Hey guys,
I cleaned the tank and that dislodged a bunch of gunk. At first i didn't have fuel filters on, but now I'm on my second set. Plan to do one more before going back to regular open lines. So, the other day the bike ran fine other than a little fuel starvation from the in line filters. However, when i got home the bike kept bogging down to like 1k rpm and i could tell it was going to die. This has happened before. Also the left carb was over flowering.
At this point the throttle was sluggish in the low end. I drained the carbs, sprayed some carb cleaner into the drain hole and tried again in the morning. Full choke it was only pushing 1500 ~2k.. Idle screw is fine. Do you guys think its gunked up carbs/ plugged jets?
Thanks guys
Check your floats as well, doesn't take much of a bump to throw off the springs.
Ok, next question,
I have taken apart carbs from another bike before with ease and cleaned them without referencing the manual. I don't have a manual for the gs500, should i get one before proceeding? And also, do you guys think i should buy a rebuild kit? If so, which one and where? Thanks every body. :thumb:
I had problems with my bike bogging down so bad that it wouldn't even run.
1. Cleaned out the bad gas.
2. Ran some ethanol stabilizer through it several times.
3. Cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner.
4. Ran seafoam through the bike.
5. Adjusted the idle mixture screws.
My problem was that the previous owner had let the bike sit with bad gas, and made the carbs dirty. The bike was also running too lean, as well.
My buddy is a genius mechanic, and he helped my little noob self figure everything out.
YMMV.
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 02, 2013, 09:34:55 AM
Ok, next question,
I have taken apart carbs from another bike before with ease and cleaned them without referencing the manual. I don't have a manual for the gs500, should i get one before proceeding? And also, do you guys think i should buy a rebuild kit? If so, which one and where? Thanks every body. :thumb:
GS carbs are as easy as they get.
BTW what bike was it you pulled carbs from ?
Rebuild kit - only if you need to have the float gaskets. The rest are regular O rings - weird sizes, but O rings nonetheless. I can set you with a set for an 89-00 for $10. Or you can take them to your local place and fit em and get em.
Cool.
Buddha.
Buddha,
The carbs i took apart and cleaned were from a 78 xs750 triple. Very simple to clean. Do you think it is wise to reuse the flat bowl gaskets? And i will probably just buy the orings locally.
Xevamir,
Thanks for the input. I have already done most of that, except for clean the carbs thoroughly.
Question for any body, what are your guys thoughts on the gas tank sealer that re coats the inside of your gas tank? I'm thinking about applying some after i run through the last set of filters
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 02, 2013, 12:28:21 PMXevamir,
Thanks for the input. I have already done most of that, except for clean the carbs.
My friend also took out the jets and cleaned them as well.
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 02, 2013, 12:28:21 PM
Buddha,
The carbs i took apart and cleaned were from a 78 xs750 triple. Very simple to clean. Do you think it is wise to reuse the flat bowl gaskets? And i will probably just buy the orings locally.
Xevamir,
Thanks for the input. I have already done most of that, except for clean the carbs thoroughly.
Question for any body, what are your guys thoughts on the gas tank sealer that re coats the inside of your gas tank? I'm thinking about applying some after i run through the last set of filters
Yea GS carbs are not any worse than the xs.
The sealer - its important to get all the rust out, I dont like sealers that seal in spite of rust ... those people that use that are pretty much doing it to get it out the door before the tank rusts out ... it will continue to rust, keep it hidden and crap out ...
Treat the rust, etch the metal proper, dry it properly, and coat it POR15 or kreem ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: Xevamir on July 02, 2013, 12:43:12 PM
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 02, 2013, 12:28:21 PMXevamir,
Thanks for the input. I have already done most of that, except for clean the carbs.
My friend also took out the jets and cleaned them as well.
i sure hope he did! Haha. That will be done as part of the carbs
Quote from: The Buddha on July 02, 2013, 01:04:12 PM
Yea GS carbs are not any worse than the xs.
The sealer - its important to get all the rust out, I dont like sealers that seal in spite of rust ... those people that use that are pretty much doing it to get it out the door before the tank rusts out ... it will continue to rust, keep it hidden and crap out ...
