I'm a new rider, took the MSF course, purchased a 2002 Yamaha V Star Custom in October, found a great deal on a 2000GS500e a few days ago and before you knew it-- I now have two bikes that I don't know how to ride!
(To be fair the Yamaha is now my girlfriends as she also took the MSF course and passed it with a higher score than I did. -at any rate they're both in the same garage-)
So, I bought the bike without getting a real good look at it because:
A- I have no idea what I'm looking for other than rust, strange sounds, smoke and dents.
B- It was 8F degrees with snow on the ground so I couldn't see it running (wompwomp)
C- Even if I could see it running I wouldn't know what to feel for
So, without further adieu I have some questions:
A huge HOLE on the side of the exhaust can which looks horrendous but apparently doesn't effect anything?- does it effect anything? Should I repair this or get a replacement?
Rust on the chain- obviously I'm going to get rid of the rust ASAP but should I replace the chain? is it difficult to do?
Generally--- what should I check for before riding this to know that I have a safe ride.
inb4: you shouldn't have bought this without knowing- I got this amazing bike for peanuts, no big loss if it is complete garbage.
Get a factory service manual and go over everything......yes, everything in the "maintenance" section. Brakes, oil, chain and sprockets, etc, etc have probably all been neglected / abused. Where are you from? There might be somebody nearby to help.
Oh yeah - welcome to the site, and post pictures. They are worth a 1000 words.
Quote from: Big Rich on January 06, 2014, 07:25:23 PM
Get a factory service manual and go over everything......yes, everything in the "maintenance" section. Brakes, oil, chain and sprockets, etc, etc have probably all been neglected / abused. Where are you from? There might be somebody nearby to help.
Oh yeah - welcome to the site, and post pictures. They are worth a 1000 words.
Thanks for the response, the bike is currently in storage until the weather gets at least 50F so no pictures until then.
I'm in New Jersey! (Lyndhurst) less than a mile away from the motorcycle mall in Belleville
actually, here are a few pics from the original ad
(http://images.craigslist.org/00y0y_e51Rggvqgm7_600x450.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/00b0b_2WsfZ2jJJ52_600x450.jpg)
Welcome to ze Nüthaus my friend. any questions, ask away. yes get the Mexican friend. manual. and the Russian friend. KGB ( known good battery) check oil, ( per specs and instructions) chain tension, tire pressure, tread depth, fluid levels, etc. as it is cold now, gives you time to get her roadready for warmer temps.
Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on January 06, 2014, 07:55:27 PM
Welcome to ze Nüthaus my friend. any questions, ask away. yes get the Mexican friend. manual. and the Russian friend. KGB ( known good battery) check oil, ( per specs and instructions) chain tension, tire pressure, tread depth, fluid levels, etc. as it is cold now, gives you time to get her roadready for warmer temps.
Yeah, that was my plan- get the bike ready now for when the time does come around! Is there a free manual online or do I pay the 5 dollars for the pdf and print it at staples?- So far I can't find a free version. :dunno_black:
For a copy of the Owners Manual - not service manual, owners manual - go to the Wiki http://wiki.gstwins.com/ and look under Maintenance / How To Books
Any "Service Manual" you find online will be an illegal copy. You won't find any links to one from here.
As for checking...
Yeah chain. Give it a clean if you think it will help. But it might be a waste of time. Toss in a photo of the chain and rear sprocket and we'll let you know.
IMO, all new bike purchases should be followed with an oil and filter change - BUT BE WARNED - if you change the filter you need to be Very Careful with the filter-cover bolts. Too much tightening and Whoopsy snappy.
Have a look at the front forks. Where they push in is a black ring. Is their oil seeping from the fork tube down and onto and over that ring - usually at the rear. Also examine the small dark grime ring which occurs on the fork. It is Overly oily and the forks all oily themselves?
Check the date of the tire. Oh look.... I'm not going to retype all this from a day or two ago. Here, for a start read this from another thread about things to look for when Buying a bike http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=66340.msg797741#msg797741
I'm sure others will chime in anyway with storage requirements et al.
