Hey Guys, great site here! I'm a new motorcyclist and picked up an '89 Suzuki GS500E with headlight cowl and belly pan with 9k original miles for my first ride. I'm a sucker for the rare/odd/unique (I drove an AMC Pacer back in college many moons ago) so I was eyeing a Buell Blast for my first bike, but stumbled upon this GS on craigslist for a decent price ($1200- which is decent compared to the average price for a Blast), low miles, seemingly rare fairings and clip on bars and better performance and features than the Blast. I'm pretty happy with my decision (and I'm sure you all are as well).
Even though I'm completely new to bikes, I have a propensity for tinkering and "improving" things- so naturally I can't just slap some new tires on the GS and ride it (though I am doing that as well, opted for stock sized Pirelli's). So in my down time waiting for my MSF course, I'm tinkering. Here are my project breakdown:
Paint
The bike is in good condition, but has been repainted and could use a good sand down and paint job as decals are missing (and I don't like white). I plan on a solid paint scheme of charcoal gray with burnt orange wheels. Final paint selection was Rustoleum Charcoal Gray and Sienna Mist.
Minor body work
Needs a dent popped on the top of the tank, rear center fairing cover replaced, right crank case Suzuki sticker and a few small cracks in fairings repaired.
Cosmetic body alterations
1. Remove headlight cowl
2. Reshape the tail plastics by rounding the sharp, angular cuts. This is a fairly simple process, but I have not found anyone who has done it before, so I'm looking forward to the results.
3. Install bar end, short stem mirrors
4. Replace stock front fender with Airtech fender
5. Replace stock turn signals with aftermarket LEDs
- Front blinkers are short stemed and round to match the headlight
- Rear blinkers are flush mounted/integrated into the tail fairing, allowing for an "uber fenderectomy"
6. Corbin Gunfighter seat
7. GSXR modified pegs for rider and passenger
8. Cut inlets/vents into tail fairings- this will flow with the belly pan styling as well as pay homage to the F model.
Upgrades
1. Fiamm Highway Blaster horn
2. K&N "lunchbox" air intake
3. Yoshimura R-77 carbon fiber exhaust
4. 40/147.5 rejet
5. LED flasher relay and diodes (CustomLED.com)
6. Pro Grip 724 grips (black w/gray)
7. Perelli Sport Demon tyres
8. Back Off Brake light module
9. Motion Pro SV650 throttle tube
I'll post progress pics as they come. Any input or words of wisdom from old sages are welcome. UPDATE: She's pretty much complete, though I'm sure I'll continue to tinker. She has now been dubbed "The Spartan" for obvious reasons :D
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-01-13153227_zps4e9709a2.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-01-13153227_zps4e9709a2.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-13194513_zps365a664b.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-13194513_zps365a664b.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-24205920.png) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-24205920.png.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_89GS500E2.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/89GS500E2.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-03-16182103.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-03-16182103.jpg.html)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_Front3.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/Front3.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-03-04073525.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04073525.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-03-04073112.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04073112.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-03-04072938.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04072938.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-27193937.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-27193937.jpg.html)
You're lucky to have the original OEM headlight cowling and belly pan. Those are rare.
Front fender: actually all are the same though later years did not have the fender extender (and mud flap) on the back end. Not sure how you mean you ordered a different type of fender.
Tank appears to be original paint as those are the original pin stripes and logo. The tail plastics have been repainted. There was a brand new original white tail set on ebay for about $65 last week. It would match the tank's original design.
I've always liked the original 1989 white with the blue/black stripes.
There are lots of resources here on the board. If you need parts, always check here as there are a few parts whores with loads of parts in storage.
Enjoy your new toy!
Yeah, I was curious about the fender as well. All I know is the ebay auction was listed as a fender from a '91 GS donor bike and it is most definitely NOT the same style as my '89 fender. Here's a pic from the ebay listing:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/Fender_zps9385ec78.jpg)
I found a pic online of a GS that appears to have this style (or very similar) of fender, but no info on it:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/SuzukiGS50091_zpsb17249c5.jpg)
Any guesses?
That looks similar to the airtech after market fender.
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/suzuz/GS500Titan.htm
The red bike has a GS500 engine and frame, but the tank, seat, tail and front end are off a different bike. Very cool actually.
Please don't mess with the original 1989 white. You have a nice specimen of the best looking "E" model with all the extras.
Good call on the fender- I believe you are correct. It appears to be an Airtech aftermarket part.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on January 17, 2013, 04:52:33 PM
Please don't mess with the original 1989 white. You have a nice specimen of the best looking "E" model with all the extras.
Haha, I knew there would be a few purists who would rain on my parade! ;)
That's not a true OEM GS500 fender. It is the Airtech.
As a suggestion - post want-to-buy's on this board. I have one of those airtech fenders - brand new - and I can't find anyone that wants it. I bought it at a steal but prefer the OEM fenders, so it sits on the shelf.
I'll keep that in mind- but for a newbie like myself who doesn't even know what he's looking for until he sees it, trading on forum boards isn't always the best bet. Maybe you should list your Airtech fender on ebay and see if you can finally get rid of it ;)
I know it's all a matter of preference, but I really like the design of the Airtech.
First thing I would do with that is take off that windscreen. In my opinion those are very ugly, the naked look is much better, just like with women. :thumb:
Nice looking though, you did get a steal. How does it run?
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on January 17, 2013, 04:38:44 PM
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/SuzukiGS50091_zpsb17249c5.jpg)
Not much left of a GS500 there: Different forks, headlight, gauges, tank, airfilter, seat, tail, shock, pillion pegs, swinger, rear tire... list prolly goes on to include exhaust and other things... Unless its just a different bike altogether, as I'm not familar with the GS lines that went over seas. One example is the GS450 looked awfully similar to the 89-00 gs500s, and has a lot of compatible parts.
- Bboy
Jacob,
She runs like new as far as I can tell- that is to say, you have to choke the hell out of her on a cold day. But once she's warmed up, she purrs and revs smooth. I'm not crazy about the windscreen/cowl either, but I can't quite give it up either just because they are so rare on these bikes. Life is full of difficult decisions... Maybe I'll swap it out for a Monster mini windscreen rather than alter the stock one- that way I can go back to 100% OEM body if I ever want to sell.
Bockin,
Yeah, I was only using that pic as a reference for the front fender design. If it's any consolation to the GS Purists, I intend to keep 95% of the parts original on my build.
Don't feel like anyone is bashing your build. In fact most of us readers, love to see the builds on here (MANY PICS are a sure way to win over the crowd). Nice original machines are few, but they aren't unique. They often cost much more to keep or return to original than anything else. While anyone can appreciate an original piece, its not economical for most... and original may not suit your needs, or be what you wanted out of a bike in the first place...
