Do you have to be sitting on teh bike when you tighten the chain and how do you know if your chain is stressed too much and needs to be replaced? I am assuming when the rear tire cant be pulled back anymore and its still loose but I don't know for sure. It has probably 2 inches or better play now... it's REALLY loose. lol.
You are supposed to check it while sitting on it, yes. If you get the recommended slack doing it this way (with help from a friend), get off and check the slack unloaded. You can also use a ratchet strap over the seat and attached to the swingarm, but that has it's own set of problems.
Two inches? I'd say you're about due for a new chain and sprockets (they wear out as a set). There should be a service limit stated in the service manual (or any service manual for a bike that uses a similar chain). It's usually something like "XX millimeters between 10 roller pins."
Quote from: Big Rich on May 18, 2013, 08:23:26 PM
You are supposed to check it while sitting on it, yes.
What!?
No.
One, it is impossible to do without an assistant. Two, the manual states to check with bike on side stand.
How you check it won't make a huge difference.
Once the axle is nearing the back end of the adjuster slots, the chain should be replaced. You can usually hear chattering/clicking noises coming from the chain when it gets significantly worn because when it stretches you don't have as many rollers engaging the sprocket teeth at the same time.
Download this....refer to section 6-16.
http://www.uploadmb.com/dw.php?id=1368936465
I do have an "assistant" that is going to help me do it and he said with his Enduro that he used to ride you had to sit on it to get an accurate measurement so he wasn't sure if the same was true for this bike.
And as for them wearing as a set, my sprockets def. don't need replaced. The back sprocket's teeth look almost brand new or perfect. But I am probably going to adjust it 1 time and then buy a new chain after a while because I am almost positive it needs replaced in the, if not near, future.
There is a little "chatter" when I let off the throttle if the bike is moving but I think that is from the chain hitting the center stand.
I've always adjusted my chains with the bike on the center stand. Doubt I've ever really worn out a chain, riding year around and splashing thru the salt water every winter I'm usually replacing them due to kinky links. How else do you check to see if you have the same free play with chain in any position, can be loose at one position and tight at another. Maybe pushing it down the driveway a foot at a time and checking it as you go like a cruiser guy. :icon_lol: I do check the free play after putting the bike back down if it's same all around on the stand and it's not much different.
I've never replaced a rear sprocket on any bike including the four I've put 80-100k miles on. Front sprocket on GSs needs replaced every chain or two. I can't disagree that replacing them in sets might be a good idea for many, my first oem chains seem to last a little longer but kinkiness soon takes over for me in deciding replacement.
I can see where it might make a big difference checking with the rider on or off for the Enduro or off road type bikes but not on the GS.
http://www.gs500.net/gallery/data/500/GSbrakeschains.jpg
Quote from: CCmatters on May 19, 2013, 06:56:48 AMThere is a little "chatter" when I let off the throttle if the bike is moving but I think that is from the chain hitting the center stand.
Yeah, that can be the case if it's rubbing. I was referring to if the chain is properly tensioned and the sprockets are okay and you still get some chatter.
I fully agree with everything gsJack just posted, although I've never gotten a kinked chain and I haven't been on bikes long enough to see if the rear sprocket will really last 100k miles.
Thanks a lot guys. I just got done tightening the chain and it was a LOT easier than I thought with those lines and the notch to help you make them even. I did sit on it and had the other guy check the tension so I don't bust it going over big pot holes, which there is a lot of around where I live, and me being about 275 lbs I wanted to be safe. The chain seems fine. The bike only has about 17.5k miles on it. It still has like 5 or 6 more notches to go before it is fully tightened and it doesnt have any kinks or anything in it. I also lubed the chain which it needed desperately and drive it a few miles and I do believe my bike 100% needs nothing now for the rest of the riding season.
The clutch DOES seem to be slipping a little if I am full throttle shifting from 9-10k rpms. It'll go down to 7k RPMs and and then slip to 9k for a second and then go back down normal. It doesnt do it often buuut.. you know. Just somethign to keep in mind. It may have sat around for a while before i got it and that could be the cause.
Quote from: CCmatters on May 19, 2013, 06:56:48 AM
There is a little "chatter" when I let off the throttle if the bike is moving but I think that is from the chain hitting the center stand.
You can hear a rattle at slow speeds on the overrun (coasting) with a badly worn front sprocket. Turning it around until you get a new one will stop the rattle. The sound is the rollers releasing from the hooked teeth on a worn sprocket. I had a couple old Hondas with hubless sprockets like the 89-93 GSs that I could turn.
I use an old socket T-handle rod to run the chain over while it is in the centre stand to find the tight spot in the chain, it can take a few revolutions of the back wheel to find the tightest spot. I then adjust so there is around 25~35mm of slack and then its pretty well set. Don't rely on the notch marks they can be very inaccurate. I use a laser chain aligner to ensure proper alignment of the chain on the sprockets. A poorly aligned chain will prematurely wear the sprockets and the chain. They only cost about $60 and will pay for themselves with the extended life you get from your chain and sprockets.
Quote from: Big Rich on May 18, 2013, 08:23:26 PM
You are supposed to check it while sitting on it, yes. If you get the recommended slack doing it this way (with help from a friend), get off and check the slack unloaded. You can also use a ratchet strap over the seat and attached to the swingarm, but that has it's own set of problems.
Two inches? I'd say you're about due for a new chain and sprockets (they wear out as a set). There should be a service limit stated in the service manual (or any service manual for a bike that uses a similar chain). It's usually something like "XX millimeters between 10 roller pins."
I disagree. Chain slack isn't based on load the way that sag is. Instead, slack is tuned so that the chain will have sufficient slack when fully compressed. Full compression is based on geometry and shock travel, not based on load.
Chain slack is very rough anyway. Minimum slack and Maximum allowed slack have a range of about one inch.
Unless the adjustment value specifically says to check chain tension with the bike loaded, assume the value is for an unloaded bike.
Also: Remember to double check your alignment and chain slack after tightening up the axle. I've seen a lot of bikes where the geometry changes after torquing the axle bolt.
I wouldn't recommend using those notches to align the wheel, those little little plates can rotate and give you a fairly bad reading. Run a string from the center of the rear axle to the center of the swingarm bolt and get the lengths even from that.