Did the seller have a center stand to go with it?
don't we have a linkie to the service manual; here at some location, clicks from this results in site getting a bit of it?, I know it used to, don't know if it still does. but yes chain mainly. if you strip the filth off of it, ( if any) relube immediately
I occasionally eat lunch in the Arlington diner. 8)
Haven't been to the "new" motorcycle mall since they moved it into the car dealership building.
The old shop was over-packed with bikes. Not even enough room to walk!
My 2007 GS500F was purchased from there bran-new as a left-over model in late 2008.
Welcome to the best GS500 forum on the planet. This crew will get you up and running fast!
-Ej-
Quote from: mister on January 06, 2014, 08:25:14 PM
For a copy of the Owners Manual - not service manual, owners manual - go to the Wiki http://wiki.gstwins.com/ and look under Maintenance / How To Books
Any "Service Manual" you find online will be an illegal copy. You won't find any links to one from here.
As for checking...
Yeah chain. Give it a clean if you think it will help. But it might be a waste of time. Toss in a photo of the chain and rear sprocket and we'll let you know.
IMO, all new bike purchases should be followed with an oil and filter change - BUT BE WARNED - if you change the filter you need to be Very Careful with the filter-cover bolts. Too much tightening and Whoopsy snappy.
Have a look at the front forks. Where they push in is a black ring. Is their oil seeping from the fork tube down and onto and over that ring - usually at the rear. Also examine the small dark grime ring which occurs on the fork. It is Overly oily and the forks all oily themselves?
Check the date of the tire. Oh look.... I'm not going to retype all this from a day or two ago. Here, for a start read this from another thread about things to look for when Buying a bike http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=66340.msg797741#msg797741
I'm sure others will chime in anyway with storage requirements et al.
Did the seller have a center stand to go with it?
I didn't realize the service manual had to be bought, lol- but i'll make sure I get it the legal way. Thanks for linking to your OP about new bikes, it is really appreciated. I want to do as much preventative maintenance as possible, I can buy new filter cover bolts I assume? (before I go overboard with the tightening)
No center stand, he had it propped up on a few 2x4s.
Quote from: Electrojake on January 06, 2014, 10:39:24 PM
I occasionally eat lunch in the Arlington diner. 8)
Haven't been to the "new" motorcycle mall since they moved it into the car dealership building.
The old shop was over-packed with bikes. Not even enough room to walk!
My 2007 GS500F was purchased from there bran-new as a left-over model in late 2008.
Welcome to the best GS500 forum on the planet. This crew will get you up and running fast!
-Ej-
Cool 8) The motorcycle mall is nice but way too pricey (15 dollars for an OEM oil filter :icon_eek: ??), I really like the cycle exchange in andover though, it's where i got my yamaha for a great price.
So far I can tell that this is a cool forum, seems pretty active, which is nice as most forums i've come across move at a snails pace.
I'm off to work for the day in this 6F weather. Thanks for all the replies, I'll check back in when I can get some good pictures.
So, I'm trying to find an exhaust that fits the machine, I'm looking at the wiki but everything that is a direct fit is out of stock at bikebandit.com (the vance and hines supersport exhaust and the jardine) can someone link me directly to an exhaust system that will fit this? I want something under 400$ and with a nice throaty sound. I don't own any machinery to fashion a new piece and I'm not too sure that the dealership by me will be reasonable in pricing when it comes to custom fit exhausts.
A number of Vance & Hines full systems are on eBay new for $300-350.
There are also slip-ons from Yoshimura, Delkevic, etc for <$300; these simply require that the stock pipe be cut after the 2 into 1
Keep in mind that ANY exhaust for the GS500 from 1989-today will fit. You can ignore the year for the GS500. They all fit the same.
I quite like the sound of the Screaming Demon system that Twisted has on his GS.
Quote from: mister on January 07, 2014, 10:30:56 PM
I quite like the sound of the Screaming Demon system that Twisted has on his GS.
I second the screaming demon.
Just fitted one to my 05GSF. It was really simple (20 minute job). My first time properly working on my bike (rejet, filters, repaint and some other things) and the exhaust was really easy. Sounds great, looks great, didn't dent the bank.
