My buddy gave me his 92 GS 500 after someone attempted to steal it. needs a ignition and throttle housing.
its a little beat up so before I get into it is it worth the fix?
I jump the ign harness to get power and the bike starts with no problems, smooth idle an runs through the gears. The bike has some surface rust on the light assy, frame and the forks need fluid if not rebuilt. I'm not a bike mechanic but I know a few things about them. not looking to fix an flip jus thought if it was worth a good project bike
Quote from: kensully on March 18, 2014, 02:06:06 PM
My buddy gave me his 92 GS 500 after someone attempted to steal it. needs a ignition and throttle housing.
its a little beat up so before I get into it is it worth the fix?
I jump the ign harness to get power and the bike starts with no problems, smooth idle an runs through the gears. The bike has some surface rust on the light assy, frame and the forks need fluid if not rebuilt. I'm not a bike mechanic but I know a few things about them. not looking to fix an flip jus thought if it was worth a good project bike
If he is giving it to you, yes, even if it don't run you can part it out and make money. if it runs, you will only put cash into repairs. lets see ole ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Emgo-Ignition-Switch-Suzuki-GSXR1100-GSX750F-GS500-RF900-GSXR750-GSX1100F-/291095560451?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AGS500E&hash=item43c6a5c103&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Emgo-Ignition-Switch-Suzuki-GSXR1100-GSX750F-GS500-RF900-GSXR750-GSX1100F-/291095560451?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AGS500E&hash=item43c6a5c103&vxp=mtr) for ignition
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Suzuki-GS-500-Right-Side-Handlebar-Control-/271399164917?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f30a69bf5&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Suzuki-GS-500-Right-Side-Handlebar-Control-/271399164917?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f30a69bf5&vxp=mtr) for the right hand controls minus the throttle cable
and
for the fork seals
very do able and under 110$, chain tires brake pads and airfilters i consider consumables and have no real bearing on value of vehicle unless rotors are destroyed. then i will ask for x amount off price. but your getting the bike for free. even if you had to put 500$ into it to make it reliable and safe, its worth it for at least a years worth of riding. best part, you could sell it for 500+ and make abit of coin.
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Unlimited-Front-Fork-Seals-37mm-x-49mm-x-8mm-PUP40FORK455040-FS-016-/331049203764?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASuzuki%7CModel%3AGS500E&hash=item4d1411f834&vxp=mtr%5B/url)
It runs. That's 90% of the job.
All the rest is cosmetic and easy to fix.
if a clear title keep her. that aside, check with adidasguy, he MIGHT have what you need. you can part it out as well. im addicted to them ive had 5. one of them twice. a 92, a 97 a 96, and another 97 I had owned twice.
As an owner of a 90....something special about the 24yr old girl....do it!!
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Thanks for the input, I ordered the ign and throttle, go ebay, title is clean reg is out 2 yrs but I'm getting a good feeling with her.
she purrs like a kitten, and has surprised me with the acceleration, just need to do the forks. when going in and out of the drive they bottom out it feels like. you think I may need to replace or just seals and lube?
Also how hard is it to strip down to frame? was thinking of repainting the frame. this is the first gs500 I ever owned so any insight would be appreciated.
New seals and circlips with 20w Motul and my bike is transformed. I way 125kg and she used to dive under heavy brakes
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Quote from: kensully on March 19, 2014, 08:13:44 AM
Thanks for the input, I ordered the ign and throttle, go ebay, title is clean reg is out 2 yrs but I'm getting a good feeling with her.
she purrs like a kitten, and has surprised me with the acceleration, just need to do the forks. when going in and out of the drive they bottom out it feels like. you think I may need to replace or just seals and lube?
Also how hard is it to strip down to frame? was thinking of repainting the frame. this is the first gs500 I ever owned so any insight would be appreciated.
From the experience I've had through all the bikes I've had and have, I would just fix the forks and ride it. It's nice pass some time in the garage, but you may find yourself going nuts messing with the bike, the having to fix things that werent broken in the first place. Specially for a 1st time.
Fix forks it and ride it. Do maintenance, watch out for the oil level going low, check valve clearance.
If in a year from now, you still want to paint the frame, only then I would paint it.
BTW, I found that some light rust spots in the frame diapears with a scotchbrite and wd40.