Treat the rust, etch the metal proper, dry it properly, and coat it POR15 or kreem ...
Cool.
Buddha.
I cleaned the gas tank with clr and bbs from a bb gun. CLR = Calcium lime and rust. Gets rid of them. Do you think i would be ok to seal it? There is still visual rust but i think the worst of it is gone.
My old katana had tank sealant in it that was sealed over rust. Like Buddha said that is no good.
I had to take the old sealant out and use the Kreeme kit. In the Kreeme kit, one of the steps is an etch that takes away all the rust and scale. If you follow the directions and be patient with the steps it works great but you have to get all of the rust before you seal. I have read that Kreeme is known to break down and flake causing issues. I've heard nothing bad about the POR15 system but I have no personal experience with it.
Either way make sure every last bit of rust is gone.
There is some solvent stuff at the motorcycle shop i go to that has a pack of three different small containers with different chemicals for sealing the gas tank. I can't remember what its called, but it was like 40 ~ 60 bucks. You think that's the stuff? I'll call for the name later.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J0DHZK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1372807046&sr=8-6&pi=SL75
That is the kit I used on my Katana. Worked like a charm.
CLR is crap.
I use muriatic acid .. then dry it ... actually neutralise the acid with baking soda, then dry it.
Then prep with acetone ... then dry it again, but no need to dry it 100 off the acetone then kreem sealer.
POR 15 also same steps, but after acid, use their first treatment it lays down a coating of something, but if you put it in a rusty tank, it makes tons of scales and powdery crap. So muriatic acid first.
Then rinse it and dry it as best as you can. Then sealer.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks for all the input guys gunna start on it right away.
Tonight I'm going to take the tank off in the little time I have and get it ready for Thursday, my day off, to do the air box and carbs.
One other problem I have is that when I turn the tank pet chicken to off it still slowly leaks drops of gas. I took it apart, cleaned it and replaced the o rings, still have the same problem. Could that plastic valve be worn out?
You dont need the books as been answered.
Skip the kit and get the orings and other parts you need, no sense in a kit.
As far as sealing I will leave that one off my response, many seal, others clean as best and run with it.. the seal has to seal the entire inside of an odd shaped tank.. just saying.
I wont disagree with Buddha however, for obvious reasons!.. and because he's The guru Ba-moo-derator
Good luck!
So I took the carbs apart and there was a very thin layer of gunk on the bottom and one of the floats was staying down after being pushed down, with a little pressure it would come back up where as the other was free. Also, the air cleaner was extremely dirty. I'll post pictures later. I don't know if cleaning the carbs will fix my whole problem though, just a little skeptical. I'm sure the air filter has a little to do with it as well.
Check this thread.
I think the needle valve is the issue on the one that wont pop back up.
Check this thread where I posted pictures. (stolen from the wiki pics).
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=64706.0
Finally have the time to upload pictures.
So here's the top half of the float bowls. To me it looks pretty clean. Like I said before the float was sticky. I will probably do what you suggested Snake.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130702_224839_zpsa53c8ee1.jpg)
All I have to do is remove those gold/brass flat head screws in the middle of the floats and spray some carb cleaner down there? Before all I did was spray a ton of carb cleaner into the small holes in the high speed idle and low speed idle.
Heres the float bowls
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130702_224825_zpsd319ec78.jpg)
Pretty dirty right? I'll clean those up and get all that gunk off.
Heres the comparison of the old air filter and the new filter. What do you guys think? Would this help quite a bit?
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130702_223330_zps2d7a8c59.jpg)
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130702_223226_zps615110f5.jpg)
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130702_223336_zpsbd06b9d5.jpg)
Heres the new air filter installed and air box cleaned. Looking nice.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130702_223901_zpsf4cfeb94.jpg)
carbs :dunno_black: .. i dont mess with carbs ... yet ...
