Hey team, my name's Jon from Perth Western Australia and I recently purchased my first ever motorcycle, a black 97 GS500E. I picked it up cheap as it's currently not road-registered and have been slowly preparing it to pass an inspection.
It's in pretty good condition overall, just a few minor things, most of which should be easy.
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9880/yvio.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/yvio.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
I'm not a mechanic or even close but have tinkered plenty with cars in the past, am usually able to summon good help and was able to manage an engine swap on my car, all bar the wiring which I happily left up to the professionals.
I don't have my motorcycle license yet, currently taking lessons. So the aim is to have the GS registered at around the same time I get my license! Then I can start modifying the thing, excited for that.
Goodonya Jon, how does it run? -Looks pretty clean and original from here. You'll get plenty of help and advice on this forum, so enjoy.
Jools
Welcome! Be interesting to read what you do with it and your experiences! Keep posting!
Hey like mine...
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Seemed to run really well when I first got it, but the previous owner switched it to what he thought was reserve when bringing it to my house, was actually set to prime and that's how it sat for a good couple weeks at my house. There must be a carb issue because that then caused them to overflow with fuel. I had fuel going into the crank case and coming out the ignition rotor cover at the bottom and out the breather hose at the top of the carbs.
I found what seemed to be the answer in another thread that listed the exact same symptoms and cause, most likely stuck carb float(s).
I pulled the float bowls off the carbs and gave the whole float mechanism a good clean, made sure it was moving freely and adjusted the float height as per what it says in my Haynes manual (not 100% sure if I did the float height correctly, found the manual to be a little vague on that.) I drained the contaminated oil and put it all back together, set the bike to prime to test (If carbs functioning correctly shouldn't be a problem correct me if I'm wrong) but it still seems to be doing it, fuel coming out of the carb breather junction hose.
The current thing I'm struggling with is replacing the fork seals. I made a mistake in the order of things and removed the springs from the tubes before loosening the hex bolt on the bottom of the sliders. I need to put the springs back in there in order to put enough pressure on the inside of the fork so the whole thing doesn't just spin where I turn the bolt. Problem is however, one of the tubes has retracted down into the slider and won't come out, stuck hard!!
You might be able to release the allen screw (I assume it's not a hex bolt) by using a length of wooden dowel to press down on the top of the damper to stop it spinning while unscrewing the allen screw. 4 hand job probably. An air tool or impact driver often will 'crack' the thing loose where turning an allen key may just spin the damper.
After having said that, I go outside and pull on the tube and it came straight up haha, so now the springs and spacers are back and I'll be able to get the allen screw out by compressing the forks when I can get a seconds person to help.
Mm my seals gone too leaking oil on the shaft..might be time for a sonic upgrade for me if im going to fix it...
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Yeah I'm gonna put spacers in the forks while I'm in there, stiffen that front end up a bit.
Here's where I got my replacement seals on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290909944239?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Here is a quick photoshop mock-up of how I'd like the GS to look eventually. It'll involve painting the wheels white, shortening rear indicator stalks and minimalizing the rear fender, installing flat or drag handlebars with bar-end mirrors which will more likely be round, those are just the stock mirrors placed at bar's end haha. The tank could do with a respray so I'll re-decal that after painting. There'll also be an aftermarket exhaust (not pictured). I love sporty 80's vehicle styling, so that's the governing mentality I have towards modifying the bike.
(http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/5095/mt7m.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/mt7m.jpg/)
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Nice vision
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Just a word of warning on those Pyramid Parts oil seals. I recently replaced fork seals on a CX Honda, and an RZ Yamaha using Pyramid seals. In both cases they leaked even though the installation was 'by the book'.
The rubber used for the seals seemed hard and 'plasticy'. I don't want to badmouth Pyramid Parts, but I have to put it out there.
Nice bike! I've got one the same year, but green, and the old school OEM clip on bars.
Highly recommend sonic upgrade - I replaced the stock springs with 0.85 sonics (on advice from Sonic themselves - I'm 6' 2" and a lightweight 75kg) and the bike handles completely differently - no more diving under braking!
Also upgraded to R6 shock on the rear.
Good luck with your license too
Thanks for all the advice!
Jools - noted! Bit of a worry that, might just install them and see how we go. If they turn out to be no good then I'll likely replace them with another brand and get some sonics in there at the same time.
