My tank's dented by the PO dropping it.
I was wonder if this is fixable or if i'm destined to have a dented tank until i replace it.
has anyone else gone to a body shop for it?
were they able to match up the paint or did you just get a new paint job?
Yes a body shop can fix and match paint. Dent removers can remove the dent. Bodyshops usually put bog/filler in but ask first.
I pulled my own dents then worked out the remaining waves in the sheetmetal with bondo. I wasn't concerned with paint as I was repainting the whole bike a different color, but if bondo is your only option, you can get small color matched spray cans from Napa and paint shops. If you can pull the dent out without the need of bondo, then no paint will be necessary.
Look at my thread in the projects section for pics and ideas for paintless dent removal. Mine was basketball sized, so I'm sure yours will be cake comparatively.
Thanks guys.
I think i'm going to have it done professionally. I'm not really adept at dealing with dents and paint without messing it up royally.
on the sides of the gas tank, it says SUZUKI and there is this woosh like sticker? that's sort of matt finish under the word SUZUKI like the logo on this page.
are those easy to replace? Does the tank have some sort of groove that the sticker fits into?
I think i'm going to get the tank, front fender (which was hand painted by the OP), and the side fairings re painted as well.
still wondering if i want the SUZUKI and the woosh on it.
The original stickers would have been put on then clear coated a few times. You can get some pretty good aftermarket stickers that you can put on yourself. Adidasguy is the person to speak to about the stickers and I am sure he will be along shortly :icon_rolleyes:
Keep in mind a professional paint job on your bike will run you several hundred, if not thousands, of dollars- which is why most people do it themselves on a lower end bike like the GS.
The tank doesn't have decal grooves- they just sit on top of the paint and then are clear coated.
Could you post a pic of your dented tank? At least then we could tell you how difficult the work would be...
I'm running into a similar situation. I just posted a new topic "Well Heck" before I noticed this was out here.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on March 12, 2013, 07:35:49 AM
Keep in mind a professional paint job on your bike will run you several hundred, if not thousands, of dollars- which is why most people do it themselves on a lower end bike like the GS.
The tank doesn't have decal grooves- they just sit on top of the paint and then are clear coated.
Could you post a pic of your dented tank? At least then we could tell you how difficult the work would be...
Whoa! really? thousands?
this is what the damage looks like
http://imgur.com/HmdVxdr
There's a bunch of scrapes on the right side fairings as well. Also on the frame and where the suzuki emblems are but those are not fixable for cheap i'm assuming.
anoopb - That's too deep for filler IMO. It would eventually shrink and crack. A good body/paint guy would pull that out, fill lightly where needed, then finish. I have had two tanks (not GS) prepped and painted and you're looking at at least $400 depending on what type of finish you want. Add the seat panels and fenders and you're aound $6-$700 dollars, maybe more. You could very easily exceed the value of the bike with the cost of painting. Think of it this way: If you intend to keep this bike and you're particular about its looks, have it prepped and painted professionally. Otherwise, you'll never be happy. If you're not concerned about a high quality finish there are lots of posts on how to DIY. I would think about it for a while before I'd do anything.
Quote from: dmoore on March 12, 2013, 10:28:02 AM
anoopb - That's too deep for filler IMO. It would eventually shrink and crack. A good body/paint guy would pull that out, fill lightly where needed, then finish. I have had two tanks (not GS) prepped and painted and you're looking at at least $400 depending on what type of finish you want. Add the seat panels and fenders and you're aound $6-$700 dollars, maybe more. Think of it this way: If you intend to keep this bike and you're particular about its looks, have it prepped and painted professionally. Otherwise, you'll never be happy. If you're not concerned about a high quality finish there are lots of posts on how to DIY.
that ding on the K is the worst! Almost rusting.
Thanks! I didn't think it would be that much. I do like the bike and I would like to restore it but that's pretty steep.
i'll go ask around.
I'm not looking for anything amazing. Just want to get rid of the hideousness that was brought on by the PO.
I even have a sun faded outline of a sticker on the tank that says "Who's your kitty?".
Yes, it used to belong to a girl who then sold it to a mexican guy who then sold it to me.
