At 15K miles my bike started having trouble and started stalling at idle(tried fiddeling with idle screw with no luck) and now at 16k miles the battery is not holding a charge.
Yesterday, I put the battery on a one amp charger and I took the carbs apart for the first time. Everything looked pretty good.
Very little build up on the metal but I cleaned it with carb cleaner since it was open. The diaphrams looked new :thumb: I replaced the eight screws on the bottom with allen head bolts for easy access.
Today, I am putting it back together.
My carb question is will shimming the needles help even with stock air and exhaust ? and do the washers go an the long tapered side of the c-clip on the needle or where there is less room at the wider end of the needle ?
Also, I have neglected doing a valve check but I have never experienced any new sounds from the engine. Could this be the more likely culprut ?
I will keep posting as I make progress.
Is it possible to remove that California emmisions crap?
John you can get ride of the emissions crap, but you should plug with the holes in the carbs with rubber caps (I got a whole pack of them at Autozone for $2)
John,
Yes, shimming the needles will help even with stock setup. At least, it did on my 93. I suppose it will on your 2002 as well.
The washer goes on the longer tapered side. See my web page for a picture:
http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting
Thanks Mike and Adam :cheers:
Mike, your tutorial was what got me through the process and I am proud to say my GS is running and now wil idle :) If I am ever in you neck of the woods the beers are on me.
I only added one washer because I could not find ones smal enough at Radio Shack, Auto Zone or Home Depot. I ended up using some 4mm washers I found after dremeling half of the outside diameter off to get them to fit in the shaft.
I was not able to adjust the pilot air screws :( I had no trouble turning the screws with the carbs off the bike but I could not get them to turn once I had it all back together :dunno: I don't know maybe I need a special small screwdriver . I cut the end off an old screwdriver but I couldn't get that to work either.
Hi John, I'll be happy to accept those beers :cheers: I am glad it was useful.
As you can see in the last picture, I used a screwdriver drill bit. I could turn it by hand, but you can use a 1/4" open end wrench or socket to turn it if it's too hard. You can also buy a cheap set of S-shaped screwdrivers. I bought mine form K-mart for like $2. I haven't used them though.
Quote from: JohNLA
I was not able to adjust the pilot air screws :( I had no trouble turning the screws with the carbs off the bike but I could not get them to turn once I had it all back together :dunno: I don't know maybe I need a special small screwdriver . I cut the end off an old screwdriver but I couldn't get that to work either.
I don't know how different your carb if from my 89, but I managed to adjust the carb installed with a flat head bit. Had to wear a glove while adjusting as the engine was a little hot.
Cheers,
Ed.
Thanks Ed. I tried using the flat head bit but it wont budge. I will try again to loosen it when the engine is cool.
Today was the first time I refered to my GS as a POS :oops:
My brand new $86 Yuasa battery is dead :x
It died the same way the stock one did while the engine was good and warm. If it was a car I would think altenator but I have no clue where to look on the GS :dunno:
Get a multimeter what a electrion use's to get what voltages go though things, while the bike is off put use the setting on DC on the battery the setting is 20 on the left not right, connect to the batter u should have just over 12 volts, if not the battery is dead start the bike if u can, and then see how much volts ur getting out of the bike it should be over 13 volts if it's over the reg/rect is gone if below then i don't know might be fly wheel. hope that works
Thanks Mayz, I did a search after I posted and that was the course of action I was planning on taking but it is reasuring to hear it from others.
I hope you sort it out soon since its your means of making a living....Doing palomar saturday...interested?
I took it to the shop :oops: Shhhh, don't tell Sinrath.
I didn't have a digital multimeter to test things so I got lazy and took it in.
I will have to get back to you about the Saturday ride.
:nono: :nono: :nono:
A digital multimeter costs like $17.99 at walmart.
Cool.
Srinath.
and a cab ride to get there and back would have cost me $60 but I will look for one next time I'm at Sprawl Mart.
