So instead of just fixing things here and there, I have decided to just go all out and fix everything before I start riding her seriously. So today I took apart the entire fuel system... and this is what I found. (btw the order is not chronological, its just random).
1. First of all the gas tank is super rusty, and the brand new fuel filters were already backed up with rust.
2. Fuel lines were dry rotted and in general disrepair.
3. Tank petcock is missing its screen and the valve is broken (in the off position some fuel still flows, caused a bit of a fuel spill).
4. Carbs had been "rebuilt" by an idiot... there were new screws on the bowls so I know it was taken apart recently (screws were crap too, I stripped them getting them off and replaced them with hex bolts). So first things first, the c-clip on the needle was set to position 6 instead of position 1, and there were two plastic spacers on each needle (one old, one new) so the needle was riding waaay higher than it was supposed to be. Also I heard somethings jingling around on the inside of the left carb and when I opened the bowl you will not believe what I found... the main jet had come out and was loose inside the bowl... no I am not frigging kidding. Luckily all the o-rings and gaskets were in good shape so I can return the K&L rebuild kits I bought as I didn't need them.
5. Carbs were out of synch
And here are the repairs/upgrades I made today...
1. De-greased the engine and surrounding parts
2. Cleaned out the fuel filters.
3. Thoroughly cleaned out the carbs.
4. Set the needle c-clip to position 2
5. Removed one of the plastic spacers on each needle
6. Changed the main jets from 122.5 to 150 (and made sure they were snug!)
7. Changed pilots from 37.5 to 40 and set to 3 turns out
8. Reassembled carbs with new hex bolts.
9. Did a rough carb synch with some same size drill bits
10. Used Mopar combustion chamber cleaner (you spray it into the throttle body, I did it after removing the carbs though), using a flashlight I could tell it did a good job of removing carbon from the tops of the intake valves, as far as the actual cylinder though... who knows.
11. Re-installed carbs
12. Routed new fuel lines from the fuel petcock to the carbs with nice high quality reinforced fuel lines.
13. Replaced stock air box with K&N lunch box air filter.
14. Used a cut up T-shirt and some zip ties to cover the breather tube coming from the valve cover and the vent tube coming from the top of the carbs.
15. Replaced the front brake lever (it was bent bad like it had been knocked over on that side).
Things I still *need to do.
1. Remove rust from inside of tank (suggestions on how?).
2. Sand and paint the tank, new fender, and rear plastics (they are faded and look like crap).
3. Install new tank petcock.
4. Install tank, new fender, and plastics.
5. Finish fuel line routing
6. Replace dry rotted tires.
7. Replace rusted old chain with new O-ring chain.
8. Replace brake pads with nice new EBC pads (HH on front and GG on rear).
9. Replace fork seals.
10. Install V&H full exhaust system (otherwise the rejet I did will make it run rich, I did that because I didn't want to have to take apart the carbs twice in a row)
11. Install bar end weights
12. Properly synch the carbs
13. check and adjust carb float height
14. clean fuel petcock
Things I still *want to do
1. Replace rear shock with katana 600 shock (stock is too soft for my weight).
2. Replace front fork springs with a set of 80 kg/mm sonic springs (according to their calc)
3. Replace head light bulb with brighter bulb (and polish the bezel).
4. Replace horn with louder horn.
5. Install buell blast windscreen.
6. Install belly pan.
7. Get a corbin seat.
8. Replace mirrors with lower profile mirrors.
9. Ignition advance
10. Install braided brake lines
11. Install 15 tooth front sprocket
12. Mount GPS to handle bars
13. replace spark plugs with NGK iridiums (I already have them, but I want to wait until the fuel mixture is dialed in right)
14. Install low profile LED turn signals and do a fenderectomy
This guy at The MpoedArmy says it better than anyone lee re rusty tanks......
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank
Quote from: noworries on March 21, 2014, 12:09:19 AM
This guy at The MpoedArmy says it better than anyone lee re rusty tanks......
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank
Dude awesome link! Thanks!
You dont need to remove carbon ... and carbon is easily removed by spraying water into the air cleaner of a fully warmed up bike running a high idle.
Anyway you also could put stainless steek allen head bolts or button head bolts for the floats in a 89-00 bike.
The rusty tank clean out we have done a 1000 times. Search for POR15 threads or muriatic acid threads by yours truly. I am a huge fan of muriatic acid followed by por15's blue cleaner in a very diluted solution and then coating with POR15, but POR15 has a 1000 precautions etc etc ... anyway look for posts on it.
Cool.
Buddha.