air filter .... :icon_eek: ... good grief!! ... does that thing lweigh an extra pound heavier than the new one??.... that is FILTHY!!! .. the inside (dirty side, normally the outside on a car/truck filter) .. actually looks like someone previous to yourself has sprayed 'filter oil' in there to 'help catch the dirt because you use it for foam filters right!? .. so it must be better in here too' ... ?? :icon_rolleyes:
which reminds me i gotta "silicon spray my bike seat again so it makes it easier to slide my ass from side to side in the twisties!!" :cookoo: ... and yes i have a mate who is that 'elite' a rider that he does this .. claims a '10 seconds quicker' over a particular 2km stretch of twisty road locally!!! ... but he also claims that swingarm flex at 90km/h puts him off .. so he needs a new custom built alloy swingarm with extra re-inforcing! to counter it... ;) ... he's a good lad really .. just ... young .. :confused:
I can't tell what from the picture, but something is up with the plastics on the right side carb...well, right in the picture. Is it all brittle and cracked? That would be bad. Just doesn't look like it's in good shape.
Quote from: Janx101 on July 03, 2013, 05:35:31 PM
carbs :dunno_black: .. i dont mess with carbs ... yet ...
air filter .... :icon_eek: ... good grief!! ... does that thing lweigh an extra pound heavier than the new one??.... that is FILTHY!!! .. the inside (dirty side, normally the outside on a car/truck filter) .. actually looks like someone previous to yourself has sprayed 'filter oil' in there to 'help catch the dirt because you use it for foam filters right!? .. so it must be better in here too' ... ?? :icon_rolleyes:
which reminds me i gotta "silicon spray my bike seat again so it makes it easier to slide my ass from side to side in the twisties!!" :cookoo: ... and yes i have a mate who is that 'elite' a rider that he does this .. claims a '10 seconds quicker' over a particular 2km stretch of twisty road locally!!! ... but he also claims that swingarm flex at 90km/h puts him off .. so he needs a new custom built alloy swingarm with extra re-inforcing! to counter it... ;) ... he's a good lad really .. just ... young .. :confused:
Ohhhh Janx... Always a pleasure ;)
Yea the air filter was quite ridiculous.. I hope that makes it run better.
Quote from: Soloratov on July 03, 2013, 05:55:17 PM
I can't tell what from the picture, but something is up with the plastics on the right side carb...well, right in the picture. Is it all brittle and cracked? That would be bad. Just doesn't look like it's in good shape.
Solor, it's not cracked, but yes I know it looks really messed up. It could be very brittle I'm guessing. I pulled one of the floats off and it wont go back in now. I havent pushed very hard, because I dont want it to break. Is that normal? I am talking about where the float comes out and has the rubber oring.
It should kind of, pop back in without much force. It is deformed at all? That will have to be replaced if it won't seat properly.
You have to go all the way apart like this:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=56601.0
Pull the tops off and all plastics and rubber out (T's are ok left in and carbs can stay mounted together)
Then use an air compressor and tooth brush and guitar pic (or similar object be careful around the brass jets) and clean the jets, blow air through all the small channels like you see here these brass passageways:
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/airfilterside-1.jpg)
Try these links on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJh1hxNf7BA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ2Crz1wVts
Then check the jets to make sure your working with stock.. sometimes your not and if your not the stock settings are not relevant.
Reset to stock settings as you re assemble. Check ALL orings for flatness, cracks, brittleness, etc. Then reassemble.
If that float wont go back in the oring is probably messed up.. Check it its on the end of the float there get a good look.
I swear by the air compressor. I have sprayed and sprayed carb cleaner through passages with no flow.. one quick blast with the air compressor and bam its clean.
As you blast out the passageways make sure you feel air coming out the other end. You will be able to find where all the passageways go as you blow air and feel.
On the jets hold them up to the light check the holes. They both should be able to be seen through and across from hole to hole. I have used a bread twist tie metal to poke them clean. Again dont go all crazy and scratch them all up.
Somewhere in there you have:
Gunk
Ethanol fuel crap
Bad orings
Leaky floats
Stuck needle valves
etc.
Go through them more than randomly spraying carb cleaner. I said this before but I personally always take pictures as they come apart. I use a small stainless bowl to drop parts from each carb. I keep the same parts from the left carb on the left carb, I dont mix.
Get the whole things apart. dont spray a compressed air through it with that diaphragm on there.