So definately keep up the posts and pics, you'll have a following (including the purists), all of us appreciate craftsmanship and quality handywork.
Just keep in mind, that there are parts whores on the board that may want OEM parts if you decide you don't need or want anything... or if you decide you need anything from updated years, you can buy them there too.
- Bboy
The GS old timers will cut their arm and both legs off for a original 89 ... My first one was a white ... some others I know were the black, and NO REAL gs FAN will ever repaint one of those.
For the choking like crazy and takes forever to warm ... The carbs need rejetted ... what else is new.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on January 18, 2013, 01:51:51 PM
NO REAL gs FAN will ever repaint one of those.
Shoot Buddha, does this mean we can't be friends? Man, I'm not on here but a few days and I've already fallen from grace with the moderators!
The way I see it, we have 3 options:
1. A
real GS fan buys my bike for an offer I can't refuse, I then find another bike to suit my needs
2. I give in to anonymous internet peer pressure and allow others to live vicariously through me, suffering for the greater good of the GS community
3. GS purists swallow their pride and recognize beauty is in the eye of the beholder and give me their blessing to follow my heart ;)
Do what you want as long as you don't turn it into a POS.
I find the inner beauty of the GS500 and work to make all my bikes the best GS500 they can be. You can browse the photos of Phenix and when you find pictures of Junior - you'll see he has gone through a few different sets of clothes - though all are GS500.
I've painted an OEM headlight cowling - it was that god awful teal which isn't very appealing.
As for cutting it up - DO NOT DO THAT! An OEM is worth quite a bit. There are many many aftermarket headlight cowlings you can cut to your heart's desire. There is one by Skidmarx which is very close to the OEM and cheap. Get that, cut it up and sell the OEM.
You'll be $'s ahead and won't piss off the buddha.
Whatever you do, go slow. Too often people jump in, cut up everything and then realize it was a bad idea. Take your time and do things that really make sense.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on January 17, 2013, 07:21:33 PM
I know it's all a matter of preference, but I really like the design of the Airtech.
I like the airtech as well.
Quote from: PatheticPuma on January 18, 2013, 04:28:58 PM
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on January 17, 2013, 07:21:33 PM
I know it's all a matter of preference, but I really like the design of the Airtech.
I like the airtech as well.
I have one. Want it?
adidasguy,
Good advice. I could certainly pass the OEM cowl on to someone who wants it... Though the Skidmarx is listed at around $125 USD on their site- hardly cheap for a bit of plastic. What would be a fair price for the OEM cowl if I tried to sell it to recoup my losses? Or is there a better place to look for an aftermarket cowl?
Quote from: adidasguy on January 18, 2013, 04:24:35 PM
Do what you want as long as you don't turn it into a POS.
Duly noted.
Skidmarx is fiberglass, like the OEM. There are lots of generic headlight cowlings for 7" headlight. I've had others and passed them on to other people because I didn't need them. I got some from the UK but postage from the one company got too expensive. Probably google "headlight cowling" or "bikini fairing" or someone else may know of current sources.
I've bought kind of crappy OEM's for $75+. If yours is in really good condition, it could go $125+.
I think most of us would say that a rare OEM part is worth saving just because it is a rare OEM part. Preserving history.
While you can cut it up, but you would not make any friends over it.
For posterity, even if you don't recoup your expenses if you buy another cowling and sell the OEM, you will make friends by preserving the original part. Once you cut the OEM - you'll never get another chance. Buy a new aftermarket one and if you mess up, just buy another one.
Well I started the dismantle today.
The plastic was spray painted- right over the factory decals. So I'm definitely stripping this paint down. The tank is the only thing that still has original paint on it. As I took the fairings off, I realized there was quite a bit of overspray on the frame and engine as well, so a lot of my afternoon was spraying Goof Off all over and rubbing the bike down as best I could. I also notices a few bolts and screws missing from random parts as well as, uh, a hose that led to nowhere on both ends...
I'm definitely going to double check every wire and hose on this thing before I drive it. But first, all the cleanup work, new tires and paint. I also picked up a used Corbin (Dallas?) Gunfighter seat on ebay for cheap. Looking forward to slapping that on. More pics next weekend ;)
Obvious overspray:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-19140638_zps1997d233.jpg)
Missing cover and more overspray:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-19140702_zps26b35a84.jpg)
Hah. I hope I'm not the only one to catch the Bruce Willis reference
Do what you'd like with it, but please, don't turn it into a complete POS.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Look at my sig pic, that's my bike pre-inferno (I thought the flames would make it faster, psh).
Ripped off the fairings, debadged it, 89 clipons, integrated tail-light, crash bars, headlight (from adidas himself, btw), raised it with a gsf1k shock, sonic springs, 20w oil, good rubber, 15 front sprocket, etcetc.
It was sharp. Would make a purist probably roll in their grave, but it was not a butcher job.
P.S. I saved all the original stuff, still in my garage after 2 moves.
Thanks for your understanding xunedeinx ;)
On a side note, has anyone taken a close look at the OEM belly pan? That thing is the most asymmetrical piece of work I have ever seen. The right side is longer than the left side (to make room for the shift pedal)- that's understandable, but still weird. But the slits/air openings are different sizes on each side too! And the front dual openings with the chicken wire mesh? Yep, they aren't the symmetrical either. It's like the designers were drunk when they punched in the AutoCAD numbers that day. When it's on the bike you can't really tell, but dang, you'd expect better quality workmanship from the factory than that...
Can you see both sides at the same time?
It is true the length of the sides of the belly pan are different.
I hadn't notice a difference in the front or side holes, though. Suppose there could be some difference.
I have a couple of those belly pans in my stash of parts. There were stickers on them originally with the aqua blue and black stripes, as the tail plastics originally had.
Quote from: adidasguy on January 22, 2013, 12:51:24 PM
It is true the length of the sides of the belly pan are different.
I hadn't notice a difference in the front or side holes, though. Suppose there could be some difference.
I have a couple of those belly pans in my stash of parts. There were stickers on them originally with the aqua blue and black stripes, as the tail plastics originally had.
Yeah, the pinstripes were aqua blue and navy blue (matching my factory tank), so I know it is in fact an OEM belly pan. I'll post a pic when I get home to show the noticeable size differences.
And please check on the threaded stand offs used on the headlight to hold the headlight cowling. Those should go with the cowling and be replaced with normal bolts holding the headlight.
Here's my belly pan. Notice the different sized inlets/slits:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-22180010_zpsdacaa02c.jpg)
Here's the front intake. You can see the asymmetrical cuts, though they are minor:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-22175918_zps6371d8fa.jpg)
Quote from: adidasguy on January 22, 2013, 04:55:15 PM
And please check on the threaded stand offs used on the headlight to hold the headlight cowling. Those should go with the cowling and be replaced with normal bolts holding the headlight.