Thanks for the replies, it looks like I'm going to need the full system rather than just a slip on as what I've got is in extremely poor condition. The screaming demons are 600 dollars (unless i'm looking at the wrong site) which is a bit over my price range (it wouldn't of been if i was only going to fix that exhaust, but i do have to do a major overhaul it seems) i'm also going to have to get new tires, a chain, cables- etc I wanted to deal with what seems like the biggest issues first then work my way down.
Big congrats on getting the MSF course done and being engaged with the aspects of maintenance and safety already, first big step!
As to your questions, it would be hard to know what to work on until you've been riding it, but in short:
1) Inspect the oil level and colour. Best best is to change the oil and filter
2) Inspect your chain and sprockets, clean it and keep it lubed up even in storage.
3) Inspect the electricals, do the high-beam lights work? Do the indicators work?
4) Put the bike on the centre stand and turn the steering around evenly and slowly, does it catch anywhere? Is it smooth? If the turning is not smooth you may need some service for the steering head bearings.
5) Inspect the front fork seals, is it damaged, is anything leaking? Is it sealing out the dust nicely?
As for the running of the bike, it would be hard to describe to you what to look for as you haven't ridden yet. But if there is something wrong you will most likely feel it. After about 6000rpm, the bike will become more powerful and in first gear the throttle will be a bit more responsive. The GS500's power is nothing to write home about, but as a first timer just watch out.
If the exhaust is damaged, change it out to something of your choice. If it's not, I wouldn't worrying about modifying things, first get used to riding before dropping $$$, rather use it to invest in quality gear. Also remember, changing out the exhaust and such will require a rejet of the carburettors, whilst you're at it you might as well change the air filter. There's a good page in the wiki about what jet sizes you will need.
This is a great bike to learn on, service and modify! I no longer have my GS500F as I have upgraded to a CBR600RR, but I have nothing but fond memories of it! Good luck!
This is your first bike ? Before you spend $600 on an aftermarket exhaust only to fall over on it and damage it, try a used stock exhaust. Depending on where you are they should be plentiful and cheap.
Also, systems like the V&H are single-wall steel, so the paint will burn off in a season or two and then the uncoated steel will turn a fabulous rusty brown color.
Try taking it over to your MSF provider ~ maybe they will give it a quick look over. You could also consider taking it for a proper mechanical inspection.
Quote from: dkidd2004 on January 08, 2014, 04:51:48 AM
Quote from: mister on January 07, 2014, 10:30:56 PM
I quite like the sound of the Screaming Demon system that Twisted has on his GS.
I second the screaming demon.
Just fitted one to my 05GSF. It was really simple (20 minute job). My first time properly working on my bike (rejet, filters, repaint and some other things) and the exhaust was really easy. Sounds great, looks great, didn't dent the bank.
Which one did you put on? The longer one, or the shorty? Got a pic to share?
Quote from: SAFE-T on January 08, 2014, 08:58:55 AM
Try taking it over to your MSF provider ~ maybe they will give it a quick look over. You could also consider taking it for a proper mechanical inspection.
This is the most obvious and practical advice!- I don't know why I overlooked this for some reason, lol! Thanks.
Even if the bike is a complete waste in its current form, I still would like to rebuild it and make it something amazing. I feel like the GS500e is such an understated and undervalued bike that it definitely deserves a second chance, which is why I would like to put some money into it.
Yep - these are fun bikes. Super easy to work on.
Plenty of parts available.
Heck, here in West Seattle we have now built 3 GS500's from spare parts! One we did in 2 weekends. We swap motors now - with practice - in minutes. We swap and change out everything with ease.
So go at it - if the bike is a wreck, you can rebuild it.
Most important to change out are wheels, brakes and chain & sprockets. Your drive train is critical to safe riding. Exhausts can be swapped anytime you want in just minutes.
Instead of changing brake pads and rebuilding the calipers, buy used ones off of newer bikes with low mileage and good pads. usually under $20. Check pinwall cycle on ebay. They are one of my favorite places for spare parts.
Most parts are the same over all the years. That means when swapping parts, you can use newer parts rather than trying to find old parts for your year of bike. In out bike builds, each bike has parts from 1989 through 2009 - we pick the best parts when building a bike.