Ok fine... you could have asked me for one... I'd have sent one over via Priority mail. Just kidding.... I would have sent it but its not practical waiting a week to read the voltage.
Cool.
Srinath.
Well, my local mechanic took 2 1/2 days to charge the battery and tell me he can't test the charging system until the carb problem is sorted :x He said it would be another $165 and it would be at least 2 days until they can get to it. Needless, to say I went and picked up my bike and I won't be patronising that shop anymore.
Last night I tore the carbs apart once again. This time I removed the 2 washers and returned it to stock and it is working just like before I started any of this.
I can get it to idle even a low below 1k rpm to set the air pilot screws.
The problem is when I am moving at 30mph or higher and come to a stop. It will 9 times out of 10 conk out. Occasionally, the idle will jump up to 3k but I can usually make it drop back down be putting it in gear.
I am starting to run out of ideas.
Now that you have learnt your lesson "Never take it to a shop... especially if you want it fixed right" OK the alternator can be diagnosed independent of the carbs.
Get a digital multi meter. Or if you want mine... I'll send you tommorow.
Check the voltage at the battery. electrexusa.com has a trouble shooting chart... but it it makes 13.5 volts or so at idle... I'll leave it alone for now.
Idle dies if you shut it after 30mph or hangs when you make a sudden stop. Ok are all the cables free to move about. Does the problem get worse when you turn left or right on centerstand... I mean at idle turn bars left to the lock, and try right. See if it changes.
Also check if the choke is on due to cable slipping out of the place its supposed to sit in. Check if Throttle cable is hanging. Then check if all the hoses are connected to the airbox, the one at the bottom and the top one to the valve cover. Make sure the tank is vented, fuel is flowing and see if its worse in on/res than prime. Then check for vacuum leaks with WD40. Lemme know what all these turn out to be. Then see if we can narrow it further.
Cool.
Srinath.
Since your carbs are clean, the choke is my first suspect. On one of my Canada rides there was a day or two when the bike would die every time I made a full stop. It didn't happen very often - since we were putting on a lot of highway miles - but it frustrated me. I finally noticed that my choke lever was pulled back just a bit, and I turned it all the way off. End of problem.
I asked my brother later, "Does it make sense that having the choke slightly ON would kill the engine at low revs once the engine is warm?" He said something that amounted to "Well, DUH ... of course!" :oops: And then a couple days later it happened again and it took me a while to remember what the solution was. :oops: :oops:
============
Back to YOUR bike.
I wouldn't be surprised if it exhibits the high idle when the engine isn't warmed up all the way. That's what the choke is supposed to do, right? But then if the choke stays on long after the bike is warmed up, it makes sense that it would "conk out" at full stops.
I don't know anything about the 01+ carbs, but in the earlier carbs it can be a little tricky to get the "fuel enricher plungers" snapped back into place correctly. Any idea whether that part of the procedure went OK? (Did you pop them out & clean their "innards" when you opened the carbs?)
Otherwise, I would examine the choke cable - especially the spring, etc. at the "business end" like Srinath mentioned. You might even try lubing it to eliminate any worries about it not being free to move/spring back.
Bike battery is giving 14 to 15 volts when started. I have an analog meter and I am not sure if I am reading it correctly but I haven't had to charge the battery in a couple days. (finger crossed)
All cables are checked and working properly. The idle does not change by moving the handlebars and I have checked the choke cable several times on and of the bike and I can see nothing wrong.
I tried WD40 sprayed around the carb to engine boots and at the air filter with no change in the revs.
I removed the hose that connects to the bottom of the airbox. The one that is capped at the other end. Clymer suggested cleaning it, if I ride in the rain. So I pulled it off and started cleaning it . I got all excited thinking I had just found the problem while cleaning but it turns out the is a little foam filter in there. At first I thought I found a 1 inch plug of dirt.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Update:
Cleaning the airbox drain hose did nothing.