Well it is coming apart easy enough... hopefully it will go back together just as easy (doubtful lol).
(http://s28.postimg.org/wkygcxcq5/IMG_20140315_223451.jpg)
(http://s23.postimg.org/ubznnauu3/IMG_20140321_202115.jpg)
That's a good one, I had one just like it! Orange 97/98 model.
Quote from: Kijona on March 22, 2014, 12:26:18 AM
That's a good one, I had one just like it! Orange 97/98 model.
This is a 98 and she only has 2400 miles!, but the poor thing sat out in the texas sun forever with no one to ride her. So I am stripping her down, and building her back up with the attention and love she deserves :angel:
Watch for pin holes in the tank when you work with vinegar or acid, they might form
while the stuff is working the metal and you get nasty spills. put that tank in a bucket for safety
when you do the vinegar treatment (BJ's has 1 gallon for 3 bucks).
Put that tank ELEVATED over a bucket if you use acid so you don't kill the paint if something leaks, pinholes
will most likely be on the bottom somewhere.
Most rusty gs tanks I tried to save either ate away on the lock plate of the gas cap which subsequently
ended up in there corroding away, or the tube inside the tank (vent tube?) rust out and that floated around in it.
If you have substantial rust material in your fuel lines, it might be beyond saving even if the paint is still
good but you can always give it shot with Vinegar..cheaper than the alternative and save on paint in
case of pinholes
I now use this to check my problem before i do anything and afterwards to make sure all the rust is out, in
the end to make sure everything is coated and there is no flaking, 15 bucks I'll never regret: :woohoo:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZWFOEQ/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck!
I decided to get the POR-15 tank repair kit, it has good reviews and then I can seal it once the rust is out. Apple cider vinegar was my first choice but I think the POR-15 will work out better.
Today I am sitting here considering my paint options, the orange is badly faded and the bike needs repainting... I will be doing the paint myself and I don't know how far I want to take it. With it disassembled to the point in the picture I could paint the tank and plastics satin black and leave the frame and engine silver which would look cool. But I could take it a step further and do the paint job I REALLY want but it would require me taking it completely apart down to a bare frame. My ideal paint job would be a satin black wheels, engine, frame, swing arm, triple tree, and lower forks. And then satin pearlescent white on the tank and plastics... I think it would look downright diabolical... but dang thats a lot of work!!! Idk, what do you guys think?
frame takes forever, spare yourself the trouble, silver goes with anything, get back on the road and ride :bowdown:
Quote from: illenium on March 22, 2014, 09:21:54 PM
frame takes forever, spare yourself the trouble, silver goes with anything, get back on the road and ride :bowdown:
Yea it would be a lot of work, but dang it would look awesome to have a black frame and engine... decisions decisions, its gonna be awhile before this bike hits the road again anyway I intend to take my time. Idk...
Decided to go for it, I am stripping the bike down now... also Illenium for me working on bikes is just as interesting and fun as riding them! Besides I am a perfectionist and I see so much potential in this bike, I have a vision and I am going to see it through. And you guys get to watch and follow along!! :)
P.S. If a mod sees this can you please move this thread to the builds forum?
I'm right there with you buddy. Just sold my daily rider, 2001 gs500, working on an 04 and a 92. I'm spending more time wrenching than riding :thumb:
Hope I get these projects out and on the road for more miles instead :bowdown:
moar pics?
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on March 25, 2014, 10:53:58 AM
moar pics?
Not much to show yet other than I got her stripped almost all the way down. Just have to drop the engine and pull the rear wheel and swing arm. But here is a pic of where I am at.
(http://s7.postimg.org/y8hv67tl7/IMG_20140323_212357.jpg)
Yikes I just spent quite a bit more on parts than I spent on buying the bike >:(
Its ok though, its worth it to me. Its gonna be a sweet sweet scooter when its done :icon_mrgreen:
Oh jeez ... you did all that for a carb clean and some fuel line routing ?
I have a black powdercoated frame ... its not worth the effort when the frame looks like that.
Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together.
I have been riding mine and put over 4k on it, but it still is missing parts ... rear brake M/C etc mainly ... but I need to fab up a stay rod, cos I went to a B4 rear wheel and a hanging caliper ...
Anyway one time I came back from a bike purchase with one that looked like that ... and my wife looks at it the next day where its occupied the whole truck bed ... and she says ... yea, you'll save lots of time on this one ... its already apart.
Cool.
Buddha.
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha
:bowdown:
Quote from: The Buddha on March 28, 2014, 06:10:50 AM
Oh jeez ... you did all that for a carb clean and some fuel line routing ?
