonably priced brakes
-Fix leaky fork seal (ordered a sealmate repair kit)
-Pick a paint scheme
Quote from: m_melen on February 09, 2013, 08:30:32 AM
Aren't they great? It took several rides to decide on a comfy position for them but they're great now.
My short-term tasks:
-Clean up the years of nasty grime on the frame from previous owners
-New chain and sprockets
-Figure out why the bike is only driveable on "prime"
-Find reasonably priced brakes
-Fix leaky fork seal (ordered a sealmate repair kit)
-Pick a paint scheme
I kinda fell right into my riding position... Where my rib cage meets my chest plate rests on the crest of the tank lol. Unless I'm feeling like a cruiser then it's more arm weight and more upright. Either way, they're awesome!
Quote from: m_melen on February 09, 2013, 08:30:32 AM
Aren't they great? It took several rides to decide on a comfy position for them but they're great now.
My short-term tasks:
-Clean up the years of nasty grime on the frame from previous owners
-New chain and sprockets
-Figure out why the bike is only driveable on "prime"
-Find reasonably priced brakes
-Fix leaky fork seal (ordered a sealmate repair kit)
-Pick a paint scheme
Man you want to repaint everything?? I will send you some crappy colored fairings, fender, and gas tank that you can paint up whatever you want for yours plus some. That color scheme is awesome.
I have to decide if I want to repaint in the same color or change the scheme entirely.
Either way, she needs paint as the tank is chipped and rusting and both rear fenders are cracked and have chips too.
On a side note, the SealMate tool appears to have been $6 very well spent. Took 5 min to use and so far no more leaky from my right fork. I'll keep an eye on it, but I gave the front suspension a beating afterwards and not a drop of leakage.
From a guy 20+ hours into the process currently, think long and hard about that decision, lol. Do you want shnazzy new paint, or do you want to be able to ride your bike? This weekend the temps here are in the mid 60's and I reeeeally wish I had my bike put together.
I'm glad I'm painting mine, but it's killing me to not be able to actually ride my new toy!
Downtime with the bike while prepping for paint does kill you, but if you're happy with the end result it was all worth it. Besides, there is still plenty enough time to finish the bike before most peoples riding season starts. I think a dark blue would look pretty nice with those gun metal grey rims you got melen. I would definitely suggest you get some of those decals that you slap on and then pull the clear wrap off that say Suzuki.
Happy fishing!
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 16, 2013, 12:32:23 AM
From a guy 20+ hours into the process currently, think long and hard about that decision, lol. Do you want shnazzy new paint, or do you want to be able to ride your bike? This weekend the temps here are in the mid 60's and I reeeeally wish I had my bike put together.
I'm glad I'm painting mine, but it's killing me to not be able to actually ride my new toy!
Solution:
1. Have more than one bike
2. Have duplicate sets of tank & plastics so you can paint the set then simply swap things out with minimal down time (like an hour at most)
I abide by both rules just to be on the safe side.
^^
He also has a couple hundred gs's in his bike cave... ;)
I saw an ad on Craigslist for $1500 for 2 90's GS's that I wanted to jump on so bad.
Anyways, I picked up a can of primer and a can of red metallic to test out when my eBay fender arrives for the front wheel.
Do y'all know if the 2k clear coat goes well on metal specks style paint?
Also, my right rear fender has a crack and chip along the edge. Any product recommendations to fix/fill? Or maybe a $30 eBay fender is in order.
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-02-21_20-06-35_45_zps08530359.jpg)
Quote from: m_melen on February 21, 2013, 06:25:13 PM
I saw an ad on Craigslist for $1500 for 2 90's GS's that I wanted to jump on so bad.
Anyways, I picked up a can of primer and a can of red metallic to test out when my eBay fender arrives for the front wheel.
Do y'all know if the 2k clear coat goes well on metal specks style paint?
Also, my right rear fender has a crack and chip along the edge. Any product recommendations to fix/fill? Or maybe a $30 eBay fender is in order.
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-02-21_20-06-35_45_zps08530359.jpg)
Ask Tombstone, he did it and it looked sexy. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=63160.0
2kMax is a great clear on anything. I use it on Candy Antares Red, Pearl Novelty Black and other stuff (Those are Suzuki paints from colorrite).
If you're going to paint stuff, I have un-broken tails that are destined for the dumpster because everyone forgets I have a pile of them and need space for other stuff so I am tired of having scratched tails around and really am going to just throw them in recycling. (tried for a longer run-on sentence but ran out of breath.)
(( So many parts I just have too many of, including plastics. 40 cents per pound for aluminum so all those old top plates, wheels and crap should fetch quite a but. I need 500 pounds of steel to get a nickle a pound. Under that, they will take it, though, for free. ))
So I'm guessing you'd be willing to part with a right rear tail piece? How much shipped to NC?
I don't suppose you have another belly pan lying around too, do you?
I'll figure postage.