My plan was to go through them quite thoroughly, but I am getting complacent and just want to put them all back together, which is probably bad. Any who, Heres some pics. Tell me what you guys think, (what I did wrong/what I should do).
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130704_000534_zps181521a4.jpg)
Top on before I cleaned it and bottom one cleaned. The gunk was on there pretty darn good even after soaking them a little bit, so what I did was use one of those tiny flat heads that are silver with the spiny top, to scrap it clean. Left some scratches, anything wrong with that?
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130704_005040_zps5bdf24b8.jpg)
I did the same thing with this top half. It had a ton of what seemed to be calcium build up, like a white gunk. The left was the worst. Yes I did remove the gasket before spraying carb cleaner, and I did spray down into the passageways and put a qtip down there to pick up the extra stuff. I thoroughly cleaned the jets and the floats, which turned out to be pretty nice. I just sprayed carb cleaner down the high speed idle and low speed idle a bunch of times and called it good, safe?
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130704_022728_zpsd9464bd7.jpg)
Heres everything all cleaned. Plan on putting them back together after buying two new float orings.
Diaphragms reomoved and checked.. hopefully before spraying em with carb cleaner.. there are orings in the tops.
Guess what I found?? A ton of crap pluggin up the jet passage way and the main jet area. This is what I mean, if you can see the gunk right in the middle of the hole. It took up like 1/2 to 3/4 of the hole. This explains the fuel starvation and flooding carbs.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130704_133355_zpse04421d7.jpg)
On top of that, two pieces this size came out of that passage way as well.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130704_132657_zpse0883cc2.jpg)
I replaced the two orings on the jet buckets or whatever you call them. This should definitely fix my problem.
I have no air compressor so all I did was use one of my new fuel lines to directly blow into the passage way with a bunch of carb cleaner in there. Seemed to do the trick.
good result!! :thumb: ...
... dont know that there was a TON of crap in there.... by the looks of it with my 'official truck driver guesstimator eye' .. that cant be more than HALF A TON!! :D ;) ;) ;)
Quote from: Janx101 on July 04, 2013, 05:00:27 PM
good result!! :thumb: ...
... dont know that there was a TON of crap in there.... by the looks of it with my 'official truck driver guesstimator eye' .. that cant be more than HALF A TON!! :D ;) ;) ;)
Haha, i just hope that i got it all. Can't wait to get it all together. Won't have time until tomorrow after work.
The plugged jet alone was most of your issue. I wouldn't be surprised if it ran like new now!
Its crazy that its been like that since I've had it. No way that large of a piece got through the tank filter
sweet deal. is that rust?
see she doesn't want to get thrown off a cliff. !
Hahaha... That's a good one. Idk what it was, not rust. To be honest it looked like an autumn leaf lol, and the other piece too. Tonight i will take off the hose and look through the junction/clean the hose. Should i take off those brass flat head high speed and low speed jets and snoop around?
I guess what i am asking is, is there a certain amount of times you thread those high speed and low speed jets in, or is it just until its tight? If i have to do some sort of special tuning after taking those off i don't think its worth it.
I don't have the three jets, and my understanding is only the pilot jet accessable from outside the carb is adjustable. The others are all until tight. Don't go crazy either but make sure there snug enough.
Funny story in May was up riding the trails at a buddies house his sons crf150 started bogging we were miles from home. we got her started and drove back home more limped her home.
that night after a few drinks I said lets tear into that carb and see what the deal.is. they hadn't done carb work, but let me have at it. I no more than dropped thw bowl and the main jet fell out! I can't believe it was even running earlier to get us home.
His son had been in there earlier in the spring and cleaned the bowl and jet..... never tightened it enough. Over time it wiggled loose and fwll out.
A good way to check you worry is try to tightwn them first and if they tighten up count the turns. But I dont believe any are adjustable. No way they would expect you to disassemble to adjust.
Jets are not adjustable. They all go in until snug. I believe you are referring to the external mixture screws under the closed caps. Just reinstall the jets as you removed them, and make them as tight as you can without the screw driver warping the slot.
Thanks guys!
Some good info. Idk what they're called, that's just what they were called on my older bike. I just want to take then off and make sure they aren't plugged as well.
