My friend told me not to go cheap on the chain, so I would like to get a quality chain to put on my GS for Christmas.
Does anyone have a DID chain? If so, what model did you get?
Their website doesn't really say WHY they are better. Any specific reason you want to buy theirs?
I've had a few friends that have had their chains, and they swear by them. I like the idea that I won't have to constantly tighten some of them, too.
My 97 and 02 GSs both came with DID o-ring chains so I've used mostly DID o-ring replacement chains, my brake/chain log:
http://www.gs500.net/gallery/data/500/GSbrakechainlog.jpg
I had 4 Hondas before the GSs 3 of which came with RK brand chains and I used mostly RK chains on them. No good reason for it since I think any name brand o-ring chain will give you about the same service. Brand new they may need an initial adjustment after 1k miles or so and then they go thousands of miles after that with little or no adjustments. When a quality chain needs frequent adjustments it is getting close to replacement time.
Any Japanese chain....Chinese nup.
Just installed Sunstar on my wife's CBR 600 RR. No frills, reasonable cost. I'm happy with it. Sunstar is OEM for most Japanese bikes. I'm racing on the 20 year old sunstar o-ring chain that came with my GS500.
I would not expect a $250 DID X-ring chain to last any longer than a quality conventional o-ring chain. O-ring chains are sealed. Maintenance is mostly about preventing rust, maintaining the seals, and reducing sprocket/roller wear.
BTW: If you're tightening your chains on a frequent basis, there's a good chance you're adjusting the chain too tight. Chain stretch happens as the pins wear down. Over-tension is a major cause of wear. Slack is needed because the chain is pulled tight as the suspension compresses. Over-tight puts huge stress on the rollers. Err on the side of adding a little extra slack.
I bought mine with a DID chain, it doesn't appear to be an o-ring (the rollers don't really look the same as the new o-ring chain I bought) and it was stretched really badly in a couple spots. When I brought the bike home the chain was really loose after I installed the katana rear shock, so I'm guessing since the stock shock was so shot it allowed way too much droop in the rear suspension when riding and the previous owner probably adjusted it with the rear wheel off and didn't account for riding just above the bump stops with someone on it. I always double check the slack with me sitting on it when I adjust chains just to make sure it isn't overly tight with weight on the bike.
Adjust it on the loose side especially if you do a lot of two-up riding. You can actually go a lot looser than you think before a chain is "too loose".
Chain slack is based on suspension travel. Doesn't really matter how loaded the bike is. Either it's too tight, or it's not.
On the GS, when the bike is on the KICKSTAND, not the CENTERSTAND, there should be anywhere from 10-30mm of slack at the most flexible(central) part of the chain.
Hmmm .... Beanbag -check , popcorn -check , refreshing beverage -check!! ...
.... Proceed!
Quote from: Xevamir on December 13, 2013, 06:15:25 AM
My friend told me not to go cheap on the chain, so I would like to get a quality chain to put on my GS for Christmas.
Does anyone have a DID chain? If so, what model did you get?
as long as it's oring, and the user doesn't kill it with aggressive cleaning or chemicals, it will last.
you're installing new sprockers with it, right?
haya mate I have a D.I.D 520 X-RING PRO in gold, 110 links, just be careful you have to get the correct master clip for it because its not an endless chain, or atleast the one i got wasnt, I also got D.I.D front and rear sprockets, cant remember the no. of teeth atm, its 3 am and i just got back form the pub but they were the stock tooth no.
the chain was about $90AUD and the sprockets $60 and $80AUD just ordered them through my local dealer, picked them up a week later, wacked them in and rogers your fathers mother :D
Quote from: ohgood on December 14, 2013, 06:49:48 AM
Quote from: Xevamir on December 13, 2013, 06:15:25 AM
My friend told me not to go cheap on the chain, so I would like to get a quality chain to put on my GS for Christmas.
Does anyone have a DID chain? If so, what model did you get?
as long as it's oring, and the user doesn't kill it with aggressive cleaning or chemicals, it will last.
you're installing new sprockers with it, right?
I'm not sure if the sprockets have ever been replaced, so I had planned to get new sprockets as well.
Definitely replace the sprockets with the chain. If you had a good o-ring (or similar) chain and it required frequent adjustment the most likely culprits are 1) over tightening the chain or 2) running a new chain on worn sprockets. Poor maintenance doesn't help, but o-ring chains are surprisingly tolerant to neglect as long as you don't let them rust or use high-powered solvents that penetrate or damage the o-rings. DID is a good quality brand as is RK. I don't know of a rational to strongly prefer one over the other and the difference between o-ring and x-ring, etc is mostly marketing hype. You're unlikely to see a noticeable difference in performance or service life.