The battery is now dead and on a charger.
Tommorow, I will try and find a digital multimeter and try checking the signal generator and ignitor unit.
BTW, I pulled the plugs and got a nice blue spark and I could feel compression. The engine sounded pretty cool as a single ;)
Some quick things to check:
FIRST
-water level is OK
-battery is fully charged using a known-good charger
THEN
-voltage with the bike off is about the same when you finished charging it, as it is the next morning.
-voltage at 3krpm+ is above 14.1v
-voltage is always below 15v, at any RPM
Some stupid tips:
It's safe to jump-start the bike from a car battery, if the car isn't running.
It's helpful to park up high in the parking ramp at work, so you can bump-start on the way down :)
BTW, unless your bike just won't run before the carb was fixed, there is no reason that the mechanic couldn't check the charging system.
I spent the day playing with the new digital multimeter.
I went down the Clymer sugested checks.
First I tried the -Batery Drain Test
This is the test where you disconect the negative ground cable and then test between the cable and the battery post.
Directions say to switch ammeter from its highest to lowest amperage scale while reading the meter scale. I couldn't get any readings other than OL(overload) with all the five settings available. Also, I have no clue what they mean by switching from lowest to highest is done.
(?)
Second, I did the -Charging System Output Test
At idle and with the bike off, I was getting 12.73 V at the battery posts.
At 5K rpm's with hi-beam on I got 14.65 V at the battery posts.
(PASSED)
Finally, Clymer tells me to check the Regulator/Rectifier by checking the continuity between its different terminals. :dunno: I couldn't figure out how to set the multimeter for this test either :oops:
(?)
you will see a little sign of a speaker, or something like that, and when you touch the probes you will hear a beep for aslong as they touch.
Can you post a picture of your multimeter, or let us know the make & model so someone can find a picture of it online? There is quite a variety in features and controls in the meters that are available out there.
For the purposes of discussion, I'll assume the feature set on my digital meter:
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0624_Multimeter_2.jpg)
Battery Drain Testdefinitely be able to display the amperage that your battery puts out.
Make sure you're measuring DC amps rather than AC amps. (Apparently my meter doesn't even HAVE an AC amperage range. If it did it would look like the Voltage range in the upper right-hand corner - with a '~' next to the A.)
You may also need to double-check your probe placement. The black COM (common or ground) lead should be touching the negative battery terminal, the red lead should be touching the detached cable.
I'm not sure how many amps the manual says you should expect, but most of the meters I have used require that you plug one of the probes into a separate jack on the meter if you expect to measure 10 amps or more. In the above picture it's the UNUSED jack.[/list:u]
Regulator/Rectifier (continuity test)Your meter may or may not have an audible continuity testing feature. (Mine doesn't.) If not, you will need to use the ohmmeter feature, which measures electrical resistance. The ranges will be identified by the Greek letter
Omega. On my meter these switch positions are in the lower left quadrant.
Continuity is the same thing as VERY little resistance (0 to a few ohms). Use the lowest range when checking for continuity - on the highest range you can hold one of the tips of the meter probes in each hand and it will look like the resistance across your
entire body is fairly small![/list:u]I don't know if you have the time or the inclination to go back and read some background info, but the old thread
Narrowing down the problems to a broken bike (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5500)
contained a lot of "meter talk".
EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net
The twitch in my left eye has stopped :) because I think I found the culprit to my poor running blues.
All four valves are out of spec :oops: Still, I am glad the shop didn't have to figure that out for me.
Like everyone else. I only have a feeler gauge that goes down to .04. The right side intake(D) was at .09. All others were to tight for the .04 feeler.
Also, I have a tiny bit of scoring on one of the lobes. It is maybe 2mm round. Can I ignore this ?
An observation:
It was easy to line up the first three for checking but it took many tries before I could get the notches pointed out to check the left exhaust (A). I guess that was because of the weight of the pistons.