Yeah, I already took those off and will package them with the cowl. Thanks for the heads up though!
That's the way they are.
My 3 are all that way. You really don't notice it when on the bike.
No, you don't notice while it's on the bike... But why on earth would you purposefully design it that way? Imagine a car that had asymmetric body panels and looked different on one side than the other. The only car that comes to mind that tried this was the Nissan Cube and that thing is the epitome of ugly.
Hyundai Veloster
Quote from: xunedeinx on January 22, 2013, 11:45:28 PM
Hyundai Veloster
What? It has symmetrical body panels, it just has asymmetrical doors. Trucks have done that forever. Anyway, I'll quit griping about it- it just struck me as odd.
I was able to sand down the exhaust pipe and shoot it with 2000* paint tonight. It had a touch of rust and a lot of white overspray on it. Will remount it tomorrow. (Sorry, forgot to take a before/after shot).
Alright, so I've been making some progress. Here's the ever-so-slightly modified tail plastics. I just didn't like the harsh angle, so I rounded it off.
Before:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24214745_zps57be84a3.jpg)
After:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24214809_zps5417f303.jpg)
Also, I've been trying to pull this dent out of the top of my tank. I've tried the hot glue trick and the BP cuff trick. Neither have been successful. Anyone have any suggestions?
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg)
Maybe take it to someone that does PDR and them use a few more skillful tricks ;)
Whatever you do, don't weld a slide hammer to it! :technical:
Don't ask, just don't do it. The metal on the tanks is so stupid thin you could probably flick it and leave a dent.
OH! Idea! Take your tank off, drain it, remove the petcock on the bottom, and you may be able to use a long screw driver or something to push the dent out from there
You can try to get that dent out by heating up the metal pretty considerably with a hair dryer, then spraying really cool air on it, like key board cleaner etc.and the dent should pop out. Seen it done, never tried it myself.
Quote from: jacob92icu on January 27, 2013, 01:38:17 AM
You can try to get that dent out by heating up the metal pretty considerably with a hair dryer, then spraying really cool air on it, like key board cleaner etc.and the dent should pop out. Seen it done, never tried it myself.
I heard this also, a lot of people have tried it and it failed.
worked for me:
gopro suction cup, or similar very good suction cup, right in the middle, yank sharp and hard.
in other news, when your bike doesnt start, punching it only makes things worse. My temper has taught me hard lessons. learn from others' mistakes! :thumb:
Quote from: Zethioth on January 27, 2013, 04:21:29 PM
I heard this also, a lot of people have tried it and it failed.
I have also heard that it fails sometimes, but the youtube vid I watched it worked haha.
Yeah, well, the bike deserved getting punched :D
I had planned on trying the dent puller suction cups for sure- but I have a lot of doubts regarding the heating/cooling method on a dent this large. I've seen it work on hail and similar sized dents, but this is a large surface area to try to heat and super cool all around the edges rapidly enough to pop it.
If all else fails, I will indeed resort to calling the PDR guys- but that option isn't nearly as satisfying.
You dont want to try bondo at all?
Pressurize the tank then pull on the dent with strong suction cups?
Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep trying.
Right now in the middle of sanding the Airtech fender, the belly pan and the plastics. I almost forgot how much I hate sanding. I'm guessing it's going to take a minimum of 8-12 hours of hand sanding before I get to lay the first coat of primer on her. Ugh, I hate my life right now...
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 04, 2013, 11:03:42 PMI almost forgot how much I hate sanding. I'm guessing it's going to take a minimum of 8-12 hours of hand sanding before I get to lay the first coat of primer on her. Ugh, I hate my life right now...
Preparation is 90% of the finish. Just keep thinking about how awesome it's going to look when your done! :thumb:
Keep in mind spraying anything with a rattle can isn't going to look nearly as nice as something with an automotive paint gun like a Sata Jet
There is enough air pressure in rattle cans to atomizer the paint like a gun. The nozzle tips on most guns suck too
Quote from: weedahoe on February 05, 2013, 06:16:15 AM
Keep in mind spraying anything with a rattle can isn't going to look nearly as nice as something with an automotive paint gun like a Sata Jet
There isn't enough air pressure in rattle cans to atomizer the paint like a gun. The nozzle tips on most guns suck too
I realize spray paint isn't the best option, but it's the logical option on a bike that is only worth around $1,200. This is my first bike and while I do not intend on abusing her or laying her down, I recognize that what I intend and what actually happens can be very different. So I don't want to put thousands of dollars into a project that will not recoup any of that cost in resale and may not even survive my noob riding skills. :embarassed:
But while spray cans are inferior to spray guns, you can achieve good results with them with a little skill and patience. Warming the can in a bucket of hot water or hitting it with a blow dryer before you spray increases pressure and atomization and a lot of newer cans come with fan pattern spray nozzles. Several very light coats with sanding, rubbing compound and polishing before finshing with a 2KMax clear coat can turn out looking
almost as good as some professional paint jobs.
Certainly my rattle can job can't look any worse than the paint that was on the bike when I got it- they just sprayed right over factory decals, didn't mask anything off and let drips run all over the place, lol. Only the gas tank had factory paint still on it. Even so, at 5 feet away, the bike was passable. :o
^^^ If youre going to go through all of that, then why not just cough up $40 for a cheap HVLP gun and maybe $50 in paint and clear coat
My local paint ship sells paint as small as 4 oz
Well, I don't have a compressor, nor do I have any experience with spray guns, so I just figured the start up cost would be a couple hundred bucks, plus learning how to use the equipment may take some time.
Spray cans I have experience with and the cost of supplies is around 50-60 bucks... And a lot of free manual labor.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 05, 2013, 10:38:25 AM
Well, I don't have a compressor, nor do I have any experience with spray guns, so I just figured the start up cost would be a couple hundred bucks, plus learning how to use the equipment may take some time.
Spray cans I have experience with and the cost of supplies is around 50-60 bucks... And a lot of free manual labor.
Craigslist is your friend, you can find compressors and guns on the cheap pretty easily. At least here in West MI. Which is making me reconsider how I was going to paint my bike...
Spartacus, I think its alright if you want to just to rattle can jobs. Napa will mix any paint code for you in a rattle can minus the rattle, so you can go and get an original Suzuki color to paint your bike for cheap. The only thing bad about them is they don't last long and you will have to use it quick. I'm not saying that rattle can is the best, but with your situation, I think that it is probably the most logical. I have definitely done some good rattle can jobs, and they do turn out good if you sand properly and apply a good clear coat. These paint jobs just wont last as long, seeing as its your first bike, who cares?
