Sort of an odd question, but does anybody know the diameter of the pin that locates the ignition timing advancer to the crank shaft? I removed my timing cover to find that the previous owner had installed the V&H advancer, but they also managed to elongate the pin hole, and my pin fell out into the dark abyss that is my garage floor.
I need to know the diameter of the pin, so that i can drill the hole deeper, order a longer dowel pin, and install it. Perhaps welding on either side of the pin to fill in the elongated hole. It is more likely that i will use JB weld though, seeing as any added heat could compromise the crank seal.
i think i used a cut down baseboard finnishing nail as a pin, worked for years, just make sure you tighten the bolt correctly, fact its still in the engine on the bench that needs counter bal shaft bearings.
Quote from: Blueknyt on October 28, 2013, 06:40:45 PM
i think i used a cut down baseboard finnishing nail as a pin, worked for years, just make sure you tighten the bolt correctly, fact its still in the engine on the bench that needs counter bal shaft bearings.
Wait. You're serious?
I'd like to avoid repairs like that, especially when local hardware stores carry dowel pins for this purpose. I guess since I'm buying a pin, I can use whatever size I want so long as i drill the hole to match.
Not sure of the diameter and length but I think the pin is made from silver-steel rod.
Something like this.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-Steel-Bar-Rod-5mm-dia-x-333mm-long-/220900029276?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
Quote from: sledge on October 29, 2013, 09:12:41 AM
Not sure of the diameter and length but I think the pin is made from silver-steel rod.
Something like this.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-Steel-Bar-Rod-5mm-dia-x-333mm-long-/220900029276?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
I can neither confirm nor deny this, but what leads you to this conclusion?
I don't see any reason for it to be anything more intricate than just a hardened steel pin. It is under very little to no load (when the bolt it tightened properly,) and is in contact with heat treated steel on either side. Differential metal corrosion is not a very big issue, nor is shear strength.
Quote from: jboogie13 on October 29, 2013, 10:01:10 AM
I can neither confirm nor deny this, but what leads you to this conclusion?
The pin looks to be made from silver steel rod and silver steel rod being precision ground on its circumference lends itself perfectly to the application. If I was going to make a replacement pin it would be my material of choice :dunno_black:
http://www.westyorkssteel.com/tool-steel/silver-steel-bar/
Someone must know the length of the standard pin? I made a note of the diameter but can't find the notes now :icon_sad:- It looked just like a rear chain pin but shorter, maybe 4mm -5mm long. If a chain pin is the right diameter that'd do it, - cheaper than buying a length of silver steel.
My pin dropped out, I didn't lose it, but I don't know if it has broken off in the locating hole in the crank, the hole is only about 3mm deep at most, (but if mine has broken it's a very clean break) I realise the pin is only a locating pin, so doesn't take big loads, my concern is that it looks like it could work it's way back out of the hole because it's pretty short.
I would worry a bit about re-drilling the hole, because it would take very little error to put the ignition timing out enough to do engine damage - (retarded or advanced too much).
I thought the original had the pin welded in the crank and was non removable.
Cool.
Buddha.
From motors I've had and discarded, the pin was pressed in really hard. Some motors had crashes on the right side and the pin got the hole munched up and the pin falls out. It is just a guide pin. No pressure except if the rotor is loose and you are manually cranking the engine. Anything would work. Heck, find a drill bit the right side. JB weld it in and cut to length.
.....and the length: long enough is the correct length. Long enough to go in the slot but not too long that it keeps the rotor from sitting down flush.
Good advice. I was just trying to find out if (some of) my pin has broken off .
No biggie. -it's now running, that's a bonus! :icon_razz:
Oh, and yes, PO -(may he rot in hell) had chucked it down the road... on a regular basis by the look of it!
the pin only sticks out like 1/8 of an inch or so, the nail idea ran fine. the idea is to locate the rotor tab. first time i lost a pin, i made a mark on the case to locate the pin hole, marked the side of the rotor where the hole was and tightend the rotor in place. it stayed like that for hundreds of miles till the bike was knocked over on the right side (no case savers) and the rotor bolt broke. the finnishing nail was very very close in diameter and just cut off the end to needed length. if nothing else, grab one cut it to length then take it where ever to find your dowl. i wouldnt drill the crank and rotor to try to sub somthing bigger. if your angle is off on either or both you change the timeing. what ever you do , do not use a drill bit as a pin, if it breaks and gets stuck in there, you will not be able to get it out very easy and take a chance messing up the crank
Lets be honest about it there are plenty of ways to overcome the problem . Your choice of method is going to depend on if you want something that at least resembles what was there when it left the factory or if you are happy to kludge it and accept the possible consequences :dunno_black:
Discovered that my local hardware store carries both the correct rotor bolt size (M6x60) and a wide variety of pins. I picked up a few different lengths of 3/32 dowel pins, taper pins, and drill bits for less than 10$.
As for the location of the hole, i am not too worried about the drill bit walking, the footprint of the pin is still pretty pronounced, just that the walls have been worked out enough to not be able to hold the pin any longer. I also filled the elongation on the slot of the advancer with weld, and will be reshaping it at work (where all my metalworking tools are.)
Will post pics of both when done.
Success!
The repaired advancing rotor:
(http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m439/black9label13/IMG-20131030-WA0011_zps71c0c06d.jpg) (http://s334.photobucket.com/user/black9label13/media/IMG-20131030-WA0011_zps71c0c06d.jpg.html)
The pin with the JB weld support backing it up (the hole i drilled is deep enough, but the JB weld helps to retain the pin.)
(http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m439/black9label13/2013-10-30175145_zpsa2d0f4a0.jpg) (http://s334.photobucket.com/user/black9label13/media/2013-10-30175145_zpsa2d0f4a0.jpg.html)
After the Weld set up, i started her up and it purrs beautifully (I heard y'all like cats round hurr,) and pulls hard right up to redline! It's amazing what happens when your ignition timing is right!