So i'm removing the studs from the 2002 case to install on the 1992 case and the inner studs are on tight. I've gotten all the outer ones off no problem I used heat on the inner ones and so far have broken one of two. I left the other two in until i sort out my technique for removal.
So any advice on removal. I'm using a big pipe wrench.....16" maybe.
Also anyone have any studs hanging around.....(time for bad joke) ......they'd like to part with......I'll check in with the for sale board....
thanks
A pipe wrench? Why not 2 nuts- put them down the threads, then wind out the bottom nut until it's tight against the top nut. It essentially makes a bolt out of the stud.
You could use your hand as an improved impact wrench (just bang on the end of the rachet with the palm of your hand in the loose direction) while making sure the socket is on the stud nut tight.
Advice on removal?
Use the correct tools :thumb:
(http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/555/555-80510.jpg)
Dang! Didn't realize there was a tool for this.
Sledge.....thanks for the helpful suggestion.
the other advice hmmm.
Double nutting is what i'd use usually but these guys are in there "tight"....I'm using heat and a big fkin wrench.....
two more to go......
So i purchased the tool as shown.
Didn't get even close to removing the studs. These baby's are in there. I used heat and a 16 inch pipe wrench and proceeded to break one more.
When ordering the new replacements from the local dealer he explained the problem i was experiencing was caused by the excessive heat when the rod bearing expired. I believe it. The crank was four shades of blue and purple. Also unlike most tough bolt removals it was constantly difficult to back out. It never got easier as the stud was loosening. I think the heat caused the threads to distort.
new ones are on order and can resume on Tuesday.
err.. i know a lot of you lads like to recycle bits and pieces .. and love to keep the budget low ..
but like wheel nut studs and such .. if its that hard to get out initially .. i would have gone for the new ones to start with ..
not trying to rag on Lusky .. but if stud/bolt like that needs heat AND a oversize wrench to remove??... i wouldnt think they used heat and that much pressure to put it in there.... so unless spins out with 'normal' size tool ... leave it to posterity eh?!.. even heating and torquing the studs like that is going to apply forces that the bolt was not designed for.. i think?
just sayin
:thumb:
Never known studs to be that tight, there must have been some reason for it. Maybe in the past one of those misguided individuals who believe in applying Loctite to every fastening in sight has had their hands on it :dunno_black:
Ok they are out now but I suggest you run a suitable size plug tap down those holes and blow any debris out before trying to refit the replacements.
Quote from: sledge on June 02, 2013, 11:44:38 PM
Never known studs to be that tight, there must have been some reason for it. Maybe in the past one of those misguided individuals who believe in applying Loctite to every fastening in sight has had their hands on it :dunno_black:
Ok they are out now but I suggest you run a suitable size plug tap down those holes and blow any debris out before trying to refit the replacements.
ahh .. i know people with "Loc-tite-itis" .. cant friggin help themselves... :icon_rolleyes: :D .. its like a disease once you start eh!!
and while ive never plug tapped personally .. YES!!! .. seen it done and very effective it was too! .. also seen it not done, result = :icon_eek: :confused: :mad:
New studs will be here Tues.
I'll tap and blow dem holes......and restud em.
Didn't see any evidence of loctight. Applying heat will usually break it down.
I think the excessive heat and unequal expansion of the two dissimilar metals is the culprit here.
thanks again. :D