I don't have spare belly pans but here is a nice one on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321065129727?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Quote from: PatheticPuma on February 21, 2013, 07:40:51 PM
Quote from: m_melen on February 21, 2013, 06:25:13 PM
I saw an ad on Craigslist for $1500 for 2 90's GS's that I wanted to jump on so bad.
Anyways, I picked up a can of primer and a can of red metallic to test out when my eBay fender arrives for the front wheel.
Do y'all know if the 2k clear coat goes well on metal specks style paint?
Also, my right rear fender has a crack and chip along the edge. Any product recommendations to fix/fill? Or maybe a $30 eBay fender is in order.
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-02-21_20-06-35_45_zps08530359.jpg)
Ask Tombstone, he did it and it looked sexy. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=63160.0
Thanks for the praise! :thumb:
Heres my old build thread on my previous bike.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58225.0
and here is the cheapest site to get the 2K clear from.
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
The red on the bike.
Duplicolor White regular Primer.
Duplicolor Retro Red Metal Specks.
2K Clear.
Until I had a little mishap from tilting the gas tank too much while working on the bike and gas leaked out of the top.
it leaked for a good 10 minutes and didnt eat through the clear, it actually seeped & ate the paint UNDER it! (from the lack of clear completely to the gas spout on top of the tank)
after that I used the duplicolor grey primer filler in the pic below to redo the tank instead of the white regular primer.
the white primer, the paint seemed a little lighter up close.
with the grey, a little darker.
Heres what I used on the headlight cowl.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0103.jpg)
here is the last Good pics I took of the bike before trading it.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/315337_4135828395229_1001507758_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/541690_4135829075246_656758784_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/314760_4236227825152_250466425_n.jpg)
If you plan to go the rattle can route.
The best advice I can give is Read and read some more! hahaha
Proper prep is KEY!
and painting.
You dont have to wait until the layers / steps dry and cure before moving onto the next step & then having to sand between them.
like going from primer to color, color to clear.
I read this first and then tried it and it worked for me just fine.
you can go from bare metal to fully 100% painted and done in one shot.
Just have to wait say 10 to 15 minutes between each coat.
depends on the thickness on how long to wait to spray more.
obviously the first very light coat you will wait less before spraying the 2nd.
you might already know this tho.
just trying to help :thumb:
Your bike was actually the reason I went for the metal specks paint. I bought grey primer since I want a little deeper/darker shade. How many cans of the 2k clear did you end up using?
My plan is tank and all plastics red, everything else on the bike black including wheels with a red lip.
I saw that belly pan on eBay, I just can't bring myself to spend another $150 right now, I'm on a lowly government pay lol
Adidasguy, you wouldn't have an unwarped rear brake rotor lying around too, would you?
Quote from: m_melen on February 22, 2013, 11:53:39 AM
Your bike was actually the reason I went for the metal specks paint. I bought grey primer since I want a little deeper/darker shade. How many cans of the 2k clear did you end up using?
My plan is tank and all plastics red, everything else on the bike black including wheels with a red lip.
I saw that belly pan on eBay, I just can't bring myself to spend another $150 right now, I'm on a lowly government pay lol
and thanks for even more praise! :bowdown: :thumb:
Honestly and being 100% serious.
I wouldnt touch the frame or the rims.
1. the gunmetal color is absolutely SWEEEEEET with the red!
2nd. Rattle can SUCKS on rims!
It chips so easily there its not funny!
I never took pics of mine up close, but yeah >:(
but its your bike.
IF you redo the rims black, I would go with powder coating.
The frame (if ur thinking about it but I personally wouldnt)
same as the rims.
I had to touch mine up with black enamel WAYYYY too many times from scratching it up while working on the bike.
and you wont get a good paint job on the frame unless its bare.
how many cans of clear?
I didnt use any on the black frame.
I tried to but it didnt look right on the black enamel.
it fogged it up quite a bit.
so the black enamel didnt get any clear at all.
If the clear is only for the red pieces & a belly pan possibly.
I would say 3 cans.
4 if your in doubt, just to cover ur ass incase of any mistakes.
(edit)
looking at your 2nd pic on the initial post.
if its only the front & rear fenders, & the tank going red.
I say 3 would be Plenty.
(edit again)
and since you dont have one on in the pics.
I would say get the custom made GS500 metal chain guard from adidas if he hasnt said to yet.
It looks MUCH better then the stock nasty plastic.
I Really enjoyed mine.
(edit yet Again!)
sry I always think of something else!
Yes I HIGHLY suggest the 2K clear!
I actually did the headlight cowl initially with Duplicolor clear.
Because I didnt feel like waiting for the 2K.
it came out lookin like absolute GARBAGE!!!
did nothing differently then I normally do either.
I have rotors.
A friend in Seattle did this, then sold it last year. Now being sold again I think for the second time. Was for sale if the fall. Not sure if same person selling or another person. (I helped with some parts for the original fix-up 2 years ago.) Rims are rattle can and holding up.
Eastwood and others do make tough wheel rim paints.
What red can look like:
[attachment deleted by admin]
Damn that's a lot of clear. How many coats did you do?
I'll be leaving the frame and wheels alone for the next couple months just for the sake of not tearing the bike down. Me likee riding instead of just staring at it.