Quote from: jacob92icu on February 05, 2013, 06:37:01 PM
Spartacus, I think its alright if you want to just to rattle can jobs. Napa will mix any paint code for you in a rattle can minus the rattle, so you can go and get an original Suzuki color to paint your bike for cheap. The only thing bad about them is they don't last long and you will have to use it quick. I'm not saying that rattle can is the best, but with your situation, I think that it is probably the most logical. I have definitely done some good rattle can jobs, and they do turn out good if you sand properly and apply a good clear coat. These paint jobs just wont last as long, seeing as its your first bike, who cares?
Exactly how I planned to paint my bike when I suggested Napa to you. Then looking a couple hours ago I found a compressor, regulators and 2 hvlp guns on CL for $50. Needs a little cleaning but for that cheap its worth it. If you want the longer lasting paint job and can find such a deal, why not? :thumb:
Plus, practice up a bit, get good, charge your friends, afford more parts/mods.
Well, if I could find a deal like that, I might go that route, but craigslist in the Las Vegas area is not coming up with much. Most compressors are over $100 and guns are at least another $100.
The NAPA idea is worth looking into, though I have no plans to go with an OEM color. At the moment I was planning on using good 'ole Rustoleum as it is cheap and readily available. Body color I want to be a dark gray (graphite/gunmetal) with red wheels. It's definitely Ducati inspired... Or should I say DUCAT-E? :icon_lol:
Haha nice. I used rustoleum to paint one of my bikes, turned out good. I've only had it for about a year so I dont know exactly how much the paint has been affected from aging. And holy crap puma, that definitely is deals on wheels. So I'm guessing you bought it or your going too?
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 05, 2013, 07:07:57 PM
Well, if I could find a deal like that, I might go that route, but craigslist in the Las Vegas area is not coming up with much. Most compressors are over $100 and guns are at least another $100.
The NAPA idea is worth looking into, though I have no plans to go with an OEM color. At the moment I was planning on using good 'ole Rustoleum as it is cheap and readily available. Body color I want to be a dark gray (graphite/gunmetal) with red wheels. It's definitely Ducati inspired... Or should I say DUCAT-E? :icon_lol:
Some Sherwin-Williams will mix it up as well. It's not much more cost wise. If you hop on google and search automotive paint near you, and do a little shopping. The key is do ALL the prep work and priming ahead of time. Have your pieces hung and ready to go. The cans are good for painting approximately 3 hours from mixing. Then once your paint is good and cured, have them mix up some clear coat for you. Thats how I painted my Nighthawk last year. And it turned out beautiful. They can mix up primer too, but I just use rattle can 2k filler primer.
Quote from: jacob92icu on February 05, 2013, 07:39:49 PM
Haha nice. I used rustoleum to paint one of my bikes, turned out good. I've only had it for about a year so I dont know exactly how much the paint has been affected from aging. And holy crap puma, that definitely is deals on wheels. So I'm guessing you bought it or your going too?
Offered the guy $60 to hold it for me until Friday. I cant really afford it right now, but at the same time I don't want to pass it up. Worse case scenario I can clean up one of the guns and get close to if not all of my money back by selling it.
Only bad thing about paint like that, gas will eat it so you better not spill any
Quote from: weedahoe on February 05, 2013, 09:09:00 PM
Only bad thing about paint like that, gas will eat it so you better not spill any
+1. I had a gas leak problem from the gas cap on the tank that I rattle can sprayed and man did I learn quick that a paper towel will not wipe up the spilled gas.
Apply a 2kMax clear coat. That stuff is fuel proof.
Any paint, if cured and you keep a good wax on it, you should be OK for a brief spill.
Good urethane will work pretty well. Then the 2kMax clear over it after it has cured for a couple weeks.
Quote from: weedahoe on February 05, 2013, 09:09:00 PM
Only bad thing about paint like that, gas will eat it so you better not spill any
Yeah, that's why I ponied up for the 2kMax clear coat. About $20 a can, but is the best clear coat you can get in a rattle can- heck, apparently even adidasguy uses it! :icon_eek:
I'm now about 4-5 hours into sanding and maybe 1/3rd the way through. Have the Airtech fender sanded down and the belly pan nearly finished.
Question: I used aircraft remover on the wheels and while it strips the rims well, it doesn't even put a dent in the paint on the spokes. Should I just rough sand it and then shoot it with primer? (Please don't say "sandblast it"- we all know by now what a cheapskate I am)
You could use a putty spreader to try and scrap the paint off. Only thing is you might scratch the rim. If you have the will power and a lot of time you can just keep rough sanding it, then wet sanding it over and over again.
Put in another 3 hours tonight. Did some fiberglass filling on the belly pan and fender and... was finally able to pull my gas tank dent! Took some time and finessing, but found a method that worked for me- a slight variation on the hot glue trick. Instead of sudden, sharp tugs, I tried slow steady force- pulling several low points working my way from the outside in. It still has some waves in it, so I'll have to spread a little bondo to get it perfect, but it's a massive improvement and saves my pride from having to call the PDR guys. See for yourself:
BEFORE:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg)
AFTER:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg)
MY METHOD:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg)
Here's my progress on the belly pan and fender- they're nearly ready for primer. Note that I "bored out" the front intake holes on the belly pan to be flush with the sides. Haven't decided yet if I'll replace the chicken wire mesh or leave them open.
BEFORE:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-01-22175918_zps6371d8fa.jpg)
SANDED:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06221022_zpscb2ce01d.jpg)
Nice job getting that dent out, looks clean now! I wish I had belly pan and air tech fender!! :(
I'm gonna have to search down one of those belly pans, looks so good!
:( another one bites the dust... I wish I could get my hands on one, but they're so expensive lol. They would be a really great addition to your airtech fender and aggressive riding position mustang.
I knowwww lol. And I have the gixxer pegs from the wiki already ordered as well to replace the big bulky stock ones. Should move my feet a little down and back as well. Not by much, but every little bit helps, and they look soooo much better. Coupled with the cafe tail I'll be fabbing up for this thing... I might just have to keep it
*Ahem*
Uh, excuse me gentlemen- this thread is supposed to be about my bike :D Though you now have piqued my interest in some new pegs...
Well, I finished up the sanding on the belly pan, fender, left tail plastic and the front wheel and started on the rear wheel and the other tail piece. Today I hope to finish the tail plastics, rear wheel and strip down the tank for bondo. If all goes well, I'll have some progress pics later tonight.
I tried using a mild stripper (the chemical ;) ) that was supposedly safe on synthetics. It worked so-so on the fiberglass but chewed the plastics up, so my shortcut turned into a life lesson- don't take shortcuts. Spent about 4 hours yesterday just doing detail work on the plastics to get them smoothed down and I'm sure I'll spend at least another 2-3 today. My hands are killing me, lol.
Well, I didn't get quite as much done this weekend as I'd hoped, but everything but the tank is ready for primer (wheels not pictured):
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-10193533_zps5dfad86d.jpg)
Eastwood has a product called PRE - you use it clean all the dust & oil off (hand oil, too) before painting and between coats. East wood and others have tac cloths. They pick up the sanding dust. Not sure what you have, but look into the stuff for removing dust & stuff between coats and before the first coat.
