My father, while trying to take the tail plastics off in an attempt to help me, broke one of the mounts off the inside of the right tail plastic. It broke flush against the flat side of the plastic.
I was wondering which would provide a stronger bond to put it back on. A glue such as JB Weld, or plastic welding? Seeing as though it requires quite a bit of force to take the plastics on and off I want to make sure it doesn't come off again.
I thought about gluing it first, then taking a soldering iron and plastic welding, but I believe if I do that the plastic will mix with the glue causing a bad weld.
Thoughts? Weedahoe?
I think you would be better off with plastic welding. I've never used jb weld for anything other than metal my self, so I'm not sure how it would work. I usually use gorilla glue for plastic gluing. It's very strong, but don't know if you would want to use it for this application. Just make sure you scuff the surface before applying anything.
So basically, I have researched 3 options, really wish there was a "This is #1 best way to do it"
1) JB Weld (The all around best, very strong)
2) 2 Part Plastic Epoxy such as Plastic Weld (Designed more so for plastic, flexible, maybe not as strong as JB weld?)
3) Plastic Welding (Requires good skill for clean welds, not sure of strength compared to using a glue)
Opinions?
Quote from: jacob92icu on March 26, 2013, 02:22:56 PM
Just make sure you scuff the surface before applying anything.
Thanks! Forgot about this! How silly of me.
Plastex :thumb:
J B Weld is great universal resin....it's also excellent for making-up spacers,etc.
Ive use 2-part epoxy on my old car when a mirror was ripped off at the car wash. Worked great to put the stud back on could tighten it down very well. Theyre rated by pounds per inch if i remember right.
Ive also done plastic welding when i was workin in a body shop. If you do it right, like in both sides of the break, you shouldnt have an issue. Most good plastic welding kits come with a wire netting you can melt into the plastic in order to add strength. Also helps to if it does break again its held together by the netting. Ive never had an issue with the spoon ended ones making a ripple look, adds strength like when you bend metal.
Either way you go it should work well enough for you depending on how the break is. Good luck.
If it was me, I'd use option 2.
not that i'm a huge fan of the style.. but... BOBBER!! ;)
then if you mess it up and dont like the bobber project... you can put it on craiglist with a scandalous asking price and ridiculous writeup about how it will rule the streets when completed!!... JOKE!!!!!!! :flipoff: ;) :icon_lol:
http://www.urethanesupply.com/PlastiFix/
Cookie
Quote from: Zethioth on March 26, 2013, 02:12:00 PM
My father, while trying to take the tail plastics off in an attempt to help me, broke one of the mounts off the inside of the right tail plastic. It broke flush against the flat side of the plastic.
I was wondering which would provide a stronger bond to put it back on. A glue such as JB Weld, or plastic welding? Seeing as though it requires quite a bit of force to take the plastics on and off I want to make sure it doesn't come off again.
I thought about gluing it first, then taking a soldering iron and plastic welding, but I believe if I do that the plastic will mix with the glue causing a bad weld.
Thoughts? Weedahoe?
Quote from: twocool on March 26, 2013, 06:11:50 PM
http://www.urethanesupply.com/PlastiFix/
Sorry - that is EXACTLY what I was thinking of. That stuff is fantastic.
however, I think they both are the same thing just different brand name.
http://www.plastex.net/Product_Info.php
It is approved by the West Seattle GS500 Club.
(You see, I'm now really old and lost my memory.)
Quote from: twocool on March 26, 2013, 06:11:50 PM
http://www.urethanesupply.com/PlastiFix/
Cookie
Have it, problem is I know it's not going to provide a strong enough bound where I need it.
However, I am going to use it recreate one of the tabs on my headlight. :thumb:
Picked up a 2 part epoxy today, noticed the JB Weld has a much high PSI strength rating. I think I will be using it. Thanks guys.
Any type of glue or epoxy is something that holds to pieces or more together on the surface.
True welding or plastic welding in the case is the melting of the two same materials to form on of the same materials. A good epoxy or glue can and will still break in the same place. A good weld will break somewhere other than the weld
I gotta agree...........epoxy like JB weld is not the best for a slippery plastic" like ABS.
The idea of the urethane supply plastifix, is you use a "solvent" based repair, and fiberglass cloth behind, to bridge the crack and strengthen it .........again, it does not use the typical resin for fiberglass, but rather the solvent impregnated into the special powder, impregnated into the glass cloth. Then you vee out the crack and fill with the solvent and powder....
But he strength comes from the fiberglass bonded to the back surface!
Better yet, is one of the plastic welding processes, where the plastic is melted together, and filled with plastic weld rod.
Cookie
Quote from: weedahoe on March 26, 2013, 08:55:59 PM
Any type of glue or epoxy is something that holds to pieces or more together on the surface.
True welding or plastic welding in the case is the melting of the two same materials to form on of the same materials. A good epoxy or glue can and will still break in the same place. A good weld will break somewhere other than the weld
I use this for practically everything. It is very easy to work with, inexpensive, cures fast, very strong, and you can add layers after it dries.
(http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3237/large/7010583_azp_160012_pri_larg.jpg)
my vote is JB weld with a good roughed up surface, use the lowest number(not lowest grit) sandpaper you can find. Then build up the JBweld a bit, lay a little under it to stick it to the surface, let that cure completely and then lay a second bead that expands outward and up the broken piece for good stability. It might not look pretty when your done but it should hold if done right, be sure to clean up the plastic after sanding it.
I have used the Plastex to rebuild tabs for tail pieces and tail centers. It has survived over a year now, just like it is the original plastic. It comes with a heat softened blob. I used it to mold the tab on a tail center. Then used the mold on one with the corner broken off. Filled it in with Plastex and it is like it was never broken.
I used it to repair the cracks around the bottom of a blender and it has survives over a year and many times in the dish washer. (Plastic blender with big metal bearing holder: the two expand and contract at different rates resulting in the whole bottom having a circular break around it - fixed it!)
Neighbor repaired all his CBR600 fairings with the stuff. Still holding up like they were never cracked.
It is all we use for repairing any plastic in the Bike Cave.