Maybe I'll like the gunmetal after all. I'll probably tear the whole bike down next winter for a rebuild and restore. I'm probably going to experiment with using black on little silver bits like the headlamp bucket.
Whadya think of a thick white stripe on the tank with pinstripe on either side?
3 isnt much.
Yeah its more expensive then store bought crap, but trust me, its WELL worth it!
Its better to have more and not need it then it would be to have less and run out when you need more tho. :thumb:
I didnt count how many coats I did.
I started out VERY light and slowly worked my way up to where I thought it was nice and thick enough.
I just simply eyed it out.
Actually I did count on my headlight cowl.
Not intentionally, but just took pics between coats as I had to have something to do in between.
You'll notice as it starts out dull and gets shinier and shinier. (your spraying first hand, not the pics)
It will start to get a nice thickness and shiny, and then you'll be like, Okay, I like it there.
which is basically what I did.
First to last coat in order.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0104.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0105.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0106.jpg)
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Chronno1201/100_0106.jpg)
White stripe?
dunno, I actually like the white Suzuki logo on ur tank tho.
(edit)
its sad too, they dont sell that specific paint in anything but a rattle can :(
I emailed and asked Duplicolor.
I was actually going to have my current bike redone professionally with it if they did.
For the best tho.
Went with the stock Candy Red. (still not done)
That Suzuki logo is gonna get sanded off when I paint the tank. Up close the white is faded and creamy, little bits of the logo faded off, etc.
Quote from: adidasguy on February 22, 2013, 12:51:34 PM
I have rotors.
A friend in Seattle did this, then sold it last year. Now being sold again I think for the second time. Was for sale if the fall. Not sure if same person selling or another person. (I helped with some parts for the original fix-up 2 years ago.) Rims are rattle can and holding up.
Eastwood and others do make tough wheel rim paints.
What red can look like:
Awesome, let me know how much for one of your better rear rotors and that right rear fender shipped to 28540 when you find out
Quote from: adidasguy on February 16, 2013, 11:03:14 AM
Solution:
1. Have more than one bike
2. Have duplicate sets of tank & plastics so you can paint the set then simply swap things out with minimal down time (like an hour at most)
I abide by both rules just to be on the safe side.
Don't forget the extra set of wheels and tires as well as an indentured servant who will paint all those spare parts while you're out riding. Geeze, if only I were loaded like adidas... :icon_lol:
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 23, 2013, 12:57:17 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on February 16, 2013, 11:03:14 AM
Don't forget the extra set of wheels and tires as well as an indentured servant who will paint all those spare parts while you're out riding. Geeze, if only I were loaded like adidas... :icon_lol:
Not loaded, just single... Hahahaha
Took apart the headlamp to paint, and found some interesting wiring work...
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-02-24_15-11-05_159_zps084725c4.jpg)
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-02-24_15-11-18_150_zps8db99d0d.jpg)
My guess is that all these wires have to do with the kill switch, which a previous owner removed
Is the kill switch physically removed or just not working? I assume if someone went through the trouble to do that the switch itself doesn't work and they just bypassed it.
Otherwise, I can't think of a logical reason for someone to bypass a killswitch. On the other hand, that wiring job seems to be quite the opposite of logical :icon_lol:
If it is removed... do you just have a big hole there?
It wasn't working so the previous owner yanked it out. Big hole covered with electrical tape lol
Painted the headlamp bucket black, the silver wasn't gonna work with my projected color scheme.
Not a great pic, but it looks good in person
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/2013-02-28_13-23-09_691_zpse0f77c59.jpg)
Got my extra fender painted to test the new color.
Duplicolor metal specks red, 2k max clear coat. Pics don't do the shine justice
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/IMG_20130313_172038_071_zps73a041e8.jpg)
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/IMG_20130313_172023_531_zps2f68ce78.jpg)
Nice color! But its hardly any different? Looks good though. :thumb:
Lol it's similar but more metallic flake. Every red piece on the bike is either scratched, dull, or chipped and rusting, so it was time for a repaint.
Fresh paint!
I have a front wheel fender painted, just haven't had a chance to swap it out for the crappy one
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/PicsArt_1364235031781_zpsda92c4b1.jpg)
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/IMG_20130325_114604_157_zps2d7fb10f.jpg)
That's really sharp looking! Good Job. Goes nice with the club mans haha
Great job mang, loving the 2 tone tank! The first photo angle makes it looks killer :thumb:
Thanks guys, I'm pretty pleased. Just finished another improvement 5 min ago. Thanks to a hookup from adidasguy, I now am the proud owner of a functioning kill switch. The previous owner had pulled it out as seen in the first pic below.
Before
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/IMG_20130325_165001_278_zpsb70ff4ec.jpg)
After
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u606/mmelend1/IMG_20130325_164932_791_zps9fbba4ea.jpg)
Isn't it nice to have a bike where everything works like its supposed too? :D
Just in time too, I have a mandatory rider's course tomorrow and I think they might have thrown me out without a cutoff switch