Hi all, first time poster. I am in the process of getting my gf's 2010 gs500f running. A little background - she bought new and put 160 miles on it and parked it under a tree outside. I am fairly mechanical and race motocross and have several bikes, rmz450s. so i thought i could get this going for her. i removed the tank and fairings, got it pressure washed and fairly clean, Then took airbox off and pulled the carbs. I thought it was tight working on my mx bikes ha!!! anyways i plan on getting new battery, change oil and filter, new plugs, check misc lubes and fluids, and clean chain. plan to take the carbs to shop to have them disassembled and rebuilt. the biggest problem was the gas that had sat in the tank, it was nasty. i am hoping to flush and use ball bearings and remove as much filth and rust as possible. then use inline filters to catch remaining after reassembly. does this sound like i am on the right track to you guys? anythings i have over looked? i was hoping to avoid having to get a new tank, but it was bad, any advise? i definatly see that a shop manul is in my future for reassembly, lots of confusing vacc lines and such. thanks in advance for all advise and direction. i could supply pics if any one needs them. thanks again..........
Racing4cash
Don't be too intimidated about pulling the carbs yourself - a shop will probably charge an arm and a leg to clean them. As far as the gas tank goes, you might try filling it to the top with vinegar first. It is acidic enough that it can work wonders. Just remember to take the petcock off the tank (no point of messing it up while cleaning). Some duct tape and a small plate made of plastic can be used to cover the hole.
There are quite a few people on here that will advise against an in line fuel filter. As the system is gravity fed, a filter can cause the bike to run lean due to fuel starvation. As long as you use fuel stabilizer and keep it oiled up, it should fine.
As far as the tank, I'm not quite sure. I haven't had any major issues with mine, but it only sits idle for at most 3 months during winter. Even then, I still crank it over every now and then. I just can't stay away from it lol. Anyway, if you want to avoid buying a new tank, you could try the electrolysis method, then coat the inside with an anti-rusting agent (I think it's POR-15?).
Edit: Or vinegar. Rich knows more than I do lol.
Haha.......nope. Listen to Jas. He is the "Mr Smarty Pants".
:)
Edit: Regarding the inline filter....... there is already a filter on the petcock. If you clean the tank and want to run an external filter, take the petcock filter off for the first couple tankfuls. And make sure the external filter you get is made for gravity fed engines (like a lawn mower). Be forewarned though: external filters can be clogged pretty easily, which can lead to fuel starvation (usually at higher / sustained rpm's at first).
"Automotive" Inline Filters are bad.....M'Kay
(http://www.memoirsofasingledad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/drugs-are-bad-mkay.jpg)
This Fram Automotive Inline Filter starved my riding lawnmower so bad it couldn't get out of it's own way :nono:
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/fuelstar.jpg)
Quote from: Big Rich on November 10, 2013, 06:10:06 PM
Haha.......nope. Listen to Jas. He is the "Mr Smarty Pants".
:)
:icon_mrgreen: :cheers:
Your GF bought a brand new bike, rode it for less than 200 miles, and left it under a tree for 3 years?
The money that was going to be spent on the carbs would be better spent on a descent 2nd hand tank,NO inline filters.The carbs,etc, do yourself then you'll know it's done properly....ppl here are happy to help anyway possible.
I'm betting your GF would show her gratitude multiple multiple times thereafter. ;)
Quote from: GS500F2004 on November 10, 2013, 10:45:35 PM
Your GF bought a brand new bike, rode it for less than 200 miles, and left it under a tree for 3 years?
Between shoulder surgery, an AC separation, L5 slip, moving out of state, and paying for two houses, I was left with little to find a way to bring her home. Finally moved to a house with a garage, and got a nice raise. I tried to ride her regularly until I got injured and then moved.
The bike is repairable, I hope you are too!
Nothing a little Martial Medicine, chiropractics, and a good orthopedic surgeon hasn't fixed. I'm just glad that I have her home and someone willing to help me out and show me what to do.
Yikes! Hopefully you are back to 100% soon if not already.
Luckily, the Twins site has such a dedicated base of GS owners (I don't even have a 500, but somehow I haven't been kicked off yet!). But there isn't a problem you can run into that somebody here hasn't heard of.
Good luck with the project!
Quote from: empyrean on November 11, 2013, 10:37:05 AM
Quote from: GS500F2004 on November 10, 2013, 10:45:35 PM
Your GF bought a brand new bike, rode it for less than 200 miles, and left it under a tree for 3 years?
Between shoulder surgery, an AC separation, L5 slip, moving out of state, and paying for two houses, I was left with little to find a way to bring her home. Finally moved to a house with a garage, and got a nice raise. I tried to ride her regularly until I got injured and then moved.
Roger. Hope it all goes well enough to be able to ride again.
Pine Sol works great I mean really great
Ohgood - isn't it the original Pinesol? None of the newer kinds? Thought I've heard that somewhere.......
Quote from: Big Rich on November 12, 2013, 07:22:08 AM
Ohgood - isn't it the original Pinesol? None of the newer kinds? Thought I've heard that somewhere.......
Yes, just plain old Pine Sol
Update, I have the tank with about 3 gallons of vinegar and some screws soaking and I shake it hard everytime I walk by it. From what I saw on youtube, it should work well. The only issue I see is that when I empty it out the recessed filler neck will make it dificult for the rust chunks fo come out. But I should be able to make it work, and will flush with another round of fresh vinegar. I started to disassemble the carbs last night and bought a impact screwdriver for the stubborn screws on the bowl, it worked great. However, the jets look nasty. I dont know if they will be salvageable. I will post some pics, but I have a feeling several internal parts will need to be replaced. any suggestions will be appreciated again, thanks.