I have a black powdercoated frame ... its not worth the effort when the frame looks like that.
Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together.
I have been riding mine and put over 4k on it, but it still is missing parts ... rear brake M/C etc mainly ... but I need to fab up a stay rod, cos I went to a B4 rear wheel and a hanging caliper ...
Anyway one time I came back from a bike purchase with one that looked like that ... and my wife looks at it the next day where its occupied the whole truck bed ... and she says ... yea, you'll save lots of time on this one ... its already apart.
Cool.
Buddha.
lol yea I couldn't help myself... now I have to do a ground up rebuild. I am looking forward to the challenge though. I made sure to bag all the hardware and take tons of pics so I can get it back together correctly. However by the time I am completely done, the amount spent could have bought me a brand new ninja 300 abs, which I have been drooling over for awhile. But the vision I have for the GS trumps even that so yea... it will be worth it.
No you need to rebuild the ground first dont you think ...
Once again, after you did all of that ... sadly it will still be a GS.
Only time something like this makes sense is if someone gave you the bits disassembled already ... which makes my only case of succesfully doing this that much more stark in comparison ... cos it was in pieces ... I still think I should not have done it :cookoo:
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on March 28, 2014, 11:37:44 AM
No you need to rebuild the ground first dont you think ...
Once again, after you did all of that ... sadly it will still be a GS.
Only time something like this makes sense is if someone gave you the bits disassembled already ... which makes my only case of succesfully doing this that much more stark in comparison ... cos it was in pieces ... I still think I should not have done it :cookoo:
Cool.
Buddha.
Well thanks for ruining my plans and telling me I am wasting my time and that I am cookoo... much appreciated man. :flipoff:
Lmao Joe your description described the 93 I had picked up a few years back
Well I really want to see where you go with it Jow,....subd,..need moar pics! :star:
Right now all the pics I have are just for my reference. Nothing interesting yet, but when the parts start coming in and I get to the cool stuff I will post some pics!
Tires are in, Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 140 rear and 110 front... Both are the H rated versions, there are V rated versions available in the same size, but that would be pointless for the GS. I thought these were bias ply tires but apparently they are radials.
(http://s12.postimg.org/cke2jj3h9/IMG_20140329_194408.jpg)
(http://s28.postimg.org/644ycp67h/IMG_20140329_200451.jpg)
(http://s27.postimg.org/zce1sjjqb/IMG_20140329_200410.jpg)
Nice man... New tires are so awesome. I love them!! The first ride with them is great haha. Just make sure you take it easy and let them break in properly.
Quote from: joweaver88 on March 29, 2014, 08:01:02 PM
Tires are in, Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 140 rear and 110 front... Both are the H rated versions, there are V rated versions available in the same size, but that would be pointless for the GS. I thought these were bias ply tires but apparently they are radials.
No V speed rated Rosso II, all are ZR tires with W speed rating except the 110/70 and 140/70 HR ones made for small bike competition. W=168 mph.
http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/motorcycle/sheet/diablo_rosso_2.tab?tab=8
http://motoseries.com/old/articles/2012_pirelli_specs.pdf
You are correct, H and W speeds are available in the 140 rear only. No V ratings at all.
Both H and W speed Rosso II tires are available in the 110/70 front, the only 140/70 size is the H rated one. As has been conventional for many years radial supersport type tires start with a 150/50 or 160/60 smallest size and go up from there. We are lucky to get the 140/70 Rosso II for those wanting a supersport radial for bikes like the GS500 and Ninja 500/250/300.
I removed the rust from the gas tank this past weekend using a combination of hot water, vinegar, and then a por-15 tank repair kit. This was a major pain in the butt!! There was so much rust inside the tank it was unbelievable... there were also some foreign objects which were dang near impossible to get out (the plastic stem from the petcock, and 3 steel balls which I assume are leftovers from a previous rust removal attempt).
The following pictures are after the initial hot water rinse, NO chemicals made it down the drain of my tub. Lots more crap came out over the weekend but this initial shot is the most telling. But now the tank is rust free and has been sealed with por-15 so I should be good there.
(http://s29.postimg.org/cb2xlpu1z/IMG_20140405_140718.jpg)
(http://s12.postimg.org/6yofnnpl9/IMG_20140405_142331.jpg)
Painted some parts and received my corbin seat today... pics!
