Within last few months I've acquired an '05 GS500 (first bike) and I'm slowly starting to get around to maintenance and aesthetics items.
I've also accumulated a few questions as I was poking around the web:
1) Repair manual: what is the recommended repair manual for this bike? I was able to find a supplementary service manual from suzuki but not the part it was supplementing.
2) Spark plugs - they are shown to be replaced every 12K mi and I've noticed a few comments about gapping - can these be replaced with platinum/iridium type so I wouldn't have to worry about these for next 60-100K ;)
3) Fuel line / brake hose - noted to be replaced every 4 years - has anyone done that at this interval and how critical is this really? For the brakes - would it be worth doing steel-braided at some point - is there a difference for this bike?
4) Rear shock adjustment - can't seem to find a weight chart for the preload of the rear shock
5) Forks - if changed, would progressive spring be better than just a stiffer spring?
6) Headers - at this point it's an aesthetics item (although I do want to stop the rust) but the headers show quite a bit of rust - is there a heat-resistant paint or wrap that could take care of this? Has anyone taken their headers off and powder-coated them? Also, the bolts seem to be rusted - are there non-rusting alternatives available?
7) Online stores - which online stores are worth checking out?
Got lots more but these should get me started...
Manual: I prefer Haynes. However Haynes, Suzuki and Clymer are all good. I find Haynes to be more of instructions on howto doonething at a time - easier to follow. Clymer is more of a "take everything apart" and "reassemble in reverse order".
Plugs: All come pre-gapped but never hurts to check. Iridium are a little better.
Fuel lines: Good to replace the old hard lines with new. I use Motion Pro gray line. When going from tank to petcock, I make them a few inches longer so it is easier to lift the tank and not stress the lines. See pix of my bikes and you'll see the longer fuel lines.
Brake lines: Stainless braided is better. Firmer brakes. When you change brake fluid, go ahead and change the lines, too.
Rear Shock: Stock is fine for most people. It comes in middle setting. Make stiffer if heavy or you want it stiffer. If you do change therear shock for something else, you must do the front springs first because the front is too soft.
Front Springs: Progressive or Sonics - meh. I have both on my bikes and they feel the same. Go Sonics - Rich of Sonic is a member so support him. The trapped air in the shocks acts progressive so no need for progressives anyway (some will argue, we all have our opinions).
Headers: I say clean off the rust with a Scotch scratchy pad and apply Rutland Stove Polish. You can do that without removing them. Most people here in West Seattle now do that. You can touch it up anytime with a rag and more stove polish. Get it in the tube.
sweet, thanks for the comprehensive answer.
FYI: It helps to have your location in your profile. Then if you need parts or help, there may be a member near you.
Places to order:
Partzilla.com
ebay (my favorite seller of used parts is pinwall cycle)
revzilla.com
And places like these may say "in stock" which only means they can get it and it is not on the shelf for immediate shipping:
bike bandit
Ron Ayres
And NEVER forget your local dealer. Sure maybe you pay 10% more, but you get personal service, the right part, advice and if you don't support your local dealer soon you may not have a local dealer.
Tires: Sure you can get discounts on-line. If you want to mount and balance them yourself that's good. If you want the dealer to mount them, they charge you. I buy tires from my dealer when on sale and get free mounting & balancing and disposal of the old tire. To me that's a better deal and the dealer will stand behind their work.
Most all small stuff I order from my dealer. Not worth the on-line issues and waiting just to save a quarter.
If you need the actual factory service manual, pm me you email and ill shoot you the copy i have.
In October I sanded my pipes and sprayed them with VHT Flame Proof Satin Clear. That's certainly not a terribly long sample time, but I rode it a few days after a snow storm and then wrapped it up for few weeks without making sure the salt was all washed off. If I see any new brown in the pipes, I'll let you know.
It looks good, too. It gives bare pipes a nice sheen. Several colors are available, if you so desire. Easily procurable at Auto Zone.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/
Quote from: AK Baller on December 28, 2013, 12:17:22 AM
3) Fuel line / brake hose - noted to be replaced every 4 years - has anyone done that at this interval and how critical is this really? For the brakes - would it be worth doing steel-braided at some point - is there a difference for this bike?
I can't help you with most of these things, but I removed the tank yesterday to clean the airfilter, and noticed my fuel lines are all starting to show signs of weathering and cracking. When I put the tank back on, i noticed a pinhole leak near the tank petcock. I probably was too rough with the fuel lines, but they all need replacing, too aged. This is on an 09, so the 4 year change seems spot on.
I never replaced fuel lines or brake hoses on my 97 GS that I put 80k miles on or on my current 02 GS that has 100k miles on it so far. If they had needed changed I would have changed them.
The Owners Manual for the 97 GS that I bought new called for plug changes at 7500 mile intervals but I had one of the original plugs cut out at high rpm with only 7k on it so I've changed them at about 6k miles ever since on both GSs. Used only DPR8EA9 stock plugs on both bikes until the last change at 97k miles on the 02 when I went one step hotter to DPR7EA9. Both plugs came out black, they were all a nice color until then.
Sweet, thanks for all the info everyone, will probably replace easy parts just in case and just see if any of the lines are cracked and what not. I'll check my local dealers for parts... and the vht heat paint looks pretty good... and 100K on a bike - awesome.
Talking about fuel lines ,i got a bit of black rubber in the mid jet on the left cylinder which can only come from inside the fuel line. As you take the hoses on or off the tank,there is a sharp lip on both take off pipes from the tank ,also found that the fuel lines go hard and brittle after 3 years will be changing to clear lines next time i have to remove the tank.Good tip after fitting fuel lines onto tank run 2 carburettor bowls of fuel into a container and check for rubber specks you need to be on prime when you do this .