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Might as well order the jets now because you'll need new ones. Remember you need 2 of each. (pilot/mid-main/main)
If you plan on adding performance mods, go ahead and get the ones you'll need for the config you plan on ending up with.
Quote from: dinkydonuts on November 13, 2013, 10:32:36 AM
Might as well order the jets now because you'll need new ones. Remember you need 2 of each. (pilot/mid-main/main)
If you plan on adding performance mods, go ahead and get the ones you'll need for the config you plan on ending up with.
What he said. And even if you want to keep it stock, I believe that you will get it running better with a different pilot jet. You may want to send Budda a PM, he used to supply jets "for the people"!!
It's rare that carbs need replacement metal parts...99% of the time all that's needed is a GOOD clean,a GOOD clean of everything.
Seals need to be replaced though as they can perish & this goes unnoticed.
The jets sure look baaaad, but since they're brass you should be able to get them cleaned out. The thing is that with how bad those are I can only imagine what all the other passageways look like.
yes i was thinking the same thing. replacing the jets no problem as long as i can get them out. but the passageways will be just as bad. all i have is carb cleaner and compressed air. i was thinking of needing to let them soak in something. still working on it.
Use pine sol.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
i find when it's just the metal parts that brake clean works wonders, brake clean and a toothbrush. now if you dont want to strip it down that much, just go at the carbs with a really firm toothbrush and some water, maybe some cleaning detergent as well, i usually use this stuff my mom sells called meleleuca as it's all natural (commence sales pitch blah blah blah) but basically all natural cleaner = no residue to mess with the carbs (generally speaking). As for the gas tank i can't say much other than no in-line filter, people tend to benfit from bumping up the pilot jet by 5 though.
Since your in MX you've probably heard this term all the time "Remember, lean is mean" and that runs especially true for street bikes.
Jets arent worth cleaning IMO if you buy them individually from your local MX shop (Mikuni small round i believe) they are about 1.50-3.00 each
Not to upset all the hardcore DIYers but you could also find a shop that has an ultrasonic cleaner. Prices vary but it will probably get all the small passages better. You are going to have to order all the o rings, probably the float needle and needle seat anyway. The ultrasonic cleaner may get the jets too, though they look pretty fowl.
Update. Well i just dont think i will be able to salvage this tank.The vinegar did do a good job but It may just be to far gone and it is too difficult to get the solvent out when upside down. I will take it to my friend at the shop and let him check it out. I think that i will be ordering all three jets for each side. i tried to look up budda on here but had no luck. and am wondering if i should just order a jet kit or carb rebuild kit vs ordering the individual parts.
Quote from: racing4cash on November 25, 2013, 11:43:48 AM
Update. Well i just dont think i will be able to salvage this tank.The vinegar did do a good job but It may just be to far gone and it is too difficult to get the solvent out when upside down. I will take it to my friend at the shop and let him check it out. I think that i will be ordering all three jets for each side. i tried to look up budda on here but had no luck. and am wondering if i should just order a jet kit or carb rebuild kit vs ordering the individual parts.
Wouldn't hurt to buy 2 carb rebuild kits, but jets don't come with carb rebuild kits.
I bought this kit from Jets R Us and it was just what the doctor ordered. Note that you won't use all o-rings unless you break down the entire carb.
http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18_5059.html
They also sell jets so save on shipping and order them all at once if you want to go that route.
thanks for all the help everyone. dinky i am going to order from that place tomm. it is the most reasonable prices i have seen. couple of quick questions for u. 1. looking at the back of the carb, the airbox side. in the intake opening there are two small holes close together on the lower side. what are these? on one of my carbs it is pretty clean and i can see up in there and one hole looks to have a flat head jet looking thing in it. the other carb is nasty in there even after the pinesol bath. what do these do and does air have to flow through there? 2. in that rebuild kit it comes with the needle valve and the round insert that sits in the carb that the valve goes into, how do i remove that insert from my carbs? thanks alot. wouldnt have made it this far with out u guys.
Quote from: racing4cash on November 25, 2013, 12:46:03 PM
thanks for all the help everyone. dinky i am going to order from that place tomm. it is the most reasonable prices i have seen. couple of quick questions for u. 1. looking at the back of the carb, the airbox side. in the intake opening there are two small holes close together on the lower side. what are these? on one of my carbs it is pretty clean and i can see up in there and one hole looks to have a flat head jet looking thing in it. the other carb is nasty in there even after the pinesol bath. what do these do and does air have to flow through there? 2. in that rebuild kit it comes with the needle valve and the round insert that sits in the carb that the valve goes into, how do i remove that insert from my carbs? thanks alot. wouldnt have made it this far with out u guys.
Are you talking about the idle adjustment screw and the EPA caps?
In this picture (which seems kind of off), 1 is the idle adjustment screw, and 2 is normally unadjustable since it is an EPA requirement in the US that it not be tamperable. Both are ways to fine tune the air/fuel balance of the carburetor. http://static.flickr.com/19/115125073_13f4fb4888_o.jpg
The large round housing that contains the needle valve is a friction fit into the carburetor body. It has a gasket on the outside that does get sticky and gummy so just use some pliers (you're not going to reuse it anyway) and slowly wiggle it out. Some penetrating oil like WD40 might help if it is really stuck.
no that is not what i was talking about i took some pics of the two holes i was talking about. in one pic u can see how nasty the one carb is and in the other it is cleaner but i dont think there is an opening in there?
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