hi everyone
i have fitted a new (hel) braided line up front with a refurbished caliper and new pads up front
the problem is the travel on the lever is way to far back around a inch from the lever is were it is bitting point is
the brakes stop a sixpence but the travel on level is terrible !
i can put the brake in a inch and nothing happens untill i hit the spot around 1-2cm and it bits lovley
not a clue what to do ive bleed the brakes and gone thru almost 600ml of fluid !
i can see air in the lines its bassicly smaller than the eye can see but it is there and i carnt get rid of it !
i might try get some new master cylinder seals as thats the only thing i havent done and al do it for peace of mind !
can anybody help me ?
thanks very much
nay :thumb:
When you bleed the brakes, you re-use the fluid.
ANY air will make the brakes soft.
Let the air collect into larger bubbles. In a few days, re-bleed. The big bubbles will come out.
If you have lots of tiny bubbles as you say, it sounds like you have a pinhole air leak somewhere. Bad crush washers? Fittings not tight?
thanks for the reply
i have cable tied the lever back and took res cap off for night see if its any better in morning but i was gonna run bike and see if i can get all air to collect then re bleed in a few days like u said
all brand new copper washers and banjo bolts except the caliper one as the one they sent was wrong pitch thread so i am leaning towards that atm so al get a new banjo bolt and probs re bleed them see what happens
all fittings are tight and new copper washers i might put my old bleed nipple in as this might be at fault as u never no
just wanted to no if anyone else had this problem
so if the cabletie the lever back and leave it over night trick doesnt work
al get fresh copper washers and a new banjo bolt and see how i go
but please for anyone who wants to share more input please do as it could be anything
thanks
nay
also to add to that the brake feels very firm not spongy at all
the first pull on the lever there is resistance but bassicly nothing then i get to the sweet spot were it feels maybe a tiny bit spongy but that gos then gos lovley and firm
cheers
Banjo bolts are fine if clean so no need for a new one.
Couple things on new brakes:
You need to use them a little for the pads to seat where they want to be. The first few rides they feel like you say. As they are used and the pads seat in, you'll find the brakes get better. (At least all my brakes show this tendency.)
Also, as you use them a little, the vibration will jiggle bubbles up to the top where they collect into larger bubbles, easier to bleed out. New fluid from all the commotion is kind of like soda pop. There is gas in there and you can't get it out. Vibrations cause the dissolved gas to work out so you can get rid of it.
Sometimes on front brakes, the bubble will work its way to the top of the brake line and exit out the master cylinder.
So maybe go for a week then re-bleed.
cheers for the reply again mate it is really nice to no there is people out there who will spend there time to help others ! :thumb:
i agree with what u say hopefully i shall fix this soon !
al update soon
cheers !
You probably need to pump the lever a few times and then crack the banjo's and let it bleed ... repeat few times ... I have many times had brakes sorta self separate the air ... I dunno how ever to put it ... gravity and the little pressure from pumping it take care of it, but you do need to pump and bleed it.
Cool.
buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on February 28, 2014, 07:00:45 PM
You probably need to pump the lever a few times and then crack the banjo's and let it bleed ... repeat few times ... I have many times had brakes sorta self separate the air ... I dunno how ever to put it ... gravity and the little pressure from pumping it take care of it, but you do need to pump and bleed it.
Cool.
buddha.
Bleeding by cracking the banjo bolt at the lever was the only way to fix this issue for me
putting the obvious aside, are you sure your rotor isnt warped, and no i dont mean as in pulseing feeling, but like a tea saucer. ive had this happen and i could pump the brakes up nice and tight, very little travel, and rotor is squeezed flat between pads, however once you release the lever the rotor kinda springs back spreading the brake shoes apart slowly on its own. couple pumps and its tight again.
Just recently rebuilt my front brake , i lost all feeling in front brake , basically pull the lever. And nuthin until around half way down and then it would bite.
I stripped cleaned and regreased the caliper and fitted new pads and complete fluid changed
And still no better..
Then the lever wouldnt return to theoff position so wasnt turning off the brake light
Anyway stripped and rebuilt master cylinder with a full piston . Spring and seal kit
Rebleed and all is good
I'v found it's better to use a syringe & pump the fluid from the bleed nipple upwards...IF necessary then bleed downwards to finish the job.
You can also use a vacuum bleeder, I picked one up at sears for $100 and it works perfect, also you can use it on cars/trucks. It gives the best pedal/lever feel.
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Hose on bleeder to glass jar, crack bleeder open slightly, keep pumping fluid and adding fluid to reservoir. Go through two or three reservoirs full of fluid. Never had air in the lines after that, even lines that were higher than the master and caliper.
regards
Mech