I finally got the bike to run for the first time since I brought it home. Cleaned carbs and replaced plugs,oil, hoses,battery. When the bike is at full choke its idling around 4500 for the most part but its not consistant it lowers then jumps. If i go halfway on the choke the idle comes down a little but still runs rough and bogs down (I also here a pop sound every so often from the exhaust). If I take the choke off completely it stalls. Any input? Also there is a very weird smell almost like oil but dont know how to describe it. Help appreciated, BTW just want to say thanks to everyone because if it wasn't for this site I would be filing for bankruptcy after the mechanic bill.
When I accelerate the rpms lag for about 2 seconds before coming back down....do the throttle cables need adjustment?
Sounds like you need to go back through the carbs. Did you drill out the brass caps to be able to adjust the mixture screws? Did the out the right jets back in the correct places? Tighten the carb to intake boots?
Full choke (from what I've been told) makes the bike idle around 4k rpm's. After cleaning the carburetor, I'm surprised you need choke to keep the bike going. The popping is most likely unburnt gas igniting in the exhaust from the heat. My bike is exactly the same, I have to full choke it to get it to warm up, then I can finally take the choke off, I get popping only if I'm playing with the choke. I've learned to just leave it on full, ignore the loud revving, and wait for her to warm up.
Sounds like you need a valve adjustment too. You can do it yourself, but I've heard good things about taking it to a shop. That's just me though.
You shouldn't worry about the back fire, its probably just cause it hasn't ran continually for a while, its cold, or it has too much gas in the carbs. But like previously stated, you want to check you boot connections and make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. Were on the right track, the bike is running! :thumb:
I would 1+ Zethioth's comment. My bike also revs to 4k with full choke. I usually start it full choke and as the rpms go up I adjust the choke down to keep it a little above 3k until it warms up and stays idling around 1200.
It takes about 90 seconds to get it to stay idling now and I am in Florida where the weather has been mid 70's for a while. Earlier when it was colder (and when a Floridian says colder he actually means anything under 60) it took a bit longer to warm up and idle without choke, maybe 3 or 4 minutes.
I would also recommend a valve adjustment. Unburnt fuel entering your exhaust is a typical symptom. If you want to verify the valves are going without tearing the bike down you can check the compression on each cylinder. Rent a compression tester from your local parts shop and pull the plugs to check the pressure. I think on the gs anything over 110 psi is pretty good.
Exhaust popping and hanging idle sound related and like a lean condition to me. 4500 sounds a little high even for choke on. Dies when you remove choke sounds like fuel starved, granted it will do this if not fully warmed up (these bikes are cold blooded). Also, erratic idle rpm sounds like a vacuum leak, which ties together all of your symptoms in nice theory.
But before we start making assumptions, lets go back a little and cover some bases.
Check your plugs. What color are they? Whitish is lean, dark is rich. Do they look the same?
Check your float height via U-tube method to ensure proper fuel delivery to both carbs.
Check for air leaks around the carbs, especially around the boots. Spray carb cleaner around these points to listen for rpm changes.
:cheers:
- Bboy
so I think I am going to pull the carbs off one last time before giving up..I never touched idle/mixture so I will check that..I am going to rejet and put in lunchbox (maybe even a ham sandwich :thumb: :woohoo:) figured since I havent replaced the air filter might as well upgrade and make room for my large hands while working on the bike. Also I am going to check the valve clearance as well (might as well while im in there) if all else fails might have to send her to a mechanic (last resort) I am a new rider and just want her to be safe before getting on her :thumb: will update when all that is completed but feel free to throw more things at me I always appreciate advice
Saw a couple people had the following set up so am going to go with that: 20/65/142.5. 3 turns 3mm washer
BTW stock exhaust with lunchbox and ham sandwich
Thank you all
I'll add:
I've seen many many threads on rejetting and mixture turns and washers under needles etc etc. Do yourself a favor and get it to run right with the stock setup first, before your start chasing a moving target. Eliminate variables before you create more. It will only make it easier.
- Bboy
Quote from: BockinBboy on January 12, 2013, 01:21:45 AM
I'll add:
I've seen many many threads on rejetting and mixture turns and washers under needles etc etc. Do yourself a favor and get it to run right with the stock setup first, before your start chasing a moving target. Eliminate variables before you create more. It will only make it easier.
- Bboy
Very true, great point Bboy... I am going to check for vac leaks and float height next...one of my floats were sticking so that could have something to do with it..will check back in later
Quote from: mchollan on January 11, 2013, 08:26:00 PM
I usually start it full choke and as the rpms go up I adjust the choke down to keep it a little above 3k until it warms up and stays idling around 1200.
I've asked before, but I can never seem to find a different choke point. It's either 4k or idle for me, If I move my choke closer to off, with the intentions of lowering the revs, my bike will die... How do you find 3k? :dunno_black:
Quote from: Zethioth on January 12, 2013, 07:24:45 AM
Quote from: mchollan on January 11, 2013, 08:26:00 PM
I usually start it full choke and as the rpms go up I adjust the choke down to keep it a little above 3k until it warms up and stays idling around 1200.