Hmmmm... I was just planning on using good 'ole dish soap and water. Is there a drawback to that method?
Dish soap leaves a soap film.
Get the right stuff at a local paint place. Prep and cleaning really makes a difference for the paint to stick and last.
Cleaners get the soap and oil off. Tack cloths remove dust.
Colorrite has some videos on touch up painting that shows how to use their products. Eastwood also has videos on car painting. Either on their site you u-toob.
Dang it adidas, ignorance is bliss. You're just creating more work for me! :D
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 11, 2013, 03:40:01 PM
Dang it adidas, ignorance is bliss. You're just creating more work for me! :D
I am creating LESS work for you. Less work in that you won't have to sand it all off and start over because of a soap film that lets the paint slide off. :icon_lol:
Is it time for another cat? Should I wait until tomorrow to add a cat to this thread?
True. Now if only chemical cleaners were as cheap as dish soap. Checked out my local NAPA and they only sell jugs of it for $75. Too rich for my blood. I saw the PRE came in smaller bottles for around $20, so I'll probably order that. One bottle should be enough, right? [Nervous chuckle]... Right?!
My bar end mirrors came in today and I'm really happy with them. Short 4" stems and ball sockets for full range of motion. The stock mirrors were just a pain in the rear to adjust on top of lacking any sort of pizzazz. The new mirrors compliment the low profile of the clip-ons too.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-11214452_zpsdca213b0.jpg)
And due to Mustang's comments, I of course had to order a set of pegs (front and rears). Price was too good to pass up- $20 for 4 bare aluminum pegs (didn't want anodized as it tends to scuff and wear off). Should match with the frame color nicely.
With any luck, I'll be painting this weekend... Unless I have to wait on the PRE to be shipped. Ugh...
PRE is very good. You can get small bottles or a spray can. That's all you'll need. That and a few tac cloths.
agreed, you only want to do the job once :cool:
Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on February 11, 2013, 10:43:20 PM
agreed, you only want to do the job once :cool:
At this point, I don't even want to do it once, lol.
I ordered the PRE, but unfortunately Eastwood doesn't offer express shipping- only ground.
It is not Eastwood - it is the GOVERNMENT. They are getting so pissy about how you can ship the really good flammable chemicals --- ground only.
Quote from: adidasguy on February 11, 2013, 11:58:29 PM
It is not Eastwood - it is the GOVERNMENT. They are getting so pissy about how you can ship the really good flammable chemicals --- ground only.
yup. like shipping firearms via fedex. ( air only) hazmats ground only. etc. rules and regs. :technical:
Oh, and here I thought it was the whole universe that was against me finishing this project in a timely manner. What a relief that it's just the US government that plots against me... :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 12, 2013, 09:44:54 AM
Oh, and here I thought it was the whole universe that was against me finishing this project in a timely manner. What a relief that it's just the US government that plots against me... :icon_rolleyes:
They plot against us all, no need to feel singled out haha.
You're gonna love those pegs! Mine just came in yesterday and sadly I couldn't get to my vice to make the needed modifications :( tomorrow that'll get done, and I'll throw up some pictures for ya
How much were your guys pegs? I really want to get rid of these nasty rubber blocks haha, plus mine are breaking currently.
Mine were about 9 bucks a pair with free shipping. Linky:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110890958040?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Will they work for the passenger pegs too? And how much fabricating is involved? They're pretty sweet looking, and free shipping?? Why not is my opinion :D
I got these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-TL1000R-S-1997-2002-Black-Rear-Foot-Pegs-Set-Left-Right-Footrests-/150995036310?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ATL&hash=item2328016896&vxp=mtr
25 bucks. It's in the wiki, they outline everything!
Quote from: jacob92icu on February 12, 2013, 07:52:40 PM
Will they work for the passenger pegs too? And how much fabricating is involved? They're pretty sweet looking, and free shipping?? Why not is my opinion :D
They do work as passenger pegs as well with some tweaking. Not much fabricating, just a little grinding involved for the rider's pegs and a bit of drilling for the passenger pegs. Nothing complicated- probably about 30 mins worth of work. Either set Mustang or I linked to would need to be modified the same way and it's all outlined, step by step in the wiki:
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Pegs
Ya, I would rather have the gsxr1000 pegs cause they would be over all way cheaper for a passenger and rider pegs together, but there is no wiki for that. I'm assuming its pretty much the same with the passenger pegs, just drill a hole and insert kotter pin?
The wiki calls for GSXR600, 750 or TL1000 rear footpegs. The listing Mustang linked to are listed as TL1000 rear pegs while the listing I linked to are listed as GSXR600 and 750 rear pegs. So they both should qualify for the wiki modification process- at least in theory. They may be slightly different dimensions in reality.
I'll let you know for sure as soon as I get them (will be a few weeks most likely due to slow international shipping).
Lol nice, looking forward to it.
Hey Mustang, just found a belly pan on ebay for $125:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GS500E-GS500-GS-500-LOWER-FAIRING-COWL-COWLING-FAIRING-/321065129727?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0f916ff&vxp=mtr
Doesn't look like it's the OEM part, but slick nonetheless.
I saw that one. It looks nice. I do not recognize who made it. Close, but not 100% OEM. It might be a rather rare.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 12, 2013, 11:32:01 PM
Hey Mustang, just found a belly pan on ebay for $125:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GS500E-GS500-GS-500-LOWER-FAIRING-COWL-COWLING-FAIRING-/321065129727?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0f916ff&vxp=mtr
Doesn't look like it's the OEM part, but slick nonetheless.
I hope it's still there. I just made a deal on a new style gas tank and seat for my '93. Cafe project here I come, with a gas tank that's bigger and doesn't have dents and holes in it!
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 12, 2013, 10:31:43 PM
The wiki calls for GSXR600, 750 or TL1000 rear footpegs. The listing Mustang linked to are listed as TL1000 rear pegs while the listing I linked to are listed as GSXR600 and 750 rear pegs. So they both should qualify for the wiki modification process- at least in theory. They may be slightly different dimensions in reality.
I'll let you know for sure as soon as I get them (will be a few weeks most likely due to slow international shipping).
The Chinese New Year is just finishing up... all exports are virtually stopped for 2 weeks during that time.
- Bboy
Yep. My wife is from Singapore, so I am all too aware of Chinese New Year, lol. Sure is inconvenient for the rest of us though! :icon_mrgreen:
Well, she's all stripped down. Tank has been stripped- just needs final touch up sanding. I've got a few final details to work on before the weekend (PRE should arrive on Sat). I've got President's Day off, so maybe Monday I can start painting...