So the good news is my GS started up today for the first time in about 6 months, ran beautifully on the driveway too. The bad news is it wants to idle at 6000rpm, is that likely to be throttle cable adjustment?
Throttle cable or air leak. Do the rpms rise when you pull in the clutch? If so, its probably throttle, if not probably an air leak. Most common place for air leak is at the carb boots.
- Bboy
Your vision seems oddly familiar
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w549/Jaco20sikkness/IMG_20130913_142258_zps1d1b5e11.jpg)
:dunno_black:
Hey dude my front suspension dived like a mutha mate under my 125kg weight. I put 20w new oil and rebuilt the forks with new seals and walaa! No more diving but soft enough to be comfortable
Sent from The Shire
@ Jacob - I haven't seen that one before but yeah, almost spot on, that bike is gorgeous!
I didn't check what happens with the clutch yet but will do. I also wouldn't rule out an air leak at the carb boots as I found them to be a massive bastard to get together, wouldn't surprise me in the least if the was a gap somewhere.
Thanks dudes.
Oh and Golly I had the seals replaced in my forks and I've got some spacers in there, plus I only weight 75kg so should be pretty alright.
Lol lucky bugger....mind u with a 15t front sprocket mine is quick enough for my learner arse.
Sent from The Shire
my 5th gs I went as low as 14t up front. was interesting. people did NOT know what it was lol.
Very Cool. I've always liked the look of "all black". :thumb: I finally decided on Maroon but everything else I own is black., Love it.
Hmm, so I reckon I'd have eliminated any air leaks on the carb boots, still acting the same though. revs do not rise when I pull the clutch in. Might be a vacuum hose i mistook for a breather somewhere or something.
Which suburb you in Suggy...might be able to meet up next week for a look..might be able to help...no expert but shaZam! I've learned heaps from this forum and errors along the way. Mine is finally playing the game now lol
Sent from The Shire
Quote from: Suggy on December 19, 2013, 08:07:02 PM
Hey team, my name's Jon from Perth Western Australia and I recently purchased my first ever motorcycle, a black 97 GS500E. I picked it up cheap as it's currently not road-registered and have been slowly preparing it to pass an inspection.
It's in pretty good condition overall, just a few minor things, most of which should be easy.
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9880/yvio.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/yvio.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
I'm not a mechanic or even close but have tinkered plenty with cars in the past, am usually able to summon good help and was able to manage an engine swap on my car, all bar the wiring which I happily left up to the professionals.
I don't have my motorcycle license yet, currently taking lessons. So the aim is to have the GS registered at around the same time I get my license! Then I can start modifying the thing, excited for that.
Is that big shiny "S" standard on aussie GS's. In the US that went on SV's in the 00's. Gorgeous if you ask me.
Cool.
Buddha.
:icon_eek: ... Lol .. Had to go out to the shed to check.... My '06 F has the S on the tank :icon_mrgreen: ... It does look good!
The s on the tank. Yeah they're standard on all Suzuki motorcycles. My gixxer and gs both have them. They're both the same as well.
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In Australia they are at least
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SO! I've been lazy on this but the plan is to get this bike fiiiinally roadworthied and registered next weekend, after that, let the good times roll.
However right now I can't even get it to start. The battery was just charged and powers all the lights nice and bright, however when I press the ignition button - nothing not even one kick.
This battery has been fairly neglected, long periods of sitting in the bike then charged up again.
I've not changed anything that would effect this since it last kicked over fine. I've also tried the cutoff switch in both possitions incase it was wired backwards or something.
Is it possible a weakened battery would run the lights but not even give me a single turnover of ignition?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts,
Suggy
Sounds more like a stuck starter relay.
Alright, I'll pull out the workshop manual and have a look at what that entails tonight.
With the starter motor disconnected, I get a click from the starter relay when I turn the key to the ON position, but NOT when I hit the starter switch.
So that would implicate a fault with either the starter switch or the kill switch maybe?
I'm about to have a look at them now.
... see also. .. clutch safety switch/wiring & sidestand switch/wiring. ...
Quote from: Janx101 on July 21, 2015, 04:22:05 AM
... see also. .. clutch safety switch/wiring & sidestand switch/wiring. ...