Yeah you came this far, go to town.
The brass are all jets.
Just the one can be set it seems, as I thought.
And that's the one attached to the float right? How do you adjust that?
Ok.
What year is this? Isnt it a pre 01? (I forget what year they switched).
This should be the bottom of the carbs:
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/bottom2-1.jpg)
That "mixture screw" is the only * adjustable one from outside the carbs. Sometimes its called a pilot jet, etc.
* I lied (the idle adjustment knob can also be done to bring the idle into the 1500-2000 rpm range once the carbs are dialed in and functioning).
The only other "adjustment" you can do is the float height.
That is done by adjusting this arm.. up (when carbs are installed) raises the float height:
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carblowerinternals2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/floatandneedle2-1.jpg)
Dont adjust float height till you have it back together, and on center stand and have verified its not level with float bowl.. Heres a pic I took:
(http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af147/Snake2715/IMAG1459_zpsb73ea6bb.jpg)
(http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af147/Snake2715/IMAG1462_zpse4a91899.jpg)
I can tell you for sure the right side (while sitting on bike) float height can be adjust without removing the carbs. I dropped that bowl and adjusted while carbs were installed.. I would imagine left can be done as well.
So bottom line you have one "mixture" or "Pilot" screw to adjust and that can be done while carbs are on the bike as well. Key here is to reset that "pilot" screw to stock settings or whatever settings you need.
I guess if were being more technical you can adjust the other jets.. but thats done by actually replacing them with bigger or smaller jets, not by screwing them in or out.
Make sense? Answer your question?
Good stuff snake, that's what i like to hear. I don't think i will be adjusting the float heights. If out quirks don't fix it lol
Quote from: Snake2715 on July 05, 2013, 01:58:45 PMI can tell you for sure the right side (while sitting on bike) float height can be adjust without removing the carbs. I dropped that bowl and adjusted while carbs were installed.. I would imagine left can be done as well.
I have replaced both float needles and seats, as well set the float heights, with the carbs on the bike. It can be done.
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 05, 2013, 02:43:18 PM
Good stuff snake, that's what i like to hear. I don't think i will be adjusting the float heights. If out quirks don't fix it lol
Get em clean, back together and pilot jets adjusted and ride it a bit. A week or so later check plugs, check float height and then synch. Its amazing what in spec valves, and properly tuned carbs will make her feel like.
So. I got some good news, and questionable news, and some very very bad news.... So Ill start with the very very bad news.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130705_174202_zpsacac2baf.jpg)
I did it... I broke the damn brass screw that goes above the middle jet... Hopefully Adidas responds soon, I was really looking forward to putting them back on the bike and riding tonight...
Anyways, the good news is that the carbs are very clean and ready to put together now other than that broken screw... I even blew the same spot out again and 2 more chunks came out. I blew a few more times and called it good.
The questionable news is that when I pulled the screw out for the first time the oring was broken, so I went and bought some new ones but they were thicker and had a smaller hole, so this is the outcome:
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130705_174136_zps84654075.jpg)
I dont know if you can see it but there is some of the oring squishing out over the sides. Is this a bad thing? I was under the impression you just need it to seal. Thanks guys, wish me luck in getting a new screw asap...
That brass screw is the main jet. You broke the main jet. They're brass, man, you don't need to hulk them down. Also, the jets should not have o-rings--this probably contributed to the breaking of the jet, due to the fewer threads engaged.
The o-ring goes on the bowl itself...around the vacuum hole.
Please, use this for reference.
#10 is the o-ring.
#13 is the pilot
#14 is the main jet
#20 is the mixture screw
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Soloratov/SuzukiGs500EServiceManual.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Soloratov/media/SuzukiGs500EServiceManual.jpg.html)
He just left the Bike Cave with a bag of carb parts so he should be good to ride in another day.
I didn't have 125 jets but did have new 122.5 jets so he's going with those for now to get back on the road. That 2% different jet size should be OK. They can be changed back to 125 later but for now he has 2 brand new jets to get running. He also got a bag of assorted carb o-ring parts.
Quote from: adidasguy on July 05, 2013, 08:01:07 PMThat 2% different jet size should be OK.