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-13194513_zps365a664b.jpg)
IAmSpartacus, I hate to be this guy, but, could you please take a better picture of those sweet clipons you put on your bike or at least tell me what kind they are, and if they have raisers on the clipons. I've been looking at the woodraft 3-piece clipons, but before I dump 150 dollers into something i want to be absolutely sure I'll be happy with what i get. I ride a 93' gs500. Your bike looks awsome and thanks for reading :)
Those are the original '89 clip-ons that came stock on the bike for that year.
Here is a thread which includes all the information and pics regarding clip-ons that came stock on GS500s in the U.S. and overseas.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59176.msg676404#msg676404
- Bboy
wow, ok I see that now. (adidasguy) had a huge writeup about it right under the picture. I guess my question now would be, is it possible to snag any of the 89 top plates anymore?
If I'm taking parts down to the metal, after all prep is done, I wipe it down with Ospho, let it dry, spray etching primer, lay down 2K primer, then BC/CC
If painting something already painted, after all prep is done, scuff everything with 320-400,if color changing I lay primer, if not color changing I lay down BC/CC.
There us a member selling a few clip ons in the for sale section of this forum. Last i checked he still had a couple left.
*Edit* Heres the link to the thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=63041.0
Happy fishing! :thumb:
Quote from: metalreeper on February 14, 2013, 08:57:50 AM
wow, ok I see that now. (adidasguy) had a huge writeup about it right under the picture. I guess my question now would be, is it possible to snag any of the 89 top plates anymore?
Yeah, and they'll cost around $150 for a decent set with top plate, clips, and bars. Another member is who has more direct access to the clip-ons from later years is selling some in the for sale section as jacob mentioned... it'll just depend on shipping as it'll be overseas cost... I'm sure adidasguy has a set of '89s or euro type 2s you can pick-up, but don't quote me on the price as it depends on condition among other things.
... Oh yeah, and pertaining to the thread... Um, uh... good luck with the painting! All that work by hand is tedious, but the pride that follows adds some balance to the hours spent.
- Bboy
metalreaper- Thanks, hopefully it'll look even better when painted ;) I did get lucky and got an '89 with the OEM clip-ons.
weedahoe- I'm using PRE rather than metal etching chemicals simply because of price and availability. Thanks for the input- hopefully I'll have some progress to report this weekend.
Well, was hoping to get the bondo laid tonight on the tank, but I opened the sealed can only to find it was dried out. Like I said, the universe is against me, lol. I'll take it back and get a new can tomorrow.
I also needed to order a new air filter and gave in and bought a replacement rear center fairing cover as mine was missing several chunks. I was hoping to be able to salvage it, but decided it was more hassle than it was worth. I shuddered at the thought of paying 25 freakin' dollars on ebay for a few inches of plastic though. >:(
I'm sure someday I'll get the K&N filter, I just don't want to have to mess with re-jetting right now- this project is taking too much time to get on the road as is.
Finished up the "uber fenderectomy" this afternoon. You can see the casing of my flush mount LED turn signal here too. It'll be painted along with the fairing.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-16131601_zps3a23da15.jpg)
Sanded some more today (fine sanding), started constructing my paint booth and added a little flair to my stock tail fairings...
Decided to add some intakes/vents to flow with those on the belly pan and to give a nod to the F model. I ordered some aluminum mesh for the belly pan inlets, so I'll use the leftovers for these cutouts. I've placed some cloth behind one shot here for a simulated effect just to give you an idea what it'll look like.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-17154241.jpg)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-17171031.jpg)
IDK what grit you finished with but follow up with no less than 400 and then use your 2K primer. If youre not using a high build primer then you you need to sand with 600-800 grit or else you will see the scratches in the finsh
Good to know. I figured the primer and multiple layers of paint would be more forgiving than that. I was planning on using 320 or 400 and then using 600 between coats. Welp, back to sanding I go...
Overview of my prep:
1. Sand down using 80, then wet sand with 150 and 320 (now will definitely end with 400)
2. Primer, 2 coats
3. Wet sand with 600
4. Color coat (~4-5 coats)
5. Wet sand with 600
6. Rubbing compound
7. Polishing compound
8. Wet sand lightly with 600 to scuff paint for clear coat
9. 2KMax clear coat
Well, another 10 hour day in the garage (I had President's Day off). I got my bondo on my tank finished and everything sanded up to 400 grit, ready to be tack clothed and PRE'd and then shot with primer. Also finished my paint booth, so tomorrow after work, hopefully I'll get to start the fun stuff. If I never see another piece of sandpaper it'll be too soon. Sorry, no pics yet.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on February 18, 2013, 08:31:30 PM
If I never see another piece of sandpaper it'll be too soon.
Hahaha your telling me... Many, many, many projects...
another tip and hopefully not too late,
if you are spraying base as a solid color, you can wet sand that. If your base is metallic, you cannot wetsand it and clear over it. For metallic you can wetsand, respray and then clear it
If you have a FB, see this link for some candies and metallics I sprayed on some test pieces a few weeks back. They do not have clear on them. Im spraying Kandy Copper, Kandy Apple Green, Kandy Grape and a green/blue/purple Chameleon next
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.417983524953616.98058.100002259154742&type=1
Dang weedahoe, I didn't realize being a moderator came with god-like powers. I had just decided yesterday to change my wheel color from red to a burnt orange (Rustoleum Sienna Mist) which just so happens to be a metallic paint. I wasn't aware, or at least hadn't yet researched, the difference in prep for clear coat for metallic paints as I had just made the last minute decision- thanks for the heads up.
Just to clarify, you're saying on metallic paint I should color sand, rub out and polish, then scuff, lay down one final light coat of color, let cure, THEN apply clear coat? If so, is the rub out and polish superfluous as it will be covered by another layer of paint?
At least Mr.7 will be happy with my color choice :D
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=21278.0
You have it correct.
Solid base colors like solid red, black, blue, ect can be wet sanded and then clear coated. Then after curing, the clear can be wet sanded and buffed to gloss.
You can't wet and metallic and then clear it because sanding the metallic ruins and distorts the "metallic". Thus why you have to wet sand out any issues, lay another coat or "dust" it, then clear, wet sand, buff and polish
Great. One more silly question. On the clear coat, I'm assuming that is just one coat, or can you build up a couple layers like you do the base coats?
On a paint you want to last, you normally dust the first coat of base, then two medium wet coats of base with proper flash times between coats.
Same for clear but dust the first coat and then 3 full wet coats (not dripping and running) your final coat you would set sand with 400, then buff and polish. I use a Griot 3" buffer on my small parts. They run out about $100+
You can buff my hand, it's just a lot more exercise and takes more time obviously
Well I'm in the middle of painting. Laid down the primer, but screwed the pooch on my fender, so I'm gonna have to sand it and respray it.
