For anybody that's used this tool, before syncing, which carb do you calibrate the tool for? In the motion pro video, the 4-carb bike they demonstrate on had a master carb that was used to calibrate the tool before syncing the other carbs. Same deal for the GS500? Probably the left carb if so?
I'll have to look in my book, but how I've seen it done usually you just try to get them to match you really aren't looking for a spec or any thing like that. In the mean time this might help.
The GS has a bias screw between the two carbs and no master carb, every carb sync I have ever done on a 4 cyl had adjusters on every carb, so I am assuming the master carb might be an nonadjustable carb that has to have the other carbs synced to it? I have never run into that :dunno_black:
^^^I REMEMBER THAT VIDEO ABOVE^^^: Do everything in that video but DO NOT REV THE ENGINE!! Set the bias screw at an idle or just above an idle at 1500 Rpm if you want and with the engine fully warmed up, and a small fuel supply to keep the carb bowls full while adjusting. DO NOT BLIP THE THROTTLE WITH A MANOMETER CONNECTED :nono:
OK I watched the Motion Pro video, the Master Carb is mentioned when calibrating the tool (6:15 in video), my mercury manometer never has to be calibrated so I have never heard of this. Pick your favorite carb when calibrating the tool?? But it does sound like you will want to calibrate the tool before using it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nwP6R1P58A#t=414 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nwP6R1P58A#t=414)
Yeah, that's how they presented it. I think they were syncing an FZ400. Sounds like if my fluid levels in my manometer are even when I start out then I should be good.
OK..the throttle cable connects to the carb on the left in photo (right leg on bike) with the bias adjuster altering the butterfly to the carb on the right in photo (left leg on bike) so my official assumption is...the carb on the left in photo (right leg on bike) is the Master Carb on a GS500 :dunno_black:
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/extend.jpg)
Interesting, so maybe there is actually a master carb. I neglected to mention I have a 1994. I'm guessing those are the 2001+ carbs?
I should probably have a closer look at the linkage, maybe it'll be obvious. I'll do some trial and error (at the proper RPM) and report back.
Thanks for the replies.
To be honest with you, I really don't think it maters what carb you use? Pick one and calibrate the manometer before you use it though.
With the Motion Pro - DO NOT FORGET THE RESTRICTORS ON THE LINES!
Actually, all of them have them. Without them, you WILL suck out the fluid especially of you blip the throttle.
With them in there, blipping doesn't cause issues because the resulting line for the vacuum is only about 1/64" in diameter. Not enough for any rapid sucking.
Even my set with the stainless steel rods and one with a meter dial need them. The restrictors result in a smooth vacuum to the tool.
I think the master carb refers to bikes with more than 2 cylinders. With them, you have to go down the row and have 3 adjustments. We have 2 carbs and one adjustment.
You should read the directions and calibrate the Motion Pro device. I think it comes calibrated, but never hurts to check it.
Calibrating makes sure 2 lines will register the same vacuum. Connect the 2 together with a T and connect to either carb (don't forget the restrictor!). Both fluid levers should move the same. If not, adjust so both are the same. Think of it as the balance on a stereo. Feed the same audio to both channels and adjust so both are the same. Now connect up the left and right. Same with the tool.
I don't suppose there's a better option than the Motion Pro?
I went the cheap route. Aquarium line (internal diameter of 1/8 inch), Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, and a little Coleman camp stove funnel.
If you want more accuracy/resolution, get a realllly long line so that there is more of a "buffer".
And don't rev. You'll just suck the fluid into the carbs and holy moly does Sta-bil stink when burned.
Quote from: dinkydonuts on February 26, 2014, 10:10:16 AM
And don't rev. You'll just suck the fluid into the carbs and holy moly does Sta-bil stink when burned.
Speaking from experience eh? :flipoff:
Quote from: Xevamir on February 26, 2014, 07:08:28 AM
I don't suppose there's a better option than the Motion Pro?
Morgan Carbtune.
Stainless steel rods - no fluid to worry about.
You still require restrictors.
Other than fluid .vs. no fluid, the MotionPro is good. Just follow directions.
Though with the Carbtune, we can move it around and not worry about fluids getting bubbles and things like that.
Quote from: dinkydonuts on February 26, 2014, 10:10:16 AM
If you want more accuracy/resolution, get a realllly long line so that there is more of a "buffer".
The in-line restrictors give you all the buffer you need.
About 4 inches from the carb, in the hose, a small section of tube with only a 1/64" or 1/32" or so passage is inserted. MotionPro I recall uses a brass insert which does the same thing.
The MotionPro directions tell you how to insert them into your hoses.
Exactly. I'd already installed the restrictors so I'm good there. I'll go ahead and calibrate it to one of the carbs and see how it goes.
As always, thanks everyone for diving so deep into this stuff.