I've asked before, but I can never seem to find a different choke point. It's either 4k or idle for me, If I move my choke closer to off, with the intentions of lowering the revs, my bike will die... How do you find 3k? :dunno_black:
That's the same problem I was having until I pulled the choke assembly out of the carb and gave it a nice cleaning, then I lubed the choke cable and cleaned the little friction plate the holds the choke lever in place. Now I just have to make really fine adjustments on the choke while it is running to keep it around 3k.
So I found the problem....seems the PO treated her terribly and must have dropped the carbs and there is a crack in the left round part that inserts into the air box....cant believe I never saw it, its such an obvious thing, well ordered a pair of carbs off ebay for 120 (certified used off a yard im assuming but includes 6 month warranty) so till that comes in guess its time to clean the garage
Sorry to hear that man. Is the crack in metal body of the carb? Since you are trashing the carbs anyway you might want to try scuffing up the area around the crack and use some JB weld to patch the crack. Once jb weld cures it's somewhat machinable so you can blob it on there and then use a dremel tool to smooth it out. Again its worth a shot if you are trashing it carbs anyway.
Quote from: mchollan on January 12, 2013, 07:07:13 PM
Sorry to hear that man. Is the crack in metal body of the carb? Since you are trashing the carbs anyway you might want to try scuffing up the area around the crack and use some JB weld to patch the crack. Once jb weld cures it's somewhat machinable so you can blob it on there and then use a dremel tool to smooth it out. Again its worth a shot if you are trashing it carbs anyway.
yea its in the metal but its not only cracked but bent in as well so they are most likely done might try and part it out or keep it for spares (floats screws,etc)
Carb parts are very sought after. Good idea.
Quote from: BockinBboy on January 11, 2013, 10:36:48 PM
Exhaust popping and hanging idle sound related and like a lean condition to me. 4500 sounds a little high even for choke on. Dies when you remove choke sounds like fuel starved, granted it will do this if not fully warmed up (these bikes are cold blooded). Also, erratic idle rpm sounds like a vacuum leak, which ties together all of your symptoms in nice theory.
Quote from: NjDan on January 12, 2013, 07:02:47 PM
So I found the problem....seems the PO treated her terribly and must have dropped the carbs and there is a crack in the left round part that inserts into the air box....cant believe I never saw it, its such an obvious thing, well ordered a pair of carbs off ebay for 120 (certified used off a yard im assuming but includes 6 month warranty) so till that comes in guess its time to clean the garage
Vaccuum leak it is! ... you just had too many related symptoms for it to be a coincidence.
Honestly, vaccuum leaks normally can be hard to find. Yeah, yeah, the PO shouldn't have left you with a cracked carb housing knowingly, but the bright side there being a crack easy to spot was that the source of the leak won't haunt you forever, and many folks end up spending money at a dealer before finding the leak. $120 isn't bad getaway for sourcing and fixing a leak quickly and cleanly.
You would be smart to keep your old set of carbs for parts. Might as well clean them up nicely for proper storage.
- Bboy
Just read one of your old threads... Found a little more of the story here. That really sucks you've spent so much time on the carbs in the first place. Had to go through them a bunch to get the bike to run in the first place... if the PO was straight up about dropping the carbs in the first place, you would have had the bike running without wasting your time on trashed carbs.
Now the bright side, you know more about your bike than you would have... and you know how to remove and clean carbs, etc..
- Bboy
Quote from: BockinBboy on January 14, 2013, 07:42:51 AM
Just read one of your old threads... Found a little more of the story here. That really sucks you've spent so much time on the carbs in the first place. Had to go through them a bunch to get the bike to run in the first place... if the PO was straight up about dropping the carbs in the first place, you would have had the bike running without wasting your time on trashed carbs.
Now the bright side, you know more about your bike than you would have... and you know how to remove and clean carbs, etc..
- Bboy
Very true Bboy, I rather do my own maintenance on my vehicles anyway. Ive always learned through research and trying it myself but I had zero motorcycle mechanic experience before I bought the bike and learned a lot already. This site and all of you who had run into the problems that I have helped me out a whole lot. I am going to clean the carbs up real good for storage, and next on the agenda is checking valves because that can contribute to it too. The bike only has 5k on it but you never know.
So as I was flirting around with the bike this afternoon the ups guy passes by my garage (ii live on a corner, garage faces one side of the house and front door the other) he says hey buddy you got a package out there...so I knew what it already was raced to the door opened the package and long story short put the carbs on the bike and kissed it and gave it a big hug after hearing her run....MISSION SUCCESS...thank you everyone you guys are awesome
Quote from: NjDan on January 16, 2013, 09:00:54 PM
long story short put the carbs on the bike and kissed it and gave it a big hug after hearing her run....MISSION SUCCESS...thank you everyone you guys are awesome
This is why I love GSTwins.
Congrats! :thumb:
(Even though I had nothing to do with your help, I'm happy for you're success)