If you have questions on compatibility, just ask. If you need parts, post a want-to-buy as there are a few of us that are parts whores.
Adidasguy, I've checked out your youtube videos, you seem like such a cool dude :thumb: do you have any advice for a specific tool kit to get for working on the bike? I want to have all the tools I need before really digging in to find out later that I don't have everything I need.
Most important tools are a good metric socket wrench set and metric Allen wrench set
Three questions...
1.) You looking for a stock GS500 exhaust Anon?
2.) Why? :dunno_black:
3.) Will my stock (dinged-up) 2007 F bike exhaust fit an old E bike?
Quote from: Electrojake on January 08, 2014, 04:32:20 PM3.) Will my stock (dinged-up) 2007 F bike exhaust fit an old E bike?
Fitment of the exhausts is the same for all model years; only difference is the F model had ports for the PAIR system to tie in. BTW, new thestock F exhaust is ~$1200, while the pre-2000 stock exhaust is ~$600
Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric
Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric Metric
A good socket,rachet set down to 8mm
A good wrench set 8mm to at least 21mm
Not bad idea to have ratchet box wrenches with pivoting heads
A good allen wrench set with ball ends
Flat screwdrivers which have hollow ground tips
JIS screwdrivers (NEVER EVER have USA phillips screwdrivers around your bike!)
Assorted small screwdrivers for tiny stuff
Magnet on a stick
Motionpro has a finger glove with a magnet in it. Very handy.
Rubber mallet (though we often use a bowling pin)
Torque wrench - maybe 2. One big for engine heads and axles and a smaller one for engine case bots and oil cover bolts. Though with experience, many of those you will learn to torque by feel.
A couple funnels
Pans to put stuff in while working (I wash plastic containers from the deli - they're free when you buy food)
LOTS of rubber gloves and shop towels. Also a pack of polishing towels (Coscto has packs of them)
Those blue shop towels on a roll.
Threadlock (blue, not red).
Volt meter - MANDATORY for all electrical work.
Haynes, Clymer or Suzuki manual: Also MANDATORY!
A couple different pliers, including a needle nose one. And a long one.
10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm are very common sizes. Often you will need 2 of the same, so wrench and socket will often do it for you.
Optional:
Electric impact wrench.
Impact screw driver
Pig Mats (dark gray absorbent pads that come in a box and soak up stuff you drip and spill)
Beers
Number of a pizza place that delivers or on-like ordering
Neoprene pads - you can buy sheets of wetsuit material on ebay. 1/8 or 1/4". Good to sit on and great to lay on your tank when working so you don't scratch the tank.
Something to play tunes while you work
If work space gets cold, go all LED lighting. Fluorescent lights buzz and are a pain when cold.
Straps to hand your bike. You'll need to lift up the front to work on the front wheel and suspension
Cleaning supplies and assorted brushes
Those surgical clamps. Cheap at Harbor Freight. Great to pinch off fuel lines.
Rubber/vinyl/neoprene nipples. assortment for a couple bucks at an auto parts store. Use to cap off fuel lines and stick small ones inside a fuel hose to plug it while working
Generous assortment of metric nuts and washers and bolts. Buy a box-o-bolts from a bike breaker on ebay and you'll have lots of stare parts. We always replace fasteners that are dinged, stripped or damaged in any way.
Calipers - even cheap ones are better than none.
Soldering iron
Wire crimpers & wire strippers
Electrical tape
Shrink tubing
Small assortment of wire and connectors to fix broken wires
Camers: never hurts to take pictures as you take things apart so you know where they go back together.
Flashlights
Old containers for used oil & fluids
Always have your basic fluids on hand: Oil, fuel stabilizer (SeaFoam is great), maybe some extra gas, brake fluid (be sure the right kind of DOT to match what you have). Some brake cleaner. Can of engine cleaner. Chain oil.
Muffler work requires anti-seize. Spare exhaust gaskets.
PB Blaster or SeaFoam-DeepCreep for stuck bolts is handy.
WD40 always. Great for cleaning crap of your wheel rims and everything else.