(http://i.imgur.com/65rYsaq.gif)
Quote from: Soloratov on July 05, 2013, 06:45:58 PM
The o-ring goes on the bowl itself...around the vacuum hole.
Please, use this for reference.
#10 is the o-ring.
#13 is the pilot
#14 is the main jet
#20 is the mixture screw
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Soloratov/SuzukiGs500EServiceManual.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Soloratov/media/SuzukiGs500EServiceManual.jpg.html)
Doesnt 10 go on top of the diaphragm?
Jacob.,
#15 is the one I have seen go bad and get missed.
Make sure the orings are the right size for the #15 as well. They can be had for a few dollars shipped, if your local place cant get them on rockymountainatv.com or bikebandit.com etc
#19 I have seen go bad as well.
I pointed out the #10 o-ring because that seems to be the easiest one to lose. #15 should come attached...at least mine did.
He wouldn't need to buy a new seat though, just the oring for it.
Or are we not on the same page.
My seat doesn't have o-rings...where do they go!? Sorry...
I was just assuming since the ones he had were too small, they may have been the #10, very well could be wrong though. Sounds like Adidas got him squared away. Hopefully it'll start up, and run nice and smooth!
Quote from: Soloratov on July 05, 2013, 09:48:42 PM
My seat doesn't have o-rings...where do they go!? Sorry...
O Rly? well that's why your shock makes noise then....
:icon_lol:
I guess we should figure that out. I kind of took it for the fact that he just used random orings.. Jacob you do need to make sure any orings you use are the correct ones, some types of orings if just generic off the shelf will not hold up against fuel and will deteriorate.
It was not that oring my friend, it was the oring under the main jet. It is running extremely fine. I am very grateful that Adidas gave me all the parts I needed and more! We rejetted it back to stock settings. I set the idle good went on a little ride and its doing fine! So glad. Now, to buy a pistol... or to buy a full Jardine exhaust. Opinions?
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 06, 2013, 01:30:33 PMIt was not that oring my friend, it was the oring under the main jet.
There is no o-ring under the main jet. Don't put one there.
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 06, 2013, 01:30:33 PM
It was not that oring my friend, it was the oring under the main jet. It is running extremely fine. I am very grateful that Adidas gave me all the parts I needed and more! We rejetted it back to stock settings. I set the idle good went on a little ride and its doing fine! So glad. Now, to buy a pistol... or to buy a full Jardine exhaust. Opinions?
What is the main jet in the diagram above?
I mean what are you calling the main jet where you put this oring? What part #?
The actual main jet is #14.. look at the diagram no oring goes there.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130704_133355_zpse04421d7.jpg)
Is that pic stolen from your other thread where you are talking with the oring? Thats part #16 and is the float needle seat. An oring does go there, yes.
Clarify for us if you would.
Glad to hear its driveable.
Yes number 14, the main jet. When i took both mine out they had orings, and the kiss Patrick had have orings, so i think I'll be safe lol
You're actually not being safe by using o-rings where there shouldn't be o-rings. You're limiting thread engagement by not assembling the carbs how they were designed to be assembled, and you've already broken one jet because of that. Putting o-rings in the jets is doing more harm than good.
That picture of yours I posted above.. that is not number 14. You are aware of that correct?
Otherwise as been said the main jet does not need orings. There is a whole in the jet so think about it what exactly would the oring seal?
Yes not that in the picture above lol. Both the main jets I removed had orings that seemed to belong there, so I just replaced them. Im sure it wont hurt anything. But I'm definitely not breaking into them again to take that oring out haha
Quote from: jacob92icu on July 07, 2013, 10:50:46 AM
Yes not that in the picture above lol. Both the main jets I removed had orings that seemed to belong there, so I just replaced them. Im sure it wont hurt anything. But I'm definitely not breaking into them again to take that oring out haha
well its running so thats good to know. Odd that AdidasGuy had the orings to give you for the main jets..
You would only have to drop the bowls to pull those. It would be a 30 minutes or less job, just leave the carbs installed.
Yea, but I'm not too worried about it lol. Just drove it to work again lol. Finally.
Did you have carbs off a 2001+ by chance?