Yep, that might be next. I did actually replace the clutch lever since the last time I had the thing start, so that would make sense. However, that procedure doesn't really interfere with the clutch switch so I dunno what i could've done, I'll be checking it out none the less, wish I had a multimeter :/
I no longer suspect the starter or kill switches, I pulled them apart just now and it all looked fine in there.
My workshop manual makes a point that the starter relay should click when the starter button is pressed - that's not happening. It IS clicking when I switch the ignition on though, big difference?
Progress!
I took the new clutch lever back off (thanx Janx) to have a look at the switch. I think the greasy little switch button wasn't positioned correctly, something my manual mentions nothing of the importance of. I looked at where it should sit by the grease marks on the old lever and put the new one back in with particular care.
I now get the starter clicking and kicking independent of where the clutch is (she's in neutral and side stand is up, does that sound right?)
I think I may have weakened the battery throughout the testing as it only gives a weak starter turn and the lights die while that happens, not nearly enough to get it to start so I've got it back on the charger. Still fear it may need replacing though.
Sort of right... progress at least! .... in neutral the bike 'should' crank regardless of stand position.... but. ... the bike 'should only' crank with the clutch held in! ...
Officially anyway. .. there are those that have bridged the clutch switch on purpose so they get your same situation. ..
the wisdom of this is often vigorously discussed! ;)
Quote from: Janx101 on July 21, 2015, 11:13:57 AM
Sort of right... progress at least! .... in neutral the bike 'should' crank regardless of stand position.... but. ... the bike 'should only' crank with the clutch held in! ...
Officially anyway. .. there are those that have bridged the clutch switch on purpose so they get your same situation. ..
the wisdom of this is often vigorously discussed! ;)
Yeeeah, I'd certainly prefer the safety of the switch's functionality. That'll be something to look at in future but at this stage I'm just trying to make sure it runs for roadworthy inspection on Saturday morning.
They don't check safety switch function?
Quote from: Janx101 on July 21, 2015, 08:27:01 PM
They don't check safety switch function?
People I've spoken to hear don't seem to think it'll be an issue. But anyway, that's beside the point because the bike didn't want to start in time to make the inspection anyway. I think the only way that safety switch was working is shorting out, now it's stopped working entirely so I've ordered a replacement switch and postponed the inspection. I think other than that we're good. I taped together the two connectors for the switch and she started and ran flawlessly :)
It's certainly been a while since I posted, but i return with good news. My GS passed roadworthy check on Saturday and I'm going to get it registered after work today! :woohoo: :cheers:
(http://img.pandawhale.com/54546-Cheers-Toast-gif-OLQT.gif)
:thumb: :cool:
Cheers dudes! It's been absolutely fantastic having it on the road, really loving the bike.
The only worry I have is that the engine is fairly noisy. I'd best describe the noise at clunking and/or chattering - It runs and performs fine for now, just the normal sort of running noise but louder than it really should be. The guy who did my roadworthy check commented on it too.
I'm wondering what I should be checking and possibly replacing. I'm prepared to pull the engine out and do a bit of an overhaul but if there's anything I can check without removing the engine I'll start there.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Here's a photo of what she's currently looking like. Different from the original vision image I posted, I've decided to keep it more like I bought it but with a few little tweaks here and there. I've got some nice flat handlebars to go on soon.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img907/4923/qNJou5.jpg)
:thumb:
Noise - mostly top end, clacking cams = end clearance is too high - mostly cant fix it till it becomes very very very high - like 1 mm ... it will make a racket @ .3mm or less. And wear over 100k miles to that 1mm mark when you can shim it.
You also get a ton of valve noise, on valves that are set right.
Most of us don't feel right when we're on a bike that doesn't make these 2 noises.
Cool.
Buddha.
Ah ok, it's probably fine then haha. This morning it started idling at about 3000, out of nowhere and ran a little rough at low rpm, I'm really hoping it goes back to normal on the ride home because I'm a little busy to be playing mechanic at the moment!
I did chuck some nice flat 'drag bars' on it since that last photo, looks sweet and feels sportier to ride.
looks good. I actually want TALLER bars on mine. currently a little further back then stock, by like .5 of an inch... I wanted 4 inches originally..
Yeah it all depends on your riding position I guess, I like to ride more like a sports bike so mine work well for me.
I worked out my idle problem, choke was stuck on. looks like I might need a new choke cable! I can go without till winter comes.