The plan:
I don't have the motion pro tool and I have yet to make my own :oops: I am going to try the zip tie techniqe to hold the timing chain to the sprockets, that Srinath mentioned in another thread. Hopefully, to avoid having to reset the timing. Will the tensioner need to come off ? Any thoughts or words of wisdom ?
Last few questions:
Any one no what the stock shims are ? I am trying to avoid paying $39 for a micrometer and just buying the next size towards spec.
Any recomendations on shops online or local for shims ? Can junk yards be trusted ?
Anyway to make time move forward until tuesday so I can get them ?
John..
most cycle places should be open tommorow.. cycle trends in van nuys shuold be open. My problem with shim prices.. they vary like hell...
I wish i had the micrometer here.. its in sacramento.. if you need help just call me.. i am PMing you my #.
John, I don't think you can count on the stock shims being any particular thickness. I wouldn't be surprised if they were all different from each other.
You just about HAVE to measure each shim and do some math to determine the replacement shim size. There is an added benefit to this approach: you may find that one of out-of-spec shims will serve as a replacement for one of the other out-of-spec shims.
I don't have a micrometer. A few years ago I made an "impulse buy" at Harbor Freight and got a 6" dial caliper with .001" accuracy. I've been surprised at all the uses I've found for it. It's more versatile than a micrometer because it lets you take inside, outside and depth measurements.
If you have a Harbor Freight store in your area, drop in and see what they have in the glass case up front. I found this $15 Dial Caliper (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5647) on their web site, but they may not have that exact model in your area. The Harbor Freight web site (http://www.harborfreight.com) lists many other models - do a keyword search for "caliper".
Meanwhile, if I remember right you ended up with a Clymer manual. I don't think it contains a "shim size cheat sheet" like the one in the Haynes manual. See a scanned image of it here (http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_ShimSelectionChart.jpg).
EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net
I have a thought... It is my opinion that the proper tool for measuring a valve shim would have to be a micrometer. The reason I would not use a caliper is the fact that shims wear in the center of the shim. A caliper can only measure the overall thickness of the shim. With the two parallel "fingers" you really wouldn't be measuring the center, but the edge where the cam lobe never touches. This is at least true with my caliper. Any thoughts?
I understand what you're saying Briggs. Maybe the real question is: do we have to change shims because they wear down or because of other changes in the system?
I'm not sure how much the shims actually wear. I don't remember being able to detect any difference in thickness across the diameter of the shims I pulled. There are probably differences in the ten-thousands range, but the calipers seem to do a good enough job.
Is this just my lack of experience talking? Do any of you engine builders have any more info on this?
Kerry, thanks for the info and the Haynes cheat sheet. :thumb:
Autozone, had the same caliper for $30. There is a Harbor Freight in Pasadena. :) Although, I am going to stop by Home Depot first, to see if they have micrometers or cheaper calipers.
Manjul, I never got your PM :dunno:
I found a micrometer at Home Depot for $20 :thumb: it only uses inches and not mm but thanks to the internet and some conversion program all was figured out.
FYI: Stock shims are
A)Originally was 2.70(I think, the numbers are almost worn away), wore down to 2.55
B)Originally was 2.68, wore down to 2.55
C)Originally was 2.55, still stock
D)Originally was 2.55, still stock
I did get different readings at the edges of the worn shims that differed from the center but mine were probably worst than most :oops:
LA Cycle Sports, Rules :)
Not only were they open today but they had there mechanic go through his box of shims and he found all 4 of the ones I needed :cheers: At $10 a pop.
Now, I am out to the garage to see if I can get it back together. Wish me luck.
John, you're getting to be so good it's :o S..C..A..R..Y..! :o
Can't wait to hear how it all comes back together!
PS - What method did you end up using to pop the shims?