Buy good tools - don't go cheap chinese crap. Spend the extra for hardened steel tools. Sears Craftsman, Kobalt or other quality brands. Buy good tools and they will last a lifetime. Nothing worse than a cheap wrench falling apart in the middle of a project. Buy them when on sale or a close out.
Quote from: radodrill on January 08, 2014, 04:38:38 PM
Quote from: Electrojake on January 08, 2014, 04:32:20 PM3.) Will my stock (dinged-up) 2007 F bike exhaust fit an old E bike?
Fitment of the exhausts is the same for all model years; only difference is the F model had ports for the PAIR system to tie in. BTW, new thestock F exhaust is ~$1200, while the pre-2000 stock exhaust is ~$600
Ports for PAIR system are separate from the exhaust.
All exhausts fit the same.
And contrary to what some say, I have yet to have to remove any exhaust to do an oil change. That includes stock, Vance & Hines, Jardine and Motad.
V&H is supposed to come with a bracket to support the center stand. Most others have the rubber bumper off of the pipe for that. Used V&H may be missing it because people forget to take it off because it goes on the right side center stand bolt. I can give you dimensions to make one if you go that way and it is missing.
Fuel Lines: Yours are probably hard and brittle. Buy new line. MotionPro is the choice for us. Gray, black or clear. Your likes from tank to petcock should be replaced. When you do it, stick the ends of your chunk of hose to the tank petcock. Then put down tank and run to the frame petcock. Make a few inches longer than necessary and cut to length. The extra inches will allow you to lift up the tank easier in the future.
The book says to remove fuel lines from the tank petcock. What a pain! We clamp them with surgical clamps at the frame petcock, remove it, then jam a nipple in to plug it. Much easier! Unscrewing the frame petcock can help. We never remove the hoses from the tank.
I guess I should do some more videos.
Mr. Adidasguy, I've printed the list and will head on over to autozone to pick everything up within the week. The service manual is in the mail as we speak. I am super excited to start working on this bike.
as far as the exhaust system goes I'm going to order a delkevic full system: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GS500E-GS500F-GS500-1989-09-Full-Muffler-System-Exhaust-14-Stubby-Carbon-Fiber-/171116494253?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d7567dad&vxp=mtr
It is cheaper than an OEM system and as far as i can tell by googling there aren't any negative reviews, unless anyone has any qualms with it i'm going to give it the go ahead tonight or tomorrow. It's actually about the same price the bike was, lol.
I've looked at it but haven't bought one.
It does have the bumper for the center stand based on the photos.
Looks good.
Be sure to use new exhaust gaskets, oh, well, just follow my video and swap Motad out for Delkevic and you will be OK.
When removing stuck bolts, it is common to just push and then you strip everything. Stick in the allen wrench then give it a whack - like an impact wrench would do. That will crack the corrosion and the bolts will come out. You'll see me do that is some of the videos. Everyone that comes to the Bike Cave has learned to do that and rarely ever is there a bolt we can't get out now. Sometimes tapping the head with a hammer helps. The shock will crack the corrosion.
Autozone might be expensive for tools and probably won't have the fuel line. You can order from lots of places or Motion Pro directly.
Check out Home Despot or Lowes and see what's on sale. Even harbor Freight (the home of disposable tools) has some really good stuff. I bought a small black socket set at True Value which has both SAE and Metric sockets, a ratchet handle and a screw driver type handle. That tends to be one of our favorite tool sets. Bought a monster size set of sockets by Kobalt at Lowes on sale for cheap - really good set with sockets and allen bits. Auto place would have nipples & chemical stuff, anti-seize, etc. Be sure motorcycle oil is motorcycle oil. Not the same as car oil. Brake fluid is brake fluid just get the same DOT (like dot 4 I think)
Thinking about vlogging my fixing up adventures with the bike using a headmounted gopro so you all can see what it's like for a complete n00b to go through the processes.
We LOVE pictures and VIDEO EVEN MORE!
Threads are worthless without pictures.
Should you be smitten by a sudden and uncontrollable fit of frugality:
Used you should be able to get on fleaBay for $65-80 shipped - particularly from California.
You can pay half that if you find one locally. I believe jws_cycles is a bike breaker on eBay located in NJ.
As stated, ANY exhaust for or from GS500 should work regardless of E, F or age.
