This winter im hoping to rebuild my carbs. They were leaking a while ago out of the air box. I figured out that it was probably the float but with a bit of banging on the carb bowl and bounce around the bike a little it would go back to normal. It just started again while the bike is on the kickstand so i figured since the rebuild kits are not too expensive that i would just replace the gasket and needle. But what i can't seem to find is a new float. Does anyone know where i can find one. This is what i mostly need because visual inspection told me my needles were still good. Thanks for any help and advice. I have an 07 GS500f btw.
What makes you think you need new floats?
The carbs are leaking gas into the airbox which is then draining out of the bottom hose. When i tap the carbs the leaking stops and will start which then stops the leaking for some time till i believe they overflow and then start leaking again. I think this means that the float is stuck in the open position leaking gas pour into the carb bowl while it is off. Or the needle is not sealing it off allowing the same thing to occur. Correct me if i'm wrong im still new to the motorcycling world. This is my first bike.
Then it would be the needles and seat (which come in the carb kits) that you need. The floats - the two lumps of hollow plastic - are OK and they are what move the needle valve up & down. Stick needles mean new needles. The actual floats are OK.
Unless the floats are damaged to me u just need the seating needle(dunno exact name)....looks like circled parts 21.
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Correct. That's the needle and the seat for it. It comes in a complete carb kit or you can order it. Some say OEM is best.
#24 is the actual "float". That you don't need to replace unless really busted up.
Quote from: thebigtuna on October 21, 2013, 03:05:23 PM
The carbs are leaking gas into the airbox which is then draining out of the bottom hose. When i tap the carbs the leaking stops and will start which then stops the leaking for some time till i believe they overflow and then start leaking again. I think this means that the float is stuck in the open position leaking gas pour into the carb bowl while it is off. Or the needle is not sealing it off allowing the same thing to occur. Correct me if i'm wrong im still new to the motorcycling world. This is my first bike.
As long as the floats float, they don't need to be replaced. Sounds like you just need a new float needle and seat. The floats themselves are fine.
Alright thanks for all the help guys! Will be doing that this winter i guess.
As said before, the floats themselves generally don't get damaged. The fuel in the airbox can be a result of worn needle valve (incl seat) or the float level set too high. There is a tongue on the floats that pushes against the needle valve to close it; if you bend it slightly towards the needle, this will lower the float level in the carb bowls.
I know what tongue you are talking about, but if i were to lower the float level in the carb bowls would that cause too little gas to be in the bowl if i did it too much? Also i have another problem not related to the overflowing, at least i don't think it is. I have no way of keeping my bike indoors so it sits outside. Now that it is getting colder i have noticed my bike almost refuses to start in the morning. I do everything as normal to start it except give more choke but when i press the button to start it, it act likes it wants to start for 1 sec then stops completely, no more sound. Does this quite a few times and then eventually will turn over and start. After that it starts right up every time. Any idea what this could be or a way to get around it? Or is it time to just put it up for the winter in my parent's garage.
If the float level is set below the bottom of the jets, then you wouldn't be able to get any fuel into the air stream; for this to happen, the level would have to be ~11+ mm below the bowl seat. Ideally, you wan the level to be right around the bowl seat; a higher setting will allow the fuel to overflow when the bike isn't running and that overflow will run into the airbox and/or flood the engine.
A flooded engine would certainly make it difficult to start until the excess fuel is purged out of the pistons. The symptoms you describe are indicative of a flooded engine.
Your starting sounds like a cold, weak battery. Trying to start it a few times will warm up the battery. Warm battery = more power.
Quote from: thebigtuna on October 21, 2013, 05:31:09 PM
Alright thanks for all the help guys! Will be doing that this winter i guess.
Winter ... really ... OK TBH, its not that easy for a first tier, but seriously you can squeeze it out 1 saturday and ride a few more weeks.
Cool.
Buddha.
Yeah i figured it would be something with the cold battery since it sits outside. The carbs do only overflow once it sits outside overnight and come out in the morning. After i start it and ride a bit it doesn't happen the rest of the day as i can tell. Just when i come out i see it has been leaking. Radodrill, how do i measure that? Do i need a special measuring tool or just something that has mm on it. I have taken the carbs out once and cleaned them so i pretty much know how to replace the things in the carb rebuild kit, but i live about 2 and 1/2 hrs from where the bike will be or a possible place i could work on it so it has to be a winter thing. Want to do a couple other things like new bars and other stuff like that. Thanks for all the help!
Easiest way of measuring the float level is with the seat level (i.e. like it's mounted on the bike) with a u-shaped hose attached to the drain port of the float bowls. Many people do this on the bike with the tank petcock set to prime. I personally have used clamps or a clamping work table to hold the carbs while off the bike as this makes it easy to check the effect of the adjustment without having to install/remove them from the bike.