That dent could be pulled pretty easily using the hot glue trick. Here's some pics of my bike to give you an idea:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg.html)
As far as paint, IF it is required, it can be done with near professional results if you're willing to do the work. Otherwise, a quick and easy spray can job will get you by and will be decent enough. Some touch ups wouldn't be very difficult. Fixing your scraped up decal- well that would require stripping the tank down completely (aircraft remover) then priming it and painting it, laying down new decals, then clear coating it (use 2K Max clear coat). I repainted my whole bike with no previous experience using rattle cans and the 2K Max clear coat and it turned out pretty darn good. Just took hours upon hours of sanding ;)
My project thread for more details:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=62863.0
Another option would be to search ebay and the classifieds for a used tank with perfect stock black paint. May run you a couple hundred, but then you could sell your tank and recoup some of that cost.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on March 12, 2013, 10:38:00 AM
That dent could be pulled pretty easily using the hot glue trick. Here's some pics of my bike to give you an idea:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg.html)
As far as paint, IF it is required, it can be done with near professional results if you're willing to do the work. Otherwise, a quick and easy spray can job will get you by and will be decent enough. Some touch ups wouldn't be very difficult. Fixing your scraped up decal- well that would require stripping the tank down completely (aircraft remover) then priming it and painting it, laying down new decals, then clear coating it (use 2K Max clear coat). I repainted my whole bike with no previous experience using rattle cans and the 2K Max clear coat and it turned out pretty darn good. Just took hours upon hours of sanding ;)
My project thread for more details:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=62863.0
quite nicely done. I wonder if that will work on mine.
How do you determine where to put the glue and where to pull the dent from? or how long the piece of wood has to be.
Maybe i'll give it a shot. If i get the big dent out, i'll be somewhat happier. That ding on the decal is definitely hideous and i might deal with that separately.
I don't really have a workshop or anything. Just a garage space. I'm not sure how the other owners would feel about me painting my bike there.
I still can't believe it can cost that much to paint a few parts. As far as i know, it's six plastic pieces and a gas tank.
Thanks!
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on March 12, 2013, 10:38:00 AM
That dent could be pulled pretty easily using the hot glue trick. Here's some pics of my bike to give you an idea:
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-01-24195323_zpseb993d98.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06211731_zps0bc7faa2.jpg.html) (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/SpartacusMagnus/89%20GS500E/th_2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg) (http://s168.beta.photobucket.com/user/SpartacusMagnus/media/89%20GS500E/2013-02-06220846_zps2bba7c70.jpg.html)
As far as paint, IF it is required, it can be done with near professional results if you're willing to do the work. Otherwise, a quick and easy spray can job will get you by and will be decent enough. Some touch ups wouldn't be very difficult. Fixing your scraped up decal- well that would require stripping the tank down completely (aircraft remover) then priming it and painting it, laying down new decals, then clear coating it (use 2K Max clear coat). I repainted my whole bike with no previous experience using rattle cans and the 2K Max clear coat and it turned out pretty darn good. Just took hours upon hours of sanding ;)
My project thread for more details:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=62863.0
I'm interested in trying this with my dent.
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae278/Zethioth/DSCI0047_zpse5e2a9e4.jpg)
Might be a little more awkward as the dent is on the side and not on the top. What is it you have glued to the tank? All I see is a washer. Is it an upside down bolt?
anoopb- The paint isn't the expensive part, it's the labor you pay for. And when it takes 10-30 hours of prep work and finish work to get those professional results, you can see where the cost starts to add up just with the hourly rate ($80+ an hour). I probably spent well over 30 hours prepping, painting and finishing my bike's body panels (tank, tail plastics, fender and belly pan). A pro would be able to do it faster, but it's still a time sink.
As for determining the placement of the glue point, simply find the lowest spot in the dent. If it is a large dent (large than your fist) you will most likely need to pull up from several glue points. The length of the board doesn't matter- it just needs to be longer than the width of the dent and rest on two solid anchor points (you don't want to create two more dents). With my tank, I used the edge of the tank and the gas cap as my anchor points.
Zethioth- Yep, just a large carriage bolt with a washer for added surface area plastered to the dent with a lot of hot glue. Doesn't matter that your dent is on the side as the pressure from the nut will hold your anchor boards/points in place. Your dent looks like it should pop out really clean as there aren't any creases in the dent. Just be careful when removing the hot glue so as not to blemish your paint.