This is my 4th official bike so as far as the need to ride I have two other street bikes and a dirtbike. most I've done mechanical on bikes is r&r forks and minor maintenance, plus a few cosmetic add ons. I was considering letting my wife learn to ride with this one then move up to my other project (02 Yamaha yzf600 originally bought for motor an trans for a gokart http://gstwins.com/gsboard/Smileys/New_Smile/icon_smile.gif ) she is stoked that I got it turn over and how easy it starts up.
question, on my GS while replacing the ign. the set screw broke inside the threads, do I need to replace the upper triple tree clamp or should I just drill it out? its about a 1/8-1/4in recessed into the clamp.
the other screw came out no prob and I have the ign set with one screw and seems to be holding, should I just roll with it for now?
This is the first forum I've been with so I may get a little overbearing with questions. my apologizes in advance
The ignition lock screws are broken off at the factory. The Haynes manual gives a way to remove the lock. They are torx bolts so that tool can help. Or just cut off the old one so some bolt is left and then use pliers to remove the remaining stub.
Or buy a replacement upper triple where the lock was already removed.
Quote from: adidasguy on March 19, 2014, 01:07:22 PM
The ignition lock screws are broken off at the factory. The Haynes manual gives a way to remove the lock. They are torx bolts so that tool can help. Or just cut off the old one so some bolt is left and then use pliers to remove the remaining stub.
Or buy a replacement upper triple where the lock was already removed.
I used an online manual to figure out about the removal of the ign, but one of the bolts had broken off inside the threaded area.
I figured I would just pull the clamp off and tap it seeing the threaded portion is recessed inside the hole. but I will be buying a new triple tree set since the originals are pitted and corroded
Quote from: kensully on March 19, 2014, 01:39:50 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on March 19, 2014, 01:07:22 PM
The ignition lock screws are broken off at the factory. The Haynes manual gives a way to remove the lock. They are torx bolts so that tool can help. Or just cut off the old one so some bolt is left and then use pliers to remove the remaining stub.
Or buy a replacement upper triple where the lock was already removed.
I used an online manual to figure out about the removal of the ign, but one of the bolts had broken off inside the threaded area.
I figured I would just pull the clamp off and tap it seeing the threaded portion is recessed inside the hole. but I will be buying a new triple tree set since the originals are pitted and corroded
had this on mine too, former track bike, i soaked the hell out of it with penatrating lube, then used a punch to mark the center of the bolt, started from the bottom drilling up with a small drillbit about 1/2 the diameter of the bolt and slowly stepped up from there bigger and bigger till finnaly the hole was close to threads but not cutting threads and the drill bit grabbed the bolt and unthreaded it out the top. by slowly opening the hole it allowed the threads of the bolt to collapse alittle. ive snapped off easy out's in small stuff cuz it tries to expand the bolt as the tool bites into the bolt. the drilling from the reverse side has led me to more success with small diameter bolts then easy outs. larger bolts its not as critical i guess.
had this on mine too, former track bike, i soaked the hell out of it with penatrating lube, then used a punch to mark the center of the bolt, started from the bottom drilling up with a small drillbit about 1/2 the diameter of the bolt and slowly stepped up from there bigger and bigger till finnaly the hole was close to threads but not cutting threads and the drill bit grabbed the bolt and unthreaded it out the top. by slowly opening the hole it allowed the threads of the bolt to collapse alittle. ive snapped off easy out's in small stuff cuz it tries to expand the bolt as the tool bites into the bolt. the drilling from the reverse side has led me to more success with small diameter bolts then easy outs. larger bolts its not as critical i guess.
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hey thanks a lot worked out great, I used deep creak as the lube and in 2 drill bits had it out.
She is coming together quicker than I thought. simple fixes, loving it.
yeah, i had to do alot of odd ball stuff like that to almost everything ive owned . ive never owned a new vehicle or other sort of power equipment. always had to fix and use someone elses throw away stuff. closest thing i have to new is an 06 R1 raven edition with 8k miles, traded for my 94 katana 600. but even that, ive had to repair and replace stuff.
Quote from: Blueknyt on March 23, 2014, 02:31:59 PM
yeah, i had to do alot of odd ball stuff like that to almost everything ive owned . ive never owned a new vehicle or other sort of power equipment. always had to fix and use someone elses throw away stuff. closest thing i have to new is an 06 R1 raven edition with 8k miles, traded for my 94 katana 600. but even that, ive had to repair and replace stuff.
Story of my life lol.
Closest for a new bike i have is a 02 kawi , and yama.
Both needed work yama is still waiting for cosmetics