Quote from: burning1 on December 14, 2013, 12:07:03 AM
Chain slack is based on suspension travel. Doesn't really matter how loaded the bike is. Either it's too tight, or it's not.
I agree completely :thumb:
All this `you must do this` and `you must do that` while on `this` stand means nothing unless you are average weight and have the shock set midrange.
I can put 20-30mm slack in my chain like the book says then if my mate who weighs at least 40-50lb more than me sits on it is the chain going to have the same tension???? ......yeah sure it is :D
So on that basis how can one single quoted figure for the required amount of slack suit everyone who is likely to ride the bike?.................answer, it cant. The slack needs to be set to suit the rider.
Set the chain so the slack is there when you are sat on the bike and have the shock set where you favour it. It doesn't matter how loose it is while parked up, its how tight it is in use that is important :thumb:
Kinda reminds me of that old joke........
I have not worn a chain out in 25 years........................but I have worn out 100 sets of adjusters :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
I'm just afraid that I'll buy a sub-par chain and then pay the price for it later. I just want something good. :icon_sad:
DID
Regina
Renthol
Renold
RK
Sunstar
Izumi........They have all been around for years and all have sold millions of lengths. if they were crap they would have earned a reputation and died a death.
Stick with a known and recognised brand, the differences between them are negligible. Chain life depends as much on how they are cared for than what the name on the box is.
As for O and X rings.....they both do the same thing :dunno_black:
One tip....buy it from a reputable source, there are a lot of fakes and counterfeits out there.
DID claims a decrease in drag and a slight improvement in durability with the X-Ring. For my part, the X-Ring chain I installed on my first street bike didn't last any longer than the o-ring chain it replaced.
Quote from: burning1 on December 16, 2013, 10:51:47 AM
DID claims a decrease in drag and a slight improvement in durability with the X-Ring.
Should be good for another 10mph on the top end and 0.5sec off the standing start then :thumb:
I love hype like this........as if the average GS5 rider is going to notice :D
You may as well spend 15 mins sitting on the bog before taking the bike out, the half-lb weight saving will have more of an effect :D :D :D
Pretty much what you said.
For reduced weight/friction, a few of the guys that race end up installing 428 non o-ring chains. More power, but you've got to lube them every time you take them out. Not suitable for street use.
Thank you for all of the advice, everyone. Now I just need to figure out what size chain that I need to get. :embarassed:
Quote from: Xevamir on December 18, 2013, 07:44:42 AM
Thank you for all of the advice, everyone. Now I just need to figure out what size chain that I need to get. :embarassed:
520 series, 110 links.
Quote from: sledge on December 16, 2013, 08:33:39 AM
All this `you must do this` and `you must do that` while on `this` stand means nothing unless you are average weight and have the shock set midrange.
I can put 20-30mm slack in my chain like the book says then if my mate who weighs at least 40-50lb more than me sits on it is the chain going to have the same tension???? ......yeah sure it is :D
So on that basis how can one single quoted figure for the required amount of slack suit everyone who is likely to ride the bike?.................answer, it cant. The slack needs to be set to suit the rider.
Set the chain so the slack is there when you are sat on the bike and have the shock set where you favour it. It doesn't matter how loose it is while parked up, its how tight it is in use that is important :thumb:
Maybe I'm misunderstanding your comment, but I'd assume the specified chain slack is such that it won't be over tight throughout the suspension's range of travel. The average position of the suspension would vary according to rider weight, but the range of travel doesn't. It would simply take less of a bump to bottom out with a heavy rider.
You aren't misunderstanding the comment; the original comment is flat-out wrong.
You need to have sufficient slack in the chain that the chain won't bind when the suspension bottoms out, but not so much slack that the chain grinds on the swingarm or comes off a sprocket when the suspension tops out.
These are the only real considerations for chain slack. You do not need to make any corrections to the OEM guidelines unless you're drag racing your GS, or you've significantly modified the suspension geometry.
Bless you, my friend.
Quote from: dinkydonuts on December 18, 2013, 08:14:47 AM
Quote from: Xevamir on December 18, 2013, 07:44:42 AM
Thank you for all of the advice, everyone. Now I just need to figure out what size chain that I need to get. :embarassed:
520 series, 110 links.