The process is pretty straight forward- just crank on the nut tightening it down- which will actually move the bolt UP due to your anchor points. Keep tightening the nut until it either pops or is raised level with the rest of the tank surface. At that point, you can heat up the glue again and pull off the bolt or your can use a razor blade.
Quote from: IAmSpartacus on March 12, 2013, 11:49:31 AM
anoopb- The paint isn't the expensive part, it's the labor you pay for. And when it takes 10-30 hours of prep work and finish work to get those professional results, you can see where the cost starts to add up just with the hourly rate ($80+ an hour). I probably spent well over 30 hours prepping, painting and finishing my bike's body panels (tank, tail plastics, fender and belly pan). A pro would be able to do it faster, but it's still a time sink.
As for determining the placement of the glue point, simply find the lowest spot in the dent. If it is a large dent (large than your fist) you will most likely need to pull up from several glue points. The length of the board doesn't matter- it just needs to be longer than the width of the dent and rest on two solid anchor points (you don't want to create two more dents). With my tank, I used the edge of the tank and the gas cap as my anchor points.
Zethioth- Yep, just a large carriage bolt with a washer for added surface area plastered to the dent with a lot of hot glue. Doesn't matter that your dent is on the side as the pressure from the nut will hold your anchor boards/points in place. Your dent looks like it should pop out really clean as there aren't any creases in the dent. Just be careful when removing the hot glue so as not to blemish your paint.
The process is pretty straight forward- just crank on the nut tightening it down- which will actually move the bolt UP due to your anchor points. Keep tightening the nut until it either pops or is raised level with the rest of the tank surface. At that point, you can heat up the glue again and pull off the bolt or your can use a razor blade.
I'll give it a shot. i'm fairly certain i'm going to be introducing two more dents. :)
but it's worth a try. Will a blow dryer be enough to head up the glue? I'm nervous about taking a razor blade to it. Is the eventuality of the glue that i will end up with a patch that i have to paint? or can this dent be pulled without repainting?
thanks for all the information.
The hot glue will not pull up your paint. This method is completely paintless. Blow dryer will probably soften the glue up enough to peel off- if not you can hit it with a heat gun. If that isn't an option, just take a razor blade or a small flat head screw driver and get under one edge. At that point it will just peel off. The factory clear coat won't be harmed at all.
As long as your anchor points have a decent surface area to spread the load, you won't create two more dents. My dent required 5 different glue points using 3-4 sticks of hot glue (large glue gun, not the small arts and crafts ones). I used a razor to pry up all the hot glue and caused no harm to the paint. Of course, I ended up repainting it anyway and my dent was so big that some bondo was required to even out the waves in the sheetmetal, so I wasn't as timid or worried about marring the factory finish.
Here's another option depending on where you live. In Ohio we have many vocational schools, now called career centers, most of which have autobody repair programs. The students in the programs all have to have projects that they get graded on and often welcome projects from the public. The work is usually done for material expenses only. These kids take great pride in these projects and get valuable experience out of it. You might look into it.
anoopb - I see you live in Chicago. Here's a list of vocational schools in the Cook County area with phone numbers. You might be able to find a student needing a project.
North Suburban Educ Reg for Voc, 1131 S Dee Rd, Park Ridge, 847-692-8023
Northwest Suburban Ed to Careers, 2121 S Goebbert Rd, Arlington Heights, 847-718-6800
Morton Regional Del Sys, 1801 S 55th Ave A219, Cicero, 708-863-2200
Des Plaines Valley EFE, 2000 5th Ave M100, River Grove, 708-779-4448
Moraine Area Career System, 4625 W 107th St, Oak Lawn, 708-422-6230
Career Prep Net @ Prairie State, 202 S Halsted St, Chicago Heights, 708-709-7903
Career Development System, 16333 Kilbourne Ave, Oak Forest, 708-225-6023
dmoore
thanks bud! i'll give them a call. I also have a paintless dent removal place in my hood that i'm going to go check out. figure that would be the cheapest option next to doing it myself.
thanks again!