As always, check or post in Marketplace here.
Looks like Anon got a case of GS Fever :confused:
Cool!
Just a little update: The bike is in temporary storage until I can make arrangements to get it over here. I've been gathering up a nest egg of videos, tutorials, parts, tools, hard liquor and pizza- so i'm just waiting until then to ask more about the bike.
Actually, question: if a used exhaust is 60-80, why are the new ones so pricey? Also, I don't believe the bike has a center stand, is that weird for the 00' models? I can fit a center stand onto the bike? That would make the bike much easier to work on-- or rather--
tips to make the bike easier to work on would be appreciated. (not tools, but lifts or jacks or whatever- links would be appreciated)
Someone took it off. They all come with a center stand.
Some people remove them when they put on an aftermarket exhaust. Put one back on.
There is a heaps of exausts here: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=gs500+exhaust&rt=nc
Some are slip on but some are full
Thanks so much! For some reason I'm just not the most savvy internet user like i used to be in the early 00's, haha. I already decided that I wanted to go with the delkevic system, it looks gorgeous and sounds beautiful- I'm going to be turning this bike into a real looker after I fix it up nicely.
I don't want to go with the stock exhaust because they all seem to get really gross really quick.
Quote from: AnonRider on January 11, 2014, 05:37:01 PM
Thanks so much! For some reason I'm just not the most savvy internet user like i used to be in the early 00's, haha. I already decided that I wanted to go with the delkevic system, it looks gorgeous and sounds beautiful- I'm going to be turning this bike into a real looker after I fix it up nicely.
I don't want to go with the stock exhaust because they all seem to get really gross really quick.
And, how many stainless exhausts have you seen on GS500s to judge they won't look like crap really quick?
Here's a Jardine system for example...
(http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/uploads/Upgrades/Jardinepipe.jpg)
Could give it a coat of blue-remover or whatever the stuff is called, to keep the stainless looking not so daggy. But hey, if you're doing that all the time might as well keep the originals and use stove polish on them...
or, keep the stock headers and get your patina this way... http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=63024.0A
Quote from: radodrill on January 08, 2014, 04:38:38 PM
Quote from: Electrojake on January 08, 2014, 04:32:20 PM3.) Will my stock (dinged-up) 2007 F bike exhaust fit an old E bike?
Fitment of the exhausts is the same for all model years; only difference is the F model had ports for the PAIR system to tie in. BTW, new thestock F exhaust is ~$1200, while the pre-2000 stock exhaust is ~$600
One has a cat shoved up it, the other doesn't. That's the reason for the price difference
damn, good point- has anyone wrapped their pipes with good results?
Quote from: AnonRider on January 12, 2014, 07:35:51 AM
damn, good point- has anyone wrapped their pipes with good results?
Wrapping to keep the heat up and help the scavenge or wrapping for the look or the safety aspect or the enhanced corrosion aspect, what
result are you after :dunno_black:
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on January 12, 2014, 07:50:30 AM
Quote from: AnonRider on January 12, 2014, 07:35:51 AM
damn, good point- has anyone wrapped their pipes with good results?
Wrapping to keep the heat up and help the scavenge or wrapping for the look or the safety aspect or the enhanced corrosion aspect, what result are you after :dunno_black:
For the cosmetic appeal and not having some rusted ass looking pipes on my bike!
update: i'll be bringing the bike home today finally because of some nice weather and will be taking some pictures with my dslr so everyone can get an idea of what i've got here.
Quote from: sledge on January 12, 2014, 02:19:13 AM
One has a cat shoved up it, the other doesn't. That's the reason for the price difference
At first I thought cat as in meow :icon_eek: ...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
... then I realized you meant CATalytic converter :thumb:
Quote from: radodrill on January 12, 2014, 10:54:55 AM
Quote from: sledge on January 12, 2014, 02:19:13 AM
One has a cat shoved up it, the other doesn't. That's the reason for the price difference
At first I thought cat as in meow :icon_eek: ...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
... then I realized you meant CATalytic converter :thumb:
Thank you, NOW I understand it, too.
Quote from: Atesz792 on January 12, 2014, 01:33:47 PM
Thank you, NOW I understand it, too.