)Originally was 2.68, wore down to 2.55 (
More then likly its the printing worn off, there isnt a 2.68, the shims run in .05 incroments, from 3.0 on down. and some of the printed numbers are NOT linedup, found this out recently, the shims are hardend steel, not likly to wear as most believe, and the lobe runs just slightly off center causeing the shim and bucket to automaticly spin each time the lobe connects. this keeps the parts from Rutting or guaging as well as moves lube around. the noch in the bucket is to help seperate the shim from the bucket. i didint have the tool either, what i did is used a 11/16 wrench(have like 5 of them, used cheapy one) and gently ground the inside fork off and reshaped the outer abit to hold the edge of the bucket without touching the shim. i used a large flat tip screw driver on other edge of the bucket to compress the valve. work slow and carefuly, get a good magnet to pull shims out
Blueknyt, I think you might be correct. All I can figure, maybe because it was original it was a weird size or printing. It didn't show enough wear to justify the size difference. So the numbers were pretty clear. :dunno:
Kerry, thanks for the compliment but I have made way to many mistakes to be called good.
Update:
I made a mistake and had the RT mark a 180% off when I came up with those first measurements. Luckily, they were still pretty close except for the one I thought needed a bigger shim.
Last night, I got A) and D)set to .255
B) and D) were still to tight to get a reading off of.
Today, I went back to LA cycles and exchanged my 2.6 for a 2.4. Unfortanatly, they had no .245's. :(
Went home and put the .240 in the C) and got a .1 clearence. That is what I predicted since I wanted a .245. Then I put the 2.4 in the B) and what do you know it was perfect .05 clearance. That one went down 3 sizes. :o That is also the one with the wear marks on the lobe.
I then went to Marina Suzuki and got a .245 for $5 :) They let me trade in an old one for a half price discount :thumb: To bad I gave him the emphamis .268 that I brought along for comparison. Or I could have scanned it for pondering minds. The shop guy took it no problem.
So now everything measures between .04 and .06 :cheers:
Of course I put everthing back together to hear the sound of an engine that wont turn over :?
Is my method to blame?
I am guessing it is a timing thing and I am about ready to try and reset it. Where was that Bob B. post now that I might understand it ? I'll do a search.
The motor feels a little harder to turn. I tried the zip tie trick to hold the chain to the sprockets. Which I think would have kept it all cool if I hadn't moved the intake cam completely out of its slot. Which was a mistake because from then on I just loosened the bearing bolts and raised the cam just enough to pull them shim out. Everything continued to look right. the notches are in the right places to jive with the RT but I think something might have moved down below. :dunno:
Pull th plugs when you are doing the timing - much easier to turn over, and the engine will stay in place even on the compression stroke.
Note the "forward facing" pick-up is not the one at the front!
Bob's cam timing instructions:
First step: Turn ignition rotor so the R" T" lines up with the forward facing ignition pickup. The mark on the rotor should line up with the metal post on the pickup. This will put the right side piston at top dead center.
The cam chain tensioner should be installed, but backed off completely for maximum slack.
Use a thin flattip screwdriver in the hole of the tensioner. Turn the screwdriver to release the tension and tighten it a little more when it bottoms out. This will keep the tensioner from springing back in.
The cams have a notch on one end.
The notch should be facing each other. Intake notch facing forward and lined up with the edge of the head. Exhaust notch facing back towards the intake cam and lined up with the edge of the head.
The intake cam will sit down all the way. The exhaust cam will stick up on the left cylinder side because the lobe points down.
Install the intake cam bearing caps and just snug them down lightly.
Rotate the crank backwards a little until the exhaust cam sets down.
Then install the bearing caps and snug them. Then release the cam chain tensioner so the slack is taken out. Rotate the motor forward to line up the T mark with the post again. The notches on the cams should be facing straight across at each other. More than likely one will be lined up and the other off a little. Release the chain tension and remove the cam bearing caps on the one that's off. Pull the cam up and move the chain on the sprocket a tooth, so the cam rotates in the direction needed. Then repeat the process. Making sure to check it with the cam chain under tension.