(http://s10.postimg.org/aezsvfc0p/IMG_20140411_192540.jpg)
(http://s3.postimg.org/i2h6xdsk3/IMG_20140411_192838.jpg)
(http://s17.postimg.org/57ki4ldyn/IMG_20140411_192757.jpg)
Tank is almost done
(http://s15.postimg.org/6lpdase17/IMG_20140412_190405.jpg)
That corbin seat is nice looking man, and boy are they comfortable...
I am looking forward to updates on your paint job, always nice to see a little custom work.
I am ordering some more parts... finally ordered the replacement stock carb jet needles I needed. Now I am trying to determine what the right size washers I need for the carb rejet. The wiki just says "#4 Washers" I looked this up thinking it was a standard size but its not. I see No. 4 washers with several different thicknesses available. Does anyone know specifically what the dimensions of the washers should be (if going by the wiki guide)?
#4 washers are available @ lowes. You just get a pack with mostly uniform thicknesses. Then put the closest ones in the left vs right.
I buy a 1000 pack from fastenal or other similar industrial supply places, they are pretty accurate ... all abiiout 1.5mm thick.
You prolly should jet the bike right. Then you get washers in the kit I'll sell you.
The thing I should say is, you're pretty far along ... I would take 3 years to get to this point.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on April 16, 2014, 08:43:06 PM
#4 washers are available @ lowes. You just get a pack with mostly uniform thicknesses. Then put the closest ones in the left vs right.
I buy a 1000 pack from fastenal or other similar industrial supply places, they are pretty accurate ... all abiiout 1.5mm thick.
You prolly should jet the bike right. Then you get washers in the kit I'll sell you.
The thing I should say is, you're pretty far along ... I would take 3 years to get to this point.
Cool.
Buddha.
Nearest Lowes is too far to go on a bicycle...
I am not seeing any #4 washers that are 1.5mm thick (.06in) the thickest #4 washers I have found are 1mm (.04in) thick and most are .76mm (.03in) thick. That is a small difference in the grand scheme of things I guess, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to clarify what the wiki meant.
Just out of curiosity what comes in your jetting kit? I already got some bigger mikuni OEM jets to use (and replacement OEM needles so I can ditch the dynojet ones).
My kit has mains and pilots and bolts and washers. You prolly got the right ones. You'd need 125/40 for a stock bike, pipe also same. 150 for pipe and K&N lunchbox.
1mm you say - 1 sec, I am going to measure ... Ok 1mm is what these measure to. Sorry, I confused the O rings for 01+ ones.
Cool.
Buddha.
Exhaust is ready
(http://s17.postimg.org/tk41147xb/IMG_20140426_112712.jpg)
You're rivalling adidas in dropping $$ on the bike ... he he ... not quite, but if parts from finland and switzerland start showing up @ your door then you know you're in the same league.
V&H exhaust ... hope you like taking it off sanding and painting that turkey ... every year. Those things rust like mad. On the bright side, it drops a few oz every year in weight.
Cool.
Buddha.
I actually proactively went ahead and put some extra layers of exhaust paint and some clear coat on it to delay the rusting.
Quote from: joweaver88 on April 26, 2014, 10:05:58 PM
I actually proactively went ahead and put some extra layers of exhaust paint and some clear coat on it to delay the rusting.
Exhaust paint is cured by heat. Its better to paint it just before you put it on the bike.
And even their factory paint isn't fully cured. Expect it to smoke like hell.
Cool.
Buddha.
Finished the forks. New seals, new dust seals, new seal retainer clips, .85kg/mm sonic springs with spacers cut flush, 20w fork oil set with the recommended air gap of 115mm, and a nice black paint job.
(http://s17.postimg.org/tdhyyhg4v/IMG_20140428_223416.jpg)
Well this is shitty, someone decided they needed the boxes I was painting my parts in so they dumped my parts onto the concrete ruining all my work and took the boxes... unfortunately the metal pegs for my frame sliders where still in the boxes when they took them. So now I have to repaint a shaZam! ton of parts and buy a whole new set of frame sliders. Is it wrong that I hate most of humanity?
What ... you live in some sort of shared box community ... didn't you keep these boxes in your house/office/garage "domain" ?
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on April 29, 2014, 07:20:38 PM
What ... you live in some sort of shared box community ... didn't you keep these boxes in your house/office/garage "domain" ?
Cool.
Buddha.
I live in an apartment complex, we have a shared garage... but they were well within my allocated space.
People just don't use there heads sometimes good luck that sucks pretty bad I would take one thing that looks important away from everyone else's stuff there and see how they like it
Sent from my heart using my fingers
some people have no f%$king respect.
Its been 3 weeks, what's the latest.
Cool.
Buddha.