Got my pegs installed in the meantime. They went in fine, just had to shave them down a bit, similar to the wiki pegs. I also rounded them off so that they would fold if needed. Did rider and passenger pegs pretty much the same, so they both fold. As a bonus, these pegs came with a retention spring and ball bearing, so they click into place in the up position- just took a little finessing to get them to work right on the GS frame.
Old and New Comparison:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-21215911.jpg)
Cut Line:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-21220317.jpg)
Final Shape:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-21224154.jpg)
Installed and Fully Articulating:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-21214716.jpg)
How does it feel with a boot on? And what did you use to cut them down to size?
My bike is torn apart sitting on the center stand a couple paint cans- so I haven't sat on it yet to get a feel for the new pegs.
As for the tools used, I started out using a dremel with a tungsten cutting bit, but ended up simply using a belt sander with 60 grit as a bench grinder, lol. The aluminum is pretty soft, so the belt sander did the trick in just a few minutes. Whole project took a few hours for all 4 pegs. If I did it all again, it would probably take 30-45 minutes.
Nice. I got some coming in the mail that I'm sure will be whipped to size in my shop when I get a chance. Only problem is I have heard that some people change back to the ugly stock ones because it is too small for their boot and they cant even feel the pegs. :dunno_white:
They are certainly small- but then again, that's kinda the point. I sat on it (carefully) today- they don't feel too small to notice, though they are considerably shorter, so with a wide boot you might feel the edge of your shoe hang off a bit. It does feel like the foot brake needs to be lowered a bit due to the height difference- but there does not appear to be any kind of adjustments- am I missing something?
If I am not mistaken you just loosen the pedal off and take it fully off and adjust it a couple notches. This is another downfall of those pegs. People find it very difficult to find a good position hahaha.
The brake pedal appears to be welded into place... :confused:
Here's a few photos for hope and motivation :woohoo: Just base coat on right now- clear will be coming in a few days after curing. Body color is Rustoleum Charcoal Gray, wheels are Rustoleum Sienna Mist.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-24205920.png)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-24220433.jpg)
Oh thats right, I believe the brake pedal needs to be bent and its about the only way to adjust it. Someone on this forum did a thread where he put GSXR pegs on and had to bend the brake pedal.
And looking good! I like the color scheme, you gunna have any suzuki decals or anything? I really like the hole you put for the "vent" I was thinking of doing something very similar. And whattttt no belly pan!?! Haha just messing with you.
Bent?! Holy cow- that's a chore and one that is a bit too permanent for my liking.
I decided against putting any decals on the bike in favor of a really clean look. I will be adding a carbon fiber looking Suzuki "S" 3D dome sticker to each side of the tank though (only 2" tall). Just so the tank doesn't look bare, lol.
Yeah, the vents turned out well- they should line up with the vents on the side of the belly pan if I did it right. After painting is done I'll put the metal grille/mesh in. Sorry I didn't include the belly pan in the pic- those pesky high dollar jack stands were in the way :D
Brake pedal is on a splined shaft, just as the shifter is. You can move it one notch. Adjusting at the MS is easier and more precise.
There are adjustments you can do on the master cylinder. There are 2 nuts on that threaded rod. Loosen them. Adjust pedal to where you want it then tighten them up.
When I went down and looked at my bikes brake pedal I failed to see any adjustment notches but I could be wrong. Haha I was looking at them jacks you got, must have costed you a fortune!
Here is a brake set removed (and pulled from the garbage bin for obvious reasons).
#1 is the main adjustment. You do need to remove the pin from the crank so you can easily adjust it. Move/screw the end in and the pedal is lower. Out and it goes up.
#2 is a MAJOR adjustment: the splined shaft. You should not have to adjust it here unless you did something really radical.
[attachment deleted by admin]
Thanks for the explanation! :bowdown:
Well, I have my wheels, front fender and belly pan clear coated. Friday I'll clear the tank and tail, Sat will be spent sanding/buffing the parts that have cured and putting my new tires on, then Sunday I'll finish up the rest and put the bike back together. My goal is to be riding on Monday- finally.
Tonight I also brought the chain guard back to life via Penetrol as it was dull and faded. No pictures of painted parts, but I do have one of my new turn signals.
Stock:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-13211334.jpg)
LEDs:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-02-27193937.jpg)
Quick question: Should the horn sound as long as the ignition is on, or only when the engine is running? If the former, I think mine is dead and if that is the case, does anyone have any opinions on good horns? I was looking at the Fiamm Freeway Blaster (130dB!) as a possible replacement.
Sorry to threadjack, but back to the rear brake thing. On the master cylinder, is it possible to adjust how soon the brake starts to grab? My pedal will go like 7/8s of the way down before anything happens, and then that last 1/8th of travel goes from nothing to lock up
I'm just spit-balling here, but my guess would be to check and adjust the nut that is just to the left of adidasguy's #1 adjustment point as that is where the "travel" of the cylinder is. But shoot, what do I know :embarassed:
Ok, we're getting close...
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/Front3.jpg)
damn man, me likey. gonna paint the master cylinder? or leave as is?
Alright, it's not 100% finished (still some detail work to do), but she's road worthy. Took her out for an hour today and I'm definitely in love :icon_mrgreen:
No plans on painting the cylinder, calipers or anything else right now, but tomorrow- who knows!
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/89GS500E2.jpg)
Boy does that ever look nice. :)
That turned out great! Is it still primed, or did you paint it gray?
Gee, thanks for knockin' my paint job- that's charcoal gray :D
Here's a few more shots (I'll update the original post as well):
Right Side:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04072826.jpg)
Tail Shot:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04073525.jpg)
Uber Fenderectomy and Smoked Blinkers:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04073112.jpg)
Belly Pan (Notice the larger main vents now):
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04072938.jpg)
Now that I've ridden the bike, I realized that my shiny new LED turn signals don't blink. It seems I've fallen prey to the infamous "all blinkers on" phenomena. I have searched (this forum and google) for some common English solutions, but haven't found any. Could someone please instruct me in the ways of LEDs?
Also, my horn does not sound. Brand new horn, so wiring is definitely the culprit. Any suggestions? I've checked the wiring- nothing appears to be wrong.
Didn't mean to knock the paint! Second pic shows some shine, just the first one made it look flat gray from the lighting
Yeah- I still have some buffing to do ;)
Now what are you gonna do for exhaust?
Stock for now. After I get some riding under my belt and am looking for a bit more umph, I'll probably upgrade intake, exhaust and sprockets.
Looking awesome! Fantastic Job. Hope you don't experience your first crash on that though :S
Horn should work when the key is turned.
Doesnt need to be running.
and heres something to consider to have some fun with :thumb:
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/4574648610245560976?q=bad%20boy%20air%20horn&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.43148975,d.dmg&biw=1600&bih=772&sa=X&ei=PQ41UYiRFufu0gHOnYHYDw&ved=0CIwBEPMCMAk4Cg
put one of those babies on my bike.
nice and Loud!!!! :icon_twisted:
I also bought the wiring kit with it just because I didnt feel like monkeying with wire. ($20 from amazon)
Horn and kit come with the relay.