If you line things up without tension, it will change when tension is applied. So you could be off and not know it.
All this is done with very little movement of the crank, so bending anything is not a concern.
After you have the timng mark and the cam notches lined up and cam chain tension applied, you can safely rotate the engine.
Be sure to put some assembly lube on the bearing areas and lobes when you assemble things
at one certin point, it was the cam lobes rolling past center that made it hard to hold on mark.
im going to be buying a digital vernier caliper from ebay for messureing things. probly be an 8". most the digital ones convert to mm too.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible that my timing could be off despite everything looking correct ?
The R(T) marks are in the correct spot as well as the notches on the cams. There are 18 pins between the arrows on the sprockets. The 1 on the exhaust cam is level with the engine block.
I would take pics but it looks like the ones in Clymer.
Everything looks perfect but it feels harder to turn the engine now. When I tried to start it, it didn't sound like it wanted to turn over at all. Sort of a Rahh,Rahh,Rahh but no booms.
OK shims... Yes a 2.68 is prefectly possible... I have seen and pulled out those from bikes... They sell to the public only in increments of .05 but the factory has every size in between.
A worn shim... yes very very possible. I have seen lots of worn shims. However using a micrometer to measure them is wrong. Use a digital vernier... cos the lowest/thinnest pint on the shim isn't what counts... in reality the highest point is what matters.
To get the engine turned over... i put it in gear, take out the spark plugs and turn the back wheel. 6th gear lets you have good control of it.
How did you determine the valves were tight... a .04 guage isn't enough. You should try to turn the bucket with your fingers when the cam is away from the shim. If it spins freely your clearance isn't bad. If not... well its too tight.
And yes you have to get the cam chain tensioner out before taking off the cam shafts, and back in and the chain tight before tryint to turn the motor over.
Cool.
Srinath.
My latest bungle :roll:
I removed the cam chain tensoiner and tried to pull the plug out and of course the top just ripped off. :x Finally, got the rest out. I turned the screw a bit and everthing locked up solid :o I turned it back the other way and that didn't help. I guess in my desperation I turned it to much because that spring thing inside popped loose and was just spinning. I opened up to fix it and it all popped out like the snake in a can of nuts gag. I tried turning the screw with spring out to see if it would loosen the plunger, with no luck. Now, I have it all back together with spring back in correctly but I still won't budge.
You put the cam caps on in the right spots? If they get mixed up, the cams will be very hard to turn.
Some moly grease on the cam bearing surfaces is a good idea before assembly, and the pockets in the head around the lifters should be filled with oil.
Sounds like the cam timing is fine from your description.
Worn cam lobes will only get worse.
Well I finally got the tensioner to engage. I put it in a vice and gave it a little sqeeze. Now if I turn the screw the plunger will retract. Although, it will not retract by just adding pressure. It will return on its own because of the wound coil.
Is this correct? :dunno:
Yeah, the tensioner is supposed to ratchet outwards, but not retract without manually turning the crew.
It's designed to take all the slack out of the cam chain when the loose portion passes the tnsioner, and then hold that position when tension caomes on that side of the chain.
Thanks :thumb:
Well the tensioner is fine from your description. To ger it to retract you have to dis engage the locking clip on the rod and turn in the screw I think. To let it expand... release everything. To install in the motor... get it to retract almost entirely and hold the screw driver in place, release the clip and gingerly install it in the motor... then slowly let the screw driver spin under the spring power... and remember that should be the last thing you do. The camshafts have to be in, and timed right, the slack should be on the back side of the chain etc etc and even after installing it, I slowly turn the motor over by back wheel wihtout the plugs in. Then finally I put plugs in and turn it over with the back wheel. So by this point you know the cam chain has no slack in it.
Cool.
Srinath.
My tensioner broke putting it in but Kevin is sending a replacement so I should be able to try it in a few days.
Thanks, for the wheel turning tip. I will try it. :thumb:
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :) :mrgreen: :)
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :) :mrgreen: :)
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :) :mrgreen: :)
My GS lives !!!!!
