So today I checked the valve clearances for the 1st time which I'm pretty proud of I'm just wondering if I can tell you guys the results to see if its worth changing any.
Here are the results
Exaust left 0.04
Exaust right 0.09
Intake left 0.04
Intake right 0.05
Cheers
If it was me I would do both exhaust valves even though they are just in spec.
The exhaust left i was not to worries about because my understanding is that 0.4 is okay and wear over time will cause it to increase so its has a fair way before its over 0.8 i was mainly concerned about the the exhaust right being 0.9 but then i could be wrong
Sorry I meant both left valves
They won't go any lower than 0.04 though right?
Yep they will... wear means the valves sinking further into the head... which is up... meaning the clearance from the shim to the camshaft lobe will actually decrease, not increase. This is why it's good to be on the loose side :thumb:
It's been my experience intake valves rarely if ever change and exhaust valves get tighter. None get looser from cam/shim wear, the exhausts get tighter from receding into their seats and they recede or wear into their seats much faster if run on the tighter side of the Suzuki .03-08 mm spec. I set exhausts to a wider .08-.13 spec (.003-.005") spec.
I'd go at least one shim smaller on your left exhaust valve or maybe even two shims smaller on the left and one on the right to give them both about .14 mm clearance. I was half way thru my 2nd GS500 before I cought on to this. Once I got enough extra clearance in the exhaust valves at 40k miles I went to 80k miles before making another exhaust shim change.
Here's my record of the valve checks for my GSs, keep in mind I work and record in inches rather than mm if you even bother to look :icon_lol: just hit 99k miles on the 02:
http://www.gs500.net/gallery/data/500/GSvalvelogs.jpg
Cheers, do you think it will be ok to leave them for 6 months?
Yes, unless your riding 2-3k miles a month. :icon_lol:
Nope :p so I have some other questions I was able to get the shim off at it has a slot that you out the screw drive in to pop the shim up however the left exhaust and one if the intakes the slow is under the cam so I couldn't get the screw driver in there to get the shim out any tips for this?
If the buckets are properly fit in the head you can turn them around with your fingertip with the cam lobe turned away from the bucket/shim. If you can't turn them that way it could be a problem depending on how much too tight they are.
So turn it then put the bucket down with the valve tool and then remove the shim?
You got it!
Or, you can use a magnet to suck the shim right out of there. (See the type of "telescoping magnet tool" I use in the photo below.)
(http://bbburma.net/Documents/ValveAdjustmentVideo/100_1983_ValveAdjustmentTools.jpg)
(Whoa! I forgot how big that pic was!)
That magnetic tool is your friend.
I was also very careful and got a flathead screwdriver I could turn sideways between the bucket and cam (not lobe) and that would wedge the bucket down.. then just use my magnet to pull it. This is completely unecessary if you have an extra set of hands to help you for a few minutes, and less frustrating.
There you go Kerry:
(http://bbburma.net/Documents/ValveAdjustmentVideo/100_1983_ValveAdjustmentTools.jpg)
Noooooooooo don't use a magnetic tool on the shims! I have heard that you risk magnetising the shims... and if you stop the engine with the cam lobe against a shim that is magnetised... if it breaks the seal and lifts the shim out of the bucket on the first rotation, it will end in disaster...
I do not speak from experience... but I do see how this is very possible...
Quote from: peteGS on July 16, 2013, 01:09:28 PM
Noooooooooo don't use a magnetic tool on the shims! I have heard that you risk magnetising the shims... and if you stop the engine with the cam lobe against a shim that is magnetised... if it breaks the seal and lifts the shim out of the bucket on the first rotation, it will end in disaster...
I do not speak from experience... but I do see how this is very possible...
Holy crap.... I suppose thats possible, maybe?
I believe many have suggested this forever.. so wonder why its not been posted about much?
Quote from: Snake2715 on July 16, 2013, 01:21:05 PM
Quote from: peteGS on July 16, 2013, 01:09:28 PM
Noooooooooo don't use a magnetic tool on the shims! I have heard that you risk magnetising the shims... and if you stop the engine with the cam lobe against a shim that is magnetised... if it breaks the seal and lifts the shim out of the bucket on the first rotation, it will end in disaster...
I do not speak from experience... but I do see how this is very possible...
Holy crap.... I suppose thats possible, maybe?
I believe many have suggested this forever.. so wonder why its not been posted about much?
No no no no no hell no.
1. Only soft iron can be magnetised. Shims are hardened.
2. The heat will cause it to lose magnetism in a few 100 feet (after comming to temp)
3. The gap between shim and bucket is of the order of 1-7 thousandths (GS is 1-3, but yamaha maxim types is 3-7) and your shim is 2.5mm or there abouts ... its like a tenth of an inch. You're dealing with a shim that is 10X the gap. Will never come out without you cranking the valve spring open.
4. If the shim levitates, it will squish back in no time and be held there with oil.
5. Very very very hard to get a shim like object, even if its a soft iron peice to be magnetised through its thickness once it is cut into that form. Any magnetising you do will be across the diameter. That way the strongest part will be one corner. You see how a magnet may have no power in the middle, but the corner will ahve a bit of power ... that will happen and it will not have any magnetism to lift itself out even against its weight.
Not gonna happen, dont worry about it. Just dont leave a hunk of magnet in there and button it back up.
Cool.
Buddha.
Yeah I did try getting them out with a magnet but they would come out
Hmmm. Well, it definitely helps if you can get a tiny screwdriver under the shim (through the cutout in the bucket), but I'm a little surprised that the magnet didn't work by itself. Maybe it's been too long since I've done it myself, and I don't remember details like how strongly the oil under the shim holds it down, etc.
But I'm also wondering if you're getting enough clearance between the shim and the cam lobe to allow the shim to pop out?
Well ... if you're able to rotate the bucket and expose the cutout, that will be the best way to go. If not ... we'll have to figure out a way to punt. :dunno_black:
I noticed a white liquid when I took the air box hose off, what is it?
[attachment deleted by admin]
Leftover spray if you been checking boots for leaks?
Condensation. Is it raining a lot/humid?
I have not checked the boots. It has not rained for a few days the bike is always in the garage. I dud ride in the rain about 4 days ago
your gs must have seen another gs and got a little excited.
Lol smooth