Was a simple plug and TOOT! :icon_twisted:
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on March 04, 2013, 01:40:35 PM
Stock for now. After I get some riding under my belt and am looking for a bit more umph, I'll probably upgrade intake, exhaust and sprockets.
Gotcha :thumb:
The exhaust was the first thing I did. Sliced a hole in the pipe after a week for some sound, and a week later had a cheap universal muff on it. Can't stand being on something quiet, these bikes sound like sewing machines stock!
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on March 04, 2013, 06:21:43 PM
These bikes sound like sewing machines stock!
Haha- I was just telling my wife that today. In her mind, that's a feature, not a weakness, lol.
Interesting not on horns we discovered this weekend in the Bike Cave.
Old bikes have a better horn than new bikes! Like twice the sound and bigger in diameter!
I got a dual PIAA that doesn't need a relay because it isn't an air horn. Air horns need a relay due to the current draw. Also have an air horn. Will do a video on installing horns.
Quote from: adidasguy on March 04, 2013, 07:35:14 PM
Interesting not on horns we discovered this weekend in the Bike Cave.
Old bikes have a better horn than new bikes! Like twice the sound and bigger in diameter!
I got a dual PIAA that doesn't need a relay because it isn't an air horn. Air horns need a relay due to the current draw. Also have an air horn. Will do a video on installing horns.
coolness. looking forward to it. was considering putting an airhorn on the scooter. lol. ( its plenty strong enough to carry me and the weight of horn/battery and wiring.
I installed the Fiamm "Highway Blaster" horn. It shouldn't need a relay and it wired right in to the stock clips. Must be a faulty wire, connection or ground SOMEWHERE, but locating it is beyond my electrical abilities so far, lol.
For my "all on" blinker problem, I think I found a solution. I ordered an electronic relay which handles any combination of LED and incandescent bulbs- so I'm hoping it'll work with my LED signals and stock indicator light. The relay is the ELFR-1 from CustomLED.
http://www.customled.com/products/flasher_relay/flasher_relay.htm
I'll let you know how it turns out.
We sure they don't need a relay? I've been told most aftermarket horns (air or not) need them because of the increased power draw over stock. They'll work, but they might burn out the horn switch eventually due to the increased power draw. Or maybe I just have no idea what the heck I'm talking about :dunno_black:
I picked up the Hella Dual horn kit, which came with a relay. I didn't use it as I have a fuse block installed on the GS which is where it was getting its power from.
The Fiamm horns draw around 5amps if I'm not mistaken. According to the Wiki, the GS's system has at least 5.5 amps available that isn't used on its 20 amp fuse (assuming ALL other electrical systems are being used and drawing their maximum power), so I don't see a problem there.
But the issue isn't amperage- the stock horn didn't work either (which is why I replaced it in the first place). So it has to be a wiring issue somewhere between the switch, battery and horn. Though now that I think about it, installing a relay might bypass the faulty wiring that's causing me issues...
Well, I know I told you that I was going to wait to upgrade the intake and exhaust, but a Yoshi R-77 popped up on craigslist (from a GSX-R 1000) for $80. It's a carbon fiber exhaust- MSRP is $425. Looks awesome but can it be made to fit my GS (and would it be beneficial)? I couldn't pass it up for that price, but I'm hoping I can actually use it, lol.
http://www.yoshimura-rd.com/t-replacement_muffler_R77.aspx
$80 bucks for a yoshimura!? Whats wrong with it?? :icon_mrgreen:
It has a dent and some scrapes, but I should be able to make it look nearly new again. PO took it to a local muffler shop and had them remove it and install straight pipes for more noise, so the Yoshi went up for sale. :woohoo:
In other news, my electronic flasher came in and was installed. It is a step in the right direction as the blinkers flash now- just all at the same time. So the next step is diodes leading up to the indicator lamp in the gauge cluster, which should remedy the problem. Oddly, my horn randomly started working as well- so I have no idea what was going on.
I still plan to run a relay to the horn just for good measure though. Can anyone point me to a relay and or website that they would recommend?
LED blinkers are all working properly now- as is the horn. Only electrical issue left to resolve is the hand brake- it doesn't initiate the brake light. Foot brake does however, so for now I just make sure I use it to alert people behind me (I also have a Back Off brake light module installed for extra safety).
Will probably install the Yoshi R-77 and K&N lunchbox within the next few weeks along with new jets. Starting out with 40/147.5 jets and then test from there.
Anyone who has installed a slip-on, what exactly needs to be done to the GS to accommodate them? I know I will need a flange and some welding done. Since I don't weld, should I just take the whole thing to a muffler shop or are there some things I can do in my garage to minimize expenses?
Ok, got my Yoshimura R-77 installed. As you can see, it isn't in like new condition, but it is functional and it was dirt cheap. I don't weld, so I took it to a local muffler shop where they charged me $60 to make a midpipe/flange and weld it all up. I plan on grinding the welds down a bit and spraying high heat black on the new section to make it match.
The Yoshi had obviously been laid down- it had some scrapes and a dent in the front dome of the can as well as the front rivet brace isn't straight. I filled in the dent with JB Weld putty and sanded it smooth and painted the steel dome high heat black to cover it up and match it to the pipe. I also wet sanded the carbon fiber and removed most of the blemishes. I might be able to straighten out the brace- or I might just live with it. I can't complain- $80 for a carbon fiber Yoshi.
What matters most is the sound- which is a veddy nice. :thumb: I was smiling the whole way back from the shop- it sounds like a totally different bike now.
Before:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-04072826.jpg)
After:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-14103836.jpg)
At least its not the stock exhaust! Haha. Looks good! :thumb:
Here's some (poor) audio to give you an idea of her new sound...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AK6B7LQj-ak
K&N lunchbox installed and got her rejetted today. 40/147.5 jets, 2 washers and 3 turns and she rides great. Should have had my new grips installed too, but they sent me the wrong color, so I'll have to wait for USPS again. But hey, if anyone wants a pair of Pro Grip 724's (black with green accents) let me know!
Went out for a ride on the North edge of town to test her growl out :D
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/2013-03-16182103.jpg)
Installed a Motion Pro SV650 throttle sleeve today. Quick question: Are these models natively 1/5 turn or are they 1/4 turn but are compatible with the SV650 1/5 adapters? I found a lot of conflicting and confusing info about this here and other sites.
I would love to do the Yamaha 1/6 throttle sleeve, but it seems as if that only works on the newer F models...
Nice build man. Thanks for documenting.
Bike is truly amazing. Thanks for sharing. :o
Thanks guys. I hope it's helpful.