For me CAT would have been clear from the start ;)
Quote from: radodrill on January 12, 2014, 03:29:38 PM
For me CAT would have been clear from the start ;)
I sure hope it would have been clear(ish...) for me too :D
Alright, so- got the bike, tried to take pics with my dslr- found out it was dead - i was eager to share some pics of the spots that I'm concerned with, so here you go!
It's pretty cramped in the garage, but it's safe and warm!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/38/teir.jpg)
the chain and sprocket in terrible lighting, i apologize- will get better pictures tomorrow, the chain has A LOT of play in it, like 2-3 inches
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/268/ebk2.jpg)
the petcock, which is loose
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/32/0l3n.jpg)
some really rusty bolts on the engine that i want to replace asap
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/21/ojq3.jpg)
this looks like something is dripping, i don't know if you can tell in this picture
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/845/o2hg.jpg)
and here we have some general rust
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/841/r2lr.jpg)
I've had it looked at by a technician, says everything sounds and feels fine except for the rusted chain and the exhaust can (which i wasn't able to get a picture of because i was kinda squeezed against the wall) the fluid is all apparently fine, could be replaced soon, the rear tire needs to be replaced ASAP, i'm going to go with the pirelli sport demon.
question about the exhaust can- how do i match the color of a slip on with the black headers? i want this bike to look beautiful and mismatched metal is not something i want on my bike.
what kind of bolt sizes should i buy for the bike? i've ordered the clymer manual but hasn't arrived yet.
ALSO-- there is no light under the tachometer, is there one? or do i need to replace this, if so-how?-- i'll search the forums in the meanwhile
thanks in advance for any input
Quote from: AnonRider on January 12, 2014, 06:39:12 PMALSO-- there is no light under the tachometer, is there one? or do i need to replace this, if so-how?-- i'll search the forums in the meanwhile
There is a bulb for the tach and one for the speedo; the sockets are compatible with T10 wedge base bulbs (I just put in LEDs with 5 SMD chips.
Instructions for replacement:
1) reach under the speedo and unscrew the thumb-nut for the speedo cable and disconnect it
2) use a 10mm wrench and remove the nuts for the bolts holding the cluster on the triple-tree; there will also be a wire holder, flat washer, and metal bushing
3) flip the cluster upside down
4) remove 3 screws that are joining the 2 halves of the cluster
5) use an 8mm wrench and remove the 4 nuts securing the gauges; you will also remove a metal and rubber washer, be careful that the gauges don't fall out
6) lift off the back of the cluster
7) pull out the rubberized bulb base (with the bulb in the socket)
The bulb simply pulls out of the socket then reverse the steps to re-install.
If you're going with LEDs, you can also replace the indicator lights (neutral etc.) with LEDs while you've got the cluster apart. These bulbs can be replaced with T5 or T6.5 wedge base bulbs.
Note: if you want the turn indicator to be an LED, then you will have to do a diode mod for that socket (easy if you have soldering skills). Here is a link to the mod: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46823.msg750726#msg750726 p.s. you can still use an incandescent bulb after making this change.
That's a great bike!
You can do just enough to make it street-legal and go ride it or...
Tear it down and build a sweetheart of an E bike if time & money are not an immediate problem.
Parts are cheap and plentiful for the GS500.
Air cooled, carburetors (not throttle bodies), no ECU to be a slave to, Life is good. :thumb:
Thanks for posting the pics too!
-Ej-
Quote from: radodrill on January 12, 2014, 07:37:08 PM
Quote from: AnonRider on January 12, 2014, 06:39:12 PMALSO-- there is no light under the tachometer, is there one? or do i need to replace this, if so-how?-- i'll search the forums in the meanwhile
There is a bulb for the tach and one for the speedo; the sockets are compatible with T10 wedge base bulbs (I just put in LEDs with 5 SMD chips.