Not only does it run but its stalling problem seems to be history :thumb:
Let this be a lesson to check you valves long before 16k miles. :oops:
Srinath, your suggestion of turning the wheel was the trick, to get it to start.
Kevin, your tensioner arrived a few hours ago and apppears to be great.
I would also like to give a big thanks to all the others who gave me great advice :thumb:
Now, I am going to give the GS an oil change and maybe a bath. I was going to go to work but I figure I'll give the GS the weekend off. Maybe, take it to the Chinease New Years parade Saturday :cheers:
Yea, I can finally let this thread die ! At least it didn't go 10 pages ;)
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :) :mrgreen: :)
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :) :mrgreen: :)
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :) :mrgreen: :)
OK 16K... that must be the magic number... 16K mile interval for checking valves. The bike running fine now ??
Cool.
Srinath.
Runs great :thumb: I took it out after a long warm up and resetting the idle to 12k and it pulled and stopped like the day I brought it home from the showroom :) :) :) I got up to like 50mph and slammed on the brakes like an an emergency stop and the idle just went back to 12k. Several similar tests had the same results :mrgreen:
Also, the bit of cam lobe wear has me a little worried so I think I will get to checking them again in 5k miles. Maybe, then I can afford to replace the cam.
Glad to hear the tnsioner arrived as scheduled, and that it worked for you John!
Which cam is scored? I have one good spare cam, but I can't remember which one it is at the moment. Or I have a head with a fresh valve job, some porting work, and a good set of cams for $70...!
In my 89 the right intake cam was scored... I saw that at 8K miles... and at 43K its still scored, just has maybe worn a little and looks less obvious. I believe it makes no diff, and actually it will pick oil and hold it and that might prevent it from getting worse. Just my observation.
Cool.
Srinath.
WOW a spare head for $70 :o That is a great deal ! Unfortanatly, I'll be strapped for another month. :( If another member wants it, they should snap it up. Otherwise, I'll hit you up next month.
The scoring is centered on the the right exhaust lobe. It is not even on the pointy end but like anther 90 degrees around. It looks like some one shot it with a bb gun. That is also the shim I had to go three sizes down to get into spec.
Another trick I learned, that I forgot to mention.
If your valves are to tight to get the feeler gauge in and you can't find a gauge that goes lower that .038. You can buy a really small shim and then you will have enough room to get the feeler gauge in there.
Quote from: JohNLAAnother trick I learned, that I forgot to mention.
If your valves are to tight to get the feeler gauge in and you can't find a gauge that goes lower that .038. You can buy a really small shim and then you will have enough room to get the feeler gauge in there.
Great idea! Now why didn't _I_ think ouf that?
I guess we're even; you said something similar about my
Stupid Magnetic Tank Bag Tricks.
I didn't actually think of it, until after I went to return two of the four shims I originally bought (.250's). I assumed I needed two .245's but they didn't have any, only one .240. I was on my way to anther shop when I figured out that I should be able to get an acurate measurement with the small shim. Luckily, I did go home first and it turned out I did need that .240 but when I put that same .240 in the last valve the clearance read .10. So, at that point I was sure I only needed a .245 for that last one. A final measurement once the .245 was in, proved my trick was acurate.
woot for john... :)
Quote from: KevinCGlad to hear the tnsioner arrived as scheduled, and that it worked for you John!
Which cam is scored? I have one good spare cam, but I can't remember which one it is at the moment. Or I have a head with a fresh valve job, some porting work, and a good set of cams for $70...!
i'm interested in that cyl head....can you email me...
thanks
QuoteI have a head with a fresh valve job,
pm already sent
Weren't you having problems with your battery? What ever happened with that?
ASLAM.
I started a new thread since this thread mostly talked about the valve shims.
Here is the thread
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6658
It turned out I need a new starter. Now, I am waiting on it, to get here.