Instructions for replacement:
1) reach under the speedo and unscrew the thumb-nut for the speedo cable and disconnect it
2) use a 10mm wrench and remove the nuts for the bolts holding the cluster on the triple-tree; there will also be a wire holder, flat washer, and metal bushing
3) flip the cluster upside down
4) remove 3 screws that are joining the 2 halves of the cluster
5) use an 8mm wrench and remove the 4 nuts securing the gauges; you will also remove a metal and rubber washer, be careful that the gauges don't fall out
6) lift off the back of the cluster
7) pull out the rubberized bulb base (with the bulb in the socket)
The bulb simply pulls out of the socket then reverse the steps to re-install.
If you're going with LEDs, you can also replace the indicator lights (neutral etc.) with LEDs while you've got the cluster apart. These bulbs can be replaced with T5 or T6.5 wedge base bulbs.
Note: if you want the turn indicator to be an LED, then you will have to do a diode mod for that socket (easy if you have soldering skills). Here is a link to the mod: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46823.msg750726#msg750726 p.s. you can still use an incandescent bulb after making this change.
Thanks! That seems simple enough! -parts ordered-.. I do NOT have soldering skills, I once tried to solder new pick ups into my guitar-- ended up a complete mess and disaster, will not go down that road again.
Quote from: Electrojake on January 12, 2014, 07:38:45 PM
That's a great bike!
You can do just enough to make it street-legal and go ride it or...
Tear it down and build a sweetheart of an E bike if time & money are not an immediate problem.
Parts are cheap and plentiful for the GS500.
Air cooled, carburetors (not throttle bodies), no ECU to be a slave to, Life is good. :thumb:
Thanks for posting the pics too!
-Ej-
Money is not really an issue, I don't want to dismantle the entire thing though, lol! I AM going to do the maintenance to get it in good condition, and I will clean the hell out of so that it looks like new, I also want to do any replacing that needs to be replaced. I'll start with the simple things then build up confidence to really go to town on this thing.
Like I said though- the major things are the chain, the rusted bolts, rear tire and the tachometer light.
Quote from: AnonRider on January 12, 2014, 07:47:56 PM
I do NOT have soldering skills, I once tried to solder new pick ups into my guitar-- ended up a complete mess and disaster, will not go down that road again.
This isn't nearly as bad as a set of pickups would be since you're not dealing with fine wires.
When I did my diode mod; I first removed all the tape from the wires for the turn and high indicators.
Cut the 2 wires to the turn indicator about 2-3 cm from the wire jacket
I stripped all the cut wire ends about 5mm and on the B/W wire (black with white stripe) from the high indicator I used a stripper to make 2 cuts in the insulation 5mm apart, then used a knife to cut the insulation lengthwise and remove the 5mm piece.
Next I used solder and the iron to tin all the stripped wires.
Then I used a pair of "helping hands" to hold the diode leads adjacent to (and touching) the wires from the harness and soldered together
I slipped on some heatshrink tubing over the solder joints and over the green lead for the bulb socket (here I used a smaller size for the wire as well as a larger size to cover both diodes)
Again use the helping hands to hold both diodes in one jaw and the green wire in the other; make sure the wires from both diodes are touching.
Solder and slip over the heatshrink (already on the green wire) then shrink
Use the helping hands to hold the black wire from the socket on the exposed portion of the B/W wire and solder
Re-tape everything (this will insulate the exposed portion of the B/W wire
Note: tinning the wires is one of the keys to getting a good solder joint. The helping hands are the other key as this keeps things from moving on you. Once the tinned wires are against each other you merely have to touch on the soldering tip and add a little bit of solder.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/703/0wlf.jpg)
i took the high temp rustoleum to the exhaust pipes! it did a great job of covering the rust- i only used the rostoleum after i realized that it wasn't coming off with the wd-40 rust penetrating spray or the marinetime rust eliminator. the only thing is that the frame is a bit rusty i'm not sure what would cover that up nicely.
a better pic of the rusty chain
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/30/a7on.jpg)
all in all i cleaned up nicely! just got to get a few things finished, like the frame touch up, adding the center stand back, the new exhaust can, new chain and sprocket and the rear wheel tire- should be in immaculate condition with as little as 5-600 bucks!
I would love it if someone would sacrifice an old and new muffler so we could see this cat that either does or does not exist depending on the last comment on the given thread on a given site....
But this sets one to wondering if there has been a Gladius to GS500 exhaust system transplant yet.